Veg Tanned, Unfinished HH: The Rugged West "Ranger"

[Feliksas]

A controversial post, or maybe not - for your consideration, the Rugged West "Ranger," that I began to order in December of 2024, after I decided to sell my tea-core, Aero, Type 3 Roughout; received just about 1.5-2 weeks ago.

Nice packaging:





AA Crack & Son, Mustang HH leather, unfinished. Ponied-up and bought Leilah a button press from Citron Jeans, Japan, for like 100-200 euro, I forget now, along with a set or two of pure brass buttons. Since I knew that I was going to soak the jacket, I opted, and risked, to have it sewn oversized.

I asked Leilah to copy the Filson Short Lined Cruiser, for my end-of-days jacket. Of course, initially, there was the corpse-like pallor of unfinished HH:

 

[Feliksas]

Nice touch:

Oversized fit-pic, pre-soaking:

Soaking, here we go! I used not hot or cold, but warm water, for 15-30 minutes; I expected 5-10% shrinkage, but definitely hit under 5%

Wore it all day in the sun - nice creases forming

First treatment with neatsfoot oil and wax. TL;DR - you can safely do 2 treatments of neatsfoot oil to go from corpse-pallor to honey. However, give a week between treatments, and treat before going out in the sun. Check those creases, though

Looking pretty good already

I wanted the jacket longer for bush-craft reasons (knife-sheath length, so my knife doesn't hang higher than the jacket)

 

[Feliksas]

So the buttons. Kenji, from Citron Jeans, wasn't sure that the press or buttons would work with 3+mm of leather, and he was right. It is what it is. The prongs need to curl and piece the base-brass to hook back onto the leather. The bottom button of the jacket failed to do so, and all the buttons are a tad jiggly.

You can see the seating problem here:

Still, breakin in getting there

A week in, I opted for one more treatment of neatsfoot oil, but without wax, this time. Lovely results - holding off for 6 months now.

Lots of sun today - jacket is looking great, but maybe hard to see it in so much sunlight. Wearing William Lennon boots, fwiw

Back especially, developing a nice colour

 

[Feliksas]

We'll see what the button situation is like as time passes, but I've ordered a plethora of WWI-WWII, Brass, Canadian General Service buttons - for a bomb-proof jacket, actually, the old ring-fastening method makes more sense, and will add character to the jacket:

Now for the controversial bit - I'm biased, perhaps, because my mother ran her own business when I was a boy, and I remember how it was for her.

I knew what I was getting into with Leilah; Leilah, Rugged West aren't Aero, and she isn't Amazon. Furthermore, a jacket gets better with time. I want someone who will take on projects that Aero won't, and I want more companies to get into the market here in Europe that aren't Aero, for all our greater good. If I wanted off-rack-perfect, I would have gone with Aero, but I chose to go with Leilah and RW for the aforementioned reasons.

Let's keep it to jackets, I guess, but at the same time--if we want more, locally made options, how can we help Leilah succeed? I think that's the right question.

-F

P.S.

I'm 183cm, 81kg, 85cm around the navel, and about 103 around the chest. My jacket measurements, oversized, were:

Shoulders (front): 20”
Shoulders (back): 20”
Chest (pit to pit): 23.5”
Waist (across): 21”
Sleeve Length: 26.5”
Back Length: 25.85”
Front Length: 26”

 

[newtojackets]

Wow, the washing and treatment has made that jacket break in quickly

 

[Feliksas]

Wow, the washing and treatment has made that jacket break in quickly

Everyone is afraid to douse their 1000 GBP jacket, but it's classic leather-working. Now, i'll wait another 6 months-a year, before treating it again, but you want to like your jacket sooner than later Also, my jacket won't lack in abuses, so I don't even feel like it's cheating.

Remember: you can soak your *chrome* tanned leather with very little shrinking to speed up the process, without fear--it's only *veg-tanned* jackets that might shrink significantly.

Also - for all the unfinished/natural HH jacket wearers out there, two treatments of neatsfoot are the cat's meow, spaced about a week apart, and never after, only before, going out in the hot sun for a few hours.

Spectemur agendo,

-F

 

[Bennarion]

An interesting review of the jacket. Thanks

Still, breakin in getting there

What kind of shoes are you wearing here?
I need very sturdy shoes.

 

[Pandemic]

Great write-up!

I’m tempted to take a (dyed) leather jacket out for a sunbath and then hit it with some Neatsfoot as an experiment to see how it ages and darkens it

 

[Feliksas]

An interesting review of the jacket. Thanks


What kind of shoes are you wearing here?
I need very sturdy shoes.

Meindl Super Perfekts - honestly, if I had to pick one shoe for the end of days, it would be this one.

 

[Feliksas]

Great write-up!

I’m tempted to take a (dyed) leather jacket out for a sunbath and then hit it with some Neatsfoot as an experiment to see how it ages and darkens it

Neatsfoot first, then sunbath! If it's too warm, the leather will be more porous, and take too much neatsfoot.

 

[twistdh]

Meindl Super Perfekts

Very nice boots…I’ve seen some meindl in the past, but nothing interesting (quality speaking)…this seems pretty good and similar to what my trusted boot maker can make. Sturdy enough.

I’ve loved your aero in natural cxl! This new jacket is really beautiful expecially after your treatment! I still prefer your aero, but remains a beast!

Curious, as always, to see how it ages

 

[One Drop]

Meindl Super Perfekts - honestly, if I had to pick one shoe for the end of days, it would be this one.

Nice jacket, you've done a great job aging it!

I wore Meindl hiking boots for years and loved them, they are very similar to the great Hanwag and Lowa brands, and similar to those and a few other Bavarian and Austrian boot-makers in that they make more modern lightweight boots, hybrid traditional leather and glued sole and rand versions, and of course a few traditional double or triple stitched one-piece leather ones like yours. Meindl actually makes the Limmer ready-to-wear boots for them as well.

I've only worn one such boot before when I was much younger, nowadays I prefer a slightly higher boot that's a bit lighter, and Russell Moccasins for less demanding conditions and everyday wear.

But if I could wear a shorter boot It'd be a toss-up between the Super Perfekt and the Hanwag Sepp 100, another one to consider of you dig these classic bomb proof and very comfortable (when broken in) designs.

https://www.hanwag.com/eu/en-gb/men/outdoor-lifestyle/doublestitched/sepp-1002/

BTW, Meindl also makes the Perfekt, a slightly lighter double stitched boot that offers similar ruggedness but isn't compatible with crampons.

 

[Feliksas]

BTW, Meindl also makes the Perfekt, a slightly lighter double stitched boot that offers similar ruggedness but isn't compatible with crampons.

Years ago, I was planning on buying the Perfekts, because I don't need the Super Perfekts--but when it came to buy, I couldn't resist the power of "Super" adverb, and upsold myself

I do some pretty heavy-duty outdoor stuff, and I've narrowed it down to 3 boots for all my needs:

Dry three seasons: William Lennon Mark V Canadian Combat Boot (which I helped to design )
Wet 2.5 seasons: Meindl Super Perket
Wet/cold/freezing: Lundhags Skare Expedition

I average around 5000-5500 km per year of walking, and these are the only boots that haven't worn out on me after just a year; I've also done 100-150km over 3-5 days with each on a few occasions, carrying 25kg of gear, and they were golden, operational level I would say.

Just for kicks, here's my favourite rucksack, the Savotta Jaakari XL

Between the above boots and this rucksack, the end of days would be no problem.

Spectemur Agendo,

-F

 

[One Drop]

Years ago, I was planning on buying the Perfekts, because I don't need the Super Perfekts--but when it came to buy, I couldn't resist the power of "Super" adverb, and upsold myself

I do some pretty heavy-duty outdoor stuff, and I've narrowed it down to 3 boots for all my needs:

Dry three seasons: William Lennon Mark V Canadian Combat Boot (which I helped to design )
Wet 2.5 seasons: Meindl Super Perket
Wet/cold/freezing: Lundhags Skare Expedition

I average around 5000-5500 km per year of walking, and these are the only boots that haven't worn out on me after just a year; I've also done 100-150km over 3-5 days with each on a few occasions, carrying 25kg of gear, and they were golden, operational level I would say.

Just for kicks, here's my favourite rucksack, the Savotta Jaakari XL

View attachment 785709

View attachment 785708

Between the above boots and this rucksack, the end of days would be no problem.

Spectemur Agendo,

-F

Very cool, the William Lennon looks absolutely indestructible. I know the Lundhags well as I've lived in Sweden, and know a lot of Swedes here that use them, but I don't need that kind of wet weather protection, and I'm not crazy about wearing doubled socks.

I probably average a bit more than 3500K / year, but I don't need the sole rigidity of the Meindl Perfekt and similar boots, as I'm only 75kg and never have more than a very light pack - that said, I'm kind of interested in the Hanwag Bergell Top as I has a slightly less rigid and heavy sole than most one piece leather double and triple stitched boots.

https://www.hanwag.com/eu/en-gb/men...estitched/bergell-top/?v=H1102::4047761015498

I'm curious about the leather on the Perfekt, being what they call Russian leather, probably the Swiss made birch tanned cowhide that I think Hanwag also uses on the Sepp 100 (that they call Juchten leather), it being very water resistant due to the extra birch tanning step.

I had a look at those Lundhags, what an incredible boot! I get by with the Hanwag Alaska Winter, basically an insulated cemented leather highish boot, if I needed a warmer higher boot I'd definitely consider a pair of those beauties.

I tend to rotate about 6 pairs depending on conditions, and most get 2 resoles. I very rarely have to buy a new pair these days, now I've stopped using the lighter weight modern hiking boots that just don't stand up to constant use, they end up needing replacing too often. I'd rather wear a robust hiking shoe than those.

To change the subject, and further hijack this thread, what are those wool panrs you've got? They look a bit like the Weatherwool Jacquard ones? I found a killer deal on some lightly used Filsons last year and have been wearing the heck out of them as we had a nice long, cold winter here. I did also found a very cool Swedish company that makes outdoor clothing from the incredible army surplus Wadmal wool that they bought all the remaining stock of - I had a pair of the Swedish Army officer pants (straight leg and no cargo pockets, unlike the more common infantry ones) that I wore Telemarking, tobogganing, and snow shovelling for a dozen years or so, they looked the same after all that wear as when I bought them at an antique shop in Northern Sweden, just an incredible fabric, much denser than Mackinaw wool, if a bit stiffer. I don't know what happened to them, I might pick up a pair of the unlined Basic model next year :

https://micklagaard.com/collections/trousers

 

[Feliksas]

A man after my own heart!

My first-love trousers were the Swedish wool ones, with cargo pockets, and leather straps on the bottom, back when Varusteleka still carried a lot of surplus, but I can't find them these days, and then I did Canadian/British battledress trousers day-to-day

The trousers pictured are Canadian, Big Bill 80%/20% wool-poly blend, and are fantastic in that they're well priced and always available; today, I'd consider getting the olive-drab version in Merino wool.

Didn't know about Micklagaard, but wow--definitely a runner up for me! I especially appreciate the high-waist, as trousers should be.

As for the boots--aye, birch tanned leather. I've experimented with making my own birch-pitch balm, and it worked well, incredibly water-proof, but you always smell like woodsmoke (could be a good thing?).

As for the Lundhags expedition boots--since they have wool, removable, liners, I just wear one set of Silverlight socks, and they're the bee's knees: very expensive, but lifetime warranty, and really don't stink, act slightly as a compression sock, and as such, reduce foot swelling significantly, on long distances.

What pack are you using? I've owned most of the Savotta packs, but if I were going to build something load-bearing but smaller, I'd use the LK35 frame, and attach the Savotta Kahakka 25l to it, along with a proper waist-belt.

A pleasure to make your acquaintance

-F

 

[One Drop]

A man after my own heart!

My first-love trousers were the Swedish wool ones, with cargo pockets, and leather straps on the bottom, back when Varusteleka still carried a lot of surplus, but I can't find them these days, and then I did Canadian/British battledress trousers day-to-day

The trousers pictured are Canadian, Big Bill 80%/20% wool-poly blend, and are fantastic in that they're well priced and always available; today, I'd consider getting the olive-drab version in Merino wool.

Didn't know about Micklagaard, but wow--definitely a runner up for me! I especially appreciate the high-waist, as trousers should be.

As for the boots--aye, birch tanned leather. I've experimented with making my own birch-pitch balm, and it worked well, incredibly water-proof, but you always smell like woodsmoke (could be a good thing?).

As for the Lundhags expedition boots--since they have wool, removable, liners, I just wear one set of Silverlight socks, and they're the bee's knees: very expensive, but lifetime warranty, and really don't stink, act slightly as a compression sock, and as such, reduce foot swelling significantly, on long distances.

What pack are you using? I've owned most of the Savotta packs, but if I were going to build something load-bearing but smaller, I'd use the LK35 frame, and attach the Savotta Kahakka 25l to it, along with a proper waist-belt.

A pleasure to make your acquaintance

-F

The Swedish infantry trousers you mention are still easily found on eBay, many with the original leather strap still in good shape. I preferred the Officer model so I could wear them outside my telemark boots, with or without gaiters depending on snow conditions. They also look more like traditional pants which I like. It's the rarer Officer ones that have become super rare.

Thanks for the Big Bill mention, I had looked at them while hunting for a reasonably priced pair of Filsons and was ready to try a pair out. I'm Canadian and would be delighted to support a Canadian company. The other ones that interested me were vintage L.L. Bean and Woolrich hunting pants, both are still pretty easily found used and look like great options for winter wool pants.

Thanks for the Lundhags info, if I ever need such a well insulated boot I'd definitely consider them, or the mid height pair. The price is right here in Switzerland, especially for a resole-able boot with a removable inner boot!

I have a few of packs I use regularly, from light or ultralight day ones to ski touring ones that hold a shovel, probe, and a few items of clothing, to a larger Osprey frame pack that rarely use anymore, as I tend not to do much overnight or extended trekking or ski touring anymore, and over 3 seasons tend do short or day hikes with the absolute minimum gear and no pack at all. Although conditions can get extreme here, and are very changeable, most of the hiking I do is very accessible, and is an easy helicopter ride to safety if the worst should happen (annual aerial rescue insurance only costs about USD $40 and covers the whole of Switzerland, and repatriation form other countries in case of an accident). Mobile coverage is near complete here even in the high mountains, so in the worst case scenario you're only a few hours from safety. I've never needed it, and hope to never need it in the future, but it makes a huge difference in the amount of gear needed to stay safe.

The pleasure is mine, always interesting to meet other people who spend so much time outdoors and in the wilderness, and so informative to hear from people who have real experience with different technical solutions for different conditions. The one thing I think about often when hiking with my GSD is how perfectly she is adapted to everything and thrives in from below freezing to reasonably hot weather, wet, dry, or snowy, without needing a shred of clothing, while we need all kinds of gear just to survive a day outside.

 

[Feliksas]

Well I'll be, I'm from Canada, too!

I don't suppose you're another military ex-pat living in Europe? If so, who were you with? I was Black Watch, attached to 2R22R for roto 7 in 2009--good times.

Also, any hunting on your end, or just trekking? I just got my license here, and inspired by our Ranger brothers up north, am picking up a Tikka T3x Artic at the end of the month.

First pint on my if you're ever passing through the baltics--I go through Zurich from time to time for some studies I'm slowly working on.

Cheers,

F

 

[One Drop]

Well I'll be, I'm from Canada, too!

I don't suppose you're another military ex-pat living in Europe? If so, who were you with? I was Black Watch, attached to 2R22R for roto 7 in 2009--good times.

Also, any hunting on your end, or just trekking? I just got my license here, and inspired by our Ranger brothers up north, am picking up a Tikka T3x Artic at the end of the month.

First pint on my if you're ever passing through the baltics--I go through Zurich from time to time for some studies I'm slowly working on.

Cheers,

F

Nice coincidence, I'm always delighted to meet fellow Canadians online!

I don't hunt or fish, and have no military experience whatsoever. I just love to walk, hike, trek, ski, and swim, and would love to do more canoe and kayak trips in the future, not having done so in decades, and I'm planning to combine a vacation with a bushcraft course sometime in the coming year. Maybe I should look to the Baltics to combine the two - do you know of any good courses or operations of this type in Lithuania, or neighbouring countries?

I tend to shorter treks, hikes, and ski tours these days, especially since adopting a German Shepherd Dog, though she's great on short camping trips if it's not too hot or we do the majority of the hiking during the cooler hours or near rivers and streams.

I'll definitely take you up on that your offer if I get to Lithuania in the future, I've always wanted to spend some time n the Baltics, and you are equally welcome if you make it to or pass through Valais, in which case the pint is on me!

I had to look up the Tikka, I have very little interest in *****s and have only shot them a few times for fun, but that certainly is a beautiful example of one. I hadn't previously heard of Tikka or Sako, but if it's good enough for the Rangers...

 

[Hobbes1]

Everyone is afraid to douse their 1000 GBP jacket, but it's classic leather-working. Now, i'll wait another 6 months-a year, before treating it again, but you want to like your jacket sooner than later Also, my jacket won't lack in abuses, so I don't even feel like it's cheating.

Remember: you can soak your *chrome* tanned leather with very little shrinking to speed up the process, without fear--it's only *veg-tanned* jackets that might shrink significantly.

Also - for all the unfinished/natural HH jacket wearers out there, two treatments of neatsfoot are the cat's meow, spaced about a week apart, and never after, only before, going out in the hot sun for a few hours.

Spectemur agendo,

-F

This is good info. I have run a variety of chrome tanned jackets through my washing machine and also lightly dried in the clothes drier. Also hung them over a warm radiator. Never a problem. Reconditioned after cleaning and the jackets have been just fine and a bit more broken-in. Cheers!

 

[Feliksas]

A little under a month and a half later -

The collar stitching is coming undone:



I'll have to resew it myself, since the lockstitch will keep coming apart


Serious fraying on the button-holes. Not sure what the deal is, but the thread I use when I sew leather is heavy, 1mm waxed.



Bottom "jean" style button has fallen off entirely. As I said before, I'll go for sewn buttons, since I can fix them myself, next time.


I'll post pictures of my repairs once I've successfully completed them! I'm not the worst at sewing leather, but also not the best

For your consideration,

-F