How to distinguish quality fedoras from the others?

[Marston11]

Hello, I am an aspiring sartorialist and I wish to learn how I could determine if a fedora hat is quality or not.

I do not know if this was asked before but I do need help. Back when I was a younger sartorialist, I couldn't really curb my enthusiasm and purchased a pair of fedoras from a run down shop. It was quite rigid, always creaked in a weird way whenever I held it. I am looking to find a new one to replace it. By replacing I do mean it. I want something I'll never get bored of, something I will wear until I grow old. May it be second-hand or new, as long as it fits me both physically and aesthetically, I'll be happy.

Preface to expected suggestions:
I am aware that stetson, Akubra, Lock & Co and Agnoulita make pretty good hats but I am not sure since I have never seen them in real life due to their shops not being available in my country. From what I have seen on their websites, Stetson's hats looked a bit machine made and I didn't really believe Agnoulita's genuinity.
Ofc I wouldn't know but I am a bit skeptical.

Apologies if this paragraph gives you a stroke, English is not my first language.

TLDR: How to choose quality fedora, that's it.

 

[belfastboy]

Hello, I am an aspiring sartorialist and I wish to learn how I could determine if a fedora hat is quality or not.

I do not know if this was asked before but I do need help. Back when I was a younger sartorialist, I couldn't really curb my enthusiasm and purchased a pair of fedoras from a run down shop. It was quite rigid, always creaked in a weird way whenever I held it. I am looking to find a new one to replace it. By replacing I do mean it. I want something I'll never get bored of, something I will wear until I grow old. May it be second-hand or new, as long as it fits me both physically and aesthetically, I'll be happy.

Preface to expected suggestions:
I am aware that stetson, Akubra, Lock & Co and Agnoulita make pretty good hats but I am not sure since I have never seen them in real life due to their shops not being available in my country. From what I have seen on their websites, Stetson's hats looked a bit machine made and I didn't really believe Agnoulita's genuinity.
Ofc I wouldn't know but I am a bit skeptical.

Apologies if this paragraph gives you a stroke, English is not my first language.

TLDR: How to choose quality fedora, that's it.

In what country are you located. Let us know and we can direct you to a custom hat maker. Stetson & Akubras are just OK. But if you want a hat that looks great and will last then look to a custom beaver hat. Lock & Co are overpriced, Agnoulita is OK and a step above Stetsons.

 

[Marston11]

In what country are you located. Let us know and we can direct you to a custom hat maker. Stetson & Akubras are just OK. But if you want a hat that looks great and will last then look to a custom beaver hat. Lock & Co are overpriced, Agnoulita is OK and a step above Stetsons.

As a Stetson fanboy(due to the immense amount of westerns I grew up with), I am shocked at how Agnoulita is a step above them. Could you tell me how? I am very curious.

Also apologies but I am not really comfortable with talking about where I am from. I know it sounds dumb but it's the internet. Who knows who could be looking at this. Just know that I do not live in a western country.

I could say that I am planning on going to germany around this year or next year. I heard they don't keep their vintages in good condition, in contrast to America. That is all I will say.

 

[belfastboy]

As a Stetson fanboy(due to the immense amount of westerns I grew up with), I am shocked at how Agnoulita is a step above them. Could you tell me how? I am very curious.

Also apologies but I am not really comfortable with talking about where I am from. I know it sounds dumb but it's the internet. Who knows who could be looking at this. Just know that I do not live in a western country.

I could say that I am planning on going to germany around this year or next year. I heard they don't keep their vintages in good condition, in contrast to America. That is all I will say.

Agnoulita uses Tonak felts from Chechia. They are good quality rabbit and superior to the run of the mill Stetson product. You are also correct that Stetsons look machine made....they are! Stetsons use **** components; cheap poly ribbon, terrible leather sweat bands. Agnoulita uses higher quality trimmings plus they customize. Check out the Agnoulita thread here in the Lounge. Lock is terribly over priced. Use Google to search for a custom hat maker in your area and begin a discussion with them. Also, determine your budget, how much are you willing to spend on the "lifetime hat"? Custom hat maker prices vary greatly.

 

[Marston11]

Agnoulita uses Tonak felts from Chechia. They are good quality rabbit and superior to the run of the mill Stetson product. You are also correct that Stetsons look machine made....they are! Stetsons use **** components; cheap poly ribbon, terrible leather sweat bands. Agnoulita uses higher quality trimmings plus they customize. Check out the Agnoulita thread here in the Lounge. Lock is terribly over priced. Use Google to search for a custom hat maker in your area and begin a discussion with them. Also, determine your budget, how much are you willing to spend on the "lifetime hat"? Custom hat maker prices vary greatly.

Greece is beating America and others at hat making....

What is the world coming to!

Seriously though, thank you for that information. About my budget, I'd probably pay around 200 euros at most for such a hat.

 

[belfastboy]

Greece is beating America and others at hat making....

What is the world coming to!

Seriously though, thank you for that information. About my budget, I'd probably pay around 200 euros at most for such a hat.

Well, I am not sure of Agnoulita's prices these days but that is a low amount for a good hat. A decent custom will run 300 to 400 Euros minimum. I am not sure you can even find an Akubra or Stetson for that amount. If you are serious about wanting a life time hat, one that looks good and not a mass produced, factory made hat postpone your buy and save up. Save 10 to 15 Euros a month, add in your 200 and this time next year you can afford a good hat.

 

[Marston11]

Well, I am not sure of Agnoulita's prices these days but that is a low amount for a good hat. A decent custom will run 300 to 400 Euros minimum. I am not sure you can even find an Akubra or Stetson for that amount. If you are serious about wanting a life time hat, one that looks good and not a mass produced, factory made hat postpone your buy and save up. Save 10 to 15 Euros a month, add in your 200 and this time next year you can afford a good hat.

What about vintage or second-hand hats? I am ok with buying existing models too I am not that picky.

Also just so you know, I am a college student sooo money is quite tricky for me. But I do buy 50 euros every month with my student loans. That is how I saved up to 200 euros. So that's that.

 

[belfastboy]

What about vintage or second-hand hats? I am ok with buying existing models too I am not that picky.

Also just so you know, I am a college student sooo money is quite tricky for me. But I do buy 50 euros every month with my student loans. That is how I saved up to 200 euros. So that's that.

Buying vintage/second hand hats is risky online. I have no idea of the European market. It does depend on your size. If you are size 7 or less you can pick them up more cheaply. 7 1/4 and up the price rises considerably. But there is risk, hats tend to shrink over time. Has the seller disclosed all flaws, stains, moth nibbles, odours etc etc. When I was actively collecting I discovered the risks and stopped collecting as you have to kiss a lot of frogs to find the princes. As a newbie on the hunt just know it will be risky and yo could waste your money on a bad hat.

 

[Marston11]

Buying vintage/second hand hats is risky online. I have no idea of the European market. It does depend on your size. If you are size 7 or less you can pick them up more cheaply. 7 1/4 and up the price rises considerably. But there is risk, hats tend to shrink over time. Has the seller disclosed all flaws, stains, moth nibbles, odours etc etc. When I was actively collecting I discovered the risks and stopped collecting as you have to kiss a lot of frogs to find the princes. As a newbie on the hunt just know it will be risky and yo could waste your money on a bad hat.

What can I say except, indeed. I guess I'll take the info you have given me so far and do my own research on Agnoulita and vintage stuff

Do you have any other suggestions or advice you would like to give me? I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[belfastboy]

What can I say except, indeed. I guess I'll take the info you have given me so far and do my own research on Agnoulita and vintage stuff

Do you have any other suggestions or advice you would like to give me? I would greatly appreciate it.

Agnoulita is about $500 Canadian for a hat. Check the classified section here. The sellers here are legit and for the most part are hat people. We have some wonderful sellers in Italy and Netherlands. Depending on your patience and your size you might find something here. Othere wise, delay your purchase, save your pennies and don't waste money on an inferior hat.

 

[Marston11]

Agnoulita is about $500 Canadian for a hat. Check the classified section here. The sellers here are legit and for the most part are hat people. We have some wonderful sellers in Italy and Netherlands. Depending on your patience and your size you might find something here. Othere wise, delay your purchase, save your pennies and don't waste money on an inferior hat.

Thank you very much. I'll be sure to check them out

Also, could you elaborate on the Italy and Netherlands thing?

 

[belfastboy]

Thank you very much. I'll be sure to check them out

Also, could you elaborate on the Italy and Netherlands thing?

We have sellers here in The Lounge that live in Italy and the Netherlands and post hats to sell from time to time. I assume they are closer to you than a USA seller.

 

[Marston11]

We have sellers here in The Lounge that live in Italy and the Netherlands and post hats to sell from time to time. I assume they are closer to you than a USA seller.

That's great!

An inquiry though, besides the aforementioned brands, what other brands would you recommend?

Another inquiry, do you think Thomas Farthing makes good hats?

 

[Rmccamey]

There are a multitude of high quality, custom makers (including Hufvud, who might be closer to you in Sweden). While modern hats from the primary international retail hat brands don't compare favorably to vintage hats, they serve a purpose and, with reasonable care, can last for many, many years.

The large scale, retail brands include:

Stetson - US
Borsalino - Italy
Mayser - Germany
Acubra - Australia
Lock & Co - England

That's great!

An inquiry though, besides the aforementioned brands, what other brands would you recommend?

Another inquiry, do you think Thomas Farthing makes good hats?

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Thank you very much. I'll be sure to check them out

Also, could you elaborate on the Italy and Netherlands thing?

After reading your questions and the corresponding answers on how to recognize quality hats, I have an answer: you need to handle a lot of them. Start by buying from the vintage market and build up experience by touching, evaluating, and comparing them. That is how you learn about the world of hats.
The European vintage market is teeming with hats from various makers and eras; this is your workshop.
It is a waste of time to seek information on current manufacturers without first having handled the hats produced during the golden age of hat-making. The cost of this experience varies by size—smaller sizes are cheaper, while prices rise as you move up to a size 58 or larger—but you can find real gems even in larger sizes.
Let me know what you are looking for and your size, I will try to find a solution.

 

[Marston11]

After reading your questions and the corresponding answers on how to recognize quality hats, I have an answer: you need to handle a lot of them. Start by buying from the vintage market and build up experience by touching, evaluating, and comparing them. That is how you learn about the world of hats.
The European vintage market is teeming with hats from various makers and eras; this is your workshop.
It is a waste of time to seek information on current manufacturers without first having handled the hats produced during the golden age of hat-making. The cost of this experience varies by size—smaller sizes are cheaper, while prices rise as you move up to a size 58 or larger—but you can find real gems even in larger sizes.
Let me know what you are looking for and your size, I will try to find a solution.

I don't have an exact model I am looking for since as far as I have seen, every fedora is a little bit different. Like neckties. I do want something that is the most genuine, in a similar sense to buy jeans from Levi's. It could be heritage or not I do not mind that. Especially with the state of hat makers nowadays.

If I were to give a reference, I'd say my fedora of choice would be the Stetson Imperial Bantam.

About the experiencing, you can not be more correct. I couldn't gain any experience ever due to quantity overpowering quality where I live. And fedoras are seldom remembered for what they were.

That is all.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

I don't have an exact model I am looking for since as far as I have seen, every fedora is a little bit different. Like neckties. I do want something that is the most genuine, in a similar sense to buy jeans from Levi's. It could be heritage or not I do not mind that. Especially with the state of hat makers nowadays.

If I were to give a reference, I'd say my fedora of choice would be the Stetson Imperial Bantam.

About the experiencing, you can not be more correct. I couldn't gain any experience ever due to quantity overpowering quality where I live. And fedoras are seldom remembered for what they were.

That is all.

I have no hands-on experience with the Stetson Bantam Imperial; I’ve only seen it in photos. I can, however, tell you about the Cervo Bantam...
Given the various obstacles you seem to be facing, I have a practical question: can you access the European vintage market online? If so, you have a very real chance of getting into the world of hats; otherwise, it’s a problem that is much harder to solve.

 

[Marston11]

I have no hands-on experience with the Stetson Bantam Imperial; I’ve only seen it in photos. I can, however, tell you about the Cervo Bantam...
Given the various obstacles you seem to be facing, I have a practical question: can you access the European vintage market online? If so, you have a very real chance of getting into the world of hats; otherwise, it’s a problem that is much harder to solve.

Unfortunately I do not have a proper access to the european vintage market online. It is due to political and financial reasons. But once I am abroad, I think I'll be able to get my hands on a real one. May it be machine made or handmade. I will definitely visit countless amounts of vintage stores and hat stores once I set my foot there. To be Frank with you people, I just don't want to regret it later on. That is the whole point of why I am asking this. To whoever's most knowledgeable in hattery. I know I regretted buying my first fedora. Especially since Fedora hats have sentimental value to me. Spending money on something I won't see the tomorrow of. Something that won't last as much as the original. I ought to drink homemade alcohol instead of paying for a decent spirit.

Anyhow, I am trying to shape my future trip around this. Like purchasing Oranges from Spain.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

will definitely visit countless amounts of vintage stores and hat stores once I set my foot there

Sorry to say that here, Europe, are not so common and at least, in my country, vanished

 

[Marston11]

Sorry to say that here, Europe, are not so common and at least, in my country, vanished

We, good sir, are brothers in fate.

My greatest condolences and respects to you.