Lost worlds Horsehide trench coat

[tedobs]

Greetings,

I'm looking to buy a leather trench coat. These prove very hard to find, the only one I can find that I really like is one made by lost worlds. http://www.lostworldsinc.com/Vintage_Trench_Coat.htm I've been e-mailing back and forth with Stuart, who I suppose runs LW, and he has been very kind and helpful (despite his reputation on the internet). For sizing he asked only my height and weight and said it should be either a 40 or a 42. He can't send me one to try on, because he says the trench is a custom order and he has none to send.

My questions are the following:

• How do I decide between 40 and 42? (I've never owned a well fitting jacket)
• Do you know of any other high quality leather trench coats on the market today?(I live in Belgium, the closer the better)
• is $2250 overpriced? In general, why is Lost Worlds so much more expensive than Aero for example?
• Should I go for it?

I'm eager to hear what the forum has to say. Feel free to express any opinion you might have on the subject!

Thomas

 

[Monitor]

1. You don't - That's what the maker should assure you of before taking on the job. 'cause right now they're giving you 50/50 odds you're going to get what you paid $2250 for.
With an investment as massive as this, I would have a professional tailor take my measurements if you're unsure how to do it yourself, and send the numbers to LW. They ought to be able to tell you then what size would be the best for you.
Lost Worlds return policy is a bit iffy, especially for custom pieces. Read the small print and absolutely make sure to ask if you can return/exchange the coat if the size is off. I cannot stress this enough.
If you can't, it's not worth the risk, especially if you're in Europe.

2. No, sorry.

3. Yes and no. $2K+ became somewhat of a standard these days, which is beyond any reasoning or logic but on the other hand, this significantly simplifies the matter as it all comes down to what the item is worth to you.
It's all been discussed in another thread but if you like this coat & if you can afford it, you should get it. I can guarantee you you'll have a tremendously quality and beautiful coat.

4. See 3.

 

[J Leather Investigater]

As far as sizing goes I recommend leaving it in stus hands he has a very high percentage of making a perfect fitting jacket. I wouldn't go against him advising anything personally. I did ignore his recommendation once on a jacket and I should have listened, it got sold due to sizing. I have no experience what so ever with this style so nothing there. L.w. jackets are pricey but its because the quality of materials an craftsmanship are unequaled, its true. You get your moneys worth, so relax an expect the best. There are other jackets priced similarly that I don't think are worth it. I wear other jackets to experience different styles/ leather that L.W. doesn't offer but when I do its obvious that L.W. stands alone. There will be people who disagree but they probably prefer thin leather and probably havnt ordered a custom jacket from L.W.. I personally love that l.w. builds a functional/equipment jacket that also looks badass. Not merely a fashion jacket. Order it bro.

 

[tedobs]

1. You don't - That's what the maker should assure you of before taking on the job. 'cause right now they're giving you 50/50 odds you're going to get what you paid $2250 for.
With an investment as massive as this, I would have a professional tailor take my measurements if you're unsure how to do it yourself, and send the numbers to LW. They ought to be able to tell you then what size would be the best for you.
Lost Worlds return policy is a bit iffy, especially for custom pieces. Read the small print and absolutely make sure to ask if you can return/exchange the coat if the size is off. I cannot stress this enough.
If you can't, it's not worth the risk, especially if you're in Europe.

Great advice, I'll do just that, thank you very much!

 

[yellowfever]

Hi Thomas, welcome! A leather trench is a full on look and a brave choice. It takes confidence to wear one. That said I personally love them and have had more positive reactions to wearing them than any of my other jackets. I’ve currently got 2 leather trench coats (and had three - one was sadly stolen). I also own several cotton gabardine trench coats, it is a great practical style for Belgian weather!

You’ll find some discussion between myself and Red Devil, slightly randomly, in this thread - he’s considering a LW trench too. See page three onwards:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...boot-preservative-to-a-leather-jacket.103400/

I’m not sure from what you say in your post how much experience of owning and wearing leather jackets you have. Proper (ie not cheap lightweight fashion lamb skin jackets) leather jackets are heavy and not everyone gets along with them - we’re used to softer lighter fabrics these days. If it’s a leather trench coat, which is (or should be) long, double breasted and warmly lined then it’s heavier still. Even my shorter lighter weight leather trench coat is 3kg. My long vintage one is over 4kg. They are also not for the shy or under confident...

So I do worry slightly that as you say you don’t currently own a well fitting jacket you may make an expensive mistake. A great idea to post here and seek advice as you’ve done. But a leather trench coat is really jumping in at the deep end. Especially if you go for a very expensive high end jacket to start with, before you’ve learned what you really like and what size you are, by trying various jackets and measuring them and seeing what works best for you.

Personally if I were you I’d start by carefully taking my measurements from whatever reasonably heavy well fitting jacket of whatever material you already own as a starting point and then go get yourself a suitably sized/styled vintage leather coat off eBay to start with. In brown for a more subtle look/avoiding unfortunate historical connotations. Just don’t overpay, nor believe they’re all made of horsehide as many eBay sellers like to claim with zero evidence.

This thread has a little info on one member who recently bought a trench on eBay

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/horsehide-repair-to-swedish-trench.103392/

This way you can see if a heavy leather trench coat is for you and what size might work. It won’t cost you nearly as much as a new one and you’ll probably be able to sell the jacket on eBay for nearly what you paid for it if it doesn’t work out, or once it’s served it’s purpose and you’re ready to buy a new high end leather coat having a better idea on sizing.

When you come to buy a decent leather trench the options (other than vintage) are indeed limited. Other than a totally custom order from a leather maker making a pattern from scratch (who knows what that would cost/how it would turn out, but it’s not a risk I would personally take) there are essentially three choices I’m aware of:

1) A Vanson Luftwaffe. I had one but sadly it got stolen. It was black with silver buttons, made of their heavy competition cowhide and wool lined. Even the pockets were leather lined! They don’t get any more full on that this. I loved it and would have got another when mine was stolen, but couldn’t face the wait and another 10 years of regular wear to break it in... Vanson are not lost world price but still expensive especially outside the USA after import duties and taxes etc... despite my love of this jacket I’d hesitate recommending it to you, unless you’ve already had experience of heavy statement jackets and the unyielding nature of Vanson hide.

2) A lost worlds. I seriously considered this as a replacement after the Vanson was stolen. The wait and very high price (plus import taxes/duties to come on top!) put me off in the end, but I was seriously tempted as it would be of lovely leather (maybe I’d have even gone for pliable deerskin) and LW have a (mostly) stellar reputation. Plenty of folk on here, like Red Devil who’s currently considering a trench from them, have LW jackets and can offer their more informed opinions on the pros and cons of LW and why the price is what it is. FWIW I’d love to own one I must say, maybe one day...

3) The other choice is Pegasus, and in the end I got their leather trench coat as the replacement for the stolen Vanson. It’s brown horsehide, comes just about on the knee (so a little short for a trench) is wool lined and used as my regular winter coat. The leather is fairly flexible (the Pegasus owner hates the stiff horsehide other makers often use), it drapes pretty well and is heavy but not overly heavy so more easy to wear than the Vanson was (or my vintage trench coat is). The pattern it excellent and it’s well made, though I found the leather a bit flat and boring at first it’s grown in me. You’ll be able to choose from a few leathers and various linings and make small adaptions (I got a second inside pocket added and changed the sleeve lining). They are also not cheap, though not LW prices, and you’ll have to wait a little too. However, they ship from Paris I think, so as it’s intra-EU there are no tax/duties on top when sending to Belgium, which saves a fair bit of money.

Well I hope that helps and, whatever you decide, updates and (eventual) photos of whatever you get would be appreciated.

 

[tedobs]

Hi Thomas, welcome! A leather trench is a full on look and a brave choice. It takes confidence to wear one. That said I personally love them and have had more positive reactions to wearing them than any of my other jackets. I’ve currently got 2 leather trench coats (and had three - one was sadly stolen). I also own several cotton gabardine trench coats, it is a great practical style for Belgian weather!

You’ll find some discussion between myself and Red Devil, slightly randomly, in this thread - he’s considering a LW trench too. See page three onwards:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...boot-preservative-to-a-leather-jacket.103400/

I’m not sure from what you say in your post how much experience of owning and wearing leather jackets you have. Proper (ie not cheap lightweight fashion lamb skin jackets) leather jackets are heavy and not everyone gets along with them - we’re used to softer lighter fabrics these days. If it’s a leather trench coat, which is (or should be) long, double breasted and warmly lined then it’s heavier still. Even my shorter lighter weight leather trench coat is 3kg. My long vintage one is over 4kg. They are also not for the shy or under confident...

So I do worry slightly that as you say you don’t currently own a well fitting jacket you may make an expensive mistake. A great idea to post here and seek advice as you’ve done. But a leather trench coat is really jumping in at the deep end. Especially if you go for a very expensive high end jacket to start with, before you’ve learned what you really like and what size you are, by trying various jackets and measuring them and seeing what works best for you.

Personally if I were you I’d start by carefully taking my measurements from whatever reasonably heavy well fitting jacket of whatever material you already own as a starting point and then go get yourself a suitably sized/styled vintage leather coat off eBay to start with. In brown for a more subtle look/avoiding unfortunate historical connotations. Just don’t overpay, nor believe they’re all made of horsehide as many eBay sellers like to claim with zero evidence.

This thread has a little info on one member who recently bought a trench on eBay

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/horsehide-repair-to-swedish-trench.103392/

This way you can see if a heavy leather trench coat is for you and what size might work. It won’t cost you nearly as much as a new one and you’ll probably be able to sell the jacket on eBay for nearly what you paid for it if it doesn’t work out, or once it’s served it’s purpose and you’re ready to buy a new high end leather coat having a better idea on sizing.

When you come to buy a decent leather trench the options (other than vintage) are indeed limited. Other than a totally custom order from a leather maker making a pattern from scratch (who knows what that would cost/how it would turn out, but it’s not a risk I would personally take) there are essentially three choices I’m aware of:

1) A Vanson Luftwaffe. I had one but sadly it got stolen. It was black with silver buttons, made of their heavy competition cowhide and wool lined. Even the pockets were leather lined! They don’t get any more full on that this. I loved it and would have got another when mine was stolen, but couldn’t face the wait and another 10 years of regular wear to break it in... Vanson are not lost world price but still expensive especially outside the USA after import duties and taxes etc... despite my love of this jacket I’d hesitate recommending it to you, unless you’ve already had experience of heavy statement jackets and the unyielding nature of Vanson hide.

2) A lost worlds. I seriously considered this as a replacement after the Vanson was stolen. The wait and very high price (plus import taxes/duties to come on top!) put me off in the end, but I was seriously tempted as it would be of lovely leather (maybe I’d have even gone for pliable deerskin) and LW have a (mostly) stellar reputation. Plenty of folk on here, like Red Devil who’s currently considering a trench from them, have LW jackets and can offer their more informed opinions on the pros and cons of LW and why the price is what it is. FWIW I’d love to own one I must say, maybe one day...

3) The other choice is Pegasus, and in the end I got their leather trench coat as the replacement for the stolen Vanson. It’s brown horsehide, comes just about on the knee (so a little short for a trench) is wool lined and used as my regular winter coat. The leather is fairly flexible (the Pegasus owner hates the stiff horsehide other makers often use), it drapes pretty well and is heavy but not overly heavy so more easy to wear than the Vanson was (or my vintage trench coat is). The pattern it excellent and it’s well made, though I found the leather a bit flat and boring at first it’s grown in me. You’ll be able to choose from a few leathers and various linings and make small adaptions (I got a second inside pocket added and changed the sleeve lining). They are also not cheap, though not LW prices, and you’ll have to wait a little too. However, they ship from Paris I think, so as it’s intra-EU there are no tax/duties on top when sending to Belgium, which saves a fair bit of money.

Well I hope that helps and, whatever you decide, updates and (eventual) photos of whatever you get would be appreciated.

Wow, I'm very grateful for the lengthy and thorough responses I'm getting. It's my first time posting here and I'm super impressed. Seems like you guys really want to help me out, thanks!

I've been in contact with Pegasus as well. They're prepared to make their officers coat a tad longer and without the epaulettes, special order for me! I'm looking for more of a classy look than a military look. I checked out the Vanson and they seem a tad on the military side for me. Also I want a brown coat, so that it doesn't look too aggressive. I appreciate that LW is an actual repro, while Pegasus is an 'inspired by'.

I've actually worn a women's leather trench coat for years. I'm used to the statement it makes and I actually think that a coat that fits properly and is of high quality will be less off-putting to other people than what I currently wear. If it just looks great, people will understand (I hope ). I'll add a picture so you can decide if I pull it off My old coat \/

This whole thing is really because I want to replace my old coat. I'll make sure to send measurements to Stuart and get him to agree to me returning the coat should it fit badly. I'll think about buying a second hand coat to try, but I'm not sure about that option yet. I think I'll adapt to heavy outerwear pretty quickly if I actually buy the LW trench. Can't imagine letting it gather dust once I actually own it.

I'll keep you guys up to date!

 

[Will Zach]

Send Stu your old coat if it fits you perfectly to increase the odds of a good fit.

 

[tedobs]

Send Stu your old coat if it fits you perfectly to increase the odds of a good fit.

That's not a bad idea. The coat in the pic is too small though. It's supposed to be double-breasted, but closing it is really uncomfortable. It might still help him anyways. I'll propose it to him.

 

[tmitchell59]

As far as sizing goes I recommend leaving it in stus hands he has a very high percentage of making a perfect fitting jacket. I wouldn't go against him advising anything personally.

yep

 

[red devil]

I see @yellowfever gave you all the info you might need regarding trench coats and, yes, I am myself considering one, but not sure what I want it to be made of.
I own quite a few LW jackets so I can help you in that aspect, but I am clueless about how the trench coat fits.

I found LW to be worth what they charge, because they are the only company I can think off that does such neat construction while keeping durability. If I could give you a parallel, it would be as if you were getting a bulldozer made with space grade precision (not an excessive exageration).

In other words it will outlive you and there is no need to baby it. They are the toughest of all jackets I have handled so far.

The main question is which leather to go for, I would avoid heavy HH as it will take you a long time to get comfortable in it. His lightest HH which should be around 3 to 3.5oz is a good option, Considering you want brown, you might want to consider goat hide as well, it is no less durable than HH as far as I know, and it will drape well. The LW jackets are generally well designed, the patterns are comfortable and give you very good range of motion.

When it comes to fit, I suspect you want to be able to layer under? It would be best for you to discuss all the specifics with Stuart regarding this. That being said, if you take your measurements, you might as well share them here.

Let us know how you get on!

Edit: typos

 

[Marc mndt]

I'm looking to buy a leather trench coat. These prove very hard to find, the only one I can find that I really like is one made by lost worlds.

Thedi Leathers has a nice selection of military inspired leather coats as well.

https://thedi-leathers.com/product-category/jackets/three-quarters-length-coat/

 

[red devil]

Thedi Leathers has a nice selection of military inspired leather coats as well.

https://thedi-leathers.com/product-category/jackets/three-quarters-length-coat/

I have this one upcoming

https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-1279400/

But it still much shorter than a trench coat. I wonder if any of these models works if you jsut make it longer, particularly this one

https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-s127999/

 

[Monitor]

Wow, I'm very grateful for the lengthy and thorough responses I'm getting. It's my first time posting here and I'm super impressed. Seems like you guys really want to help me out, thanks!

I've been in contact with Pegasus as well. They're prepared to make their officers coat a tad longer and without the epaulettes, special order for me! I'm looking for more of a classy look than a military look. I checked out the Vanson and they seem a tad on the military side for me. Also I want a brown coat, so that it doesn't look too aggressive. I appreciate that LW is an actual repro, while Pegasus is an 'inspired by'.

I've actually worn a women's leather trench coat for years. I'm used to the statement it makes and I actually think that a coat that fits properly and is of high quality will be less off-putting to other people than what I currently wear. If it just looks great, people will understand (I hope ). I'll add a picture so you can decide if I pull it off My old coat \/ View attachment 311571 View attachment 311570
This whole thing is really because I want to replace my old coat. I'll make sure to send measurements to Stuart and get him to agree to me returning the coat should it fit badly. I'll think about buying a second hand coat to try, but I'm sure about that option yet. I think I'll adapt to heavy outerwear pretty quickly if I actually buy the LW trench. Can't imagine letting it gather dust once I actually own it.

I'll keep you guys up to date!

You got a great look going on there. Well put together. Mods just switching to skinheads 60's vibes. I'd go for it, for sure but it helps that you're young. In my 40's, I'd look creepy wearing a leather trench coat. I think. Anyway, go for it but my initial suggestions remain. Make sure you get the right size as over-sized trench coat is the LAST thing you need! I'd rather get a 38 than 42, just to be sure. XD

 

[erikb02809]

3) The other choice is Pegasus, and in the end I got their leather trench coat as the replacement for the stolen Vanson. It’s brown horsehide, comes just about on the knee (so a little short for a trench) is wool lined and used as my regular winter coat. The leather is fairly flexible (the Pegasus owner hates the stiff horsehide other makers often use), it drapes pretty well and is heavy but not overly heavy so more easy to wear than the Vanson was (or my vintage trench coat is). The pattern it excellent and it’s well made, though I found the leather a bit flat and boring at first it’s grown in me. You’ll be able to choose from a few leathers and various linings and make small adaptions (I got a second inside pocket added and changed the sleeve lining). They are also not cheap, though not LW prices, and you’ll have to wait a little too. However, they ship from Paris I think, so as it’s intra-EU there are no tax/duties on top when sending to Belgium, which saves a fair bit of money.

Last time I spoke to Kevin at Pegasus, I was informed they had switched to Shinki, which I suspect is also why their prices went up a smidge. I loved the first Pegasus D Pocket I had but hated how rapidly the hide wore, but when I found out they switched, planned to place an order as soon as the budget would allow (incidentally, the budget allowed about a month ago - super psyched for it to arrive). I'd put the quality of the craftsmanship pretty close to the level of the LW Trojan I used to own. The first one I had was literally stitch for stitch perfect, and I briefly owned a 2nd one that I suspect was a Friday afternoon coat - the topstitching was unfinished and unraveling in the corner of where the left lapel met the collar, and also some funkiness on one of the wrists. Kevin took care of shipping it back to the workshop and having it repaired.

Important to note, - the workshop is in South Korea, not France, but not sure if Kevin could have the jacket shipped to his location in France first, if that would help with tax/duties, etc.

To the OP, I wouldn't hesitate to move forward with Pegasus. If there's any issues w/the jacket on Pegasus's side of things, they'll definitely make it right.

 

[air]

How do I decide between 40 and 42?

Thomas

Tell LW that since VAT and import fees would add another 742.50$ to the price, you will fly to America so he can take your measurements in person, wait until your coat is done and fly back to Europe.

21% vat + 12% duties = 35% total markup
https://www.easyship.com/duties-and...gium?value=2250&currency=USD&category=fashion

 

[ton312]

Last time I spoke to Kevin at Pegasus, I was informed they had switched to Shinki, which I suspect is also why their prices went up a smidge. I loved the first Pegasus D Pocket I had but hated how rapidly the hide wore, but when I found out they switched, planned to place an order as soon as the budget would allow (incidentally, the budget allowed about a month ago - super psyched for it to arrive). I'd put the quality of the craftsmanship pretty close to the level of the LW Trojan I used to own. The first one I had was literally stitch for stitch perfect, and I briefly owned a 2nd one that I suspect was a Friday afternoon coat - the topstitching was unfinished and unraveling in the corner of where the left lapel met the collar, and also some funkiness on one of the wrists. Kevin took care of shipping it back to the workshop and having it repaired.

Important to note, - the workshop is in South Korea, not France, but not sure if Kevin could have the jacket shipped to his location in France first, if that would help with tax/duties, etc.

To the OP, I wouldn't hesitate to move forward with Pegasus. If there's any issues w/the jacket on Pegasus's side of things, they'll definitely make it right.

Interesting they are using Shinki now! I bought one of Kevin’s jackets in 2012 and reviewed it here. Was incredibly well made and the hide was a thick and beautiful HH. At the time I preferred it to CXL. Just as you describe it was “flaky” and felt as if would chip/patina very quickly. I wish he’d do a straight up, boring Halfbelt with a wide collar.

 

[Coriu]

I looked at the trench coat on Lost Worlds' website. It is a heavy, bold look and possibly somewhat limiting from a wardrobe perspective. If you are open to ideas, you might consider something from Seraphin of France. They manufacture for Hermes and produce some nice pieces that could possibly give you more latitude for wearing the coat, ie from dressy to more casual.

Unless acquiring as a collector piece, I cannot see spending $2250 on a leather trench coat, even for someone who has the means to do so. If you wear trench coats that often, you could get 3 nice coats for $750 and have some fun with variety.

 

[tedobs]

Thedi leather is looking very promising. I'm really into the whole earthy/hippy thing they've got going on, it speaks to my inner hipster! If they'd make this https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-1279400/ a tad longer, then it would look pretty much exactly like a superior version of the jacket I own, which is what I'm looking for. Sent them and e-mail, but I don't expect them to reply on a Sunday, I'll relay their response here!

If it's true that LW would cost an additional $750 just to send it here, that would pretty much rule them out. To Greece, or France, or Scotland I'd gladly go to visit the workshop, but crossing the Atlantic Ocean feels like a bridge to far for me. I'd rather get a European coat anyways, just out of a sense of kinsmanship toward my fellow Europeans, if that makes sense.

I've sent Seraphin an e-mail also, but they seem to have a more modern thing going on. Who knows, maybe I'm wrong, we'll see.

I thanks you all for your response to this thread. I read every single response, of course. It's the first time I've ever posted anything on any forum and it's been a wonderful experience so far!

 

[Monitor]

If it's true that LW would cost an additional $750 just to send it here, that would pretty much rule them out.

LW can declare the package at a lower value if you ask them to so you wouldn't get hit by insane fees but otherwise, yeah, $750 sounds about right. Where I am, I'd have to pay $1012.

 

[Carlos840]

LW can declare the package at a lower value if you ask them to so you wouldn't get hit by insane fees but otherwise, yeah, $750 sounds about right. Where I am, I'd have to pay $1012.

Yep, all my LW where declared as being worth 650$, i never paid more than 350$ for shipping + import taxes.

Personally i'm a big fan of LW (i have 11 of their jackets and more coming) and would definitely recommend their work, but Thedi is definitely no slouch either.
You can't go wrong with either of them.