Buco J‑24 New Fit 44 vs Thedi vs Ponyboy — Need Your Input

[Ruler1609]

Hi everyone, I’d appreciate your advice on a leather jacket dilemma.

I currently own two jackets:
• The Real McCoy’s Buco J‑24 (old fit) in size 42 — very slim and tapering. I can only wear it with a T‑shirt, so I mostly use it in warmer weather or summer.
• Fine Creek Leathers Custom Leon in size 44 — a cleaner, custom version without epaulettes and with the belt removed at the factory (so no cut marks or remnants). It’s a tea‑core horsehide with warm brown already showing through, giving it a more refined and slightly dressier vibe. This jacket fills the role of my brown, more elegant piece.

My main idea is to add a Buco J‑24 new fit in size 44 to serve as my cool‑weather / autumn‑winter (not extreme winter) J‑24, with enough room for layering. This is mainly because the Buco J‑24 is a real personal favorite — it’s the silhouette and style I enjoy the most, and I’d love to have a version I can comfortably wear when temperatures drop.

That said, I’m hesitating between three options:

1) The Real McCoy’s Buco J‑24 BJ21101 (new fit) in size 44
Price: ~1795€ + import taxes.
It comes from Japan, which explains the attractive price compared to the 3300€ EU retail.
RMC confirmed that my existing shearling collar and belt from my size 42 are compatible with the size 44.
This would give me a proper cool‑weather J‑24 with room for layering.

2) Thedi MTC‑127920 (MTO)
Price: ~2000€.
Full veg‑tanned Italian horsehide, removable shearling collar and removable wool vest.
Since I’m in Belgium, I don’t pay any import taxes because it ships from Greece.
At first glance, this seems like the most versatile and all‑season option thanks to its modularity (shearling collar on/off, vest on/off).
Different aesthetic from the J‑24, but very appealing craftsmanship.

3) Rainbow Country “Ponyboy” RCL‑10075 in size 44
Price: ~1406€ + import taxes.
Also coming from Japan, which makes the price quite attractive.
Beautiful tobacco‑brown horsehide in a classic 1950s sports jacket style.
Since it’s a size 44, I would also have enough room for layering, so it could work in cooler weather as well.
Its cleaner, more universal look makes it very easy to wear in many situations.

My question:
Which of these three would be the most sensible addition in terms of quality, durability, value for money, and wardrobe complementarity?

I’m leaning toward the Buco 44 because it fills a clear gap (a cool‑weather J‑24 with layering), and because the J‑24 is simply the model I enjoy wearing the most. But the Ponyboy and the Thedi both have very appealing designs, and the Thedi in particular looks extremely versatile.

I’d love to hear your thoughts, especially from members who own these models or have experience with the fits.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Tom71]

If your mind is set on the RMC J-24, I´d seriously consider a size 42. If you can squeeze yourself into a 42 old fit, a 44 in the new fit will easily feel like two sizes larger. It IS a boxy jacket with roomy sleeves, so layering is not a problem.

With you already having a J-24, the Thedi would appeal to me personally. If you speak with him/Team, do remember that he errs on the slim side, so if you expect room for layering, you have to be very clear in communicating that.

I have never handled an RC jacket, but I hear a lot of good thing re craftmanship/leather. I am just not a big fan of the Ponyboy design.

The RMC J-24 is a great jacket and Thedi makes truly special pieces with a unique twist and beautifully treated leathers. Out of the two, I´d choose according to visual preferences.
The RMC is an OTR jacket, so once you got your measurements right, there´s zero danger of sizing mistakes.

 

[Ruler1609]

If your mind is set on the RMC J-24, I´d seriously consider a size 42. If you can squeeze yourself into a 42 old fit, a 44 in the new fit will easily feel like two sizes larger. It IS a boxy jacket with roomy sleeves, so layering is not a problem.

With you already having a J-24, the Thedi would appeal to me personally. If you speak with him/Team, do remember that he errs on the slim side, so if you expect room for layering, you have to be very clear in communicating that.

​

I have never handled an RC jacket, but I hear a lot of good thing re craftmanship/leather. I am just not a big fan of the Ponyboy design.

The RMC J-24 is a great jacket and Thedi makes truly special pieces with a unique twist and beautifully treated leathers. Out of the two, I´d choose according to visual preferences.
The RMC is an OTR jacket, so once you got your measurements right, there´s zero danger of sizing mistakes.

Thanks a lot for your input, really appreciate it.

Regarding the sizing: I can squeeze myself into the old‑fit 42, but only with a T‑shirt. With wear it has opened up quite a bit — it went from about 53.5 cm to 55.5 cm in the chest — and it’s now perfect as a “T‑shirt jacket”. That’s exactly why I’m looking at the new‑fit 44: I’d like a J‑24 I can actually wear in cooler weather with a light layer underneath. From the measurements and feedback I’ve seen, the 44 seems to give that bit of ease without going into oversized territory.

About Thedi: I agree the modularity and the craftsmanship are very appealing. I’ve already mentioned to Theodoros that I’d want room for layering, so he’s aware that I’m not looking for a slim, close‑to‑the‑body fit. If I go that route, I’ll make sure the pattern reflects that.

As for the Ponyboy, I also hear great things about RC, but the design speaks to me a bit less — more of a clean 50s vibe, whereas the J‑24 silhouette is really the one I enjoy the most.

So at this stage it’s mostly a matter of choosing between the visual identity of the J‑24 and the versatility of a Thedi. Still thinking it through, but your feedback helps a lot.

If your mind is set on the RMC J-24, I´d seriously consider a size 42. If you can squeeze yourself into a 42 old fit, a 44 in the new fit will easily feel like two sizes larger. It IS a boxy jacket with roomy sleeves, so layering is not a problem.

With you already having a J-24, the Thedi would appeal to me personally. If you speak with him/Team, do remember that he errs on the slim side, so if you expect room for layering, you have to be very clear in communicating that.

I have never handled an RC jacket, but I hear a lot of good thing re craftmanship/leather. I am just not a big fan of the Ponyboy design.

The RMC J-24 is a great jacket and Thedi makes truly special pieces with a unique twist and beautifully treated leathers. Out of the two, I´d choose according to visual preferences.
The RMC is an OTR jacket, so once you got your measurements right, there´s zero danger of sizing mistakes.

Thanks a lot for your input, really appreciate it.

Regarding the sizing: I can squeeze myself into the old‑fit 42, but only with a T‑shirt. With wear it has opened up quite a bit — it went from about 53.5 cm to 55.5 cm in the chest — and it’s now perfect as a “T‑shirt jacket”. That’s exactly why I’m looking at the new‑fit 44: I’d like a J‑24 I can actually wear in cooler weather with a light layer underneath. From the measurements and feedback I’ve seen, the 44 seems to give that bit of ease without going into oversized territory.

About Thedi: I agree the modularity and the craftsmanship are very appealing. I’ve already mentioned to Theodoros that I’d want room for layering, so he’s aware that I’m not looking for a slim, close‑to‑the‑body fit. If I go that route, I’ll make sure the pattern reflects that.

As for the Ponyboy, I also hear great things about RC, but the design speaks to me a bit less — more of a clean 50s vibe, whereas the J‑24 silhouette is really the one I enjoy the most.

So at this stage it’s mostly a matter of choosing between the visual identity of the J‑24 and the versatility of a Thedi. Still thinking it through, but your feedback helps a lot.