Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[The Shirt]

I'll try and photograph tonight - I used the yellow polka dot with a red ribbon.

 

[MJrules]

Taking in the waist

Hi! Can any of you ladies help me out with making the waist smaller on a pattern? It's a one-piece pencil skirt, has lots of darts, a waistband, back zipper, and kick pleat. The hip is great but I'd like to take the waist in about an inch...how would I do this? Also, it's more straight-cut than tapered like the envelope shows...is there a way to taper it if there are no side seams?Thanks so much!

 

[Cherry_Bombb]

Those darts are a great place to take it in at the waist. If the hip is fine where it is, leave the point of the dart location alone. The easiest way to take the waist in a bit more is to put the skirt on inside out. Pinch any extra out of the waist area that you need by grabbing those darts. Don't just pull all the extra ease into one dart, but disburse equally through each of the darts. Otherwise your skirt will be lopsided. Pin each of the darts into place and stitch from the dart point to your pin location. After you've stitched the dart, go back and remove the old stitches.

If you do this in a muslin, then you can take out all of your stitching and mark your darts and whatnot and use the muslin as a pattern from now on.

Also- to make the skirt lay nice and flat when it's on, press your darts in the middle of the gathered fabric so there is equal amount of fabric on each side of the seam created. This lies much flatter than if you pressed your darts towards the center or side seams of the skirt.

Hope this helped!

 

[MJrules]

^ :eusa_doh: Ok, how common sense was that??? Thanks so much Cherry Bombb, that sounds super easy to do!

 

[Cherry_Bombb]

lol- no problem! I have those moments all the time!

 

[Hammelby]

Oh what a dress!

I beg your pardon ladies for intruding, but I have a good question about a dress I saw on this youtubevideo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU9u9Jb36AU

When I decided to post the question in here, I realized that I had entered unkown territory! So offcourse, the man (confused over all theese wonderfull womanese threads) decides to posts in the "Sewing lessons section". :eusa_doh:

But, seriously. This dress is deadly and I would love to have one tailored
for my girl who has a similar shape as the singer.
So my question is: Wich material do you think this is? And do you ladies have a tip, for a pattern that looks like it?

Many thanks, ladies.
- Hammelby

 

[Sunny]

It's a pretty typical last 1930s/early 1940s pattern. I couldn't tell if it had a waist seam or if it was princess-seamed, but it is definitely fitted with a flared skirt. The sleeves are "puffed," but they're not gathered; I think they're shaped with multiple darts. The neckline's a lot lower than most patterns of this period, unless you find an evening gown variation, since that's what this is.

The fabric is something lightweight and drapey, but not floaty. I'd plunk for a crepe weave, since it's not shiny, and probably in rayon. The color is pretty light, probably a blue or green.

 

[Babydoll]

Interesting. It looks like the video is displayed in a mirror. The guitarist is playing opposite-of-"normal", and that could possibly be... but the bass is also playing opposite, and I've never seen that!

Cute dress. Looks like there's a sort of texture to the fabric, almost like a seersucker, but wider.

 

[Snookie]

It's a pretty typical last 1930s/early 1940s pattern. I couldn't tell if it had a waist seam or if it was princess-seamed, but it is definitely fitted with a flared skirt. The sleeves are "puffed," but they're not gathered; I think they're shaped with multiple darts. The neckline's a lot lower than most patterns of this period, unless you find an evening gown variation, since that's what this is.

The fabric is something lightweight and drapey, but not floaty. I'd plunk for a crepe weave, since it's not shiny, and probably in rayon. The color is pretty light, probably a blue or green.

I think your assessment is pretty dead-on. I didn't see a waist seam, either, there might be a empire waist seam (underbust), and then you wouldn't have to have princess seams. I thought the neckline was rather low, too - that's what the dress clip's for, I guess.

I was thinking a nice crepe would be good for this, and rayon would be the best (if you can find it!). Maybe doing the skirt portion on the bias, for extra cling/drape?

As far as patterns, I don't know of any repro patterns that are similar. You might have to search modern patterns for something similar, or search vintage patterns. I'm thinking something like this, cut to knee length, but I can't find any with sleeves. BTW, that website is overpriced.

 

[mrswheats]

Hammelby, to me it looks a lot like this Vogue pattern (V8071), but with sleeves:

This pattern is out of print, but still available on the Vogue website.

 

[Myn]

I'm going to take the risk of posting a live ebay auction here because I found a pattern that looks like Hammelby's dress in some ways. I don't know how to make a copy of just the pattern image so you guys can see what I'm talking about. Sorry, mods, feel free to delete if necessary.
Deleted live ebay link, but PM'd it to Hammelby so he can see what the poster meant

I think if you combined this dress and Swingtimegal's pattern you'd be really darn close.

Take the Vogue pattern's princess lines and move the zipper to the side instead of the back.

Use the ruching on the bodice from the Simplicity pattern, make it a bit more low cut. Take the darts out of the yoke to make a smooth line there and then put on straight sleeves with massive shoulderpads. Oh! look for a 40s dress or blouse pattern to find the sleeves. I've been copying tons of 30s patterns lately and they all have softer sleeves, more drapey than those, so I think it's an early 40s dress.

 

[Lady Day]

Found a vintage pattern review site!

http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page

If its been posted before, sorry.

LD

 

[Cherry_Bombb]

Holy Cow Lady Day!! That site is amazing!!! Thanks for posting it!

 

[The Shirt]

Um - question for you lovely goddesses. I spent yesterday cutting out 2 dress patterns. I woke up this morning and remembered that the first time (only other time) I cut out a pattern I had the right side of the fabric facing in or folded upon itself. Yesterday I had the right sides facing out. Did I completely do the wrong thing? Is this ok? The patterns for the most part are relatively simple.

Sorry - just in a panic now wondering if I should throw the whole pile away.

 

[mrswheats]

Shirt,

It makes no difference how you folded the fabric. When I'm trying to match patterns, I always fold the fabric so the right side is out--it makes it easier to see the print. So if all you did was fold the fabric right side out, there's no reason to panic

 

[The Shirt]

Swingtimegal - I am sending much love and good karma your way. Giant sigh of relief and now I am happy again!

 

[mrswheats]

Aw, shucks

Glad I could help! And I can't wait to see pics in the "show us what you made" thread

 

[Hammelby]

Hammelby, to me it looks a lot like this Vogue pattern (V8071), but with sleeves:

This pattern is out of print, but still available on the Vogue website.

Thank you Myn & Swiiiingtimegal!
I got the link on PM but.. unfortunately i was offline sunday so
I missed that auction. :cry:

Oh, well. Now I know at least what to look out for!
Much obliged!

 

[Sunny]

Thank you Myn & Swiiiingtimegal!
I got the link on PM but.. unfortunately i was offline sunday so
I missed that auction. :cry:

Oh, well. Now I know at least what to look out for!
Much obliged!

The Vogue pattern does have the overall look right. It's designed for slim-hipped girls, though, and doesn't emphasize the waist as in the 1940s and the video. It'll need some tweaking and fitting, otherwise you'll just have a flowy gown instead of a flirty frock.

Also, doing the sleeves will be very tricky with that base. There don't seem to be any shoulders at all on it; there are either separate straps or the floaty cape-style "sleeves". For a real 1940s look, the bodice really does need a complete back and front, with armholes for the sleeves.

Here are a couple suggestions. None are exact, but they're reasonably close with tweaking.

 

[Lady Day]

I cut out a pattern I had the right side of the fabric facing in or folded upon itself. Yesterday I had the right sides facing out. Did I completely do the wrong thing? Is this ok? The patterns for the most part are relatively simple.

As long as the fabric is right sides touching or wrong sides touching, you are fine. Now a right/wrong touching, youll have two of the same pieces. Thats the not good part

LD