Busted Hat Company

[Darrell2688]

I have blocks in sizes from 56CM to 61CM, I placed order for 62 & 63CM blocks, I should have those blocks plus a new style brim flange, 3" wide brim with more curve in it in a couple of weeks.
Let me know if you are interested in a new fedora in a large size.
I have light weight Silver Belly, Mist, Bone, Sand & Sable fur felts in stock.
I do have 160G weight fur felts in stock, mostly 100% pure rabbit, however if you want a western weight in 100% pure beaver I will locate and buy it to make your hat/fedora.
Light weight 115G & 120G weights.

 

[belfastboy]

I have blocks in sizes from 56CM to 61CM, I placed order for 62 & 63CM blocks, I should have those blocks plus a new style brim flange, 3" wide brim with more curve in it in a couple of weeks.
Let me know if you are interested in a new fedora in a large size.
I have light weight Silver Belly, Mist, Bone, Sand & Sable fur felts in stock.

Other than Brent I have only made about 6 hats in those 2 big sizes....over my 8 years of hatting.

 

[Darrell2688]

Other than Brent I have only made about 6 hats in those 2 big sizes....over my 8 years of hatting.

Thank you, that is good to know. The good thing is, I will have the big block sizes in my selection. I will be getting a new brim flange. 7 1/2" big enough to handle a wide brim 3" with more of a rounded shape to the brim curve.

 

[Darrell2688]

I keep adding blocks, felts, hat liners, ribbon, flanges to my stock.
I made myself a hat block spinner a few months ago and it works great cutting down on felt pouncing time. I can control the rate of the spin, easy to use.

 

[FreeState-Fedora38]

A Comparative Study: How a Busted Hat Company Build Found a Prominent Postion in a Vintage Rotation

Intro:
Many of you likely recognize this build from Darrell Bennett’s recent post here in the Busted Hat Company section. I was fortunate enough to acquire it, and now that it’s in hand, I want to go beyond the sales photos.
To truly study the DNA of Darrell's build, I decided to stack it up against the heavyweights of my collection: a pre-WWII G.B. Borsalino fu Lazzaro in the deep Falco (Brown) and a 1950s Quality Extra Superior Alessandria in the iconic Ghiaccio (Ice) with the Pesca finish.

Technical Deep-Dive:
In this high-contrast macro (Image 1), the technical evolution is on full display. On the left, the Ghiaccio Alessandria highlights the pinnacle of mid-century factory work. On the right, Darrell’s hand-binding is a masterclass in precision. This specific piece represents a new frontier for Darrell; he utilized a machine-assisted technique for the first time to maximize the accuracy of the stitch length and width. The results are exceptionally sharp against the dense beaver felt. Because he is admittedly "picky" about the final output, he went to great lengths to ensure the ribbon is clamped to the brim with zero puckering or rolling. It creates a knife-edge profile that doesn't just mimic the heritage giants—it challenges them.

The Sartorial Interior & Fit:
The internal architecture is where Darrell’s attention to detail continues to shine. He utilized a premium calfskin sweatband, providing a supple, "broken-in" comfort right from the first wear. Technically, the execution of the fit is a masterclass in accommodating the unique shape of an individual wearer's head. While Darrell blocked this as a Round, he cut the sweatband to a precise 22 5/8" length. That extra runway allows a more Oval head to shape the hat naturally without the dreaded temple pinch.

More importantly, the internal whip-stitching is exceptionally fine, ensuring the leather sits perfectly flush against the felt with no step or gap. This allows the hat to elongate perfectly without losing structural integrity, hitting that sweet spot where it feels secure but weightless—like a soft, comfortable blanket. To finish the interior, the sepia-bronze paisley lining serves as the perfect connective tissue, picking up the earthy taupe of the felt and the wine tones of the ribbon.

The "Chameleon" Effect:
Moving to the artistry, the most striking thing about Darrell's choice of FEPSA beaver felt is its chameleon nature. Indoors, under soft-white LED lighting (Image 2), it presents as a moody, organic taupe. However, once the Maryland sun hits (Image 3), the felt undergoes a total transformation into a cool, flinty grey. Even more interesting is how the tonal depth shifts with the sun’s angle (seen in solo Images 4, 5 and 6) moving from warm earthiness to a sophisticated slate.

Felt Texture: Beaver vs. The Pesca "Peach Skin"and Pre-WWII Rex:
The legendary Pesca finish is known for that airy peach-fuzz feel, but Darrell's beaver felt offers a different kind of luxury. It leans closer to the heirloom density of a pre-WWII Rex. It captures that distinctive pre-war substance—a felt that feels substantial and alive in the hand—yet it's finished with a velvety handle that remains incredibly supple. It strikes that rare balance of structural weight and refined finish.

The Art Fawcett Touch: (Images 4 & 5)
The ribbon work features a two-tone Art Fawcett square knot that absolutely glows in natural light. By angling the hats 3/4 to the right, you can see how the light catches the face and the fold of the knot. The contrast between the wine-colored ribbon and the shifting tones of the felt makes this feel like two hats in one.

The Verdict:
Placing a modern custom in a staircase lineup challenge with a pre-war fu Lazzaro and a Pesca-finish Alessandria is a tall order. Darrell didn't just meet the bar; he moved it. The weight, the rich hand of the felt, and the obsessive attention to the binding and interior architecture prove that we are looking at the work of a craftsman at the top of his game. This build isn't just a hat; it's a genuine luxury collectible.

-CJ

A note for @Darrell2688
I'm particularly interested in your thoughts on the perfected vision we discussed and how you approached the integration of the Art Fawcett ribbon work. It's a bridge between history and modern artisan skill that really sets this hat apart.

 

[belfastboy]

A Comparative Study: How a Busted Hat Company Build Found a Prominent Postion in a Vintage Rotation

Intro:
Many of you likely recognize this build from Darrell Bennett’s recent post here in the Busted Hat Company section. I was fortunate enough to acquire it, and now that it’s in hand, I want to go beyond the sales photos.
To truly study the DNA of Darrell's build, I decided to stack it up against the heavyweights of my collection: a pre-WWII G.B. Borsalino fu Lazzaro in the deep Falco (Brown) and a 1950s Quality Extra Superior Alessandria in the iconic Ghiaccio (Ice) with the Pesca finish.

Technical Deep-Dive:
In this high-contrast macro (Image 1), the technical evolution is on full display. On the left, the Ghiaccio Alessandria highlights the pinnacle of mid-century factory work. On the right, Darrell’s hand-binding is a masterclass in precision. This specific piece represents a new frontier for Darrell; he utilized a machine-assisted technique for the first time to maximize the accuracy of the stitch length and width. The results are exceptionally sharp against the dense beaver felt. Because he is admittedly "picky" about the final output, he went to great lengths to ensure the ribbon is clamped to the brim with zero puckering or rolling. It creates a knife-edge profile that doesn't just mimic the heritage giants—it challenges them.

The Sartorial Interior & Fit:
The internal architecture is where Darrell’s attention to detail continues to shine. He utilized a premium calfskin sweatband, providing a supple, "broken-in" comfort right from the first wear. Technically, the execution of the fit is a masterclass in accommodating the unique shape of an individual wearer's head. While Darrell blocked this as a Round, he cut the sweatband to a precise 22 5/8" length. That extra runway allows a more Oval head to shape the hat naturally without the dreaded temple pinch.

More importantly, the internal whip-stitching is exceptionally fine, ensuring the leather sits perfectly flush against the felt with no step or gap. This allows the hat to elongate perfectly without losing structural integrity, hitting that sweet spot where it feels secure but weightless—like a soft, comfortable blanket. To finish the interior, the sepia-bronze paisley lining serves as the perfect connective tissue, picking up the earthy taupe of the felt and the wine tones of the ribbon.

The "Chameleon" Effect:
Moving to the artistry, the most striking thing about Darrell's choice of FEPSA beaver felt is its chameleon nature. Indoors, under soft-white LED lighting (Image 2), it presents as a moody, organic taupe. However, once the Maryland sun hits (Image 3), the felt undergoes a total transformation into a cool, flinty grey. Even more interesting is how the tonal depth shifts with the sun’s angle (seen in solo Images 4, 5 and 6) moving from warm earthiness to a sophisticated slate.

Felt Texture: Beaver vs. The Pesca "Peach Skin"and Pre-WWII Rex:
The legendary Pesca finish is known for that airy peach-fuzz feel, but Darrell's beaver felt offers a different kind of luxury. It leans closer to the heirloom density of a pre-WWII Rex. It captures that distinctive pre-war substance—a felt that feels substantial and alive in the hand—yet it's finished with a velvety handle that remains incredibly supple. It strikes that rare balance of structural weight and refined finish.

The Art Fawcett Touch: (Images 4 & 5)
The ribbon work features a two-tone Art Fawcett square knot that absolutely glows in natural light. By angling the hats 3/4 to the right, you can see how the light catches the face and the fold of the knot. The contrast between the wine-colored ribbon and the shifting tones of the felt makes this feel like two hats in one.

The Verdict:
Placing a modern custom in a staircase lineup challenge with a pre-war fu Lazzaro and a Pesca-finish Alessandria is a tall order. Darrell didn't just meet the bar; he moved it. The weight, the rich hand of the felt, and the obsessive attention to the binding and interior architecture prove that we are looking at the work of a craftsman at the top of his game. This build isn't just a hat; it's a genuine luxury collectible.

-CJ

A note for @Darrell2688
I'm particularly interested in your thoughts on the perfected vision we discussed and how you approached the integration of the Art Fawcett ribbon work. It's a bridge between history and modern artisan skill that really sets this hat apart.

Curious: did AI write this?

 

[ruvort]

Curious: did AI write this?

Sure seems like it to me.

 

[belfastboy]

Sure seems like it to me.

I am just becoming more aware of the AI creep into our daily life. Not conversant in it at all....nor do I want to be. But the creep seems to grow more each day.

 

[Darrell2688]

Hi CJ,

I am almost afraid to say anything, your review is the best that I have ever read, I am honor by your review and speechless, however I will give it a try.

First, when I blocked the felt I wanted to make a brim close to a fedora size which is normally 2"-2.5", how ever I wanted just a little more so I cut it at 2.75", since it was going to be 7 1/8" hat size, I went with a 5.5" tall open crown, a 6" open crown would have been too much material to work with with a 7 1/8" hat size, I decided to use a tan color soft leather sweatband, because it is a FEPSA beaver very soft and the brown hat liner with the gold paisley print seemed like the proper choice for the hat, the brim binding blended in with the color of the felt, the burgundy color hat band made by Art Fawcett was the topper. The single crease crown just seemed proper for that fedora, when I looked at this fedora, I didn't think that a front pinch would look good on the fedora. The single top crease seamed like the only proper shape for this fedora. The FEPSA Beaver felt is a beautiful fur felt and has a very soft feel, putting anything other than a soft leather sweatband in this fedora would not have been a proper choice.

I decided to put a hat band on this fedora made by Art Fawcett, his hat bands are pure works of Art, a touch of class & that class was the perfect fit for this fedora.

When it comes to how the fedora or any hat is shaped is the customers choice, the changes made by the customer makes the fedora their hat. Hats use to be sold open crown to the customer, the crown crease were the customers own design and or choice.

Thank you CJ for the great review,
Darrell

 

[Darrell2688]

I don't know about AI, I don't have a clue about using it. I am just concerned about how a hat turns out, the response that I just posted is not AI, this is how things went or flowed when I was working on this fedora. I took my time, working on this fedora slowly, selecting each piece to make the hat took time, it was lucky for me that I had a soft calf leather sweatband in a light tan color, it was the perfect match for this felt, this beaver felt was different, it changed color with the amount of light that the hat body was exposed to, when I selected the brim binding I tried several colors of grosgrain ribbon all in 5/8" width, I wanted a binding wide enough to cover the edge with 1/8 of the material and give me an equal width above and below the brim. I had to select the binding ribbon in low light, when the hat body looked like khaki color. A bit of a challenge but working with this beaver felt was a pleasure, soft to the touch, the changing colors with the light, I wish that I had several more FEPSA felts in this color.

You can always go to my Ebay page and read the reviews posted by my customers:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?ite...5&toolid=10001&customid=modw79gd820004qa00004

121 reviews, 5 star

 

[FreeState-Fedora38]

I am just becoming more aware of the AI creep into our daily life. Not conversant in it at all....nor do I want to be. But the creep seems to grow more each day.

I understand the feeling that AI is creepy. While using tools to create professional sounding content is nothing new. All these thoughts, feeling, observations and expressions where solely mine. The focus should not be the on the writer, it should be on the discussion of Darrell's incredible work. I am just a hat geek with a technical background.

 

[FreeState-Fedora38]

Hi CJ,

I am almost afraid to say anything, your review is the best that I have ever read, I am honor by your review and speechless, however I will give it a try.

First, when I blocked the felt I wanted to make a brim close to a fedora size which is normally 2"-2.5", how ever I wanted just a little more so I cut it at 2.75", since it was going to be 7 1/8" hat size, I went with a 5.5" tall open crown, a 6" open crown would have been too much material to work with with a 7 1/8" hat size, I decided to use a tan color soft leather sweatband, because it is a FEPSA beaver very soft and the brown hat liner with the gold paisley print seemed like the proper choice for the hat, the brim binding blended in with the color of the felt, the burgundy color hat band made by Art Fawcett was the topper. The single crease crown just seemed proper for that fedora, when I looked at this fedora, I didn't think that a front pinch would look good on the fedora. The single top crease seamed like the only proper shape for this fedora. The FEPSA Beaver felt is a beautiful fur felt and has a very soft feel, putting anything other than a soft leather sweatband in this fedora would not have been a proper choice.

I decided to put a hat band on this fedora made by Art Fawcett, his hat bands are pure works of Art, a touch of class & that class was the perfect fit for this fedora.

When it comes to how the fedora or any hat is shaped is the customers choice, the changes made by the customer makes the fedora their hat. Hats use to be sold open crown to the customer, the crown crease were the customers own design and or choice.

Thank you CJ for the great review,
Darrell

Darell your words were perfect. I really love the story behind your hat, it gives credence when discussing with friends and family why this hat is the perfect addition for me.

 

[belfastboy]

I understand the feeling that AI is creepy. While using tools to create professional sounding content is nothing new. All these thoughts, feeling, observations and expressions where solely mine. The focus should not be the on the writer, it should be on the discussion of Darrell's incredible work. I am just a hat geek with a technical background.

I am a professional technical writer that finds the use of AI creepy. Off shoring a very human activity to robots is another bridge too far for me.

 

[Judgmentalist]

I am a professional technical writer that finds the use of AI creepy. Off shoring a very human activity to robots is another bridge too far for me.

I have occasion to write from time to time, and also a tendency to write long and clunky sentences. I sometimes use AI to streamline my thoughts; it will offer concise reconstructions or reorganizations of my text that I find useful. I always rewrite AI-generated text so it sounds like my voice. AI writing has a distinct flavor that is immediately recognizable, and once recognized, it is perceived as low effort by the recipient.

I reject suggested edits at least as often as I implement them.

I don’t inherently object to the use of AI; it’s a tool like anything else. I just prefer that tools be used skillfully and effectively.

I think the ubiquitous use of the current crop of AIs will taper off and AI will find its niche soon enough. It remains to be seen if it will ever be as useful as the tech guys would like for it to be. I doubt it.

—-
I write often, and I have a tendency toward long, clunky sentences. I’ll sometimes use AI to streamline my thinking—it’s good at reorganizing ideas and offering concise alternatives.

That said, I rarely use its output as-is. AI writing has a recognizable tone, and once you hear it, it reads as low effort. I rewrite anything I keep so it sounds like me.

I don’t object to AI itself—it’s just a tool. But like any tool, it’s only as good as the person using it.

My sense is that the current overuse will level off. AI will settle into a narrower, more practical role. Whether it becomes as useful as its proponents expect is still an open question.

—-
I write often, and my default is long, clunky sentences. AI is occasionally useful for tightening them—it’s good at reorganizing ideas and forcing clarity.

But its voice is obvious. Once you recognize it, it reads as low effort. So I treat it as a draft assistant at best and rewrite anything I keep.

I don’t have a problem with AI. I have a problem with people using it poorly.

Right now it’s everywhere, mostly used as a shortcut. That phase won’t last. It’ll settle into a narrower role where it actually earns its keep—assuming it ever does.

—-
I tend to write in long, inefficient sentences. AI is occasionally useful as a compression tool—it can restructure ideas and expose cleaner phrasing.

But it has a distinct output signature. Once you can identify it, the perceived effort drops immediately. So I treat it as a transformation layer, not an author, and rewrite anything I adopt.

I don’t object to AI in principle. It’s just a tool, and most tools are unimpressive in unskilled hands.

The current saturation feels temporary. It will likely compress into a narrower set of high-value use cases. Whether it reaches the utility its advocates claim is still unclear.

 

[Darrell2688]

Hello Fedora Fans,

I don't know about AI nor have I used it. When CJ contacted me on Ebay where I posted this fedora for sale, every message that we exchaged with each other talking about this FEPSA beaver fedora was very much in the same many as the review that CJ posted here on the Lounge, so with that in mind, CJ either used AI for all of his responses or a very educated person. I do not believe that he used AI for all of his responses. Taking into consideration the fedora hats in CJ's collection, pre WWII & a 1950's fedora I would have to deduce that CJ has put a lot of study & research into the hats that he has before he purchased those hats.

Have a Great Weekend & a even Better Week,
Darrell

 

[Judgmentalist]

Hello Fedora Fans,

I don't know about AI nor have I used it. When CJ contacted me on Ebay where I posted this fedora for sale, every message that we exchaged with each other talking about this FEPSA beaver fedora was very much in the same many as the review that CJ posted here on the Lounge, so with that in mind, CJ either used AI for all of his responses or a very educated person. I do not believe that he used AI for all of his responses. Taking into consideration the fedora hats in CJ's collection, pre WWII & a 1950's fedora I would have to deduce that CJ has put a lot of study & research into the hats that he has before he purchased the hats.

Have a Great Weekend & a even Better Week,
Darrell

Agreed Didn’t mean to suggest otherwise. AI is a glorified parrot. You get out what you put in.

I also don’t think the AI tangent has anything to do with the quality of your work, which is obvious, or is in any way meant as a critique to your customer; it’s just an interesting distraction. My apologies.

 

[Judgmentalist]

I’ve seen those ribbons for sale from that eBay seller that sells Art Fawcett stuff. Cool ribbons. The ones I’ve seen usually incorporate a little surprising dab of color, but in a way that isn’t distracting or ostentatious, in my opinion.

For my own education, I’m curious; did you source one from them or use them as inspiration for your own?

 

[Darrell2688]

I have occasion to write from time to time, and also a tendency to write long and clunky sentences. I sometimes use AI to streamline my thoughts; it will offer concise reconstructions or reorganizations of my text that I find useful. I always rewrite AI-generated text so it sounds like my voice. AI writing has a distinct flavor that is immediately recognizable, and once recognized, it is perceived as low effort by the recipient.

I reject suggested edits at least as often as I implement them.

I don’t inherently object to the use of AI; it’s a tool like anything else. I just prefer that tools be used skillfully and effectively.

I think the ubiquitous use of the current crop of AIs will taper off and AI will find its niche soon enough. It remains to be seen if it will ever be as useful as the tech guys would like for it to be. I doubt it.

—-
I write often, and I have a tendency toward long, clunky sentences. I’ll sometimes use AI to streamline my thinking—it’s good at reorganizing ideas and offering concise alternatives.

That said, I rarely use its output as-is. AI writing has a recognizable tone, and once you hear it, it reads as low effort. I rewrite anything I keep so it sounds like me.

I don’t object to AI itself—it’s just a tool. But like any tool, it’s only as good as the person using it.

My sense is that the current overuse will level off. AI will settle into a narrower, more practical role. Whether it becomes as useful as its proponents expect is still an open question.

—-
I write often, and my default is long, clunky sentences. AI is occasionally useful for tightening them—it’s good at reorganizing ideas and forcing clarity.

But its voice is obvious. Once you recognize it, it reads as low effort. So I treat it as a draft assistant at best and rewrite anything I keep.

I don’t have a problem with AI. I have a problem with people using it poorly.

Right now it’s everywhere, mostly used as a shortcut. That phase won’t last. It’ll settle into a narrower role where it actually earns its keep—assuming it ever does.

—-
I tend to write in long, inefficient sentences. AI is occasionally useful as a compression tool—it can restructure ideas and expose cleaner phrasing.

But it has a distinct output signature. Once you can identify it, the perceived effort drops immediately. So I treat it as a transformation layer, not an author, and rewrite anything I adopt.

I don’t object to AI in principle. It’s just a tool, and most tools are unimpressive in unskilled hands.

The current saturation feels temporary. It will likely compress into a narrower set of high-value use cases. Whether it reaches the utility its advocates claim is still unclear.

Ok, what does AI do if you write something using misspelled words and bad grammer, or slang words?
Do you have a special program in your computer that is all AI or what?
This back and fourth about AI has generated a little curiosity in me.
We have gone from talking about work on a fedora to talking about AI and the use of AI. NUTS???

 

[Judgmentalist]

Ok, what does AI do if you write something using misspelled words and bad grammer, or slang words?
Do you have a special program in your computer that is all AI or what?
This back and fourth about AI has generated a little curiosity in me.
We have gone from talking about work on a fedora to talking about AI and the use of AI. NUTS???

People use AI for all kinds of stuff, but in this context,

I use ChatGPT—basically you paste text in and it can clean it up, shorten it, or reword it. It doesn’t really care if the grammar’s rough or there’s slang—it just figures out what you meant and smooths it out.


Microsoft has the same idea built right into their products now with Microsoft Copilot. In Word, Outlook, Teams, etc., you can highlight text, hit a button, and it’ll rewrite it for you. So realistically, anyone on a PC can do this—copy, paste, “make this sound better,” done.

Where it falls apart a bit:

• It has a recognizable tone if you just take the first draft. Kind of polished but generic.
• It can miss nuance—especially sarcasm, humor, or when you’re trying to sound like yourself instead of “professional.”
• It’ll sometimes be confident and wrong, especially if you’re asking it for facts instead of just rewriting something.
• It doesn’t really “know” anything—it’s just predicting what sounds right, so you still have to use judgment.

So the way most people use it well is as a draft tool, not a final product. Clean it up, then rewrite it so it actually sounds like you.

 

[Darrell2688]

I’ve seen those ribbons for sale from that eBay seller that sells Art Fawcett stuff. Cool ribbons. The ones I’ve seen usually incorporate a little surprising dab of color, but in a way that isn’t distracting or ostentatious, in my opinion.

For my own education, I’m curious; did you source one from them or use them as inspiration for your own?

I purchased the Art Fawcett hat bands from the store on Ebay, I requested the hat bands that I used from Art, in fact I have ask for more of the same, I put a silver gray on the steel blue fedora that I posted in this section, I have a few more of his hat bands 2 are a dark steel color with a touch of red wine, I also have a burgundy hat band that does not have the 2 tone knot.
I really like the Burgundy color with the silver gray, it looks good on a Silver Belly felt, the brown color looks good on a bone color felt. Just my opinion. I have more invested in the hat when I finish the hat, but that does not matter, I want to make a hat that people will be happy and proud to wear, that is why I only use pure rabbit or pure beaver, just not happy with a mix, there is something in the mix idea.