Show and tell : I.G.Frank (Insane genius) d-pocket aviator

[TartuWolf]

Disclaimer : this is a post-surgery show and tell / review. I'm one of the few on TFL that are pro-alteration unless we are talking about expensive or original/vintage pieces. But since I spend most of my time in the budget 200-300eur tier I do authorise a certain amount of butchering in case I like the piece enough otherwise and believe that the alterations would elevate that piece into a keeper position.
Obviously helps to have a trustworthy local tailor - I'm glad to support a small local business in that regard.

When I bought this jacket I couldn't find much info about his brand. And what I saw from photos was very mixed. But this piece looked very solid for the price (I paid <200eur for it).
Here are a few old listings for some I.G.Frank jackets where the label does match mine.
https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/jp/auction/yahoo/input/e1053643494/
https://www.2ndstreet.jp/goods/detail/goodsId/2333896594925
https://www.2ndstreet.jp/goods/detail/goodsId/2319072250144
So I thought I'd share pictures and throughts of the specimen that I aquired.

Alterations done to this jacket:
My leather tailor removed the side adjusters, closed up one of the handwarmer pockets that was gaping horrendously in my opinion and took in the waist because it was too baggy for my taste. Cost me around 50eur.
Here's how it looked like before the alterations:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fit-check-thread-for-jackets.114927/post-3239480

The jacket:
It's an I.G.Frank (Insane Genius) black horsehide (stealth) d-pocket aviator.
Very poor choice as far as the left handwarmer pocket placement goes in my opinion.
Beautiful multi panel back similar to an Aero Hooch Hauler.
Two way old-time universal aged brass #10 zipper with a contrasting/beige tape.
Matching button cuffs and buttoned coin pocket, again contrasting with the black.
Nice and stealthy ball and chain zipper deep d-pocket up front.
Wool body lining, slippery synthetic sleeve lining.
Rather unique wearers right internal pocket.
Size M equals to a pretty typical 36 in this case.
Front drop.
Made in China, but (according to the seller) using Japanese horsehide.
The leather itself is very smooth, dense and slightly plasticky, but it's pretty mint, maybe it will develop some.
Nice clicking, very uniform, only on the inside of the cuffs you can see and feel thinner or less dense leather with more grain.

Fit:
I'm 172cm tall and ~58kg in weight. I'd like it to be a bit shorter, especially in the front, but the 2-way zipper helps with that. It was too baggy in the waist before the alteration but pretty sweet after it. A bit too roomy for t-shirt or thin shirt, but great for a bit of layering with a wool sweater.

I'll add pictures later as TFL seems to be having issues with disk drive space and file uploading.

Cheers!

 

[twistdh]

Another beautiful piece! After alterations it’s much better, congrats!

I don’t understand the Leather quality, seems nice and supple, but the “plasticky” that you write off…is good enough?

 

[jacketjunkie]

I, too, have been down the rabbit hole searching for off-the-radar unknown high value for the money brands, trying out different Far East brands, trying out the European vintage market, affordable thick leather stuff like Natal, all that..

The result?

You do find some well made stuff for little money here and there and that might be great for people new into leather jackets who just want something durable for little money but if you already own the real deal, you will end up never wearing these bargain finds.. see.. a Toyota Corolla is a great durable car, a real bargain, but what's the point in buying a dozen used Corollas, each of them a bargain, when you already have a selection of Audi, BMW and Mercedes in your stall.. like what's the point of making these bargains? They just dust, as did said jackets, because you will always end up grabbing the Vanson, the Langlitz, the Lost Worlds, the Eastman, the Johnson Leather, etc.. those may not have been bargains, but they are still the nicer jackets, so why take out some second grade quality jacket, no matter how much bang it was for the buck? So I gifted away all my Chevignons, my 5-Stars, my Natal, my various other no-names (some literally rotted in my basement too) and quit that chapter.

All that being said, the jacket you presented here may also be one of the bang for the buck finds, but I am curious to see how often you will grab for it when it is hanging next to these awesome Vansons you own. Either way, very informative thread for a newcomer looking for an entry jacket!

 

[TartuWolf]

Seems like they fixed the file uploading.

 

[TartuWolf]

Another beautiful piece! After alterations it’s much better, congrats!

I don’t understand the Leather quality, seems nice and supple, but the “plasticky” that you write off…is good enough?

I'm also very happy with the alterations. Some random no-name chinese jacket feels more "mine" after these adjustments.
I think the leather is pretty good, you can see it better from the back close up. Well the finish feels a bit "unnaturally" smooth and uniform, which gives it a slightly plasticky feel. It is very much mid-weight leaning more towards heavy-weight. For example the RW supposedly 1.5mm steer felt much less substantial than this. This thing stands on it's own for now. The back pannels obviously help a lot with the structure in that regard.

I, too, have been down the rabbit hole searching for off-the-radar unknown high value for the money brands, trying out different Far East brands, trying out the European vintage market, affordable thick leather stuff like Natal, all that..

The result?

You do find some well made stuff for little money here and there and that might be great for people new into leather jackets who just want something durable for little money but if you already own the real deal, you will end up never wearing these bargain finds.. see.. a Toyota Corolla is a great durable car, a real bargain, but what's the point in buying a dozen used Corollas, each of them a bargain, when you already have a selection of Audi, BMW and Mercedes in your stall.. like what's the point of making these bargains? They just dust, as did said jackets, because you will always end up grabbing the Vanson, the Langlitz, the Lost Worlds, the Eastman, the Johnson Leather, etc.. those may not have been bargains, but they are still the nicer jackets, so why take out some second grade quality jacket, no matter how much bang it was for the buck? So I gifted away all my Chevignons, my 5-Stars, my Natal, my various other no-names (some literally rotted in my basement too) and quit that chapter.

All that being said, the jacket you presented here may also be one of the bang for the buck finds, but I am curious to see how often you will grab for it when it is hanging next to these awesome Vansons you own. Either way, very informative thread for a newcomer looking for an entry jacket!

I know what you mean, but I do enjoy this experimenting quite a bit. And it's a lot of jacket for the money. It's also different enough from my other jackets to find it's place in my rotation.
I'm at 1 brown aviator (Aero Hooch Hauler), 1 black aviator (this jacket), 1 brown CR (Vanson Octagon B), 1 black cross zip (Vanson E), 1 black Levis type 3 (Vanson DJCB), 1 brown car coat (y2 lc-15) and 1 brown peacoat (Vanson Octagon Remington) at the moment.