Hat Stretchers

[CKC]

Yes, that is what I use....just a solid wood band block, 1 1/2" thick cut to the shape of my head.

I'm working on one right now. Should be done in an hour or 2.

By the way..thank you for your contributions here. As I've spent time going back through many threads here recently I've found many, many things you've said to be very informative and helpful. You clearly have a lot of knowledge to share and I appreciate your willingness to pass it along to fellow loungers.

Best regards,
Chad

 

[CKC]

Duhh….feeling pretty ignorant here.
Can’t believe i/nobody ever thought of this before.
Re-shape a hat stretcher to your head shape!!
Simple genius @CKC!!
B

I tried to re-shape the hat stretchers I had at first. But, when I used the curve guides to trace the shape of my head I unfortunately found out the widest part of my head was wider than the widest part of the hat stretcher AND was forward of the front of the rear section of the hat stretcher. So, there was effectively no way for me to make what I had work for the fat end of my head. It wasn't far off though, so I have a feeling most people will be better able to modify the existing hat stretchers in a way that will accommodate their head dimensions, but I really don't know. When one makes a tracing of their head they'll be able to see if an existing jack will work.

 

[belfastboy]

I'm working on one right now. Should be done in an hour or 2.

By the way..thank you for your contributions here. As I've spent time going back through many threads here recently I've found many, many things you've said to be very informative and helpful. You clearly have a lot of knowledge to share and I appreciate your willingness to pass it along to fellow loungers.

Best regards,
Chad

you are very welcome. This Lounge is a very special place and I am glad to be able to contribute in some small way.

 

[CKC]

Looking at the footprint of your stretcher I would venture that the front of your head is in the Extra Long Oval territory. I have only ever made one hat for someone that was a true XLong Oval and I won't venture to do it again. I blocked it on a Long Oval block and then using a hat jack that I sanded down the front to match the XLong Oval shape I was able to get it close without totally screwing up the crown shape. Even then he was so extreme that there was still a slight gap at the temples but not that visible. I could not charge enough to make the number of hours involved worth while. You do beautiful work and congrats on getting your hats to fit.

Yeah, I read about you having done this in another thread.

I don't know what kind of hat or what shape brim you were making in that instance. But, knowing the shape all hats automatically move toward when I put them on, I can't imagine blocking a hat for my head and also trying to maintain a flat brim (don't know if you did that or not). That would seem like a nearly impossible challenge to me.

This is the first time I've been able to get my hats to feel right and it's like I've unlocked a whole new world. I'm finally feeling what normal people feel when they put their hats on!

 

[belfastboy]

Yeah, I read about you having done this in another thread.

I don't know what kind of hat or what shape brim you were making in that instance. But, knowing the shape all hats automatically move toward when I put them on, I can't imagine blocking a hat for my head and also trying to maintain a flat brim (don't know if you did that or not). That would seem like a nearly impossible challenge to me.

This is the first time I've been able to get my hats to feel right and it's like I've unlocked a whole new world. I'm finally feeling what normal people feel when they put their hats on!

The hat was for my good friend...otherwise I would have declined! He wanted to replicate a Winston Churchill's Homburg so it was a challenge to get the head shape right without totally screwing up the needed round shape of the crown. On a long oval hat my friend would have a two finger gap at the temple on each side....and very very noticeable.

 

[Yahoody]

CKC? You obviously have the skills to build what ever you want. Which I admire I bought Mart jacks in 7 3/8 and 7 1/2 I think. Or may be it was by measured size, I don't remember as it has been awhile . One is more narrow than the other. Over all sizing cna be adjusted by the turnbuckles obviously. Either way I have a serious long oval head. So it takes an actual custom felt hat to have one fit my noggin. But even the custom makers are generally limited by what they start with. And the longer a hat sets the more likely it is going to go back to the shape of the original block the body was shaped on. I make my own hats now with my own custom block and I rotate through my better felts, ( any hat really) using a Mart block to get them close to my head shape again. Been stretching and reshaping my Sunbody hats most recently.

If you ever want to make a block or two in similar sizes and want a pattern, I'd consider loaning them short term to get you started. And I'd buy a couple of them.

For Mart quality I don't think $150 retail is asking too much.

>I can't imagine blocking a hat for my head and also trying to maintain a flat brim.

Folks will surely claim other wise Those that have a serious long oval head are likely destined to never wear a good felt hat with a big, flat brim. I've done it but a lot easier to do other wise.

Guessing Sam Elliot is a serious long oval. Kurt Russel isn't.

 

[belfastboy]

CKC? You obviously have the skills to build what ever you want. Which I admire I bought Mart jacks in 7 3/8 and 7 1/2 I think. Or may be it was by measured size, I don't remember as it has been awhile . One is more narrow than the other. Over all sizing cna be adjusted by the turnbuckles obviously. Either way I have a serious long oval head. So it takes an actual custom felt hat to have one fit my noggin. But even the custom makers are generally limited by what they start with. And the longer a hat sets the more likely it is going to go back to the shape of the original block the body was shaped on. I make my own hats now with my own custom block and I rotate through my better felts, ( any hat really) using a Mart block to get them close to my head shape again. Been stretching and reshaping my Sunbody hats most recently.

If you ever want to make a block or two in similar sizes and want a pattern, I'd consider loaning them short term to get you started. And I'd buy a couple of them.

For Mart quality I don't think $150 retail is asking too much.

>I can't imagine blocking a hat for my head and also trying to maintain a flat brim.

Folks will surely claim other wise Those that have a serious long oval head are likely destined to never wear a good felt hat with a big, flat brim. I've done it but a lot easier to do other wise.

Guessing Sam Elliot is a serious long oval. Kurt Russel isn't.
View attachment 519698

I would love to have a conversation with an old time western hat maker. Love to pick his brain on how he handles those extra long oval boys without ending up with the huge gap at the temples. Especially hard to fit with those heavy and stiff western weight felts.

 

[Who?]

I just beat the internet to a froth, and I can’t find a word.

I tried both “Sam Elliot’s hat size” and “Sam Elliot’s head size“.

No joy.

 

[CKC]

CKC? You obviously have the skills to build what ever you want. Which I admire I bought Mart jacks in 7 3/8 and 7 1/2 I think. Or may be it was by measured size, I don't remember as it has been awhile . One is more narrow than the other. Over all sizing cna be adjusted by the turnbuckles obviously. Either way I have a serious long oval head. So it takes an actual custom felt hat to have one fit my noggin. But even the custom makers are generally limited by what they start with. And the longer a hat sets the more likely it is going to go back to the shape of the original block the body was shaped on. I make my own hats now with my own custom block and I rotate through my better felts, ( any hat really) using a Mart block to get them close to my head shape again. Been stretching and reshaping my Sunbody hats most recently.

If you ever want to make a block or two in similar sizes and want a pattern, I'd consider loaning them short term to get you started. And I'd buy a couple of them.

For Mart quality I don't think $150 retail is asking too much.

>I can't imagine blocking a hat for my head and also trying to maintain a flat brim.

Folks will surely claim other wise Those that have a serious long oval head are likely destined to never wear a good felt hat with a big, flat brim. I've done it but a lot easier to do other wise.

Guessing Sam Elliot is a serious long oval. Kurt Russel isn't.
View attachment 519698

It sounds to me like you and I have very similar hat fitting issues.

It's great to hear you make your own hats. I can really appreciate what a big step that is. If you'd like me to make some custom blocks for you I'd probably be able to help out at some point in the not-too-distant future. At the moment I've got limited time for these projects and I'm very early in the learning curve here. I'll learn more and get better at making blocks quickly enough. In a month or 2 I should have a better handle on the process.

I've seen Tombstone at least a dozen times and I could watch it 100 more. Great movie! Looking at that picture I immediately see a kinship with Sam. That curve is something all of my hats have to adjust to. Some hats are more willing than others. I'm a little bit jealous of all the other guys that can pull off those perfectly flat, round brims. Those are cool hats that are simply not within the realm of consideration for me. The whole issue really complicates my ability to put together a perfect Doc Holiday costume .

 

[CKC]

I tried to make myself a custom shaped block over the past 2 days but I messed it up. It seemed like a pretty good plan until I got elbow deep in it.

I was planning to be a little more precise with the 3-D shaping by using 4 separate parallel tracings and laminating them together.

But I quickly realized this was more complicated than I had envisioned when I cut each layer. In order to get all of the contours to blend together correctly you need to make each layer oversized and blend them down to a template between the layers. My paper templates were not going to work for that. Steel templates would have been a great way to go (next time).

Unfortunately I figured out the process challenges a little too late for this one. I had already cut each level down to the exact size and when it was time to blend them together the only possible result was a smaller block than I had intended. All finished it's about 1 full size smaller than I wanted. Oh well, I learned.

This one would work fine if I want to turn it into a hat stretcher. But, I was planning to make my next few hat stretchers 1.5" thick and this block is about 3". So, being slightly undersized but still my head shape I figured it would also make a good hat stand. All I needed to do was scrounge up some materials to make a stand. I found a piece of maple and some copper pipe fittings in the shop, and bing-bang-boom I have a hat stand.

Next time, fingers crossed, I plan to end up with a hat block.

 

[ILB Frank]

I tried to make myself a custom shaped block over the past 2 days but I messed it up. It seemed like a pretty good plan until I got elbow deep in it.

I was planning to be a little more precise with the 3-D shaping by using 4 separate parallel tracings and laminating them together.

But I quickly realized this was more complicated than I had envisioned when I cut each layer. In order to get all of the contours to blend together correctly you need to make each layer oversized and blend them down to a template between the layers. My paper templates were not going to work for that. Steel templates would have been a great way to go (next time).

Unfortunately I figured out the process challenges a little too late for this one. I had already cut each level down to the exact size and when it was time to blend them together the only possible result was a smaller block than I had intended. All finished it's about 1 full size smaller than I wanted. Oh well, I learned.

This one would work fine if I want to turn it into a hat stretcher. But, I was planning to make my next few hat stretchers 1.5" thick and this block is about 3". So, being slightly undersized but still my head shape I figured it would also make a good hat stand. All I needed to do was scrounge up some materials to make a stand. I found a piece of maple and some copper pipe fittings in the shop, and bing-bang-boom I have a hat stand.

Next time, fingers crossed, I plan to end up with a hat block.

Waste not, want not.
Excellent re-purpose.

 

[belfastboy]

I tried to make myself a custom shaped block over the past 2 days but I messed it up. It seemed like a pretty good plan until I got elbow deep in it.

I was planning to be a little more precise with the 3-D shaping by using 4 separate parallel tracings and laminating them together.

But I quickly realized this was more complicated than I had envisioned when I cut each layer. In order to get all of the contours to blend together correctly you need to make each layer oversized and blend them down to a template between the layers. My paper templates were not going to work for that. Steel templates would have been a great way to go (next time).

Unfortunately I figured out the process challenges a little too late for this one. I had already cut each level down to the exact size and when it was time to blend them together the only possible result was a smaller block than I had intended. All finished it's about 1 full size smaller than I wanted. Oh well, I learned.

This one would work fine if I want to turn it into a hat stretcher. But, I was planning to make my next few hat stretchers 1.5" thick and this block is about 3". So, being slightly undersized but still my head shape I figured it would also make a good hat stand. All I needed to do was scrounge up some materials to make a stand. I found a piece of maple and some copper pipe fittings in the shop, and bing-bang-boom I have a hat stand.

Next time, fingers crossed, I plan to end up with a hat block.

I have band blocks from custom hatters that fitted me with a conformateur on my first visit. The band blocks are cut from 1 1/2" thick wood. They are designed to fit in the hat just at the contact with the leather sweat to keep the sweat and hat conformed to your head shape only at the contact points with the head. I just cut mine from a 2" x 8" fir plank....and use my edge sander to finish. You only want the sweat to conform to your Extra Long Oval shape not the entire crown lest you end up with a 'racing sloop' front to the hat's crown.

 

[CKC]

I have band blocks from custom hatters that fitted me with a conformateur on my first visit. The band blocks are cut from 1 1/2" thick wood. They are designed to fit in the hat just at the contact with the leather sweat to keep the sweat and hat conformed to your head shape only at the contact points with the head. I just cut mine from a 2" x 8" fir plank....and use my edge sander to finish. You only want the sweat to conform to your Extra Long Oval shape not the entire crown lest you end up with a 'racing sloop' front to the hat's crown.

Thank you. I appreciate the knowledge. I'm learning as I go and getting tips from people like you is very helpful.

I'm approaching hat blocks the same way I approach designing a new knife. It would be easy to look up the best blocks I can find and copy what I see. But, I prefer to force myself not to look at any existing examples and just try to think it through myself. I'm guaranteed to make mistakes along the way. It's in the overcoming of the mistakes that I tend to find the deepest understanding of the subject. To some it may seem like I'm wasting time "re-inventing the wheel" but for me it's about developing real understanding of a design.

For example, now that I've built a 3" tall "block" (hat stand) I can see exactly what it does and exactly why I would prefer it to be 1.5" tall. I can now fully understand why you suggest it be no taller than the sweat band. Had I started at 1.5" tall because I had seen one that size I may have never fully understood the significance of that design decision or what exactly would change if I were to make a different choice there. The same thinking applies to every little design detail in everything I design. In a way, I've come to cherish the mistakes almost more than the results. I've come to realize that obstacles and challenges are literally gateways to growth and the more of them I get to overcome the more I grow as a maker.

Hopefully my next block will be a good one. Please don't hesitate to tell me anything you see that can be improved. Advice from knowledgeable sources like yourself is greatly appreciated..

 

[belfastboy]

Thank you. I appreciate the knowledge. I'm learning as I go and getting tips from people like you is very helpful.

I'm approaching hat blocks the same way I approach designing a new knife. It would be easy to look up the best blocks I can find and copy what I see. But, I prefer to force myself not to look at any existing examples and just try to think it through myself. I'm guaranteed to make mistakes along the way. It's in the overcoming of the mistakes that I tend to find the deepest understanding of the subject. To some it may seem like I'm wasting time "re-inventing the wheel" but for me it's about developing real understanding of a design.

For example, now that I've built a 3" tall "block" (hat stand) I can see exactly what it does and exactly why I would prefer it to be 1.5" tall. I can now fully understand why you suggest it be no taller than the sweat band. Had I started at 1.5" tall because I had seen one that size I may have never fully understood the significance of that design decision or what exactly would change if I were to make a different choice there. The same thinking applies to every little design detail in everything I design. In a way, I've come to cherish the mistakes almost more than the results. I've come to realize that obstacles and challenges are literally gateways to growth and the more of them I get to overcome the more I grow as a maker.

Hopefully my next block will be a good one. Please don't hesitate to tell me anything you see that can be improved. Advice from knowledgeable sources like yourself is greatly appreciated..

If I had another life to lead I would venture into block & flange making. I did make myself a flange just to have the experience. It was fun but damn it took sooo much time I decided I was better left to make hats and let the woodworkers make the flanges. At my age I have come to fully appreciate enjoying the process because really that is all there is....it is all just process.

 

[CKC]

If I had another life to lead I would venture into block & flange making. I did make myself a flange just to have the experience. It was fun but damn it took sooo much time I decided I was better left to make hats and let the woodworkers make the flanges. At my age I have come to fully appreciate enjoying the process because really that is all there is....it is all just process.

I hear you! Life is not about reaching a destination, it's entirely about the journey.

Flanges sound like a fun next step for me. For the moment, I have a lot of progress left to make with my block making abilities.

 

[belfastboy]

I hear you! Life is not about reaching a destination, it's entirely about the journey.

Flanges sound like a fun next step for me. For the moment, I have a lot of progress left to make with my block making abilities.

I have shopped the world for blocks. I have some from a 3rd generation block maker in Poland, hand carved and works of art.

I have some new ones from a local guy made on a CNC machine. They are very good and will last generations but you can't beat the beauty and aesthetics of the hand formed ones.

 

[chivaceae]

I tried to re-shape the hat stretchers I had at first. But, when I used the curve guides to trace the shape of my head I unfortunately found out the widest part of my head was wider than the widest part of the hat stretcher AND was forward of the front of the rear section of the hat stretcher. So, there was effectively no way for me to make what I had work for the fat end of my head. It wasn't far off though, so I have a feeling most people will be better able to modify the existing hat stretchers in a way that will accommodate their head dimensions, but I really don't know. When one makes a tracing of their head they'll be able to see if an existing jack will work.

Chad and all,

I had a cheap generic stretcher and a "fancier" Haibeir stretcher with adjustable, rubber-band tensioned side blocks (available in Amazon, but cheaper on eBay). I knew the cheap stretcher was off from my head profile and thought the Haibeir was a closer, better fit.

So following Chad's ideas I went ahead and tried to trace my head on paper, using a contour gauge and a large caliper I had available at my place of work (I am a research horticulturist, so we take all kinds of measurements of plants and crops).

Lo and behold, the Haiber stretcher pretty much mimics my head profile, whereas the generic stretcher needs some reprofiling (slimming) on the front block (sides). I have a long oval shape, with a 1.25 to 1 ratio length to width on my paper-drawn profile. Now I am attempting to do the reprofile of the front block of the cheap stretcher with an inexpensive Harbor Freight 1" belt sander).

Here are some photos:

Thanks for the inspiration!

Raul

 

[CKC]

Chad and all,

I had a cheap generic stretcher and a "fancier" Haibeir stretcher with adjustable, rubber-band tensioned side blocks (available in Amazon, but cheaper on eBay). I knew the cheap stretcher was off from my head profile and thought the Haibeir was a closer, better fit.

So following Chad's ideas I went ahead and tried to trace my head on paper, using a contour gauge and a large caliper I had available at my place of work (I am a research horticulturist, so we take all kinds of measurements of plants and crops).

Lo and behold, the Haiber stretcher pretty much mimics my head profile, whereas the generic stretcher needs some reprofiling (slimming) on the front block (sides). I have a long oval shape, with a 1.25 to 1 ratio on my oval shaped head. I am attempting to do the reprofile of the front block of the cheap stretcher with a cheap 1" belt sander).

Here are some photos:

View attachment 520076

View attachment 520077

View attachment 520078

View attachment 520080

Thanks for the inspiration!

Raul

Fantastic! I love that you're doing your own custom shaping!

You are incredibly fortunate that the Haibeir shape is so close to your own already. Now your other stretcher will be better than it's ever been for you as well.

I have had two of those 1x30 grinders in the past, and they are little workhorses. You can do a lot with that grinder and it's pretty ideal for the type of modification you're doing.

 

[CKC]

I finally had time to finish the last few steps I had planned for my first hat stretcher. I wanted some sort of visual reference points to make it quick and easy to see if the stretcher was aligned perfectly inside of the hat. I used some abalone I picked up at a rock show in the Winter/seasonal town of Quartzsite, AZ. Final step was to sand the whole thing down to 2500 grit, and I'm calling it done.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I finally had time to finish the last few steps I had planned for my first hat stretcher. I wanted some sort of visual reference points to make it quick and easy to see if the stretcher was aligned perfectly inside of the hat. I used some abalone I picked up at a rock show in the Winter/seasonal town of Quartzsite, AZ. Final step was to sand the whole thing down to 2500 grit, and I'm calling it done.

Great job in every aspect. I envy your skills and appreciate the craftsmanship.

I’ve visited Quartzsite a few times…close to 30 years ago. It’s an experience.