Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[The Shirt]

Thanks LD. I am so very new at this. As much as I try to scan the directions, it often seems greek to me. My new mantra - is "My sewing machine cannot bite me, cannot laugh at me and cannot give me dirty looks. I may think it's mocking me - but it's all in my head."

 

[deadpandiva]

Thanks LD. I am so very new at this. As much as I try to scan the directions, it often seems greek to me. My new mantra - is "My sewing machine cannot bite me, cannot laugh at me and cannot give me dirty looks. I may think it's mocking me - but it's all in my head."

Soon I'll be asking you for sewing advice.

 

[Lady Day]

Oh I read directions about 8 bigillion times and still mess up. When I was learning, it was on my own with vintage patterns :eusa_doh: This place helped tons!

I lost many a garment to my own lack of not asking.

Now that I stop and pay attention to the small things (most of the time) I get it. Practice, practice, mess up, mess up, practice and so on

LD

 

[Idledame]

for Hammelby- this pattern is available in only one size and the neckline is wrong but it has sort of the same shape. at evadress.com

 

[pennyseranade]

Thanks LD. I am so very new at this. As much as I try to scan the directions, it often seems greek to me. My new mantra - is "My sewing machine cannot bite me, cannot laugh at me and cannot give me dirty looks. I may think it's mocking me - but it's all in my head."

Don't let it fool you...mine points, laughs and mocks me!lol lol lol
(It doesn't bite though)

 

[deadpandiva]

I started a a dress yesterday. I added an extra pleat to make it maller in the waist but keep the hip roomy. It looked fine and I sewed the two front pieces together. My sewing was suprisingly straight because when I ironed it you couldn't even see that front seem. The only problem is that sewed the pieces together on the wrong side. :eusa_doh: If I can't fix it with the seam ripper I guess I'll just tweek it and it may fit my sister. It is a simple pattern even though there are many pieces.

 

[Hammelby]

Sunny & idledame:

Gee thank you both for the ideas! Happy again!
Its of to evadress then, and to the fabric shops

 

[Idledame]

This is an interesting blog from Evadress - a bit about grading patterns, thoughts about the origins of pattern perforations and some new patterns coming to Evadress. Don't mean to sound like a commercial-I'm just on their e-mail list now.
http://www.evadress.blogspot.com/

 

[KittyT]

Elasticized panels?

Hello ladies, I need some help. I have a dress with 2 elasticized panels in the back (you know, like the kind on the Whirling Turban or 50s hawaiian sarong dresses) and the stretch is gone out of one side.

How difficult is this to fix? I asked my mom and she told me not to bother, that it was too difficult, and also mentioned that it wouldn't be worth it to take it to a seamstress. Can I have your opinion? Have you ever sewn a panel like this? Is it really that difficult? I have found no instructions online. Is it something that a seamstress wouldn't want to do or that would be very costly for a good seamstress to take care of?

 

[Joie DeVive]

Hello ladies, I need some help. I have a dress with 2 elasticized panels in the back (you know, like the kind on the Whirling Turban or 50s hawaiian sarong dresses) and the stretch is gone out of one side.

Are the panels elasticized smocking? Stretchy with kind of an diamond pattern?

If so, it's not an easy fix, but I don't see why a seamstress couldn't do it. I've never asked one to though, so [huh]....

 

[KittyT]

Are the panels elasticized smocking? Stretchy with kind of an diamond pattern?

If so, it's not an easy fix, but I don't see why a seamstress couldn't do it. I've never asked one to though, so [huh]....

No, they are plain rows of elastic, like this:

 

[Snookie]

No, they are plain rows of elastic, like this:

That's not a very easy fix, but I'm sure it's possible. It's definitely a job for a seamstress, not your local drycleaner. I've never done it myself, but I have a book that describes doing elastic shirring, and I think the trickiest part would be getting the elastic tension right, plus I think you need a special foot.

I say, no harm in running by a seamstress, if the price is too high you don't have to do it. If you want to give it a try yourself, let me know and I'll get you/direct you to the how-to info.

 

[Mary]

How to get the correct measurements

I've tried to measure my body so I know what size to order. But I'm still uncertian about how to measure. Let's start with my bust.

When I breath it changes a little and still I think I measure 85 cm /33,46 inches. But if I make my bust as big as possible it's 89. I really never do that, but which is the correct measurement? Does a pattern have room for that?

It's the same with my waist. It's 66 cm/ 26 iches but can be as big as 70. cm. And am I right that the waist is the thinest place on your tummy. Some websites say it just above your hipbones but it is way higher on me.

The patterns should be made for breathing people shouldn't they? So they have calculated with that or should I calculate with the extra space I need?

M

 

[KittyT]

When I breath it changes a little and still I think I measure 85 cm /33,46 inches. But if I make my bust as big as possible it's 89. I really never do that, but which is the correct measurement? Does a pattern have room for that?

Patterns usually tell you the measurements you should have for a particular size, and also the finished garment measurements, which usually leave a couple of inches for comfort. If you're buying a garment, take your normal, at east bust measurement and add an inch or two so you can make sure you'll have a little wiggle room. Also be sure that you're wearing whatever foundation garments you'd be wearing, while taking your measurements. Don't take your bust measurement without a bra on!

It's the same with my waist. It's 66 cm/ 26 iches but can be as big as 70. cm. And am I right that the waist is the thinest place on your tummy. Some websites say it just above your hipbones but it is way higher on me.

Your natural waist is the thinnest part on your tummy and will usually be located just below your ribs.

The patterns should be made for breathing people shouldn't they? So they have calculated with that or should I calculate with the extra space I need?

Again, the finished garment measurements should be included on the back of the pattern (if it's a modern pattern anyway). All patterns are designed to include room for wearing ease.

 

[Mary]

Thanks KittyT. Feel a lot more secure how to do it right.

Actually came up with this idea yesterday. I thought I'd put on a skirt that fits me perfectly and measure my waist in that. Then I would know what size on the waist I like.

M

 

[KittyT]

Actually came up with this idea yesterday. I thought I'd put on a skirt that fits me perfectly and measure my waist in that. Then I would know what size on the waist I like.

You can also just measure a few clothing items to get an idea. Lay it flat and measure the waist across, then multiply by 2 This is how a lot of ebay sellers measure items they're selling.

 

[Snookie]

Thanks KittyT. Feel a lot more secure how to do it right.

Actually came up with this idea yesterday. I thought I'd put on a skirt that fits me perfectly and measure my waist in that. Then I would know what size on the waist I like.

M

Careful using this method when looking at patterns...I don't see many that give finished garment measurements, at least with vintage patterns. You might have to measure the pattern to be accurate (don't forget to subtract the seam allowance). When they state sizes, they usually figure a lot of wearing ease. (although the general opinion is that vintage patterns have less ease than modern ones).

 

[Idledame]

I bet Snookie knows the answer to this one. I was trying to look up definitions of different fabrics, say the difference between georgette, lawn, chiffon, batiste and voile. (I was looking at fabrics at denverfabrics.com --less overwhelming than being in a store). I found this site, but it still doesn't have all the terms:
http://www.fabriclink.com/dictionaries/textile.cfm
any suggestions? I have found definitions here and there but not all in one place.

 

[Lady Day]

I use www.fabrics.net for a lot.

LD

 

[Snookie]

Thanks, Idledame, but I don't have a great online source for you...I've got textbooks from school, and beyond that just my personal experience. The books to look for have both defintions and swatches, just reading defintions isn't very helpful. For my personal sewing, I really only use a handful of fabrics that I've found work best for my needs.

I ran a quick search, and though this site isn't complete, it's neat that they have pictures, not just definitions. http://vox.popula.com/vintage/texlib/texlib.html