Rugged West - custom Rugged Rider 3.0 (Buco J-24 inspired) - Initial impressions / review

[Edward]

It's interesting how price points vary, which definitely impacts value considerations. My local Schott supplier here in East London is charging GBP1,425 (about a ton more than most Aero jackets now) for a stock 618, which I fear takes Schott far, far beyond what they are worth to me personally -others' mileage may vary of course. US internal prices are I'm sure much more reasonable; I know the last Schott I looked at from the US was a 740N wool peacoat, which over there was the equivalent of about GBP400; again, local London suppliers are charging just shy of GBP700. Vanson used to be a good option here, but if you can find them they're also very expensive now (Was a time they were about £400, and a Schott £500, but that was fifteen years ago...).

I'm keeping an eye on Rugged West as I like their designs, though at the minute it seems my most likely next mc style jacket will be a GoldTop. Nice alternative to Lewis for that "British"/"English" take on the classic lancer front mc jacket, but about a third of the price of a Lightning. Gonig forward, I expect that my big-money leather purchases will be more in the halfbelt side of things than mc styles. Though that said, the Aero Elvis model always called to me, if they'd still be prepared to make one (I see it's one of the designs that has slipped off the website).

 

[Edward]

Nice review. I wish Leilah the best, but I really think she should focus on refining her current line before making the jump to the $2k price point. Rugged West still has a lot to learn and plenty of room to grow. Mistakes are part of the process, but if you try to scale too quickly- or step into the ring with brands like FL, Thedi, and Himel, there’s a real risk to your reputation if the kinks in the more moderately priced line haven’t been worked out first

Is that the plan? Uhm. TBH, I'd be disappointed if they go that way. Good luck to them and everything, but I can't help but wonder whether there's more of an opening for this still in the mid-price range than what has long seemed to me to be a fairly crowded niche marketplace among the big money brands with which we are familiar in these parts.

 

[Zoro]

Is that the plan? Uhm. TBH, I'd be disappointed if they go that way. Good luck to them and everything, but I can't help but wonder whether there's more of an opening for this still in the mid-price range than what has long seemed to me to be a fairly crowded niche marketplace among the big money brands with which we are familiar in these parts.

Yep - https://ruggedwest.co/pages/olympia-by-rugged-west

OLYMPIA COLLECTION
Born from years of collecting and dissecting original vintage jackets, the Olympia line exists to honour the golden era of American outerwear - from the clean, cropped utility of the 1930s to the rebellious silhouettes of the 1960s. Every jacket begins with a pattern - drafted, reworked, and refined by hand - true to its time and uncompromised by modern trends.

Each season, I’ll be releasing a limited selection of rare leathers sourced from some of the finest tanneries in the world. These are not catalogue hides. They’re small-batch, sought-after, and chosen for their grain, density, and ageing potential. Once they’re gone, they’re gone. No reruns, no restocks.

I work personally with every Olympia customer to create a jacket that fits both the wearer and the era - whether it’s a 1930s half-belt, a classic aviator, or a stripped-back café racer. Each piece is made in London in small numbers, with a focus on slow, deliberate craftsmanship and absolute historical integrity.

Olympia isn’t about branding. It’s about reviving a forgotten standard.

This is my tribute to the craftsmen, outlaws, and workers who wore these jackets the first time around - and to those who still carry that same spirit today.

As per this IG post, starting at 1350 GBP.

 

[cbez]

Definitely losing money making a custom jacket for 750 in the UK for a customer that wants a ton of communication.

Oh you paid more for custom. How much total?

 

[TartuWolf]

My local Schott supplier here in East London is charging GBP1,425 (about a ton more than most Aero jackets now) for a stock 618

I am shocked that anyone would pay GBP1,425 for a Schott 618.

Aero Elvis model always called to me

A mate in Helsinki has one and it has one of the strangest patterns / cuts that I've ever seen.
Don't know if it simply does not work for his body, but looks horrendous on him.

I can't help but wonder whether there's more of an opening for this still in the mid-price range

Same feeling here. The only real competitor for RW at the lower price range is Master Supply. While in the premium tier the competition is fierce.

@cbez Won't disclose, sorry. Doesn't matter as you can't order one anymore anyway. As @Zoro mentioned now you'd have to shell out over 1350gbp for a custom RW.

 

[Edward]

Yep - https://ruggedwest.co/pages/olympia-by-rugged-west



As per this IG post, starting at 1350 GBP.

Ah... I see they're manufacturing in London. That makes sense of the price shift, as well as clearly wanting to reposition in the market.

Definitely losing money making a custom jacket for 750 in the UK for a customer that wants a ton of communication.

Oh you paid more for custom. How much total?

Were they always made in London? I thought they were doing the measuring and ordering here, but doing the actual manufacture elsewhere. I quite likely picked that up wrong, though. I wonder if we'll ever see anyone try a mixed model, with stock jackets made overseas and custom made locally? I do remember reading about one of the big names trying that way back in the late 80s with a run put together in India, but they decided they weren't happy with the arrangement. I can see a danger in creating your own cheaper competitor that ends up undercutting your flagship.

I am shocked that anyone would pay GBP1,425 for a Schott 618.

All I can say for sure is that's what they want to charge, but it's been that way on their website/ in the shop for sometime, so somebody must be paying it. I like my 618 very much, but that is orders of magnitude beyond what I'd be prepared to pay for it as a product, tbh.

A mate in Helsinki has one and it has one of the strangest patterns / cuts that I've ever seen.
Don't know if it simply does not work for his body, but looks horrendous on him.
View attachment 724691
View attachment 724692

Hard to know. That's an earlier version of it; some years ago they tweaked the pattern again, particularly removing the studded coin pocket on the from of the D when higher resolution copies of the classic shots of Elvis wearing his in 56 came to light, showing it didn't have that detail.

This one looks like it sits a little oddly on the wearer on the front (though the shirt poking out below doesn't do it any favours, tbh). The back does look very much like how they were worn in the early 50s, though - room to move and layer in the body, nipped in at the waist to seal the heat in when riding (and, if needs be, to try and stop it pulling off the body in the event of an off, which would lose the protective purpose of the leather). I've become quite the fan of the shiny brass against black leather in recent years, though, as distinct from the chrome on the MCs I've owned to date.

Same feeling here. The only real competitor for RW at the lower price range is Master Supply. While in the premium tier the competition is fierce.

Same reason it's a shame Hercules Leathers never got off the ground (Covid pulled the rug rom under them, afaik). Aside from basic affordability, there are some styles I'd buy at the 'budget' level but wouldn't get the wear out of to justify the premium price if I had it. More likely to experiment with a different style at a mid-price range...

 

[TartuWolf]

Were they always made in London?

Initially made totally in Pakistan. Later in made in Pakistan and finishing touches in UK (at least for custom). Now custom in fully made in UK as far as I understand (at least my jacket according to Leilah). Soon everything made only in UK (as far I have heard).

so somebody must be paying it

That's the punch line with all of this stuff - if there is enough demand then supply can more or less get away with ludicrous pricing. The RW premium line might sound overly expensive but if there is enough demand.. Go ham!

I've become quite the fan of the shiny brass against black leather in recent years

I'm a huge fan of black on brass. Overall I dislike nickel combined with anything. Copper or brass for me, thank you.

More likely to experiment with a different style at a mid-price range

That's exactly why folks find the Chinese stuff so appealing - try a new style without breaking the bank, look at higher end versions of the same style if it really works out. Cheap experimentation.

 

[herculance]

Man that is some jet black leather! Curious to see how it ages.
Solid review @TartuWolf and wow that was very thorough and informative, really enjoyed reading it.
That inconsistent thread tension gives me a bit of anxiety, it's also present in my RW jacket but only on a few areas. So far no problems but will wait to see this next season after more regular wear.

If I understood correctly, the stock jackets are made in Pakistan, and the custom ones are made in London.
Agreed, this move to higher tier is a bold move. With your review, seems like the London team still has room for improvement, I wonder if Leilah would supplement her team with more experienced makers to level it up.

I do hope Leilah keeps the affordable line going for people who are averse to used. But I've been seeing that the prevailing sentiment is that a second-hand Vanson is king for this budget range.

 

[TartuWolf]

Thank you for your positives words @herculance !

I have no idea how bad/dangerous is the sketchy thread tension in some spots long term. But I'm sure Leilah will sort me out down the road if something happens in those areas.

Yes, seems like even the London team has room to grow in terms of quality as this would be much less acceptable on a 1300gbp+ jacket. On the other hand she appreciates the review and took pointers as far as I understand. She always seems to be positive about getting the most out of constructing criticism - she will get far with that attitude.

I also hope that she keeps the "budget" line going, especially for the ladies. Second hand Vanson is (for me) the undisputed king of value. They go for 200-500usd usually, way bellow this 750$ line while being of noticeably higher quality (despite being a bit more crude/blunt in nature).

 

[Zoro]

seems like even the London team has room to grow in terms of quality as this would be much less acceptable on a 1300gbp+ jacket

I spent a bit reading an old thread that got revived the other day and this reminded me of a comment from it:

I don 't understand why it would be acceptable on a $1K jacket. Where is the scale that determines when a failure in a core artisanal skill is ok? I wouldn't accept it on a $600 Vanson. This level of stitching on a 5* jacket would get a "this is why we don't buy cheap jackets" comment, surely?

I don't particularly have an answer, but this is certainly a point.

 

[ton312]

Oh I didn’t mean to say the riri zips are cheap! Anything but. I was referring to the *****e style snaps! Little finishes like that go a long way imo and even a pack of dritz heavy duty snaps is only about $9 for a dozen.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Excellent review.
I think this might be the most in-depth review I've seen here on TFL. And I've seen someone literally put Leather under a microscope

 

[TartuWolf]

Excellent review.
I think this might be the most in-depth review I've seen here on TFL. And I've seen someone literally put Leather under a microscope

Thank you for your kind words! Yes I remember that member and thread

 

[Edward]

Initially made totally in Pakistan. Later in made in Pakistan and finishing touches in UK (at least for custom). Now custom in fully made in UK as far as I understand (at least my jacket according to Leilah). Soon everything made only in UK (as far I have heard).

Ah, thanks. Yes, that makes sense. Shifting production to the UK alone as an only-change is going to markedly raise labour costs, so it's logical it would come up to the premium price. The only fully UK made place I'm aware of that's in the low / mid range pricing is Wested. I suspect they keep the costs down in other ways. Their leathers are perfectly fine, but not as lovely as the likes of what Aero, Eastman, et al use, and I suspect their hardwear - although, again, perfectly functional - is cheaper enough than the vintage repro level the big money makers use for that sort of thing to make a difference. I suspect they probably get bulk sales on some lines (the Indy stuff especially) from the cosplay market - and they're making in bulk. The lighter hides they tend to use are likely easier and so faster to work with.... whole different business model. Their retail operation was originally a sideline to the main business of making for wardrobe departments in the film and TV industry. As well as the Indy jacket, they've made a few things for a lot of other films and TV (though I've noticed in the past the retail version of the jackets they made originally - like the Indy jacket - are orders of magnitude superior to the ones they didn't but just sell their own version of. The Captain America (the original was a modified Aero Bootlegger) very much case in point. It's be interesting to know whether the retail operation remains a sideline to the industry work, or if it has proportionately taken over or equalled the original line of business. Shame Wested closed the shop and went online only after Peter Botwright died, but I expect that's just the nature of the business these days.

None of which is intended as a criticsm of Wested, to be clear - just a different business model. I've always very much enjoyed their Indy jackets (I foresee a few more in my future - maybe even, if they'd do it in a hide other than the lamb, a Dial jacket with the repaired ******-hole.).

That's the punch line with all of this stuff - if there is enough demand then supply can more or less get away with ludicrous pricing. The RW premium line might sound overly expensive but if there is enough demand.. Go ham!

I'm a huge fan of black on brass. Overall I dislike nickel combined with anything. Copper or brass for me, thank you.

Copper is an interesting choice. I've only seen it in person on some ladies' fashion jackets, but I think it would look superb on a black mc jacket, or maybe a halfbelt in the right shade of brown - dark, for contrast, but with a reddish undertone to it. I'm sort of surprised we've not seen it experimented with more obviously by some of the more fashion-forward end of the heritage leather market; makes sense we wouldn't see it from those going for specific reproductions, or designs that aren't direct repops of specific models, but are made within the parameters of the design aesthetics and techniques of a certain period.

That's exactly why folks find the Chinese stuff so appealing - try a new style without breaking the bank, look at higher end versions of the same style if it really works out. Cheap experimentation.

There's certainly that. Of course there will also always be those who can't justify a more expensive version - or simply can't afford it at all. I can see that market perhaps being bigger at times, though more prone to fluctuation with fashion.

If I got an 'affordable' deal, though, there are definitely one or two styles I'd experiment with. Primarily a leather peacoat. Half an eye on Wested's dasboot / Doctor Who model; might have pulled the trigger by now if I could have tried one in person in a store. It looks good in the browns... wouldn't dare order one in black, though. I mean a black leather peacoat very much appeals, but having never seen one in the wild, the hide Wested are using I can't quite tell from their stock photos whether it's one I'd like or not. When I can afford it, though, a black Aero Rockerfella (most probably goat) I will go all out for...

I do hope Leilah keeps the affordable line going for people who are averse to used. But I've been seeing that the prevailing sentiment is that a second-hand Vanson is king for this budget range.

Vansons certainly have a great reputation. Much of their line is significantly too modern for my tastes, but they have some very nice heritage stuff. I like the quite plain, zip-up vest if I thought I'd ever wear it. The jacket seem to sell in and around the GTBP400-500 mark on eBay, though they don't crop up so much over here. To be fair, I mostly restrict my eBay searches to the UK since the price of shipping most items from the US rose exponentially a couple of years ago.

 

[Pandemic]

Excellent review! This should be a sticky on the forum or published on a blog somewhere. Bravo!

 

[TartuWolf]

Excellent review! This should be a sticky on the forum or published on a blog somewhere. Bravo!

Thank you sir!

 

[floater]

Great review, cheers!

Btw, I have 4 leather jackets with zipper cuff gussets and they’re all lined, one is a vanson too, and tbh I always thought unlined ones were a cost cutting measure on some entry level models, I could be totally wrong though.

 

[JonS1967]

@TartuWolf , great review! Thanks for putting this comprehensive review together. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it. The jacket looks incredible on you! Congratulations on a great fitting and very handsome jacket.

The RW was a very tempting option when I was looking for my D pocket a months back. Although it wasn’t an easy decision, I’m glad I ponied up a few extra bucks and went for the DH Innovator. The JL was also mighty tempting and I feel would have been an incredible option as well. Someday I’ll get a JL. Thanks again for the great read.?

 

[TartuWolf]

@JonS1967 Glad you enjoyed it.
To be honest this RW is currently the jacket I look least forward to wearing for some reason.
Maybe it's the extra slim sleeves, maybe it's the leather that I'm not too fond of.
Perhaps that will change.
I've handled a single DH Innovator specimen at a store in Helsinki and did not like the leather at all either.
I also almost bought a used DH innovator when I was considering the RW. That may or may not have been a better choice, not sure. It would definitely involve a lot more compromises, that's for sure.
JL is also on my wish/dream list, but I doubt that will ever come to fruition.

 

[JonS1967]

@JonS1967 Glad you enjoyed it.
To be honest this RW is currently the jacket I look least forward to wearing for some reason.
Maybe it's the extra slim sleeves, maybe it's the leather that I'm not too fond of.
Perhaps that will change.
I've handled a single DH Innovator specimen at a store in Helsinki and did not like the leather at all either.
I also almost bought a used DH innovator when I was considering the RW. That may or may not have been a better choice, not sure. It would definitely involve a lot more compromises, that's for sure.
JL is also on my wish/dream list, but I doubt that will ever come to fruition.

Sorry to hear you look forward to wearing the RW the least but I can certainly understand where you’re coming from. Sometimes a jacket just doesn’t inspire and it’s hard to wear when that happens. Perhaps you’ll feel differently at some point.

I’m surprised you didn’t like the leather on the DH. It definitely has that stiff as a board like horsehide thing going out of the box, but it’s also beautiful out of the box. Mine is already breaking in nicely despite the So Cal summer putting a damper on wearing it. I can’t wait to wear it more when it cools off here.

Cheer, Jon