Lost worlds Horsehide trench coat

[Marc mndt]

It's not that I don't like the ones I'm about to post, it's just that they differ from Thedi's site

This one is cognac buffalo, like this https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-127915/ but it looks so different with less luster and patina

I was hoping the cognac buffalo would be more like this next one.

This bruciato horsehide looks a lot more grey than the one on their site, which looks more red. https://thedi-leathers.com/product/cafe-racer-mtc-127920/

It's not that any of these pics look bad, it just makes choosing a lot more difficult.

I don't see the pics.

 

[tedobs]

I don't see the pics.

Hmm, strange. I'll try again.

So this one is the same as https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-127915/ but looks les patina-ish.

And the next one looks more grey than on Thedi's site where it looks more red https://thedi-leathers.com/product/cafe-racer-mtc-127920/

Thoughts?

 

[Marc mndt]

Hmm, strange. I'll try again.

So this one is the same as https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-127915/ but looks les patina-ish.
View attachment 313488

And the next one looks more grey than on Thedi's site where it looks more red https://thedi-leathers.com/product/cafe-racer-mtc-127920/
View attachment 313489

Thoughts?

The second one is mine

There are a couple of reasons:

1) Thedi gives their jackets a beeswax finish which darkens the leather. Applied by hand so each jacket is slightly different.

2) these are vegetable tanned leathers which darken when exposed to sunlight.

3) some of Thedi's leathers are hand dyed

4) leather is a natural product, each hide is unique

5) The photos on Thedi's website are oversaturated.

6) capturing the true color in a photo is next to impossible. Also, on different screens the color will look differently.

These are swatches of Thedi's bruciato horsehide. One washed, one natural.

Two more pics of my bruciato hh jacket.

 

[red devil]

Hmm, strange. I'll try again.

So this one is the same as https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-127915/ but looks les patina-ish.
View attachment 313488

And the next one looks more grey than on Thedi's site where it looks more red https://thedi-leathers.com/product/cafe-racer-mtc-127920/
View attachment 313489

Thoughts?

As @Marc mndt said there is a range you have to be happy with. You can't get an exact colour, I suspect even Theo can't predict how it will look exactly in the end, He most likely uses his judgement as he goes.

From what I understand, you will be wearing this jacket almost daily, it will patina with use. This one is a typical example of "it will look it worst when new", meaning it will only get better with use.

 

[tedobs]

Hello, everyone!

Haven't posted in a while but there hasn't been any news up until now. Thedi has sent me a couple of leather pieces and I'm still not sure about leather choice.

Most of these have both a washed and an unwashed piece. If two pieces are stapled together, the top one is washed. Does anyone know what this washing process is? Is it a process to make the leather look vintage prematurely? Will unwashed look like washed after a while?

Right now I'm stuck on three leather types. Cognac buffalo unwashed (left) ; bruciato horsehide unwashed (right bottom) ; bruciato horsehide washed (right top). I like the buffalo's colour best, but it has some downsides. I crumpled up all of these leathers and the buffalo got a lot of permanent creasing from this, while the horsehide withstood it a lot better.

That said, the buffalo is a lot more water resistant. I dropped some water on these pieces and the horsehide really soaked it up like a sponge, while buffalo is a lot more waterproof.

An advantage of the horsehide is that it is substantially thicker and it's also a more 'future proof' colour than the cognac buffalo, which might look good on me, a young whippersnapper, but maybe not when I'm 50. The buffalo is not very much thicker than my old coat and I want my new coat to be made of thicker leather than my old one.

Any opinions and insights that could aid my choosing would be welcome!

 

[Robbie79]

That's indeed a difficult decision - I like all. I posted following regarding washing + waxing on my jacket review yesterday - Otherwise, I'm sure he would answer your specific questions. I hope you will soon make progress with your project:

I was talking to Theodoros yesterday evening and he gave me a little insight on manufacturing of this deerskin jacket which makes me curious to visit him at some time but then without credit card and money for sure!
Here's the info he gave me yesterday - most of you either know it already or can imagine that the manufacturing procedures are like this:
It actually took days and hours of treatments to come up with this effect. The pieces that make up this jacket are made of different leathers (they need a number of skins for its production). Then it is cut to some size larger, washed, shrunk, brushed, softened (most likely (they have a tolerance of plus minus 1cm). They spend hours and endless tests of materials for getting this result which is not simple.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...r-and-shoulder-bag.103645/page-3#post-2789191

 

[tedobs]

That's indeed a difficult decision - I like all. I posted following regarding washing + waxing on my jacket review yesterday - Otherwise, I'm sure he would answer your specific questions. I hope you will soon make progress with your project:

I was talking to Theodoros yesterday evening and he gave me a little insight on manufacturing of this deerskin jacket which makes me curious to visit him at some time but then without credit card and money for sure!
Here's the info he gave me yesterday - most of you either know it already or can imagine that the manufacturing procedures are like this:
It actually took days and hours of treatments to come up with this effect. The pieces that make up this jacket are made of different leathers (they need a number of skins for its production). Then it is cut to some size larger, washed, shrunk, brushed, softened (most likely (they have a tolerance of plus minus 1cm). They spend hours and endless tests of materials for getting this result which is not simple.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...r-and-shoulder-bag.103645/page-3#post-2789191

Thank you for your reply!

You say "washed, shrunk, brushed, softened" which still contains the word "washed" so I'm not really clear on that one yet. Shrunk, brushed, softened seem like things that would occur naturally. In the electric guitar world there is this trend where the manufacturer damages the guitar on purpose to make it look older. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/321725967132399986/
I personally find this practice extremely cringe-worthy and I don't want anything of the sort done to my coat. If Thedi's "washing" is gently applying some oils, waxes and tender, loving kisses, then I'm down with it. If this "washing" is tumbling, or applying dyes for a custom patina job, I'm definitely NOT down with it. Anything that can happen naturally must happen naturally. This is why I really need to understand this whole "washing" deal, because I can't tell from just looking at it whether I want it or not. It's more a matter of principle than aesthetics.

 

[Marc mndt]

Thank you for your reply!

You say "washed, shrunk, brushed, softened" which still contains the word "washed" so I'm not really clear on that one yet. Shrunk, brushed, softened seem like things that would occur naturally. In the electric guitar world there is this trend where the manufacturer damages the guitar on purpose to make it look older. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/321725967132399986/
I personally find this practice extremely cringe-worthy and I don't want anything of the sort done to my coat. If Thedi's "washing" is gently applying some oils, waxes and tender, loving kisses, then I'm down with it. If this "washing" is tumbling, or applying dyes for a custom patina job, I'm definitely NOT down with it. Anything that can happen naturally must happen naturally. This is why I really need to understand this whole "washing" deal, because I can't tell from just looking at it whether I want it or not. It's more a matter of principle than aesthetics.

Thedi's 'wash' means he applied beeswax onto the finished jacket. No distressing. It only darkens certain areas.

 

[tedobs]

Ooh, that sounds and looks nice! The thing is that the washed piece of buffalo he sent me look a lot more rough and grainy than the unwashed, but that might just be a coincidence. The other samples that I got both washed and unwashed didn't differ in roughness, really. I'll see what Theodoros says about it. Thank you for the reply!

 

[Robbie79]

Ooh, that sounds and looks nice! The thing is that the washed piece of buffalo he sent me look a lot more rough and grainy than the unwashed, but that might just be a coincidence. The other samples that I got both washed and unwashed didn't differ in roughness, really. I'll see what Theodoros says about it. Thank you for the reply!

As Marc said it's not kind of distressing the leather and if you would see the result you would agree that it's not distressed. However Theodoros asked me if he should tread/wash the deerskin and I agreed as my 4 other Thedi leather jackets got this unique treatment as well. You need to talk to him directly and I think he can better explain than I ever can do as he's the expert and I'm just a guy who loves his jackets and his special treatments which none else can offer this way in my experience.

 

[tedobs]

Yeah, I've asked him and am waiting for a reply. If the treatment is not destructive then I see no reason not to let hem do it.

 

[navetsea]

to me washed sample look like the leather has contacted water, how the grain popping etc, whether the following step is applying oil and wax once the leather is dry that's is a logical step to replenish the oil and softness, probably why it takes him several days to do.
leather contacting water is non destructive, that's for sure.

destructive is belt sander, bleach, dragging the jacket behind a pickup truck, etc.

 

[Logician]

Greetings,

I'm looking to buy a leather trench coat. These prove very hard to find, the only one I can find that I really like is one made by lost worlds. http://www.lostworldsinc.com/Vintage_Trench_Coat.htm I've been e-mailing back and forth with Stuart, who I suppose runs LW, and he has been very kind and helpful (despite his reputation on the internet). For sizing he asked only my height and weight and said it should be either a 40 or a 42. He can't send me one to try on, because he says the trench is a custom order and he has none to send.

My questions are the following:

• How do I decide between 40 and 42? (I've never owned a well fitting jacket)
• Do you know of any other high quality leather trench coats on the market today?(I live in Belgium, the closer the better)
• is $2250 overpriced? In general, why is Lost Worlds so much more expensive than Aero for example?
• Should I go for it?

I'm eager to hear what the forum has to say. Feel free to express any opinion you might have on the subject!

Thomas

I have a BK LW COURIER PEA COAT made of Goatskin. My first goat ever (except for a second hand seal brown A2 that I never wear). Anyway, I suggest Goatskin or Deerskin for your Trenchcoat rather than HH because it drapes better. However it might be difficult to find such large pieces needed for a Trenchcoat (obviously goats are smaller than horses!) I can say that the Goatskin on my Pea coat is very nice, no breaking needed and plenty of character. But it's a little too thin for my liking---I usually choose 4.0+ HH for my leather jackets. Hence, it feels a bit light for me. Still I believe that for that particular design goat or deer is the way to go. Same for the Trenchcoat. I'm not sure what a 3.0 oz (let alone a 4.0 + oz) HH LW Trenchcoat would feel like? Heavy that's for sure. I have a classic Peat coat made of 3.5 oz HH with an cashmere lining. Wearing it all day with a thick jumper can be tiring at times. I don't have this problem with the LW Pea coat in Goatskin.

 

[tedobs]

IT IS DONE!!!!!

I've ordered a Thedi coat in unwashed cognac buffalo. https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-1279400/
The custom options are as follows: Inside pocket on both sides, lengthened to 1m and without the epaulettes that are on the shoulders of the original.

I want to thank Theodoros and everyone who has replied to this thread. This is the first time I've bought such a high quality piece of clothing and I felt a lot of pressure to get it right. I've taken every single response I've gotten into consideration and now I feel no doubt that, thanks to you, I Have made the absolute perfect choice on both design, material and craftsman.

Special thanks to Theodoros who had to be extremely patient with me, but remained helpful and reassuring along every step of the way.

Now comes the hardest part: the waiting.

 

[red devil]

IT IS DONE!!!!!

I've ordered a Thedi coat in unwashed cognac buffalo. https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-1279400/
The custom options are as follows: Inside pocket on both sides, lengthened to 1m and without the epaulettes that are on the shoulders of the original.

I want to thank Theodoros and everyone who has replied to this thread. This is the first time I've bought such a high quality piece of clothing and I felt a lot of pressure to get it right. I've taken every single response I've gotten into consideration and now I feel no doubt that, thanks to you, I Have made the absolute perfect choice on both design, material and craftsman.

Special thanks to Theodoros who had to be extremely patient with me, but remained helpful and reassuring along every step of the way.

Now comes the hardest part: the waiting.

My advice, just forget about it and go on with your other priorities. It will be a nice surprise to get the informed it is being shipped

 

[Robbie79]

IT IS DONE!!!!!

I've ordered a Thedi coat in unwashed cognac buffalo. https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-1279400/
The custom options are as follows: Inside pocket on both sides, lengthened to 1m and without the epaulettes that are on the shoulders of the original.

I want to thank Theodoros and everyone who has replied to this thread. This is the first time I've bought such a high quality piece of clothing and I felt a lot of pressure to get it right. I've taken every single response I've gotten into consideration and now I feel no doubt that, thanks to you, I Have made the absolute perfect choice on both design, material and craftsman.

Special thanks to Theodoros who had to be extremely patient with me, but remained helpful and reassuring along every step of the way.

Now comes the hardest part: the waiting.

@tedobs I'm glad to read that you finally ordered a Thedi coat and that the input of the TFL community was helpful for you. I'm 100% sure that you won't regret ordering from Theodoros and I'm looking forward to seeing this coat in real life - I actually ordered one about 13 months ago but finally decided for another shorter style even though I like it a lot (not on me). Now, the waiting begins

 

[tedobs]

Hello, Everyone

I received this awesome Thedi coat in the mail a few days ago. It’s a really stunning piece. I’ve taken the time to wear it a little before posting.

The leather

I’ve chosen unwashed buffalo and I’m glad I did, it’s perfect.

I was afraid it would be too thin, because the leather sample I received wasn’t that thick, but it’s not too thin at all. It’s a rather hefty coat, which I wanted, and if I had chosen a heavier leather, like horsehide, the coat would’ve hurt my back and shoulders, I suspect. The weight is just right, I feel like a tank wearing it, but It’s not uncomfortable. This is a reoccurring theme with this coat: many things are balanced just right.

The sample was rather shiny, but the coat isn’t. That’s good, the colour of the coat is really great. It already has stunning patina and the creases that are forming have a nice look to them. I can feel the coat conforming to my body more and more every day.

Another thing that amazes me: The coat is made out of enormous cuts of leather. This definitely adds to its elegance.

The exterior design

The coat doesn’t look obscene, or flashy, or overly macho. Obviously it’s a huge piece of leather outerwear, so it doesn’t need any help standing out. I’m very glad that apart from it being a leather trench coat, there are no unnecessary aesthetic features. The design is in fact very subtle, sober and elegant. This is just so perfect! It being a huge leather coat is all the flair it needs and its basic concept just shines! When wearing it I feel I look like a gentleman, a nice person to talk to, someone to trust. That just goes to show the amount of taste and style that has gone into it. I’d never expect a leather coat to look as civilized and respectable as it does.

Something I miss in this coat that my other coats do have is a split down the tail of the coat. Not having it makes it less practical to sit down with, drive a car, that sort of thing. I don’t know if it’s really a problem or just something I need to get used to. I see it as a result of it being a sort of unique prototype, which is a fact I’m proud of.

It’s slightly shorter than my old coat, but it looks nice. Actually I think it’s really the same length but my old coat just hangs more sloppy, making it look longer.

The collar is just epic! It’s HUGE, I love it, it fits with my hair. It has really incredible stitching on the inside. I’m amazed by how parallel and straight all of these stitches are. In general all of the stitching looks perfect and the thread has a nice colour (Colour is the name of my band BTW https://www.facebook.com/Colourtheoneandonly) .

I appreciate that all of the buttons actually have some use. Most clothing these days has a lot of nonsense buttons and zippers, not this coat. All buttons have a function, awesome! I do regret having to report that the thread of one of the buttons has already come loose and I’ve had to sew the button back on. Luckily I was able to sew through the old thread, so I didn’t have to touch the leather with my needle.

The cuffs an pockets are of an elegant design and, like all the rest, beautifully made.

The fit

It fits very nicely and slim to my body, it really has style. With all of the buttons closed it’s rather restrictive, so I tend to open and close buttons depending on the situation. That said, I have no experience with quality leather jackets and I suspect that it will just loosen up and get more comfortable in time.

The interior design

I don’t know what to say except that it’s just perfect. The wool interior feels like a warm hug every time I wear it, but it doesn’t feel too warm and it doesn’t make me sweaty. The sleeves and inside pockets are lined with some kind of satin, making it easy to get in and out of. Most of all it just looks timeless and stunning.

There is a little leather piece on one of the inside pockets that says “Tomas 08 2021” I wonder If Tomas is the one who made the jacket, or if it’s my name but spelled without the “H”?

Conclusion

The coat is something out of this world. I can have a really good time just looking at it and I feel great wearing it. I’ve spent countless hour researching jackets and annoying jacket makers with pesky e-mails, before ultimately choosing for Thedi. I’m glad I did because the coat looks and feels perfect. All in all it’s a timeless piece I’m really proud to own.

Many thanks to everyone who responded to this thread. You’ve been instrumental in making the right choice.

Many thanks to Theodoros for putting up with all of my questions.

Many thanks to Thedi leathers for doing what they do!

 

[Carlos840]

Hello, Everyone

I received this awesome Thedi coat in the mail a few days ago. It’s a really stunning piece. I’ve taken the time to wear it a little before posting.

The leather

I’ve chosen unwashed buffalo and I’m glad I did, it’s perfect.

I was afraid it would be too thin, because the leather sample I received wasn’t that thick, but it’s not too thin at all. It’s a rather hefty coat, which I wanted, and if I had chosen a heavier leather, like horsehide, the coat would’ve hurt my back and shoulders, I suspect. The weight is just right, I feel like a tank wearing it, but It’s not uncomfortable. This is a reoccurring theme with this coat: many things are balanced just right.

The sample was rather shiny, but the coat isn’t. That’s good, the colour of the coat is really great. It already has stunning patina and the creases that are forming have a nice look to them. I can feel the coat conforming to my body more and more every day.

Another thing that amazes me: The coat is made out of enormous cuts of leather. This definitely adds to its elegance.

The exterior design

The coat doesn’t look obscene, or flashy, or overly macho. Obviously it’s a huge piece of leather outerwear, so it doesn’t need any help standing out. I’m very glad that apart from it being a leather trench coat, there are no unnecessary aesthetic features. The design is in fact very subtle, sober and elegant. This is just so perfect! It being a huge leather coat is all the flair it needs and its basic concept just shines! When wearing it I feel I look like a gentleman, a nice person to talk to, someone to trust. That just goes to show the amount of taste and style that has gone into it. I’d never expect a leather coat to look as civilized and respectable as it does.

Something I miss in this coat that my other coats do have is a split down the tail of the coat. Not having it makes it less practical to sit down with, drive a car, that sort of thing. I don’t know if it’s really a problem or just something I need to get used to. I see it as a result of it being a sort of unique prototype, which is a fact I’m proud of.

It’s slightly shorter than my old coat, but it looks nice. Actually I think it’s really the same length but my old coat just hangs more sloppy, making it look longer.

The collar is just epic! It’s HUGE, I love it, it fits with my hair. It has really incredible stitching on the inside. I’m amazed by how parallel and straight all of these stitches are. In general all of the stitching looks perfect and the thread has a nice colour (Colour is the name of my band BTW https://www.facebook.com/Colourtheoneandonly) .

I appreciate that all of the buttons actually have some use. Most clothing these days has a lot of nonsense buttons and zippers, not this coat. All buttons have a function, awesome! I do regret having to report that the thread of one of the buttons has already come loose and I’ve had to sew the button back on. Luckily I was able to sew through the old thread, so I didn’t have to touch the leather with my needle.

The cuffs an pockets are of an elegant design and, like all the rest, beautifully made.

The fit

It fits very nicely and slim to my body, it really has style. With all of the buttons closed it’s rather restrictive, so I tend to open and close buttons depending on the situation. That said, I have no experience with quality leather jackets and I suspect that it will just loosen up and get more comfortable in time.

The interior design

I don’t know what to say except that it’s just perfect. The wool interior feels like a warm hug every time I wear it, but it doesn’t feel too warm and it doesn’t make me sweaty. The sleeves and inside pockets are lined with some kind of satin, making it easy to get in and out of. Most of all it just looks timeless and stunning.

There is a little leather piece on one of the inside pockets that says “Tomas 08 2021” I wonder If Tomas is the one who made the jacket, or if it’s my name but spelled without the “H”?

Conclusion

The coat is something out of this world. I can have a really good time just looking at it and I feel great wearing it. I’ve spent countless hour researching jackets and annoying jacket makers with pesky e-mails, before ultimately choosing for Thedi. I’m glad I did because the coat looks and feels perfect. All in all it’s a timeless piece I’m really proud to own.

Many thanks to everyone who responded to this thread. You’ve been instrumental in making the right choice.

Many thanks to Theodoros for putting up with all of my questions.

Many thanks to Thedi leathers for doing what they do!


View attachment 355293 View attachment 355294 View attachment 355295 View attachment 355296 View attachment 355297

Really cool coat, and i really like that song you posted on your facebook.
Really sweet bass tone, great playing (especially the last two minutes when you open up), and your drummer really has a great feel.
It reminded me of Sabbath in all the good ways.

 

[Boyo]

Wow! a very unique piece of Thedi Art!.. you wear it well.


I see what you mean about the split hem on the back... that might've come in handy

 

[red devil]

Hello, Everyone

I received this awesome Thedi coat in the mail a few days ago. It’s a really stunning piece. I’ve taken the time to wear it a little before posting.

The leather

I’ve chosen unwashed buffalo and I’m glad I did, it’s perfect.

I was afraid it would be too thin, because the leather sample I received wasn’t that thick, but it’s not too thin at all. It’s a rather hefty coat, which I wanted, and if I had chosen a heavier leather, like horsehide, the coat would’ve hurt my back and shoulders, I suspect. The weight is just right, I feel like a tank wearing it, but It’s not uncomfortable. This is a reoccurring theme with this coat: many things are balanced just right.

The sample was rather shiny, but the coat isn’t. That’s good, the colour of the coat is really great. It already has stunning patina and the creases that are forming have a nice look to them. I can feel the coat conforming to my body more and more every day.

Another thing that amazes me: The coat is made out of enormous cuts of leather. This definitely adds to its elegance.

The exterior design

The coat doesn’t look obscene, or flashy, or overly macho. Obviously it’s a huge piece of leather outerwear, so it doesn’t need any help standing out. I’m very glad that apart from it being a leather trench coat, there are no unnecessary aesthetic features. The design is in fact very subtle, sober and elegant. This is just so perfect! It being a huge leather coat is all the flair it needs and its basic concept just shines! When wearing it I feel I look like a gentleman, a nice person to talk to, someone to trust. That just goes to show the amount of taste and style that has gone into it. I’d never expect a leather coat to look as civilized and respectable as it does.

Something I miss in this coat that my other coats do have is a split down the tail of the coat. Not having it makes it less practical to sit down with, drive a car, that sort of thing. I don’t know if it’s really a problem or just something I need to get used to. I see it as a result of it being a sort of unique prototype, which is a fact I’m proud of.

It’s slightly shorter than my old coat, but it looks nice. Actually I think it’s really the same length but my old coat just hangs more sloppy, making it look longer.

The collar is just epic! It’s HUGE, I love it, it fits with my hair. It has really incredible stitching on the inside. I’m amazed by how parallel and straight all of these stitches are. In general all of the stitching looks perfect and the thread has a nice colour (Colour is the name of my band BTW https://www.facebook.com/Colourtheoneandonly) .

I appreciate that all of the buttons actually have some use. Most clothing these days has a lot of nonsense buttons and zippers, not this coat. All buttons have a function, awesome! I do regret having to report that the thread of one of the buttons has already come loose and I’ve had to sew the button back on. Luckily I was able to sew through the old thread, so I didn’t have to touch the leather with my needle.

The cuffs an pockets are of an elegant design and, like all the rest, beautifully made.

The fit

It fits very nicely and slim to my body, it really has style. With all of the buttons closed it’s rather restrictive, so I tend to open and close buttons depending on the situation. That said, I have no experience with quality leather jackets and I suspect that it will just loosen up and get more comfortable in time.

The interior design

I don’t know what to say except that it’s just perfect. The wool interior feels like a warm hug every time I wear it, but it doesn’t feel too warm and it doesn’t make me sweaty. The sleeves and inside pockets are lined with some kind of satin, making it easy to get in and out of. Most of all it just looks timeless and stunning.

There is a little leather piece on one of the inside pockets that says “Tomas 08 2021” I wonder If Tomas is the one who made the jacket, or if it’s my name but spelled without the “H”?

Conclusion

The coat is something out of this world. I can have a really good time just looking at it and I feel great wearing it. I’ve spent countless hour researching jackets and annoying jacket makers with pesky e-mails, before ultimately choosing for Thedi. I’m glad I did because the coat looks and feels perfect. All in all it’s a timeless piece I’m really proud to own.

Many thanks to everyone who responded to this thread. You’ve been instrumental in making the right choice.

Many thanks to Theodoros for putting up with all of my questions.

Many thanks to Thedi leathers for doing what they do!


View attachment 355293 View attachment 355294 View attachment 355295 View attachment 355296 View attachment 355297

You really did your homework oon this one and it shows! You started by considering top level makers, and zeroed in to such a unique jacket. It is fantastic!