Homburg Nation

[bowlerman]

Thanks Wise Hatter for the screen grabs. I know a homburg isn't supposed to have a pinch but I think it often works well. I have no problem wearing a homburg either way but here in England the traditionalists sometimes like to "advise" me the pinch isn't correct. I don't care - a lot of people used to pinch their homburg back in the days. Anyone else agree? Does anyone here stick rigidly to the protocol?

My overwhelming impression, strictly from my participation here at the lounge, is that dents on a homburg are fine. I recall some of the general classifications here have to do more with the brim curl, binding, and particular width of the ribbon, as well as a bit about having enough crown height to make a nice deep center crease. millerhats.com has a homburg page that would support these sentiments as well, showing at least 3 different creases in their homburgs.
Someone feel free to correct me.

 

[DanielJones]

Thanks for the screen grab TWH, and thanks for the comments about the pinch gang. I suppose if you;re going for a more casual look the pinch is ok, but in a formal setting it would be best if the crown hat that nice crisp look to it.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[mayserwegener]

Side dents are ok but avoid a tight pinch.

For example this early 1960s P. & C. Habig (Wien) Homburg was factory blocked with side dents.

Another early 1960s P. & C. Habig Homburg with factory blocked side dents.

 

[alanfgag]

agreed... simple center dent + wide shallow pinches = :thumb:

 

[mercuryfelt76]

Thanks, I totally agree with everything you all said. A tight pinch is too much for a homburg but two dents looks classy. Mayserwegener: thanks for the pics they look gorgeous. The bow on the P & C Habig looks fantastic. Now that you mention pre-blocked dents I've just remembered even Lock & Co make homburgs with factory blocked side dents. I also love some of the western homburgs which have a bash like the hat in Alanfgag's avatar.

 

[OT1899]

Side dents are ok but avoid a tight pinch.

For example this early 1960s P. & C. Habig (Wien) Homburg was factory blocked with side dents.

Another early 1960s P. & C. Habig Homburg with factory blocked side dents.

________

I think the side dents look great on some hats and for certain occasions ... all the more reason to have more than one homburg, I suppose!?!

Also, mayserwegener, if you don't mind me asking, where did you find those clear crown and brim protectors on the hats in the background of your pics? I have a couple that came with my custom hats, but I've been unable to find a source for those so I buy some for the other hats in my collection. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks!

 

[mayserwegener]

Prior to the late 50s they would have came open crown. With open crown it's easy to add and remove side dents. If you add side dents the P. & C. Habig factory blocked hats are great examples to follow. They definitely adhere to formal protocol.

I sent you a PM regarding the plastic hat covers.

 

[TCMfan25]

Josh & Alan, Thanks!

Billy, You inspired me to update my personal Homburg Nation!

:eeek::eeek::eeek: I hate looking at your collection, because everytime I shed a tear or two!

Could any possibly be 7 3/8?

 

[bowlerman]

You just had to quote mayserwegener's image there, didn't you, TCM!
ouch-- that is so impressive.
Here's an interesting thing:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...2&sid=IDx20070921x00003c&i_cntr=1311739445220
It may not be a cup of tea for most folks around here, but I felt kind of encouraged to see them being sold through a major department store.

 

[mayserwegener]

:eeek::eeek::eeek: I hate looking at your collection, because everytime I shed a tear or two!

Could any possibly be 7 3/8?

That is my size too so yes. I have sold of few of these already. Send me a PM regarding what you are looking for.

Bowlerman, That is an interesting find! I sense the Homburg bug is kinda catching on here.

 

[mercuryfelt76]

I've just bought 2 more 1940s black homburgs in a vintage shop in Bath, England. I'll take some pictures and post em here.

 

[mercuryfelt76]

I'm not sure what make this one is:







This one is a Dunn & Co Ltd:

 

[mayserwegener]

Nice pickups! I can't make out the liner logo on the first one. I believe there is a FL thread discussing Dunn & Co. logo dating.

 

[DanielJones]

Just received this ebay win today. It is in fantastic shape. I'm unsure of the age. The seller advertised it as 1930's. It is "The Longworth" created by Long's.

Any of the Homburg aficionados know any history of this brand of hat? Under the sweatband is the original price tag of "$4.50, Mail Order Department". It also reads that Long's was out of New York. Would that be a department store? Would love to know more about it and it's time frame. I will try to get clear images of the tags under the sweatband if that will help.

Anyway, this lid is in fantastic shape, the leather sweatband is soft and pliable, which is good because it needs a little stretching out to comfortably fit my noggin. I'll let it set with the stretcher for a couple of days before I get some pics wearing it. The felt is quite soft and pliable and sort of velvety to the touch. It is a very clean black and the satin liner is pretty clean too. No smokey odors, just a little storage age scent. Wearing it a few times will take care of that. So I think I have my "Bertie" homburg.

Again, any help in identifying the label would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[mayserwegener]

Fantastic Homburg! I have no information on the make but I would say 1930s or 1940s maybe very early 1950s.

 

[Brad Bowers]

We just talked about this hat somewhere here. It's actually made by Adam.

Brad

 

[DanielJones]

Ah, I see. That is good to know. Well it will have an honorable place next to my Adam Premier for sure. I know that one was a little under sized for me when I first got it. A little stretching and it has fit perfectly ever since.
Thanks for the heads-up on that Brad.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[hubbit]

I have a Biltmore Imperial Homburg in Slate Grey that I bought 6 or 7 years ago. It has a center dent but no side dents, which is how I've always understood the Homburg was supposed to be like; however, I see side dents and even front pinches on some of the vintage 'burgs in this thread. The Akubra Homburg on Hats Direct is shown with a center dent and front pinches; it's actually sent out with a soft, bashable open crown.

Is there a standard preference for pinch/dent or no pinch/dent in a Homburg? I've been experimenting with side pinches and dents in my Biltmore, but I get the impression that this wasn't really designed for what I'm doing to it.

 

[mayserwegener]

Center crease with or without side dents is standard. If you go with side dents don't make them tight. This early 1960s factory blocked P. & C. Habig (Vienna) Homburg is a good one to copy if you have an open crown and want to appy side dents.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35848-Homburg-Nation&p=1271628&viewfull=1#post1271628

 

[Joshbru3]

Again, any help in identifying the label would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Cheers!

Dan

Dan, I do believe that the Longworth hats were made by Longs Hats which are the same people who made the LongRoyal for ADAM in the 30's and early 40's. I have owned one fedora made by them which was too big on me so I sold it. There have only been a couple hats made by Longs (whether for their own brand distribution or for ADAM) that have been found on the lounge and I would consider it VERY rare.

Heres the sweatband markings from mine:

Here is a quote from another thread where Billy explains alittle about the LongRoyal ADAM-LONGS connection. The liner in your hat is very similar to the LongRoyals made by longs and I would not doubt it if that hat was made in the late 30's or very early 40's. Its a beautiful homburg!!

In my research on Adam I have discovered that they did not make their own hats until 1953, 29 years after the company's inception, until that time they had only been a wholesale and retail company.

I was intrigued as to who had made their hats until that point.
Thankfully I have some starting points in the liners and logo's used.

The first one I can now reveal, that made at least some of their hats is a company under the Knox Hat Co., Inc. (well they were purchased in 1927 by them and were still operating under that umbrella in 1929). The company was named Long's Hat Stores Corp. My starting point for this was Rick Blaine's LONGROYAL. I was trying to find a Hat company that used a similar designation, and finally I came across this ad from 1942 for Long's Hats. Notice the featured at all Adam Hat Stores at the bottom and the model name of Long Royal.

Also compare the logos:

1942 Longs Hats AD