Schott Leather Quality

[nick123]

I know how you feel. You need to get that jacket, though, because it suits you to the ground. It will be an unmeasureable loss to the coeds od So. Cal. if you don't.

No way. Their collective GPA will take a big hit. Attentiveness to the teachers' lectures will be interrupted by the jacket. They'll all be put on academic probabtion. They'll probably drop out and become hippies, and migrate to a forest commune where they'll have nothing but a satchel of fresh berries and a a sole sleeping bag...

 

[Edward]

The biggest problem IMO is the cut! Their target market is quite clearly old beer bellied bikers, and most of their models have massive guts and short arms compared to the chest and shoulder measurements.
I had to have mine altered pretty drastically to have a good fit. They removed 3" from the stomach area and it is still a bit baggy.

I've never had a chance to compare more recent Schotts to originals from the 40s/50s, but they do seem to be quite boxy jackets, probably have been for a long time. Good for me; means I can do the damn thing up for now, and I'll be able to layer underneath when I lose the weight I need to shift... Not so good for guys with a serious chest/waist drop. If you want something Perfecto style but need that waist drop, look into the Aero take on this. I picked one up a few years ago, but I've got to sell it. The waist drops is very radically on those - the chest is the same size as my Bootlegger (I can wear a 42 in Aero's post-war designs), but the waist is significantly narrower than a Size 42 30s Halfbelt model(!). Gutted to have to part with it - in all honesty, it's a significantly better jacket than the Schott with which I replaced it, but that's life. My Schott is a 618 model, and it is a lovely jacket - just not, imo, as well made or as nice a hide as the Aero. Both are steer, so it's like for like.

OP is indeed right - Few days ago I've had a chance to check out some of the newest Schott merchandise and the leather on their newly made jackets does seem to be somewhat thinner than the older stuff - especially horsehide. My 618hh (which I absolutely love) was made a few years ago and though not as heavy, it's as thick as my Aero motorcycle jacket, but the new 618hh from 2013 does indeed appear to be made out of a considerably thinner hide. Odd.

There was a time when Schott glued a layer of felt to the back of the horse hides they used to make Perfectos. They got a lot of negative feedback on this (a lot of folks thought they were trying to pull a fast one - this was in the days when what everybody wanted was the heaviest of horse), so they stopped doing it and just made the jackets up with standard horse. That might account for the difference you're seeing. They never did this with any other hide, though, just the horse.

Absolute truth! Shoulders and chest is okay but there's just way too much gut room in Schott jackets. Okay, I wear a shearling vest underneath my Schott so I'm actually okay with all the extra space on a jacket that's supposed to be in my size, but if it's a fitted look you're after, forget about their "Order size up" bull if you don't want to end up with a jacket that can fit two people inside! Though I find Vanson only marginally better in that regard. . .

If you've got that 10" drop chest to waist onig on, the Aero MC Perfecto style pattern is well worth looking at. I might just have another one of those made one day, but widened to fit me...

Well I handled my first Schott today. It was an old Pefecto. Size 44 that ran like a 40. Fit beautifully.
View attachment 34492
Sorry, kinda drunk
View attachment 34493

Nice! The more vintage cut models in the Schott range do indeed seem to be somewhat undersized. My 618 is comfortable, though neat (I only wanted to be able to wear a shirt under it). I'd say the fit is fairly similar to my Aero Bootlegger (if just sightly more generous at the waist), but I had to go up to a 46 in the Schott. My Bootlegger is a size 42. The Schott in this regard reminds me of the M422a types.... I usually wear a 42 or a 44 in most things, but in those i'm typically up to a 46 as well.

They go for around £200, usually more, especially if the seller is from Europe. But yeah, 618 in a reasonable condition is priced at £200 or more. Anything below that is a good deal. Great deal at £100.

IME, this is about right - you're talking around GBP200.... but that's looking at larger sizes. I should think you could hope to get it for a fair bit under two-ton looking at a very small size. And a 36 in a 618 really is small - that's closer a 32 in anyone else's line.

 

[IXL]

Schott does still offer some "classic" slim-fitting models in the Perfecto line.

 

[Carlos840]

Schott does still offer some "classic" slim-fitting models in the Perfecto line.

They don't really...The way schott does thing is weird.
Like for example they have the 141, which is their regular fit Cafe Racer and their 641, which is the slim fit version of the 141.
The only difference between the 2 is that the 641 fits one size smaller. So a size 42 141 has EXACTLY the same measurements as a size 44 641.
That's not really a slim fit if you ask me, it's just the same jacket a size smaller.

Personally i think the Schott jackets are aimed at the beer gut crowd, they have a very small drop between chest and waist, and have a tendency to have short arms.
I had mine tailored, (size 44 641) and we tapered it on the side, from the armpits down. We ended up removing 1.5" from each side at the bottom.
Even after that it is still one of my baggier jackets at the bottom. Still, for the price it was a good deal, the jacket back then was cheap and the tailoring was less than $100.

Saying that, i would not pay the current price for one, it's just far to expensive for what it is nowadays compared to what you get with other makers.

 

[Damo]

They don't really...The way schott does thing is weird.
Like for example they have the 141, which is their regular fit Cafe Racer and their 641, which is the slim fit version of the 141.
The only difference between the 2 is that the 641 fits one size smaller. So a size 42 141 has EXACTLY the same measurements as a size 44 641.
That's not really a slim fit if you ask me, it's just the same jacket a size smaller.

Personally i think the Schott jackets are aimed at the beer gut crowd, they have a very small drop between chest and shoulders, and have a tendency to have short arms.
I had mine tailored, (size 44 641) and we tapered it on the side, from the armpits down. We ended up removing 1.5" from each side at the bottom.
Even after that it is still one of my baggier jackets at the bottom. Still, for the price it was a good deal, the jacket back then was cheap and the tailoring was less than $100.

Saying that, i would not pay the current price for one, it's just far to expensive for what it is nowadays compared to what you get with other makers.

Carlos you're spot on!! I wish their naked cow or horsehide had a larger drop from chest to waist. I would love a brown 141 or even in horse but they don't make one in brown, but like you said to get the fit I desire it would need to be tailored. Once you add the price of that plus the shipping back and forth it becomes an expensive jacket.

 

[IXL]

They don't really...The way schott does thing is weird.
Like for example they have the 141, which is their regular fit Cafe Racer and their 641, which is the slim fit version of the 141.
The only difference between the 2 is that the 641 fits one size smaller. So a size 42 141 has EXACTLY the same measurements as a size 44 641.
That's not really a slim fit if you ask me, it's just the same jacket a size smaller.

Personally i think the Schott jackets are aimed at the beer gut crowd, they have a very small drop between chest and waist, and have a tendency to have short arms.
I had mine tailored, (size 44 641) and we tapered it on the side, from the armpits down. We ended up removing 1.5" from each side at the bottom.
Even after that it is still one of my baggier jackets at the bottom. Still, for the price it was a good deal, the jacket back then was cheap and the tailoring was less than $100.

Saying that, i would not pay the current price for one, it's just far to expensive for what it is nowadays compared to what you get with other makers.

I agree, that is strange way to size things.
I thought they had a 613, or a 615, or something similar that they marketed as the "original" slim sizing from the early 20th century.
Have you looked at Vanson jackets for something that might fit?

 

[Carlos840]

I agree, that is strange way to size things.
I thought they had a 613, or a 615, or something similar that they marketed as the "original" slim sizing from the early 20th century.
Have you looked at Vanson jackets for something that might fit?

Maybe they do, but i would not trust a "slim fit" tag on a Schott jacket without trying it on...

Im not really looking for another jacket, jut bought 2 in a short time and i am not really interested in what Vanson has to offer.

 

[IXL]

Maybe they do, but i would not trust a "slim fit" tag on a Schott jacket without trying it on...

Im not really looking for another jacket, jut bought 2 in a short time and i am not really interested in what Vanson has to offer.

My mistake. Just trying to help.....

 

[Carlos840]

My mistake. Just trying to help.....

No worries!

 

[Monitor]

They don't really...The way schott does thing is weird.
Like for example they have the 141, which is their regular fit Cafe Racer and their 641, which is the slim fit version of the 141.
The only difference between the 2 is that the 641 fits one size smaller. So a size 42 141 has EXACTLY the same measurements as a size 44 641.
That's not really a slim fit if you ask me, it's just the same jacket a size smaller.

This is something I suspected for a long while, just haven't had a chance to prove it. It's the same deal with their Perfecto styles, I think. The 118 is just one size larger 618. Ditto for 125.

Personally i think the Schott jackets are aimed at the beer gut crowd, they have a very small drop between chest and waist, and have a tendency to have short arms.
I had mine tailored, (size 44 641) and we tapered it on the side, from the armpits down. We ended up removing 1.5" from each side at the bottom.
Even after that it is still one of my baggier jackets at the bottom. Still, for the price it was a good deal, the jacket back then was cheap and the tailoring was less than $100.

Truth! But in their defense, their main customer base have been riders in their 40's or 50's for a long, long time as these jackets weren't all that fashionable up until recently. Hence the belly friendly fit. Just a few years back, lancer front jackets were still considered to be either biker exclusive jackets or those corny 80's jackets. Moto-hipsterdom happened relatively recently and I don't think Schott was ready for a surge of young people suddenly going crazy about these jackets. That's also why other, fashion oriented companies had so much more success at Schott turf than Schott themselves - regardless of the price and the quality of the jackets they were producing, which were almost all utter crap. This just proves it's all about the fit. If only Schott updated their lousy fit instantly, instead of these half-assed attempts they're doing now when it might be too late...

 

[Blackadder]

If you guys are looking for the old/classic model, then you may have to go to Japan. They are marketed as the 641XX and 613US.
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sanshin/item/7009/
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sanshin/item/7007-ab10/

There is also a 613 UST long model
[http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/p-mrt/item/sc7164/?siteID=je6NUbpObpQ-j_YwLvFNdPm6RQg4WRm24Q

Unfortunately, the biggest size they offer is I think 42.

 

[Edward]

That 42 will probably fit like a 38... which is, of course, the average size in Japan.

As well ae sizing differences, hides vary. The 118 is naked cowhide, the 618, steer. They did do a 618hh, I think still do.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I have a 641XX; best jacket I have owned, including some of the premium brands.

My 44 fits pretty much like a trim 44 - 23.5 pit to pit, 26 inch back, 26 inch sleeves. Lovely firm steer hide. It fits like a 1960's pattern cafe racer.

 

[Monitor]

Jalana store still has one in sz. 40, and I'm broke... I so want that CR.

 

[Damo]

Jalana store still has one in sz. 40, and I'm broke... I so want that CR.

Do it, do it, do it!!!! I checked on there and elsewhere for a Navajo braun Schott 641 but no luck... I really like that colour...

Did you end up Making your visit today??

 

[Blackadder]

Jalana store still has one in sz. 40, and I'm broke... I so want that CR.

Monitor, how about this one?
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/schott/item/7417/

In 2013, Schott released a couple of 100th Anniv jacket in Japan. Those are sold out now.
https://www.schottnyc.com/forum/posts/new_find_schott_100th_anniversary_rosie_japan_only.htm
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/joenet/item/schott-7370/?s-id=borderless_recommend_item_en

 

[nick123]

All I know is that I'm going to try to get that one I tried on the other day. If not I know I'll kick myself for a long, long time.

It was a "Perfecto" brand. Those were made by Schott correct? If so, again, it was a great jacket and Schotts (at least the vintage ones) are of great quality. Totally made me reconsider them. I'm still training myself to pronounce "Schott" (shot) correctly. I still call it a "Scott" half the time. That threw me for a big loop.

 

[Edward]

Germanic pronunciation! Schott always owned the Perfecto brand. Their labelling varied over time, much like D Lewis'.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I'm still training myself to pronounce "Schott" (shot) correctly. I still call it a "Scott" half the time. That threw me for a big loop.

I used to remember it by saying, "give it your best shot (Schott)."

 

[Carlos840]

I have a 641XX; best jacket I have owned, including some of the premium brands.

My 44 fits pretty much like a trim 44 - 23.5 pit to pit, 26 inch back, 26 inch sleeves. Lovely firm steer hide. It fits like a 1960's pattern cafe racer.

If anybody is interested in the 641XX i got the measurements chart from Schott a couple months ago: