Show us your suits

[Nick D]

I've finished the mending and alterations for the suit I posted before. I realized I should have taken before and after photos, but I didn't so I'll describe it. I've also posted the second tag.

The trousers are not quite loose, but fit comfortably at the waistband. However, they balooned out in the seat and crotch, tapered slightly in the led to the knee and sharply to the ankle, which was 8" laid flat. I took in the seat at crotch, and let out the legs onto the original stitch line. They still taper some, but not nearly so much and are much more comfortable. The cuff is now 9 7/8" laid flat and 1 3/4" wide. They still don't hang perfect, but it's a vast improvement. I also mended a small tear in the leg, two on the bottom of the cuffs, and reenforced a weak spot on one cuff, which can't be seen when worn.

I mended the lining on the waistcoat, and also the lining on the jacket. (I can't quite get any shirt cuff to show, but this shirt's sleeves are only just long enough and low in the armhole. I've altered the pattern to lengthen the sleeve and raise the armhole, which should help.)

Here's the tag in the trousers. It's hard to make out everything. The bottom line is Mch. 28: 46 F. Could that be 'March 28th, 1946' (wishful thinking...)?

 

[thunderw21]

Nice work, Nick, looks great.

Glad to see you put new life in that old suit.

 

[benstephens]

Nick D,

There is nothing to suggest that is not the date, the style and cut etc are all in keeping. I would say, in all probabilty it is the date of the suit.

Well done,

Ben

 

[GBR]

Nick D

That looks one hell of a good suit and a pretty good fit. If I might say so as a long hair myself - your hair complements it well - you appear very imposing.

I would suspect that the date is genuine. All the visible details look right - high back and pockets etc.. One other sign is the inner pockets of the coat - how many does it have. One single in-breast (right) and a left in-ticket would tend to confirm its timeline.

 

[nickn5]

Picked this up, a 1930s/early 40s (Old Union Made Clothing tag: ACWA Series AE, copyright 1936.) three piece suit, on the 'bay a couple of days ago:

Looking forward to getting it and trying it on...

N.

 

[Nick D]

Nick D

That looks one hell of a good suit and a pretty good fit. If I might say so as a long hair myself - your hair complements it well - you appear very imposing.

I would suspect that the date is genuine. All the visible details look right - high back and pockets etc.. One other sign is the inner pockets of the coat - how many does it have. One single in-breast (right) and a left in-ticket would tend to confirm its timeline.

GBR, it has two interior pockets (one on each side), not one. I'm not sure what you mean by 'in-ticket'. Is that the small low interior pocket? My other 3-piece has that feature, but not this one.

Cheers,
Nick

 

[Tomasso]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'in-ticket'. Is that the small low interior pocket?

Yep.

 

[benstephens]

A lot of suits did have two interior pockets, especially tailor made ones. The other pocket quite often is an interior pocket on the inside skirt of the jacket. Either left or right depending on where the person wanted it.

Kindest Regards

Ben

 

[Tomasso]

Love the lapels and patch pockets all around (particularly the slanted breast pocket). Are the front quarters squared?

 

[GBR]

GBR, it has two interior pockets (one on each side), not one. I'm not sure what you mean by 'in-ticket'. Is that the small low interior pocket? My other 3-piece has that feature, but not this one.

Cheers,
Nick

Yes it is.. That is the more common one at this time but I agree that those favouring bespoke tailors may have been more advanced in their thoughts that the RTW merchants.

 

[benstephens]

Indeed that is true, and it actually does not make sense to have an inside pocket the side of the outside breat pocket. With a hankerchief and anything in it, a good amount of bulk is added.

I have certainly seen a number of suits for left handers, with the pockets swapped around.

As GBR says, the majority of off the rack suits have only one inside pocket, and very rarely, if ever cater for left handers.

However, assumption for bespoke tailoring can be a little misleading in regards to dating a suit. I have seen many post 1945 suits (Tailor Made) with two inside pockets. I have also managed to get quite a number of cheaper 1930s suits because of peoples assumptions.

I have a number of waistcoats as well with inside pockets, I suspect for money etc.

Kindest regards

Ben

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I strongly suspect that this suit jacket was originally a 4-button, double-breasted. The jacket's hip pockets are too far out to the sides.

.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I thought so too. The pockets and the cut of the bottom of the jacket closure.

We should note here that some of what people are saying above applies only to suits from certain countries. I've never seen a 1930s German suit with only one inner pocket. They have all had two. French the same. And Italian.

bk

 

[reetpleat]

Picked this up, a 1930s/early 40s (Old Union Made Clothing tag: ACWA Series AE, copyright 1936.) three piece suit, on the 'bay a couple of days ago:

Looking forward to getting it and trying it on...

N.

Love that style.

As much as I love the belted back "holy grail' suit being sold by PDX Vintage, I like the longer, square bottom cut peak lapel with a vest of this style better. seems so sophisticated. Very rare. What size and price was it? Do you have a link to the listing?

 

[reetpleat]

I strongly suspect that this suit jacket was originally a 4-button, double-breasted. The jacket's hip pockets are too far out to the sides.

.

Something seemed a little off as to the front where the first button buttons, to my eye. You may be right. The real test woudl be if it has a button hole on the inside. That and what is the curcmference of the waist of the jacket as compared to waist of the pants. And the squared off bottom, while not absolute, would be very rare for a single breasted.

 

[nickn5]

Yep certainly, the suit was at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400027184539

It might have been a DB originally, but then again, looking at some old photos and films, I see several of the peak lapel SB suits with their pockets way out around the side, not as far forward as on modern suits.
Either way, it looks pretty good I think and as soon as it arrives I'll be able to examine more closely and post more pics.

N.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The buttonhole in each lapel pretty much gives it away.

bk

 

[Tomasso]

The buttonhole in each lapel pretty much gives it away.

I must either be loosing my eyesight (probably) or need a new monitor (definitely) but I'm not seeing that other buttonhole. [huh]

 

[reetpleat]

The way the chest and belly are kind of bulbous might be a good indicator of it's true db provenance.

 

[reetpleat]

Waist 35. Can not be let out. My guess is this is a suit that has been modified to fit a person who has grown, or a different person. The pants were likely a size 32 or so. which would correspond to a wider jacket waist needed. But what about the vest. If it has fabric added in the back, that would be a good indication.

Still pretty cool and I am sure it will look good either way..