Project: 5-Star Buco J-82

[Technonut]

Here's a few more pics I just received:

 

[handymike]

I know you are aware of it, but that D pocket looks too far from center to me…I hope it doesn’t cause issues when worn.

 

[Technonut]

I know you are aware of it, but that D pocket looks too far from center to me…I hope it doesn’t cause issues when worn.

It was a bit difficult to gauge looking at the paper pattern and jacket lying flat, but more noticeable on the mannequin. Not accounting for the D-pocket placement, I think overall the jacket looks well constructed, and closely resembles the original pattern.

However, I am going to express my concerns to
5-Star to see if they will redo the panel / pocket placement...

 

[Canuck Panda]

There are two ways of getting there, one is to move the patch pocket towards the center, but I don't think it would be enough. The other is go to a different pattern block to make the front panels look more in line with the vintage width. It would have to be a combination of the two imo.

It would still be best to get the jacket to the wearer first, and then modify from there on. Custom jacket isn't just specifying numbers and hit a hole in one. Different designs will call for different solutions when they're fitting onto different bodies. The Buco D pocket pattern designs have the front panels wrapped around to the back, and is really not the best for guys carrying more weight up front. The more modern patterns with the side panels wrapping towards the front will work better for bigger guys imo.

Edited with different pics. Both jackets are size 44 but jacket on the right is 1.5" wider in P2P, but built on a different type of pattern block to still keep the vintage look of the pockets. My suggestion is that for the bigger sizes, the pattern block needs to go to the one on the right and leave the block on the right for smaller sizes.

 

[KBlake]

There are two ways of getting there, one is to move the patch pocket towards the center, but I don't think it would be enough. The other is go to a different pattern block to make the front panels look more in line with the vintage width. It would have to be a combination of the two imo.

It would still be best to get the jacket to the wearer first, and then modify from there on. Custom jacket isn't just specifying numbers and hit a hole in one. Different designs will call for different solutions when they're fitting onto different bodies. The Buco D pocket pattern designs have the front panels wrapped around to the back, and is really not the best for guys carrying more weight up front. The more modern patterns with the side panels wrapping towards the front will work better for bigger guys imo.
View attachment 637551
View attachment 637553 View attachment 637554

Now I need a mouton collar for mine. Looks so good on you!

 

[Technonut]

There are two ways of getting there, one is to move the patch pocket towards the center, but I don't think it would be enough. The other is go to a different pattern block to make the front panels look more in line with the vintage width. It would have to be a combination of the two imo.

With the pattern taken directly from Mysteryo's original J-82, shouldn't it just be a matter of moving the D-pocket to a better position? His was a size 46 that 5-Star adjusted the patterns a bit to my specs (44 R). Unfortunately, it doesn't appear they traced the D-pocket or orientation when patterning Mysteryo's jacket project since it was to be eliminated.

Receiving a sub-$300.00 jacket and sending it back to Pakistan for alterations isn't an option for me. The best I can hope for is to have the panel redone with the pocket placement adjusted.

 

[KBlake]

Won’t the stitch holes be visible from the original placement?

With the pattern taken directly from Mysteryo's original J-82, shouldn't it just be a matter of moving the D-pocket to a better position? His was a size 46 that 5-Star adjusted the patterns a bit to my specs (44 R). Unfortunately, it doesn't appear they traced the D-pocket or orientation when patterning Mysteryo's jacket project since it was to be eliminated for his project.

Receiving a sub-$300.00 jacket and sending it back to Pakistan for alterations isn't an option for me. The best I can hope for is to have the panel redone with the pocket placement adjusted.

 

[Technonut]

Won’t the stitch holes be visible from the original placement?

I requested the entire front panel on that side be redone with the D-pocket moved to a more accurate position.

 

[Canuck Panda]

It will have to be a remake unfortunately, and I agree less costly if done before shipment. I edited better photos above for better explaining of the different blocks when going wider torsos.

 

[Marc mndt]

Maybe it's not just the D pocket that's too far out. I think the belt loops, handwarmer pocket and D pocket could all move about an inch closer to the main zip. Chest pocket as well but not as much, maybe by half an inch.

 

[Aloysius]

With the pattern taken directly from Mysteryo's original J-82, shouldn't it just be a matter of moving the D-pocket to a better position? His was a size 46 that 5-Star adjusted the patterns a bit to my specs (44 R).

To be honest, this part baffled me when you first mentioned it. By asking them to do this, you lost the advantage that came with them duplicating his original. Yes they can grade patterns but 46 and 44 are so close, let alone vintage 46 which is more like a 42! Why not go with the sure thing?

 

[Technonut]

To be honest, this part baffled me when you first mentioned it. By asking them to do this, you lost the advantage that came with them duplicating his original. Yes they can grade patterns but 46 and 44 are so close, let alone vintage 46 which is more like a 42! Why not go with the sure thing?

I wasn't certain of Mysteryo's original size 46 measurements, and didn't think grading to my requested measurements would be a big deal since they should be close. At this price-point I'm not expecting a perfect repro, just a fairly accurate, well-constructed representation based upon patterns obtained from an original.

 

[Monitor]

If you're going to go for a remake, ask for a different leather because they've... Let's say, economized with what they've used for this jacket here.

 

[Marc mndt]

If you're going to go for a remake, ask for a different leather because they've... Let's say, economized with what they've used for this jacket here.

Agreed, it looks like gear stick sleeve leather.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Technonut

If you send this mock up image to them they will know what to do for the remake,

Pattern tests are essential parts of making custom jackets.

edit, the overall dimensions is still your measurements, but different seam/panels placement and hence the pocket details don't look to the side so to speak.

edit 2, just in case becasue their photo is weird angle.

edit 3, they might be able to use 1/2 of the existing jacket and just swap out with updated side panels. Let see if that's possible,

 

[Technonut]

If you're going to go for a remake, ask for a different leather because they've... Let's say, economized with what they've used for this jacket here.

Unfortunately, unless the US Government decides to raise my Social Security check, that's what I'm going to get..... Personally, it looks just fine for a MC jacket at it's price point to me (less than $300.00)....

 

[Technonut]

@Technonut

If you send this mock up image to them they will know what to do for the remake,
View attachment 637580

Pattern tests are essential parts of making custom jackets.

edit, the overall dimensions is still your measurements, but different seam/panels placement and hence the pocket details don't look to the side so to speak.

edit 2, just in case becasue their photo is weird angle.
View attachment 637583

edit 3, they might be able to use 1/2 of the existing jacket and just swap out with updated side panels. Let see if that's possible,
View attachment 637584

Thanks! All greatly appreciated!......

 

[ton312]

The d pocket appears to be sliding off the jacket. It's impossible for me to look at the originals Marc posted or the high end remakes canuck panda posted (and then back at the 5 Star), and view the 5 star with any degree of respect or admiration. In fairness, I felt the same way way about Mysteryo's jacket. It certainly doesn't help that the leather is just complertely lifeless. But the pattern looks bad too.

 

[jacketjunkie]

Maybe it's not just the D pocket that's too far out. I think the belt loops, handwarmer pocket and D pocket could all move about an inch closer to the main zip. Chest pocket as well but not as much, maybe by half an inch.

View attachment 637567

Looking at these pictures, I‘d say the positioning is just fine, the top corner of the d-pocket is in very similar spot center south of the chest pockets (the position of which looks fine too). Dont get lost in details such as 0.5“ further left or right, the jacket is close enough.

 

[Monitor]

Unfortunately, unless the US Government decides to raise my Social Security check, that's what I'm going to get..... Personally, it looks just fine for a MC jacket at it's price point to me (less than $300.00)....

I guess that's okay. $300 a year ago is $150 today so that's not too bad but financially, you would do better to go vintage even if it means you might not find this particular jacket you're looking for, than custom with makers such as 5*.

But honestly, I don't think the pocket placement is problematic. It's good enough. 5* won't ever make you a Buco so getting caught up in minute details such as this can only lead to frustration. They've done a decent job, generally.