Peacoat from "Major Coat Company"?

[Jeff M]

I don't really have my heart set on anything specific, except to get a well-constructed peacoat that uses Navy specs (or close - relaxed armpits is acceptable) in relatively good condition. Comparative warmth isn't really an issue for me. Would I be correct in assuming that my early 70s peacoat is Kersey?

From looking at all of the vintage offerings I can see that going that route will be a trial and error journey, likely involving returns.

Also, I see many eBay peacoats are missing buttons, as is my existing too-small vintage coat. Is there a good source for accurate replacements? I see button offerings on eBay but suspect that some might be cheap knockoffs.

I've purchased 4 peacoats on eBay. Never had to return one. All were basically "as new"...including a 1949 coat.
Just depends on the seller. Look for one with a good track record..ask for pictures.
BUttons are no problem. Somebody here can also likely get you one.
Re; the lining, generally an easy relatively inexpensive repair. You may be able to bargain with the seller.
Or..keep looking. They do come up in excellent condition not infrequently.

 

[Peacoat]

When I hear the term "mil-spec" I think of items that are made to military specifications, but are made for the civilian market. The peacoat in your link was made in 1990 and is an actual military item.
AF

Atticus: you are exactly right as to the term and the date.

To confuse things, however, Sterlingwear sells its actual Navy issue peacoat to the civilian market under the name, "Mil-Spec." The "Mil Spec" peacoat is a special order coat that doesn't appear online--a buyer must call the company to place an order.

The use of the term "Mil-Spec" is somewhat confusing in an analytical sense as that particular peacoat is not only constructed to military specifications, it is the real deal actually issued to the sailors.

Another one you may want to take a look at;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-VTG-Wo...87?pt=US_CSA_MC_Outerwear&hash=item3cdaa3a457

Longplay, this also looks to be in your size.
Don't know why you have your heart set on peacoat made out of melton wool, but do consider an earlier one like this made out of Kersey.
There is a reason Kersey peacoats are sought after by peacoat aficianados.
Warmer, better wind/water protection, more compact, smoother/softer than melton wool.
Just a higher quality wool that is obvious once you compare the two side by side.

Agreed, Jeff; thanks for waving the banner of enlightenment. PC.

 

[Jeff M]

Agreed, Jeff; thanks for waving the banner of enlightenment. PC.

All your fault. I didn't know squat about kersey wool peacoats till I read your stickie.
I've since converted a couple of friends and family members to the "vintage kersey" banner.
I've found once you experienced kersey, hard to go back to melton.

 

[Spoonbelly]

I found what appears to be a recent mil spec Sterlingwear peacoat on eBay. Given that I'm thinking of getting a Sterlingwear 42S, it would seem that this would be a bargain in comparison with a new one. Has anyone experienced rip-offs with eBay peacoats?

I have bought approx. 15 pea coats on ebay. One of them was definitely not in the condition that was described. I should have sent it back but due to that being another small project, I kept it and had it fixed up here and there. I think the price of the coat was $40.00. Two others that I bought were fakes (copies). They did not have any tags on the inside of the coats so I thought they were the real Navy coats. There are some copies out there that really look like the real thing (older Kersey coats). The photos make them look legit, but when you get them, they are much lighter and you can tell that they are just copies. I didn't send those two back either, but brought them to Goodwill. I don't think the sellers intentionally try to rip people off. I think they just don't know the whole scoop on all of these pea coats, and think that they are selling the real thing. By and large most of the coats that I got from ebay were as they were described. A couple were not in as excellent condition as described but still quite very good. I wouldn't avoid ebay fearing that you may get ripped off. You need to know what to look for when buying them though. I still check ebay, and am in the process of trying to get another coat. This one is from the UK. I don't collect them but must admit I do have a great fondness for those rascals. Vintage Trends.com is another alternative, but their prices are quite very high.

 

[Longplay]

Here's one that doesn't look too bad. Might be a 60s issue because the tag looks similar to the '67 tag shown in Peacoat's dating thread.

A question: I see some vintage peacoats with the owner's name on the lining. Was this always done such that it is a mark of an authentic navy issue coat?

 

[Spoonbelly]

Here's one that doesn't look too bad. Might be a 60s issue because the tag looks similar to the '67 tag shown in Peacoat's dating thread.

A question: I see some vintage peacoats with the owner's name on the lining. Was this always done such that it is a mark of an authentic navy issue coat?

That coat does look like a '67. Looks OK, but I just checked ebays present, and completed listings (coats that were sold, and coats that did not sell) for size 42 coats. There are a few more size 42 Kersey coats then I thought there would be. You could probably wait until there is an absolute excellent condition 42 Kersey up for auction or "Buy it now". My best guesses as to why the Navy stenciled in the names was to identify the coat and also to identify the sailor if he had died in it. Not all old Kersey coats were stenciled either. I think most, if not all of my coats do not have any stencils.

 

[Jeff M]

2 of my coats have stenciled names. 2 don't.
Allowed the sailors to pick their jacket from a pile of identical jackets.
Doesn't mean a thing.
If somebody wanted to, they could stencil a name on a jacket this morning and try to tell you it was done 40 years ago.

 

[Peacoat]

Here's one that doesn't look too bad. Might be a 60s issue because the tag looks similar to the '67 tag shown in Peacoat's dating thread.

A question: I see some vintage peacoats with the owner's name on the lining. Was this always done such that it is a mark of an authentic navy issue coat?

Why would you not think that is a 1966 tag?

Usually items of clothing in basic training (boot camp for Navy and Marines) had the name and the service number stenciled on them. Army used the last four of the SSN. Now, I believe all services have gone to the SSN instead of a service number. With one's name prominently stenciled on an item of clothing, ownership disputes were pretty much a non issue.

Most, and perhaps almost all, peacoats issued in basic training had the name and service number stenciled on the lining inside the coat. Most, and perhaps almost all of the peacoats purchased after basic training, had no stencil. Usually the name was written on the white pocket tag either in place of or in addition to the stencil.

 

[Longplay]

It seems the the P2P measurement given on most eBay size 42 peacoats is 23. Some of those imply their measuring seam to seam. Is it more important to rely on the size tag because peacoats varied in exact measurements anyway?

 

[Peacoat]

It seems the the P2P measurement given on most eBay size 42 peacoats is 23. Some of those imply their measuring seam to seam. Is it more important to rely on the size tag because peacoats varied in exact measurements anyway?

P2P should not be measured seam to seam. In my sticky I give instructions for the proper method of p2p measurements. I hate to be so pedantic, but that is the only way to do it and obtain a consistent and objective measurement.

A p2p measurement of 23" is not consistent with a true size 42. Most of these ebay sellers don't know how to measure the p2p.

In about 98% of pea coats, the tag size is going to be correct. I had never come across one that was not accurate until fellow member Cooperson received an anomaly about three years ago. It was larger than the stated tag size, and was too large to be wearable by him. Coops is one of our English brothers, and substantial shipping costs across the water were involved. Since then I have heard of one or two other pea coats that were larger than the tag size. That's why I stress getting an accurate p2p measurement. Plus, it will tell the prospective purchaser how closely fitted, or loose, the peacoat will be.

 

[Jeff M]

Here is the section on Peacoat's "Peacoat" thread re; how to measure the chest size of a peacoat;

"When I want a pit to pit measurement of the peacoat, I ask the seller to lay the coat face up on a flat surface, such as a bed. Stretch it tightly from side to side and pull the same amount of material evenly from the front and the back. Do not be concerned about any seams--disregard the seams. We want the amount of material stretched in the back to be the same as the amount stretched in the front. Then let the fabric relax and take the measurement. It should be a whole number and a fraction--such as 19.25 inches. Do not round off; we want the entire number. Try to be accurate to 1/8 of an inch. This pit to pit measurement tells us how the coat will fit in the chest, and if the stated chest size on the tag is accurate.

To find the actual size of a peacoat in the absence of a tag, or to check the accuracy of the tag, take the number as determined above. Disregard the fraction and multiply the whole number by 2. Then subtract 2 inches from the result. This (subtracting the 2 inches) will give the actual chest size of the garment, even though the measurement is taken from the outside. It does not give the interior measurement, but only the chest size of the peacoat. As an example, I would expect a size 44 peacoat to measure a little over 23 inches across the chest--say 23 1/4 inches. Disregard the 1/4 inch and multiply the 23 by 2 = 46. Then subtract 2 inches, which gives a true size of 44. This method is helpful when there is no tag on the coat, or no chest size is stated on the tag. Keep in mind it doesn't give us an interior measurement of the coat, but only an accurate tag size of the coat, whether the original tag is present or not. In WWII models, the pit to pit number may be whole number without a fraction as they were built a little more fitted than the post war coats."

 

[Peacoat]

Jeff M: Thank you for posting that information. I couldn't have said it better myself.

The reason I seldom quote the guide is I want readers to look at it themselves. Often the "Aha" moment comes after they have read about 3/4 of the way through. That's when they realize there may be something to this vintage Kersey fabric after all. PC.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Why would you not think that is a 1966 tag?

Usually items of clothing in basic training (boot camp for Navy and Marines) had the name and the service number stenciled on them. Army used the last four of the SSN. Now, I believe all services have gone to the SSN instead of a service number. With one's name prominently stenciled on an item of clothing, ownership disputes were pretty much a non issue.

Most, and perhaps almost all, peacoats issued in basic training had the name and service number stenciled on the lining inside the coat. Most, and perhaps almost all of the peacoats purchased after basic training, had no stencil. Usually the name was written on the white pocket tag either in place of or in addition to the stencil.

Sorry about that, my mistake. I forgot
1966 has no "66" on the tag, but 1967 does have "67" on the tag.

 

[Jeff M]

Jeff M: Thank you for posting that information. I couldn't have said it better myself.

The reason I seldom quote the guide is I want readers to look at it themselves. Often the "Aha" moment comes after they have read about 3/4 of the way through. That's when they realize there may be something to this vintage Kersey fabric after all. PC.

Sorry about that.
Sometimes it seems that just giving a horse directions to the stream isn't enough. They need somebody to actually lead them there.
Getting them to take a drink is still up to them.

 

[Longplay]

I have read the article in question - before the post in question - but what I need to do now is try measuring my old peacoat so I better understand what I'm asking a seller to do. I'll give that shot this weekend.

 

[Peacoat]

I have read the article in question - before the post in question - but what I need to do now is try measuring my old peacoat so I better understand what I'm asking a seller to do. I'll give that shot this weekend.

Perhaps the hardest concept to master is to forget the seams and pull the fabric equally from both the front side and the back side. Pull the fabric tight, let it relax and then take the measurement. It really is simple.

 

[Longplay]

Perhaps the hardest concept to master is to forget the seams and pull the fabric equally from both the front side and the back side. Pull the fabric tight, let it relax and then take the measurement. It really is simple.

File this under "there's no sich thing as a dumb question" but am I correct to assume this is to be done with the jacket buttoned? I can't recall if this was exolicitly stated in the sizing thread.

 

[Peacoat]

File this under "there's no sich thing as a dumb question" but am I correct to assume this is to be done with the jacket buttoned? I can't recall if this was exolicitly stated in the sizing thread.

It may be a bit difficult to pull the fabric tight from both the front and back sides unless the coat is buttoned. However, if you can find a way to do that, then it might work. Probably wouldn't be as accurate, though. I suggest you fully button the peacoat, then take the measurements. It'll work better that way.

 

[Longplay]

Which of these - if any - is the right way, and point at which, to take the P2P measurement?

And pending having questions answered, does this eBay offering look okay? Seller has good feedback but doesn't allow returns on this item.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Which of these - if any - is the right way, and point at which, to take the P2P measurement?

That method is the Right Way.

But keep in mind it's outerwear and despite what has been suggested you do not need to take a measurement to the nearest 1/8".