Bolero and how to keep the brim flat

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I’ve been making hats for a while now but just recently took my first commission for a Bolero hat so my question is for those of you who have experience building this type of hat, what’s the trick to making the brim to where it will remain in a flat position even after placed atop the head? Any and all advice or tips would be much appreciated. Also while I’ve been a member of this community for even longer than I’ve been making hats, this is my first post somehow. Luckily you folks have provided me with invaluable information over the years that it wasn’t necessary to ask for help so thank you good folks for that.

 

[shopkin]

If the shape of the crown does not match the shape of the head (e.g. oval or long oval) then the lower edge of the crown will have to deform. Where the lower edge of the crown goes, so goes the brim.

 

[jackadven]

If the shape of the crown does not match the shape of the head (e.g. oval or long oval) then the lower edge of the crown will have to deform. Where the lower edge of the crown goes, so goes the brim.

This is the usefulness of a formillion or custom band block, which you can put in the hat and then iron the brim flat.

 

[Screencapped]

If the shape of the crown does not match the shape of the head (e.g. oval or long oval) then the lower edge of the crown will have to deform. Where the lower edge of the crown goes, so goes the brim.

Thank you very much for that.. The individual I’m making this hat for wears a long oval so I’ll definitely be keeping your advice in mind when building his hat.

 

[Screencapped]

This is the usefulness of a formillion or custom band block, which you can put in the hat and then iron the brim flat.

Thank you! The individual I’m making this hat for has a long oval head shape so I think the safest bet is for me to add a half cm or so when making the sweatband to ensure there’s no distortion when he places it on his head.

 

[belfastboy]

I’ve been making hats for a while now but just recently took my first commission for a Bolero hat so my question is for those of you who have experience building this type of hat, what’s the trick to making the brim to where it will remain in a flat position even after placed atop the head? Any and all advice or tips would be much appreciated. Also while I’ve been a member of this community for even longer than I’ve been making hats, this is my first post somehow. Luckily you folks have provided me with invaluable information over the years that it wasn’t necessary to ask for help so thank you good folks for that.

Invest in a brim plater if you have an extra $12k or fashion a press out of plyboard and clamps. Iron...dry steam not wet...clamp...leave to dry and set overnight at least. I know hat makers that have told me it wasn't until they bought the hydraulic brim plater that they achieved true flat brims. The plater flatten the brim but also compresses the felt under the high hydraulic pressure.