What Sort of Vintage Enthusiast Are You?

[Hemingway Jones]

I thought of this thread over on Rick5150's thread about his new jacket and from discussions with some of the members here. I was wondering what sort of vintage enthusiast you are and why?-From these basic classifications, though feel free to add your own; this is a conversation:

1) Authentic: Everything must be vintage and made in that time period. This person scours eBay and the thrift stores and vintage shops for the perfect suit made in the 1930's. If this person is a size 46L, they are often disappointed. This person might also make sure that everything they are wearing is from the same time period; no mixing the 1930's with the 1950's. This person would dress vintage everyday, if given the chance and, if a time machine were to materialize, they would beg the pilot to take them back to 1939.

2) Vintage Inspired: This person wears modern clothing that seems vintage or has a vintage flair based on how it is put together. This person probably wears a lot of Ralph Lauren suits and leafs through the J. Peterman catalogue hoping that he will copy Cary Grant's gray suit from "N by NW" one day. This person keeps his tailor busy with vintage recreations. If a time machine were to materialize, this person would beg the pilot to go back to 1939 and to buy a select list of stocks, so that they could pay their tailor with the earnings.

3) Vintage Accessorist: Nothing tops a modern suit like a vintage hat. Vintage watches are tops, as well as vintage jewelery for the ladies. If a time machine were to materialize, this person would ask how to build one, then form a joint marketing arrangement with Steve Jobs.

4) Suggested by Vanessa, The Authenitc Reproducers: This person has a library full of vintage patterns, books on vintage clothes, and copies of the old Sears catalogue. This person has trouble finding room for the clothes they make along with all of the fabric they keep on hand to make them. This person takes it to the next level; it is not enough find vintage items, they must also know how to make them. This skill enables them to see something and replicate it to add it to their closet. If a time machine were to materialize, this person would force the pilot to take them to get the perfect sewing machine.


Personally, I am vintage inspired. I have a slight aversion to used clothes and, being a 44L, they are so rarely in my size anyway. I am always trying to replicate something (you should see what I am up to now!) and I frequently find myself saying, "I want a Panama Hat just like Ralph Fiennes in 'The English Patient' or a dinner jacket like Bogart in 'Casablanca.'"

I am a sucker for clever marketing. I need to be restrained when the new Peterman catalogue comes in and, if an ad should mention Hemingway or some other romantic provenance, my credit card come flying out of my pocket!

I have gone on long enough, how about you? How do you feel about it?

 

[BellyTank]

I have no aversion to vintage clothes- they can easily be sanitised.
Just because they're vintage doesn't mean they're somebody else's rubbish'- as you put it. To many they're absolute treasures.

I have vintage clothes from the '20s, '30s and some '40s but my interest is mainly in pre-war attire. I pick up what I can with some lateral shopping.

I will mix old with new but my 'new' is bound to be a repro that I have purchased- repro 1920s Levis or '30s Lees or '30s military rero- I mix military and civilian- some of the more obscure/esoteric military repro gear perhaps.

I don't mix eras so's you'd notice. Non-fashion vintage, e.g. work/military wear is not so decade or season sensitive.

The roblem with newly made clothes is that they just don't cut a vintage look at all and there have been very few exceptions that I have seen and they were only exceptions by being 'closer' than the rest of the modern garbage. In some cases, it's the nuance that makes the vintage style and the modern menswear's nuance is elsewhere.

'Vintage inspired' means almost nothing- it might just mean 'not in fashion'- sounds like catalog blurb. 'Vintage' looks like vintage- is recognizable as vintage- 'vintage inspired' is hot air.


I'm not really matching your categories.

B
T

 

[scotrace]

Vintage Inspired

In part because there's little choice. Wildroot has access to first pickings in an area with more plentiful vintage apparel, but in Ohio, there isn't much to fit a tall man.
Wearing clothing that was probably heavily worn before the great age of daily showers and deoderants also sends me to the "inspired" corner. I have no problem with anyone choosing to wear vintage, and I always go ape over a great vintage piece, but - We DON'T want the funk!
I want to be J. Peterman when I grow up.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

I have no aversion to vintage clothes- they can easily be sanitised.
Just because they're vintage doesn't mean they're somebody else's rubbish'- as you put it. To many they're absolute treasures.

I have vintage clothes from the '20s, '30s and some '40s but my interest is mainly in pre-war attire. I pick up what I can with some lateral shopping.

I will mix old with new but my 'new' is bound to be a repro that I have purchased- repro 1920s Levis or '30s Lees or '30s military rero- I mix military and civilian- some of the more obscure/esoteric military repro gear perhaps.

I don't mix eras so's you'd notice. Non fashion vintage, e.g. work/military wear is not so decade or season sensitive.

The roblem with newly made clothes is that they just don't cut a vintage look at all and there have been very few exceptions that I have seen and they were only exceptions by being closer than the rest of the modern garbage. In some cases, it's the nuance that makes the vintage style and the modern menswear's nuance is elsewhere.

'Vintage inspired' means almost nothing- it might just mean 'not in fashion'- sounds like catalog blurb. 'Vintage' looks like vintage- is recognizable as vintage- 'vintage inspired' is hot air.


I'm not really matching your categories.

B
T

Well, Old Sport, I certainly meant nothing pejorative about my personal aversions of wearing thrift store finds. I know I called them trash in another thread and I regret that choice of words. I think it was harsher than I had intended. You substituted that with rubbish and I won't dispute that, but neither can it be disputed that clothes wouldn't be in a thrift shop if they hadn't been thrown away by someone else or their heirs. Remember, I also catagorized myself as mental, jokingly of course.

So, I think I deserve your criticism in this regard and I should have been more sensative with my choice of words. I meant only to describe my own state of mind and not to cast dispersions on members of this community who do indeed discover the hidden treasures in second hand shops. I have nothing but respect for the folks here and would not want to offend any of them in the least bit. And personally, I have no trouble with vintage accessories and love looking for ties and other treasures, so I understand the quest and how good it feels to find a rare item.

I am learning that there is much to be learned from thrift store finds and they certainly make wonderful templates for vintage recreations.

I am, of course, respectful of those with other opinions. In fact, I live with one. My roommate has closets full of vintage clothes that I am constantly nagging her to take to the dry cleaners, although she has and does regularly. They are beautiful. Many of them have amazing details, but they are very old, obviously and age takes its toll.

I dare say, neither Cary Grant nor Fred Astair would be strolling around in anyone else's trousers! They would have them made for themselves, as I do.

BT, you were a bit dismissive of my "Vintage inspired" catagory, saying that it 'means almost nothing' and 'is hot air,' although I took great pains to write an entire paragraph describing exactly what it means. And, within that was this phrase, "This person keeps his tailor busy with vintage recreations." And I do. I would rather has a suit made to vintage specs than wear an old one. Do you prefer an original to a faithful reproduction?

You see, it puts one in a bit of a quandary; what to do if you are averse to wearing someone else's pants, yet you want that vintage look? Hence, modern recreations, I suppose. I am always impressed with what other people have. The clothes at the QM were amazing!

Scotrace, I think we are of a smiliar mind. In fact, I even thought of how I could start a business of my own along similar lines as J. Peterman.

 

[MK]

Vintage Inspired

I don't have a problem with used clothes....I just don't have the time to hunt. I have been very happy buying vintage lids from Art. I need to find a great source for vintage clothes like I do in hats.

As for the time machine ....... I would borrow it and go myself and bring back goodies. I would even stay awhile....but not forever. I would have to live through the 60's. No thanks.

p.s.
vintage Inspired is a great description.

 

[Vanessa]

Can we add another category for the authentically reproduced? For those of us that make reproductions from original patterns, fabric & trim?

 

[BellyTank]

OK Hemmingway and MK, no hard feelings- I take the 'hot air' jibe back- if you mean more of a faithful facsimile of a vintage style, then that suits me down to the ground.
That way, you get to choose the style and colour/pattern and get the correct size to :kick:.

But using '...inspired' sounds like marketing hype being regurgitated-

If your meaning of it is an exact copy of a vintage garment, then that is a GOOD thing and definitely more than just inspired- it is a copy-

B
T

 

[Hemingway Jones]

As for the time machine ....... I would borrow it and go myself and bring back goodies. I would even stay awhile....but not forever. I would have to live through the 60's. No thanks.

p.s.
vintage Inspired is a great description.

Thanks! Now that is a great use for the time machine. I never thought of taking it shopping!

Cher and I were speaking last night about how this is a good time to be a vintage enthusiast. If we were living in the 1960's, we would really stick out. The same for the 1970's. We would have a bit of a reprieve in the 1980's, but then it would be flannel shirts and T-shirts for the 1990's. In the mid to late 1990's there would be the swing craze. At least now there is a bit more latitude and some of the women's styles coming out of H&M and Target are very reminiscent of Golden Era woman's wear.

As for me, I am old enough not to care so much.

Can we add another category for the authentically reproduced? For those of us that make reproductions from original patterns, fabric & trim?

Absolutely! I would be lost without you! This is the route I am pursuing more and more, and having no sewing skills whatsoever, I am ordering more and more things.

I am so impressed that you can do that for yourself. It must be awesome to see something, then copy it.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

OK Hemmingway and MK, no hard feelings- I take the 'hot air' jibe back- if you mean more of a faithful facsimile of a vintage style, then that suits me down to the ground.
That way, you get to choose the style and colour/pattern and get the correct size to :kick:.

But using '...inspired' sounds like marketing hype being regurgitated-

If your meaning of it is an exact copy of a vintage garment, then that is a GOOD thing and definitely more than just inspired- it is a copy-

B
T

Never any hard feelings, BT. We may disagree without being disagreeable!

 

[Solid Citizen]

Vintage!

As a teen in the mid 1960's attended a very preppy public hs, rep ties, blue blazers, grey flannel slacks, you get the picture. My friends & I bought a lot tweed jackets & camel topcoats from the local hospital thrift shops. There wasn't any stigma in doing this & it was considered cool, so I've never had a problem with buying vintage clothes. If one needs 100% condition in clothes vintage is not the way to go. I really like 1940's clothes, the padded shoulders, the drape of jackets & slacks + the fedoras.

My approach has been first Ebay for as much original 40's things as I can get, Second contemporary stuff that has the "look" of the 40's. Fortunately I've had great success with the former.

One area where I think I've strayed has been the 40's swing ties. Plan to move towards more conservative neckwear Cary Grant/Fred Astaire. Hitchcock never let Cary Grant or Jimmy Stewart wear anything but, dark ties on film so you looked at the whole person. Put on the swingtie you see the tie first ,person & rest of attire second. Hmmmm???

Peter

 

[Vladimir Berkov]

I am probably a mix between options (1) and (2). I like vintage clothes and don't mind the fact that they are used, but I do mind the fact that so many of them are damaged, smelly, the wrong size, the wrong color, etc. I don't like wearing clothes which are in less-than-perfect condition on the street, and in my chosen career I could never wear such clothes at work. If I had a time machine I would go back to 1930 or so and go shopping for all sorts of clothes which of course would be brand new at the time and I could get them in my size in just the cut and color I desire. I would love to go to one of the master tailors around at the time, like Scholte for example, and have him create the perfect suit for me.

 

[IndianaGuybrush]

I'd say I'm largely a Vintage Inspired with a smattering of Authentic.

Given the option between a suit made in 1930 and an exact clone of it made in 2004, I would take the 2004. But the copy has to be exact, including, and this is the most important bit, the material and the cut. I don't just want a suit that looks period, I want it to feel and wear period too. I want those high cut armholes, I want that heavy weight wool and quality stitching. In other words, if I could find a store that was selling the exact same clothes that they would have been selling in the 30s/40s, I don't think I'd ever shop anywhere else.

Now, having this philosophy leaves me with two options. 1: I can buy the nicest quality vintage inspired modern clothes I can find (like that Peterman shooting jacket I have) and fill out my wardrobe with actual vintage clothing in good condition. 2: I can sell some organs and have a wardrobe made to my exact specs. I would have to have all of my clothing made completely bespoke, because there isn't a clothier that ANY of us know of that makes it that way off the rack. I would likely spend several tens of thousands of dollars a year on clothing, because each suit I had made would cost me just ander $5000. And even then, finding the material that I'm after would be difficult, because they just don't make it anymore, or if they do it's in such small quantities that it might as well be impossible to find.

So, between eeking out what vintage and good vintage repro I can, or harvesting hobos so I can collect and sell their organs, I go with the former.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Solid Citizen,
It was said that Hitchcock loved dragging Cary Grant through the dust of that cornfield in "N by NW." It was so against Grant's dapper image.
Do you find it is difficult finding things in your size?

Vladimir Berkov,
We are in complete agreement. I would love to find a suit with the tags still on it; to rest my obsessive mind. That time machine shopping excursion would be fun. There had better be a lot of room in there.

IGB,
$5,000 is a bit of an exaggeration. I know that some master tailors charge that much, but there are other options; Hong Kong tailors, for instance. They'll make anything for you for prices ranging from $800 - $1,200. Perhaps, you should learn to sew!

Wouldn't it be something to find a store that sold items as you described?Perhaps, this is an idea for when you finish law school!

 

[Matt Deckard]

In regard to Hong Kong Tailors... they are some of the best tailors on the planet (they learned from the English tailors when they were the best and kept the skills). Next time I have the cash for a 5,000 suit, i'm flying to H/K and getting 5 $600 3-piece suits and saving the rest of the cash for shoes. I was at the Argyle Hotel one evening and ran into a man wearing a belted back suit. The fit was stunningly perfect. Root will concur. We were arguing over weather or not it was vintage... we kept going back and forth on the subject until I asked.

 

[Lauren]

Both Authentic and The Authenitc Reproducer.

I mix both of these categories.

For collecting purposes, Authentic, for wearing purposes Authentic Reproducer. And with my reproduction I wear mostly authenic accessories and jewelry.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

In regard to Hong Kong Tailors... they are some of the best tailors on the planet (they learned from the English tailors when they were the best and kept the skills). Next time I have the cash for a 5,000 suit, i'm flying to H/K and getting 5 $600 3-piece suits and saving the rest of the cash for shoes. I was at the Argyle Hotel one evening and ran into a man wearing a belted back suit. The fit was stunningly perfect. Root will concur. We were arguing over weather or not it was vintage... we kept going back and forth on the subject until I asked.

Wow! What a great story! Did you get the name of his tailor?

Both Authentic and The Authenitc Reproducer.

I mix both of these categories.

For collecting purposes, Authentic, for wearing purposes Authentic Reproducer. And with my reproduction I wear mostly authenic accessories and jewelry.

And few people put it together as well as you do. You and Dan were quite the couple on the QM.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I'm 1. and 2.

I'd get on that time machine and try to assassinate Hitler and Stalin some time before 1933. Seriously.

I'd also buy a lot of IBM stock.

 

[Quigley Brown]

I dare say, neither Cary Grant nor Fred Astair would be strolling around in anyone else's trousers! They would have them made for themselves, as I do.

Well, these guys were millionaires. They could afford any thing they wanted.

I will never purchase vintage clothing on Ebay (and I've never even seen a Peterman catalog) as I find it too easy. I'm in it for the thrill of the hunt and the reward is finding a look that is original. I really don't understand why so many men want to look like Indiana Jones. I thought those films were made for teenagers.

 

[BellyTank]

Capturing and coveting an essence of an escapist idyl/idol/ideal..?

-many of the Indy fans WERE teenagers back then, when the movie/s came out.

I would not intentionally try to recreate that image- but much of my clothing and the way I combine it would probably be seen as an attempt.
A leather jacket and a hat has become somewhat of a cliche...

B
T

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Well, these guys were millionaires. They could afford any thing they wanted.

I will never purchase vintage clothing on Ebay (and I've never even seen a Peterman catalog) as I find it too easy. I'm in it for the thrill of the hunt and the reward is finding a look that is original. I really don't understand why so many men want to look like Indiana Jones. I thought those films were made for teenagers.

True; Grant and Astair were indeed millionairs and could afford anything they wanted. But, with a little creativity, anyone can get what they want as well. Look at Lauren and Vanessa; I am amazed at what they have put together for themselves with their own skills and creativity. Amazing.

I certainly respect you for "the thrill of the hunt" and indulge in that a bit myself, mostly with vintage accessories and with my book collecting, mostly I scour for 1st edition Hemingways, ergo my screen name.

As for the Indiana Jones look, I have done it, as many here have and its fun. I'll go no deeper than that, for I fear that no answer would really satisfy you, my friend. You question is more of provocation than inquisition and I respect that, often playing the agent provocateur myself.

Personally, I respect anyone who tries something out of the norm. I've seen some pretty wacky outfits around Boston and I shrug and say, "Well, if I can wear a fedora, I suppose they can wear... that!" If that something is out of the Golden Era, then all the better. We need as many vintage enthusiasts, of all stripes, on our side as we can; to patronize the wonderful vendors who support us.

And if we restricted our movie viewing habits to a criterion based on its intended viewing audience or demographic, then I dare say, none of us would be going to "King Kong," or "Superman." And where, my freind, is the fun in that?