Summer Suit - High Twist Wool (From Sartorialist)

[scotrace]

This is from The Sartorialist. The suit is not cotton, but rather a high twist wool. Note the patch pockets. Can anyone tell us more about "high twist wool?" (eek that tie)

 

[Zemke Fan]

No, but, I know someone...

who can tell you ALL ABOUT the tie knot!

 

[slicedbread]

Is high twist wool not a similar phrase to "super (insert large number here's"???

 

[The real Henry]

What ever this kind of fabric is, that suit is great!


Regards,
Henrik

 

[Jovan]

I'm really not sure, but I like the suit.

 

[manton]

It's not a super, or not necessarily. It's how the yarn is made.

You make yarn by spinning together a mass of individual fibers (that have been combed, washed, carded, etc. but that's another story). The fibers themselves are quite fine -- much too fine to be woven into cloth. The yarns can be.

How tautly the fibers are twisted in the spinning process affects how the finished cloth performs. Basically, taut spinning enables stronger yarns, which can then be woven into lighter weight cloth that performs (more or less) like its heavier cousins. This high twist is a summer favorite, and also it's a way to appeal to the mass of men who don't like heavy weights but also don't like wrinkles and want some drape.

The quality of fiber has to be pretty good, with good crimp and length, for this to work. Otherwise it just breaks in the spinning process, or else pills later on. Also, the spinning has to be done very carefully or else the yarn doubles back on itself. This is in fact what crepe is, yarn that has been deliberately overspun. Not only do you then get that nubby texture, but all the tautness is gone, and the resulting cloth is super soft and pliant. Some designers love it, but it's not for everyone.

Here is a picture of a 9 ounce high twist suit I recently picked up; hangs like 14/15, but it's wearable in summer:

 

[iammatt]

Since the Sartorialist did not post my comment about that suit, I will summarize it here.

That suit is so wrong in so many ways. The fabric is nice but everything else about it looks off to me. It even looks like one pocket is a bit higher than the other.

As I understand it high twist adds a lot of strength as well. Most frescos and hopsacks fall into this catagory.

 

[herringbonekid]

thanks Manton for a very informative post.

where does worsted fabric fit on the spin-scale ?

 

[manton]

where does worsted fabric fit on the spin-scale ?

Anywhere. High twist is just a type of worsted. So is crepe, plain weave, gabardine, etc.

 

[herringbonekid]

so what is distinctive about worsted ?

 

[Tomasso]

A few years ago Dunhill offered a RTW line called the Traveller, which they touted as wrinkle-proof; IIRC, it was made from high twist wool.

 

[Dinerman]

Nice suit. I like the 4 button/patch pocket thing. Monster tie knot.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

who can tell you ALL ABOUT the tie knot!

Ah yes, the elusive and mysterious DOUBLE WINDSOR!

I can tell from the size and from having encountered its like before.

 

[manton]

so what is distinctive about worsted ?

Nothing at all. It is the most common type of suiting by far.

 

[Tomasso]

Since the Sartorialist did not post my comment about that suit, I will summarize it here.

Does Scott edit his blog for negative posts?

 

[GBR]

Does Scott edit his blog for negative posts?

I have always believed this - the trouble with a few blog are that they are about the author;s vanity NOT reality.

 

[iammatt]

Does Scott edit his blog for negative posts?

The posts don't go on the site without him reviewing them first. That is why there are so few negatives even when you see the atrocious outfits Vacca and Co. put on each day.

 

[herringbonekid]

that's not fair. He alllows quite a few constructive pieces of criticism on there. since the people in the photos will very likely be viewing the blog i think it is polite to edit out anything rude. a comments page full of unmoderated abuse would just become ugly.

 

[jake_fink]

I haven't figured out why anyone, blog or newspaper, would allow unedited comments and "feedback" to appear. Much of what is contributed to feedback forums that are unedited/unmoderated is unconstructive and idiotic. I couldn't care less what 90% of the general public have to say about any given thing, but if I'm looking at the Sartorialist, I obviously have some interest in what he sees and says. Let him edit and let's hope he retains some objectivity in doing so.

Having said that, I can't say I'm feeling anything for the suit on display. It looks very late 60s/early 70s Peacock revolution chic to me, like something Bob Evans would have worn. It needs a feathery hair-do to cap it.

I also don't know how a higher twist count makes the fabric cooler; is it just that the higher twist means a stronger more durable fabric that drapes like something heavier but without the extra weight, or is the twist something that is not necessarily related to the seasonality of the fabric/garment?

 

[manton]

I also don't know how a higher twist count makes the fabric cooler; is it just that the higher twist means a stronger more durable fabric that drapes like something heavier but without the extra weight, or is the twist something that is not necessarily related to the seasonality of the fabric/garment?

Since high twist yarn is stronger, you can use less of it in the weave, especially in the fill, so that the resulting cloths is more porous and breathable.