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  1. belfastboy

    Help with a Hat Block?

    Decide what style of crease you want to put in. Then decide the finished height of the crown: front, sides and rear. Then you can reverse engineer it. The deeper the crease the more felt you need. 1" for a shallow crease, 1 1/2" or more for a deep tear drop or a Gus.
  2. belfastboy

    Help with a Hat Block?

    5 1/4" is fine if you leave the crown open. 5 1/4" does not leave much felt to work with if you want to put a crease in the crown.
  3. belfastboy

    Help with a Hat Block?

    See Jlee's comments to start. As well, this block is likely a regular oval. Do you know your head shape? You could well be a long oval and a regular oval blocked hat will not feel right on your head. 5 1/4" is a very short block and will produce a very low crowned hat. If you want to...
  4. belfastboy

    Ask a question, get an answer

    Even if the stitch holes show....(which is not likely).....a wee bit of steam will close the hole.
  5. belfastboy

    Ebay Hats: Victories, Defeats, Gripes & Items of Interest

    The thought of boxing up that many hats would be so daunting as to leave the entire exercise to those that I leave behind.
  7. belfastboy

    Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

    I didn't plan that far ahead. I phoned them from Nashville and asked if I could pop my head in and see the factory .....giving them two days notice. We did it as a day trip out of Nashville.
  8. belfastboy

    Ask a question, get an answer

    I do a fair bit of hat restoration work. Unless Akubra has screwed up and misplaced the stitching even a narrow 3/8" ribbon would cover the sweat band stitching. It is as the Lost Cowboy states, it sits just above the brim break.
  9. belfastboy

    Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

    It was this time last year I was in TN, totally forgot about Buckaroo otherwise would have dropped in. I did get a chance to visit Winchester......that was one of the highlights of the entire trip.
  10. belfastboy

    Crown Iron for Sale!

    I am incorrect on this. Mike from Buckaroo Hatters says this is one of his irons. He has sold lots of them.
  11. belfastboy

    New Panama WPI

    Yes, probably the closest is Hornskov in Denmark. He does Panama hats but he is pricey. Or Hufvud out of Sweden. Mailing from North America if it can fit in a 14x14x6" box will run about $60 but then you have your VAT etc etc..
  13. belfastboy

    New Panama WPI

    There is not a huge amount of difference between 150 & 200 to the eye. $150 for a Panama is at the low end. Wear the heck out of the hat and save up for a good one a few years down the road. PHD are OK hats but they are not great. They may have upgraded but they used to come with cheap...
  14. belfastboy

    New Panama WPI

    PHD's fino quality starts at 150 WPI. So for $175 it represents OK value. You need to move up to Fino fino or Super fino to get a more refined weave.
  15. belfastboy

    Vintage Hats from 1920's - 40's Ireland Question

    I import fabric (mostly Scottish tweeds) and have my tailor make it up for me here.
  16. belfastboy

    Vintage Hats from 1920's - 40's Ireland Question

    Sadly, much of the world is devoid of good hat stores. Galway at least has swans!
  17. belfastboy

    Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

    Mike at Buckaroo hatters sells the not automatic ones. There is a used one on IG right now, asking price is $6500US. I think the vintage fully automatic ones are like unicorns. Fixing them when they go on the blink is apparently a bitch.
  19. belfastboy

    Ask a question, get an answer

    The hat in the picture you show has a wider brim than the specs of the Temple. The Squatter(3" brim) specs are closer to the hat in your pictures with one major difference, the Squatter has a brim binding.
  20. belfastboy

    Ladies, Hat Style Feedback Request

    Totally subjective: I would lower the centre dent in the rear so the side look is symmetrical. I love the swoop of a deep centre dent front to back. The fun aspect of good felt is that it is akin to unfired clay. A spritz of water, a bit of steam and reshape it at will. Play with it...
  21. belfastboy

    "Bash." Not a hatter's term?

    I love the term. One aspect of vintage hats is their soft, malleable hand. Watching vintage movies so many of the hats worn have a great casual air where it appears the hat is grabbed and plunked on the head. The crease (or bash) is however it ends up after plunking on the head. So in...
  22. belfastboy

    Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

    If I understand its operation....you need to stand there, hold and direct the iron? It is not automated? What do you see is the advantage to this over hand pouncing/ironing? Is it the time factor alone?
  23. belfastboy

    Christy's of London

    As a custom hat maker, I have a bias. If you purchase a custom hat from an established hat maker with a track record the hat will always be superior to any mass produced, off the shelf hat. The felt will likely be better, the trimmings higher quality (usually vintage ribbon and best quality...

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