after having looked at so much 20s imagery over the last two-three years the shoulders on some of these jackets look distractingly wide to me (images 1 and 9 especially).
what about this one ?
the pleats don't go into the pocket, so it must either have an all-round waist seam beneath the loose belt, or just cut from the pleat to the side seam:
Q, that would seem to be the only way to avoid that seam. thanks !
p.s. i don't suppose you've got any vintage patterns of something similar (the pleats i mean, not the whole jacket ) ?
dh66, thanks !
i'm pretty sure these are inverse pleats which fold inward. here's something similar, but not identical:
... these are trapped beneath the belt.
Norfolk straps are easier... you can just sew them onto the outside as you suggest.
does anyone know what happens on the outer side of the pocket with this type of pleat-front-into-pocket-welt arrangement ?
i'm assuming there must be a visible slash somewhere emerging from the pocket on the outer side, which we can't see ?
remember the 'Broadway Jazz model' from 1926... a latter day version of the jazz suit, still with close-set buttons but now with wide trousers ?
... well it's still hanging in there in Sears 1928-9, looking even more incongruous.
the proportions have been normalised somewhat, but you can now...
the shoulders are actually quite narrow for an overcoat, though the sleeves are a bit long for me.
p.s. it was an Austin Reed teddy coat that fetched £20k a couple of years ago at auction, though it why it fetched that amount remains a mystery...
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