I think he meant (my recollection) a hit or miss situation with LW Japan, with samples floating around that were of inferior quality. I also had a LW suede trucker out of the Japanese line which was built like a tank. But I would hesitate now to buy LW from there.
Another shot of the Spiegel, this one from same time last year. It was cold that day, so I was trying to layer to cover my kidneys, lol. Trouble with those 50s cross-zips is that below -5C the cold wind can be too much sometimes. Love it anyway.
I think Stuart explicitly said that the private label/made for Japan stuff is inferior quality. I think he got fed up with cost constraints that working for private label entails, and ditched that business model, which allowed him to focus on quality.
I loved jackets since I was about 15. Started with an M-65 and a Navy olive drab duffel bag. Trying to shove it in the Communist's faces in Iron Curtain Poland. It was a statement, rebellion at that time. Am 66 now. Not trying to shove it into anybody's face anymore, and no M-65, but still kind...
Yes, the shoulders look like they could be ever so slightly more filled in the area of the shoulder seam, but the overall fit looks very good. I'd say you're good to go. A size smaller might be too tight.
I love these slanted chest pockets. Passaic took them to extreme; almost vertical. My Bates has them slanted as well, more like @KBlake 's Herm's. The Herm's CR I saw had epaulets, which I was not crazy about. This one is a cross between Bates and HD Sportster - a good looking child!
LW thread or stitching are not the hill I would die on.
If you are in a failure prevention state of mind, focus on the zipper. NOS Crown, while quite expensive, is so reliable, cool and rare, that I, a card-carrying cheapskate, would not hesitate to spend major coin on.
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