Brooklyn Tool & Craft sells flakes made in Germany. I buy from a Canadian company that sells German flakes. Mohawk Refinishers sells a Shellac Thinner (denatured alcohol) that is the purest I have found.
A few months back I made a hat for a fellow with a size 63 long oval head. He was about to retire and his whole life he had wanted a fedora like the one his father wore. But he could never find one to fit him. On the day he came by to pick up the hat.....upon placing the hat on his head...
Can't diagnose your problem. But I do know what works based on my experience. I make the occasional Bowler hat and stiffen the crowns to a very hard shell and my mix is still a dilute one......I just do multiple coats.
I write a monthly column in HaTalk eMagazine. Each month I cover an aspect of hat making. Subscriptions are $5 a month and all articles are archived. It began Sept or Oct of 2023. Also, I have a video out for sale on Hatcourses.com. It is a 4 hour video walking through each step of the...
Often premixed shellac has wax in it which generally is a no no for a hatter. I only buy German made shellac flakes as they are the purest on the market. Then mix with 95% or higher denatured alcohol. It is THE time tested method for stiffening felts. You should be able to make the wool...
I use a very dilute amount as I never am looking to stiffen a felt very much. I use a tablespoon in a cup of denatured alcohol. A fellow hatter I know that makes very stiff crowns uses almost a 50/50 mixture of shellac to alcohol (by volume).
My sources: Millinery Warehouse, Brooklyn NY, PureBeaverHatSupply outside Philly, PA. Both sources provide great product in a wide variety of furs and weights. They sell in ones and twos.
It is weird the shellac did not work. Perhaps your solution was not strong enough. Shellac should, in a strong solution, and will make the hat as hard as you want. Multiple applications might be needed but shellac is not affected by water....hence its use by woodworkers. Did you use a...
I neglected to mention that you need 4 large C clamps in order to apply the pressure needed to press the board on the hat. This replicates at least some of the pressure needed to flatten the brim.
I thought about it but it is a lot of money for something you have no idea what you will receive. I would rather pay full price from PureBeaver and know what FEPSA I am getting.
The felt you are working with is very soft and light weight. Thus hard to get a sharp, flat brim. Firstly you need to shellac it. Secondly you need to make a brim press (a piece of plywood 3/4" thick - 2'x2' with a hole cut for the crown. or buy a flat flange. I wrote a piece on this in...
On my list is a trip to Portugal to visit FEPSA. I think they have the most modern plant and would be a great comparison to the very old school approach of Winchester.
I have experimented with dyes over the years. Best success is with Acid dyes such as Ciba or Jacquard. The hardest part is getting even distribution and I improved my success by finally finding a stainless steel vat large enough to give the felt room to spread out. I have better success...
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