Rugged West - custom Rugged Rider 3.0 (Buco J-24 inspired) - Initial impressions / review

[Monitor]

Reddit reviews are tragicomical, especially their boot reviews. It's like all those people never saw footwear before. All reviews are the same; The boots are stiff at first and get more comfortable with wear, they run true to size but you can easily buy them in a completely different size and laces lace the boots up so they don't fall off your feet.

Then again, what is there to be said about any pair of (expensive) boots, really?

 

[TartuWolf]

@Quest
I mainly want to respond to the idea of safe/good/simple "starting" brand.
I see different paths one might take, each with it's own pros and cons:
1 . Buy used / find a deal - requires too much knowledge (can be mitigated with a knowledgable friend helping out) and patience/time, but get's you most for your money. Vintage goes into this category as well but has even more extreme requirements.
2 . Gamble buying budget tier high risk high reward stuff like the higher end Chinese products (Crush on Retro, Tailor Brando, Simons, etc..). This is a very decent option for a beginner in my opinion, especially if you are able to return without much hassle. Can pay a bit of extra to a western middleman like Brake House.
3 . Go with the higher end Pakistan 3rd parties like Master Supply. I hate the brand but there is sense in going that route as well. Avi leather is another option there. Or go with the mid level Pakistani stuff like 5*, some stock options are decent.
4 . Mid price tier BEAST that is Vanson is also another no brainer if you like the moto style/aesthetic. This would be my preferred route, especially if you're in the US.
5 . Shell out some cash on higher mid price tier reputable stuff like Aero leathers. Also a great option, but a bigger financial commitment. Likely getting a 9/10 jacket for life without much room from improvement even if you double or triple the money spent. SB is also a consideration.

That's about it I'd say.
A lot goes into category one, from various brands, from various countries. That's where JP auction/listing hunting would go as well.

Where does RW fall? Unfortunately close to the Master Supply and Avi leather, but better in a way that it is (all?) made in UK but at a similar budget. And I guess similar quality to Master Supply (don't know, haven't handled any of their jacket, just hate the brand).
Price is a bit similar to Vanson but nowhere near the quality. Much larger variety of leathers and styles though.
And here I'm think about the non-Olympia RW.
Can't compete with Aero, just not enough reputation and resale value, quality ain't there yet either in my opinion.
A bit closer to SB, but not there yet either.

RW Olypia line?
No idea why would anyone consider it when there are so many other options at that price point.
Mainly to support a growing business. Very legit reason, I honestly wish Leilah the best, she is absolutely awesome.
Maybe also the full customization freedom.

Recommending RW to females is an absolute no-brainer though! And I really wish that's where Leilah would focus as that is where she has no competition (but unfortunatelly almost no demand either..). Go to their website and show me a single jacket on a female - NONE. Such a shame.

 

[Khilij]

Where'd the other Rugged West thread go?

 

[TartuWolf]

Where'd the other Rugged West thread go?

Got closed with no explanation. I don't dare ask.

 

[Quest]

I'll admit I was going to post my query on the arm thing on that thread...saw it was closed...figured I could check in here and compare with Tartu's Version 3 jacket. Good discussion resulted!

 

[AeroFan_07]

So the Rugged West Rugged Rider 2.0 (Size L) arrived yesterday. This was a "tried on new" jacket purchased via ebay, and there are many initial photos of it, in its "For sale" ad. That's right, it is already for sale. Why? Primarily as it does not fit me well at all. Let me start with the fit as that's the first thing we need to "get right" with a jacket, and this being a new to me maker, I realize manufacturing differences do occur. However, looking at the fit chart from their website, a Size Large should fit my 6' 1" / 195 lb person fairly well.

Here are the dimensions I found on this jacket - see the fit photos on this thread: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rugged-west-rugged-rider-2-0-brown-leather-m-long.121258/

Dimensions:
Pit to PIt - 22"
Waist ~ 19.5 - 20"
Shoulders - 19"
Back - 25.25"
Torso - 24.5"
Sleeve - 25.25"
Width - elbow - 6" OD
Width - upper arm ~ 7" OD
Width - cuff - 5" OD
Weight ~ 4.7 lbs

Learn more about this jacket here: https://ruggedwest.co/products/the-...5594&pr_ref_pid=10053496799578&pr_seq=uniform

Some initial thoughts on this Rugged Rider 2.0

- Sleeve fit and elbow room is oddly slim
- Midsection fit is also slim, but manageable
- No waist adjustment without a belt
- Sleeve fit at the end of the sleeve (cuff ends) is actually rather wide and does not tighten down with the zipper. (see photos of this below)
- Brown "smudges" of paint ? on the four brass lapel snaps - appears to be for some sort of topcoat or finishing of the jacket?
- Color is more of a dark brown than cordovan
- Jacket is lined with black cotton throughout, including sleeves
- Chemical or leather tanning (top coating?) smell is noticeable putting this jacket on
- Brass YKK double zipper is actually challenging to use - left hand dominant zipper
- Is a 2-way zipper really a benefit on a cross-zip, which rarely is zipped fully shut?
- Their website claims the brown steerhide is 1.8 - 2 mm or 4-oz thick. I cannot see this on this 4.7 lb jacket
- The leather on this requires no real break-in, it's soft of hand right out of the box

So what does this jacket really look like? Well here's some full-sun photos:


Use the photos on the sale ad to compare (indoor verses outdoor) - it looks deeper of brown in the slightly glaring, snowy & sunny bright light outside. Overall, a fairly clean and neat D-pocket crosszip, and I find this part quite attractive. I did not notice any glaring stitching flaws on this jacket. As the ad photos show, there is noticeable wear on the main zipper that seems odd & out of place.

Fitting photos with sleeve photos as well:




And the sleeve details illistrated:

There you have it - and maybe you can have this jacket! It really is sharp to look at, just insure the fit will work first.

Please reach out if you have any questions on this jacket.

 

[Monitor]

That's... Too much money for this.

 

[Bluechel]

So the Rugged West Rugged Rider 2.0 (Size L) arrived yesterday. This was a "tried on new" jacket purchased via ebay, and there are many initial photos of it, in its "For sale" ad. That's right, it is already for sale. Why? Primarily as it does not fit me well at all. Let me start with the fit as that's the first thing we need to "get right" with a jacket, and this being a new to me maker, I realize manufacturing differences do occur. However, looking at the fit chart from their website, a Size Large should fit my 6' 1" / 195 lb person fairly well.

View attachment 755095

Here are the dimensions I found on this jacket - see the fit photos on this thread: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rugged-west-rugged-rider-2-0-brown-leather-m-long.121258/

Dimensions:
Pit to PIt - 22"
Waist ~ 19.5 - 20"
Shoulders - 19"
Back - 25.25"
Torso - 24.5"
Sleeve - 25.25"
Width - elbow - 6" OD
Width - upper arm ~ 7" OD
Width - cuff - 5" OD
Weight ~ 4.7 lbs

Learn more about this jacket here: https://ruggedwest.co/products/the-...5594&pr_ref_pid=10053496799578&pr_seq=uniform

Some initial thoughts on this Rugged Rider 2.0

- Sleeve fit and elbow room is oddly slim
- Midsection fit is also slim, but manageable
- No waist adjustment without a belt
- Sleeve fit at the end of the sleeve (cuff ends) is actually rather wide and does not tighten down with the zipper. (see photos of this below)
- Brown "smudges" of paint ? on the four brass lapel snaps - appears to be for some sort of topcoat or finishing of the jacket?
- Color is more of a dark brown than cordovan
- Jacket is lined with black cotton throughout, including sleeves
- Chemical or leather tanning (top coating?) smell is noticeable putting this jacket on
- Brass YKK double zipper is actually challenging to use - left hand dominant zipper
- Is a 2-way zipper really a benefit on a cross-zip, which rarely is zipped fully shut?
- Their website claims the brown steerhide is 1.8 - 2 mm or 4-oz thick. I cannot see this on this 4.7 lb jacket
- The leather on this requires no real break-in, it's soft of hand right out of the box

So what does this jacket really look like? Well here's some full-sun photos:
View attachment 755100 View attachment 755101 View attachment 755102 View attachment 755103

Use the photos on the sale ad to compare (indoor verses outdoor) - it looks deeper of brown in the slightly glaring, snowy & sunny bright light outside. Overall, a fairly clean and neat D-pocket crosszip, and I find this part quite attractive. I did not notice any glaring stitching flaws on this jacket. As the ad photos show, there is noticeable wear on the main zipper that seems odd & out of place.

Fitting photos with sleeve photos as well:


View attachment 755109 View attachment 755110 View attachment 755111

And the sleeve details illistrated:

View attachment 755112 View attachment 755113

There you have it - and maybe you can have this jacket! It really is sharp to look at, just insure the fit will work first.

Please reach out if you have any questions on this jacket.

It looks pretty uncomfortable on you, sized too small as noted, thanks for an informative post! I like the looks, but the overall weight is also not in line with the claimed leather thickness.

 

[jchance]

So the Rugged West Rugged Rider 2.0 (Size L) arrived yesterday. This was a "tried on new" jacket purchased via ebay, and there are many initial photos of it, in its "For sale" ad. That's right, it is already for sale. Why? Primarily as it does not fit me well at all. Let me start with the fit as that's the first thing we need to "get right" with a jacket, and this being a new to me maker, I realize manufacturing differences do occur. However, looking at the fit chart from their website, a Size Large should fit my 6' 1" / 195 lb person fairly well.

View attachment 755095

Here are the dimensions I found on this jacket - see the fit photos on this thread: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rugged-west-rugged-rider-2-0-brown-leather-m-long.121258/

Dimensions:
Pit to PIt - 22"
Waist ~ 19.5 - 20"
Shoulders - 19"
Back - 25.25"
Torso - 24.5"
Sleeve - 25.25"
Width - elbow - 6" OD
Width - upper arm ~ 7" OD
Width - cuff - 5" OD
Weight ~ 4.7 lbs

Learn more about this jacket here: https://ruggedwest.co/products/the-...5594&pr_ref_pid=10053496799578&pr_seq=uniform

Some initial thoughts on this Rugged Rider 2.0

- Sleeve fit and elbow room is oddly slim
- Midsection fit is also slim, but manageable
- No waist adjustment without a belt
- Sleeve fit at the end of the sleeve (cuff ends) is actually rather wide and does not tighten down with the zipper. (see photos of this below)
- Brown "smudges" of paint ? on the four brass lapel snaps - appears to be for some sort of topcoat or finishing of the jacket?
- Color is more of a dark brown than cordovan
- Jacket is lined with black cotton throughout, including sleeves
- Chemical or leather tanning (top coating?) smell is noticeable putting this jacket on
- Brass YKK double zipper is actually challenging to use - left hand dominant zipper
- Is a 2-way zipper really a benefit on a cross-zip, which rarely is zipped fully shut?
- Their website claims the brown steerhide is 1.8 - 2 mm or 4-oz thick. I cannot see this on this 4.7 lb jacket
- The leather on this requires no real break-in, it's soft of hand right out of the box

So what does this jacket really look like? Well here's some full-sun photos:
View attachment 755100 View attachment 755101 View attachment 755102 View attachment 755103

Use the photos on the sale ad to compare (indoor verses outdoor) - it looks deeper of brown in the slightly glaring, snowy & sunny bright light outside. Overall, a fairly clean and neat D-pocket crosszip, and I find this part quite attractive. I did not notice any glaring stitching flaws on this jacket. As the ad photos show, there is noticeable wear on the main zipper that seems odd & out of place.

Fitting photos with sleeve photos as well:


View attachment 755109 View attachment 755110 View attachment 755111

And the sleeve details illistrated:

View attachment 755112 View attachment 755113

There you have it - and maybe you can have this jacket! It really is sharp to look at, just insure the fit will work first.

Please reach out if you have any questions on this jacket.

Thanks for the detailed review. Jacket has a nice color, but I’m more interested in that gorgeous hat. Which maker did that?

 

[TartuWolf]

Thanks for the thorough post @AeroFan_07 !
I'll try to answer thoroughly as well

As far as measurements go 1" narrower in the pits and 1.25" longer in the back compared to the measurements is no acceptable as far as the typical 0.5" margin for error typically goes. Assuming this was a stock jacket.

4.7 lbs for a size large seems pretty meh as far as weight goes (especially for this style). My XS one is 4.4 lbs.

As you mentioned cordovan I'm assuming you're talking about the cordovan steerhide, which is ~1.3mm, not ~1.8mm. The "two-tone brown steerhide" is claimed at ~1.8. So ~1.2-1.3mm would correspond more to the weight.

"Is a 2-way zipper really a benefit on a cross-zip, which rarely is zipped fully shut?" for me a two-way has nothing to do with how high you usually zip a jacket up. It's about the bottom part not raising the whole jacket when you sit down. So it's more related with the jacket length or where the bottom hem hits the body than jacket style. For you personally it's rather pointless as the jacket already sits at or a bit above the belt. A short jacket (in relation to the wearer) does not need a 2-way zipper.

As far as fit goes.. Yeah, no good. Sleeves too short, mid body too tight, sleeves too tight, wrist too wide. Pretty good in the shoulders and chest though.

What do you mean by the main zipper wear? I don't see it from the photos.

Cheers mate!

That's... Too much money for this.

Why do you say that?
I think it's priced rather reasonable, especially since these are now made in UK (according to Leilah).

Value / Price:​

I’d say this jacket sits at the upper end of the “budget” tier for getting a NEW D-pocket.
I probably missed some, but here are some notable D-pocket alternatives (new) off the top of my head – to give you an idea where this jacket sits in terms of price/value:

• Tailor Brando (China): $200–400 (depending on model)
• Five Star (Pakistan): $200–500 (depending on model)
• Avi Leather (Pakistan?): $500–550
• Rugged West: ~$700 (current stock budget line)
• Vanson Commando / Custom: $900–1000
• Simmons Bilt: ~$1000
• I’m sure JL could cook something up for $1000–1500
• Aero Leather: ~$1400–1800
• Field Leathers: ~$1700–2000
• ELMC: ~$1700–1800
• JP brands / Himmel / Lost Worlds: usually over $2000

 

[Khilij]

So the Rugged West Rugged Rider 2.0 (Size L) arrived yesterday. This was a "tried on new" jacket purchased via ebay, and there are many initial photos of it, in its "For sale" ad. That's right, it is already for sale. Why? Primarily as it does not fit me well at all. Let me start with the fit as that's the first thing we need to "get right" with a jacket, and this being a new to me maker, I realize manufacturing differences do occur. However, looking at the fit chart from their website, a Size Large should fit my 6' 1" / 195 lb person fairly well.

View attachment 755095

Here are the dimensions I found on this jacket - see the fit photos on this thread: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rugged-west-rugged-rider-2-0-brown-leather-m-long.121258/

Dimensions:
Pit to PIt - 22"
Waist ~ 19.5 - 20"
Shoulders - 19"
Back - 25.25"
Torso - 24.5"
Sleeve - 25.25"
Width - elbow - 6" OD
Width - upper arm ~ 7" OD
Width - cuff - 5" OD
Weight ~ 4.7 lbs

Learn more about this jacket here: https://ruggedwest.co/products/the-...5594&pr_ref_pid=10053496799578&pr_seq=uniform

Some initial thoughts on this Rugged Rider 2.0

- Sleeve fit and elbow room is oddly slim
- Midsection fit is also slim, but manageable
- No waist adjustment without a belt
- Sleeve fit at the end of the sleeve (cuff ends) is actually rather wide and does not tighten down with the zipper. (see photos of this below)
- Brown "smudges" of paint ? on the four brass lapel snaps - appears to be for some sort of topcoat or finishing of the jacket?
- Color is more of a dark brown than cordovan
- Jacket is lined with black cotton throughout, including sleeves
- Chemical or leather tanning (top coating?) smell is noticeable putting this jacket on
- Brass YKK double zipper is actually challenging to use - left hand dominant zipper
- Is a 2-way zipper really a benefit on a cross-zip, which rarely is zipped fully shut?
- Their website claims the brown steerhide is 1.8 - 2 mm or 4-oz thick. I cannot see this on this 4.7 lb jacket
- The leather on this requires no real break-in, it's soft of hand right out of the box

So what does this jacket really look like? Well here's some full-sun photos:
View attachment 755100 View attachment 755101 View attachment 755102 View attachment 755103

Use the photos on the sale ad to compare (indoor verses outdoor) - it looks deeper of brown in the slightly glaring, snowy & sunny bright light outside. Overall, a fairly clean and neat D-pocket crosszip, and I find this part quite attractive. I did not notice any glaring stitching flaws on this jacket. As the ad photos show, there is noticeable wear on the main zipper that seems odd & out of place.

Fitting photos with sleeve photos as well:


View attachment 755109 View attachment 755110 View attachment 755111

And the sleeve details illistrated:

View attachment 755112 View attachment 755113

There you have it - and maybe you can have this jacket! It really is sharp to look at, just insure the fit will work first.

Please reach out if you have any questions on this jacket.

I'm not entirely sure that's a stock Rugged Rider Special Edition. I have a stock version in size medium, and that comes with a camel cotton lining. The different lining may hint towards the nonstandard measurements as well. Just spitballing here.

 

[AeroFan_07]

To clarify a bit - this is the "Rugged Rider 2.0" and I thought I linked it correct up above, if not, trying again:

https://ruggedwest.co/products/the-...5594&pr_ref_pid=10053496799578&pr_seq=uniform

As to other questions, etc:

That's... Too much money for this.

Are you referring to my sale ad for this jacket? That's only counting in a $50+ USD loss on it from the price I bought it from the first seller's price to me, as I look to move it along. That seller has not communicated with me at all and only "Cancelled" my Return request. Thanks.

 

[Monitor]

Are you referring to my sale ad for this jacket?

No, I'm talking about the price of a new jacket.

 

[Monitor]

Why do you say that?
I think it's priced rather reasonable, especially since these are now made in UK (according to Leilah).

They're still struggling with the design, pattern, etc. - Some of the problems Aerofan mentioned are typical of early, yet unrefined versions. But if they're made in the UK then that's another story, standard and all and people have to be paid but the way I see it, additional three hundred Euros puts you in the Aero territory and that's not that far off.

 

[AeroFan_07]

No, I'm talking about the price of a new jacket.

Thak you sir, That's what I was thinking.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Thanks for the detailed review. Jacket has a nice color, but I’m more interested in that gorgeous hat. Which maker did that?

but I’m more interested in that gorgeous hat. Which maker did that?

This hat is an African Bush hat. It was a gift from a dear friend back in 2004. He was from, and to my awareness still lives in South Africa. The darkening and patina on it is legitimate, he worked in the fields on farms in the sun and the heat, and I wore it on wilderness trips in the sun, rain & wind.

A quick search didn't pull up very much on these, not 100% sure where it's from, as there is not a maker tag beyond "African Bush Hat"

 

[ABCD]

To clarify a bit - this is the "Rugged Rider 2.0" and I thought I linked it correct up above, if not, trying again:

https://ruggedwest.co/products/the-...5594&pr_ref_pid=10053496799578&pr_seq=uniform

When I see these jackets I don't see 'rugged', I see polished. A polished, fake, costume like interpretation of the real deal. I see a jacket that has been designed to look good on Instagram.

This simple 80s Schott perfecto looks 100x more 'rugged' (I hate that word) than the Rugged Rider.

 

[AeroFan_07]

When I see these jackets I don't see 'rugged', I see polished. A polished, fake, costume like interpretation of the real deal. I see a jacket that has been designed to look good on Instagram.

This simple 80s Schott perfecto looks 100x more 'rugged' (I hate that word) than the Rugged Rider.


View attachment 755184

100% agree.

It's the whole reason I wanted to try one out.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Thanks for the thorough post @AeroFan_07 !
I'll try to answer thoroughly as well

As far as measurements go 1" narrower in the pits and 1.25" longer in the back compared to the measurements is no acceptable as far as the typical 0.5" margin for error typically goes. Assuming this was a stock jacket.

4.7 lbs for a size large seems pretty meh as far as weight goes (especially for this style). My XS one is 4.4 lbs.

As you mentioned cordovan I'm assuming you're talking about the cordovan steerhide, which is ~1.3mm, not ~1.8mm. The "two-tone brown steerhide" is claimed at ~1.8. So ~1.2-1.3mm would correspond more to the weight.

"Is a 2-way zipper really a benefit on a cross-zip, which rarely is zipped fully shut?" for me a two-way has nothing to do with how high you usually zip a jacket up. It's about the bottom part not raising the whole jacket when you sit down. So it's more related with the jacket length or where the bottom hem hits the body than jacket style. For you personally it's rather pointless as the jacket already sits at or a bit above the belt. A short jacket (in relation to the wearer) does not need a 2-way zipper.

As far as fit goes.. Yeah, no good. Sleeves too short, mid body too tight, sleeves too tight, wrist too wide. Pretty good in the shoulders and chest though.

What do you mean by the main zipper wear? I don't see it from the photos.

Cheers mate!


Why do you say that?
I think it's priced rather reasonable, especially since these are now made in UK (according to Leilah).

What do you mean by the main zipper wear? I don't see it from the photos.

Mosty on the top zipper slider body -- again, not a huge deal at all but just a bit odd.

 

[MrProper]

What do you mean by the main zipper wear? I don't see it from the photos.

View attachment 755186

Mosty on the top zipper slider body -- again, not a huge deal at all but just a bit odd.

Well, that's the "rugged" part of the jacket
I don't think you should overestimate terms like "rugged". Ultimately, it's just marketing. I got my RW jackets relatively cheaply, made to my measurements, and I like to wear them from time to time. But if I had to choose between the Aeros and the RW, I would definitely keep the Aeros.

Edit:BTW, I think I'm responsible for the two-way zip on this jacket, because I wanted it and then it was used on other jackets from then on.