Hi everyone!
I'm looking for accurate formal Victorian frock coats to purchase, preferably available as a 3-piece suit with matching trousers and a matching waistcoat, as well I want it to be made just as high-quality as originals, out of wools, cottons, and maybe viscose at the most, but no no no no no polyesters or anything truly plasticy and ****py. Made based on original patterns/coats is a bonus, though so long as it's accurate I don't *really* care as much. I'm not looking for Victorian shirts, collars, or ties, I already got those from Darcy Clothing.
Preferably around $1000-$1500 for a whole 3-piece suit, frock coat, trousers, and waistcoat.
I already own a couple antique Edwardian/Late-Victorian frock coats, but they both have some issues. The first is great in fit, fabric, and has a decent cut/silhouette. However, it has faded into the deep green color that all black antique garments become. This makes pairing it harder since I have to consider the greenish color when color-pairing, and green just isn't fun to pair for me the same as black, brown, grey, or blue. If it was black it'd be perfect as my black formal frock coat.
My second frock coat is black, the cut is good, and it's got partial satin facings which I really love. However, the fit is slightly uncomfortable in the shoulder. It doesn't stop me from wearing it though, it's just that there's a bit of dimpling around the shoulders. The second issue is that the partial lapel facings are beginning to shred on the inside, and eventually the shredding will spread to the outside, rendering the coat too ugly to wear. I understand I can pay to have the lapels replaced (I'm not gonna sew anything myself), but it's really expensive, and the coat already fits me inoptimally, so I'd rather just invest those extra few hundred dollars into buying a new coat/suit, hence this post.
I've looked at Darcy Clothing's Victorian Frock coat, and it looks quite impressive in terms of cut, construction, and quality. The price is a big issue, at least for now, it's quite expensive for me, especially considering the hefty import fees into the USA. But, I can get over it to some extent, for the good quality. However, one thing that I'm not too fond of is there's only one color option. Black. Which is still quite nice, however I would much prefer having alternate color options, since a brown frock suit is at the top of my wants list. So unless I've already got myself other-colored frock coats, I'd rather wait on the Darcy stuff. It's basically my last resort, worst case scenario I'll go black. I'll get the black one at some point no matter what though, just preferably after I've got a brown one for everyday wear.
I've looked at Historical Emporium, and I'm not impressed. Polyester and cotton, that's it. No No.
I've looked at South Union Tailoring. I've heard good things, and they seem to make great stuff, particularly sack suits, but that's not what I currently want. They don't make the formal style of frock coat I'm looking for, and that's a bummer.
Southworth Tailoring seem great, but don't currently make frock coats.
I know of a website called Quartermastershop.com, which has permanently closed down. I've seen great things from them, and I wouldn't even be on this forum if they were open since the stuff I've seen people wearing from them seems so good. If y'all know of any similar makers that'd be great.
I've seen 19th-century-tailoring.co.uk, but from what I can tell their stuff takes a reeeeally long time, is very often delayed, is sometimes inaccurate, is accused of being outsourced, and overall doesn't seem worth my time or money. Their CT029A 1850-90s Double Breasted Civilian Frock Coat seems really nice in style, I like those lapels and velvet options, but again, they seem sketch.
historyinthemaking.org seem pretty nice, but I haven't seen a lot of their stuff out and about, so I'm not sure as to the quality or customer service. Their stuff is on the pricier side, but their customization options and variety of styles/periods seem promising, so I'd like to hear what others have experienced with them.
ushist.com is similar to the previous option. Great customization options, various styles/periods to choose from, old-fashioned website design. They are quite nicely priced, though of course that can also be seen as a point of concern, since I don't know anything about them. I'd love to hear about people's experiences with them.
Honorable mention to the shop Treadle Treasures on Etsy, they seem to have very good reviews, and make high-quality stuff, however they make more casual coats and seemingly nothing more formal such as dressy frock coats or tailcoats. I'm considering buying a waistcoat or an ascot from them, and they seem to be willing to cooperate a lot about custom stuff, but I don't think they do formal frock coats from what I can tell.
If anybody knows any shops on websites such as Etsy or eBay it'd be great, since of course it means it's easier to file disputes if there's any funny business, and reviews are much more likely to be legit. However it's quite hard to find good legitimate shops, and I only found Treadle Treasures through a buddy of mine. Most Etsy/eBay stuff is just copy-pasted slop that ships you a half/baked chinese poleyester costume.
I think I've gone over all my questions, research, and concerns here, so I'd really appreciate hearing what people have to say. If anyone has any more questions about what I'm looking for, I'll be happy to answer them.
Thanks.
Also, here are some images of the kinda cuts/styles of frock coats I'm looking for. Preferably something a bit more early-mid Victorian like the first 3 images, though something slightly later Victorian is fine too, depending on stylistic details. Usually something with a wider lapel, little to no opening in the notch area creating a very narrow notch or fishmouth lapel shape. Buttons going all the way up both sides of the lapel to create the look that the coat buttons all the way up, without necessarily actually doing so. Preferably having the option for partial or full satin facings, satin piping, and contrasting velvet collar and even velvet cuffs. A defined Victorian silhouette with noticeable flare in the skirt, a narrow waist, and then a bit more space back up around the chest and shoulders.
I'm looking for accurate formal Victorian frock coats to purchase, preferably available as a 3-piece suit with matching trousers and a matching waistcoat, as well I want it to be made just as high-quality as originals, out of wools, cottons, and maybe viscose at the most, but no no no no no polyesters or anything truly plasticy and ****py. Made based on original patterns/coats is a bonus, though so long as it's accurate I don't *really* care as much. I'm not looking for Victorian shirts, collars, or ties, I already got those from Darcy Clothing.
Preferably around $1000-$1500 for a whole 3-piece suit, frock coat, trousers, and waistcoat.
I already own a couple antique Edwardian/Late-Victorian frock coats, but they both have some issues. The first is great in fit, fabric, and has a decent cut/silhouette. However, it has faded into the deep green color that all black antique garments become. This makes pairing it harder since I have to consider the greenish color when color-pairing, and green just isn't fun to pair for me the same as black, brown, grey, or blue. If it was black it'd be perfect as my black formal frock coat.
My second frock coat is black, the cut is good, and it's got partial satin facings which I really love. However, the fit is slightly uncomfortable in the shoulder. It doesn't stop me from wearing it though, it's just that there's a bit of dimpling around the shoulders. The second issue is that the partial lapel facings are beginning to shred on the inside, and eventually the shredding will spread to the outside, rendering the coat too ugly to wear. I understand I can pay to have the lapels replaced (I'm not gonna sew anything myself), but it's really expensive, and the coat already fits me inoptimally, so I'd rather just invest those extra few hundred dollars into buying a new coat/suit, hence this post.
I've looked at Darcy Clothing's Victorian Frock coat, and it looks quite impressive in terms of cut, construction, and quality. The price is a big issue, at least for now, it's quite expensive for me, especially considering the hefty import fees into the USA. But, I can get over it to some extent, for the good quality. However, one thing that I'm not too fond of is there's only one color option. Black. Which is still quite nice, however I would much prefer having alternate color options, since a brown frock suit is at the top of my wants list. So unless I've already got myself other-colored frock coats, I'd rather wait on the Darcy stuff. It's basically my last resort, worst case scenario I'll go black. I'll get the black one at some point no matter what though, just preferably after I've got a brown one for everyday wear.
I've looked at Historical Emporium, and I'm not impressed. Polyester and cotton, that's it. No No.
I've looked at South Union Tailoring. I've heard good things, and they seem to make great stuff, particularly sack suits, but that's not what I currently want. They don't make the formal style of frock coat I'm looking for, and that's a bummer.
Southworth Tailoring seem great, but don't currently make frock coats.
I know of a website called Quartermastershop.com, which has permanently closed down. I've seen great things from them, and I wouldn't even be on this forum if they were open since the stuff I've seen people wearing from them seems so good. If y'all know of any similar makers that'd be great.
I've seen 19th-century-tailoring.co.uk, but from what I can tell their stuff takes a reeeeally long time, is very often delayed, is sometimes inaccurate, is accused of being outsourced, and overall doesn't seem worth my time or money. Their CT029A 1850-90s Double Breasted Civilian Frock Coat seems really nice in style, I like those lapels and velvet options, but again, they seem sketch.
historyinthemaking.org seem pretty nice, but I haven't seen a lot of their stuff out and about, so I'm not sure as to the quality or customer service. Their stuff is on the pricier side, but their customization options and variety of styles/periods seem promising, so I'd like to hear what others have experienced with them.
ushist.com is similar to the previous option. Great customization options, various styles/periods to choose from, old-fashioned website design. They are quite nicely priced, though of course that can also be seen as a point of concern, since I don't know anything about them. I'd love to hear about people's experiences with them.
Honorable mention to the shop Treadle Treasures on Etsy, they seem to have very good reviews, and make high-quality stuff, however they make more casual coats and seemingly nothing more formal such as dressy frock coats or tailcoats. I'm considering buying a waistcoat or an ascot from them, and they seem to be willing to cooperate a lot about custom stuff, but I don't think they do formal frock coats from what I can tell.
If anybody knows any shops on websites such as Etsy or eBay it'd be great, since of course it means it's easier to file disputes if there's any funny business, and reviews are much more likely to be legit. However it's quite hard to find good legitimate shops, and I only found Treadle Treasures through a buddy of mine. Most Etsy/eBay stuff is just copy-pasted slop that ships you a half/baked chinese poleyester costume.
I think I've gone over all my questions, research, and concerns here, so I'd really appreciate hearing what people have to say. If anyone has any more questions about what I'm looking for, I'll be happy to answer them.
Thanks.
Also, here are some images of the kinda cuts/styles of frock coats I'm looking for. Preferably something a bit more early-mid Victorian like the first 3 images, though something slightly later Victorian is fine too, depending on stylistic details. Usually something with a wider lapel, little to no opening in the notch area creating a very narrow notch or fishmouth lapel shape. Buttons going all the way up both sides of the lapel to create the look that the coat buttons all the way up, without necessarily actually doing so. Preferably having the option for partial or full satin facings, satin piping, and contrasting velvet collar and even velvet cuffs. A defined Victorian silhouette with noticeable flare in the skirt, a narrow waist, and then a bit more space back up around the chest and shoulders.
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