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Main differences between 30's & early 40's suits and the rest out there?
Hmm. The lapels are obvious, but peak lapels will always have more belly and a bit more width, especially in a dinner jacket. The movement, well I don't really know what you mean. The armholes are identical if not slightly higher in the modern suit, and the extra bit of drape in the chest... -
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Main differences between 30's & early 40's suits and the rest out there?
I posted this in response to a similar question on another forum. These two were made 75 years apart at the same tailor shop. I think that the average custom made suit has not changed that much at all, at least in the jacket. The pants have, as have RTW suits, but you do need to be careful... -
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Button-Down Collars with Suits
As we spoke about some time back, I had a couple of shirts made up like this. I have found that I really like them, although I have not put one on with a DB suit. I had planned on white only, but also had a blue stripe done that came out very well. Have you gotten around to ordering one up... -
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Styles of hat by country
Jeez. Rough crowd. I meant more for fedora style hats. For example, Trilby styles were common in England but less so in the US. I have no idea as far as Italy. I was looking for some rough guidelines as to what was worn where when, but dealing basically with snap brims. -
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Styles of hat by country
I was reading a post by Dr. Bresch where he categorized a hat as "a typically American" style. I was wondering if anybody can give some guidelines as to what countries are known for what hat styles and proportions. I am talking traditionally, and not necessarily todays production... -
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Traveling With your Suit 1952
Well, there is much to be said for a lot on that list. I am not sure that I subscribe in full, but one shouldn't throw the baby out with the bathwater. -
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Traveling With your Suit 1952
I travel semi-constantly and never have any problems with wrinkles or losing creases. I would not say that the pictured way of folding is the most effective. My suggestion is as follows: 1. Hold the jacket up by the middle of the collar and pull both shoulders backwards so that they are... -
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Summer Suit - High Twist Wool (From Sartorialist)
The posts don't go on the site without him reviewing them first. That is why there are so few negatives even when you see the atrocious outfits Vacca and Co. put on each day. -
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Summer Suit - High Twist Wool (From Sartorialist)
Since the Sartorialist did not post my comment about that suit, I will summarize it here. That suit is so wrong in so many ways. The fabric is nice but everything else about it looks off to me. It even looks like one pocket is a bit higher than the other. As I understand it high... -
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Dinner Suits Formal Attire etc
Fresco is not really appropriate for a tuxedo or whatever else you might want to call it. The best material is probably wool and mohair followed by pure wool. Fresco is not a dressy enough fabric. -
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Spectator Shoes
I have two pairs. One is a twill and brown leather wingtip style and the other is a derby style that is white buck and brown leather. The second is new and pictured on AAAC right now. I wear them with linen pants or sometimes a summer suit to whatever establishment is unlucky enough to have...- iammatt
- Post #153
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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Antongiavanni Article on Super Wool
You guys ought not get too carried away with the hatred of lighter wools. There are plenty that are very good in the 10 or so ounce range and plenty of good wools with a nice soft hand that are not tissue paper like. To exclude so much based on not wanting a certain mark on it is as inane as... -
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Antongiavanni Article on Super Wool
The stock in there is really quite amazing. Much of what is left is sportcoat length, but some is very interesting. There are some excellent suitings dating back more to the 50s, 60s and 70s that are also wonderful. -
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Keyhole buttonholes on lapel
God no! And I am sure he would not have listened to my opinion if I had wanted to give it (which I did not). I did look at the buttonholes on other coats before ever ordering. Like everybody else (I imagine) my own preferences are informed by what I am used to. -
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Keyhole buttonholes on lapel
That is fine, but the "fear" of a keyhole on the lapel comes historically from the fact that tailors switched to a straight hole once jackets no longer were buttoned up to the top and the availability of two different punch cuts signified a more expensive suit... or something like that. I like... -
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Keyhole buttonholes on lapel
No, a lot of keyholes are made by hand. It is usually only the people who are accustomed to cheap suits who fear a keyhole for this reason. Both straight and keyhole can be made by hand or machine. -
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Keyhole buttonholes on lapel
It is a strange fetish of his that has been going on for awhile. There are many non German suitmakers who use keyhole lapel buttonholes including many who do much finer work that what you will find on Savile Row. While RTW "Neapolitan" jackets generally have straight lapel buttonholes, all... -
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Better fit
This is, to me, an instructive photograph on how sometimes things really stay the same. Pictured is a dinner jacket made in 1934, and a blue blazer made in 2006 both by the same tailor shop. The blazer was made for me, and the dinner jacket for somebody close to my size. I am wearing both... -
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Better fit
FWIW, my suit coats are all about an inch past my shoulder bone and my sportcoats are a little further... call it 3 cm.
