Guide for first fedora/hat

[Creeping Past]

I'm feeling my way slowly with hats, as they are still a mysterious subject for me. I've taken to wearing a beret over the past couple of years, which has worked out fine. Last summer I tried a panama and liked it so much that I got a cheap okayish quality brown trilby for the autumn. And I like that, too. My tam o'shanter trials are ongoing (for outdoor pursuits only; I'm too timid to wear one around town).

Now that I officially like hats, I'm dreaming of a grey fur felt fedora, which should go with everything I own. I'm in the UK and have a budget of 75GBP. I'm somewhere between 7 3/8 and 7 1/2.

I've been reading various threads and have seen many styles I like, but what do you think? Which brand/type/make should I go for? Yes, I've looked on Ebay. But I'm hoping for personal recommendations that'll help me pick the right used or new hat.

Cheers,

CP

 

[Aerol]

Hornet Hats

Try these guys: http://hornetshats.com/index.php

I have no experience with them, but they have a few retail locations where you could try on hats. And best of all, they appear to be in your price range.

 

[Creeping Past]

Well, I guess the other 'my first hat' thread soaked up all the anecdotes. [huh]

Thanks, Aerol, for your suggestion. It's in my price range, it's local-ish and I can try before I buy.

Hornets, here I come.

 

[rrog]

Just now reading this thread, so I'll give my two cents... I'd go with anything Akubra! I don't know how an Akubra fits into you budget, but I've purchased two in the last two months here in the states, and they've both been under $75 USD. Other than that, I'd consider a cheap hat off of eBay. Sure, there are some risks involved, but I got one hat for under $20, shipping included. It's a nice Stetson fur felt, so it was definitely worth the money.

Good luck in your quest,
rrog

 

[Creeping Past]

Thanks for that, rrog. I bought an Akubra when I was last in Australia a few years ago. But the pound's nose-dived recently and they're a little out of my range right now.

Various online and local shops stock Akubra, but generally only the ones people associate with Australian and outdoors style. From what I've seen, the more fedora-looking ones done get a look in over here, for some reason.

I've been looking at Stetson, etc., on Ebay and seeing that the prices can be keen. But I'm all at sea as to which types to go for. Would you mind my asking what model you bought for $20? That sounds like my kind of hat!

 

[rrog]

I don't know what the exact model is. It's supposedly from the 60's. After I bought it and received it in the mail, I emailed the lady who sold it to me and she said her husband bought it in the 60's, wore it twice and didn't like it and put it up in the closet and never got it out again. It says "Stetson Royal Deluxe" on it. But it has nothing else to indicate a model or style. It's a very dark greenish/grey color with a black ribbon. It originally had a center dent only in the crown. But I've rebashed it into a teardrop with a front pinch. I like it with once exception. The brim is just under two inches and I don't think a stingy brim fits my face very well. But as far as getting one on eBay, I'd just look until you find something you like.

rrog

 

[billyspew]

Having recently been looking around for places in the UK to buy hats here's my opinions:

Hornets Hats - There are 3 stores in Kensington, each one has different styles and colours, all within 2 minutes walk of each other (2 of them are 10 seconds away from each other).
Styles are good, quality OK. You might find the range in shop limited, so might be worth trying them on in store and ordering online.

Bates & Co - Typical Jermyn Street prices (out of your range) but they regularly have "sale" items on a hat rack inside for about 55GBP. OK quality (though a lot of them are not lined).
http://www.bates-hats.co.uk

Lock & Co - Don't bother - pricey.

Hat Centre - Based in Stoke Newington area of London, not been there myself but in your price range.
http://www.hatcentre.co.uk/

Radio Days - Located near Waterloo Station, has new vintage style fedoras and a smaller selection of vintage hats. At just under 50GBP.
http://radiodaysvintage.co.uk/

You also have Camden Market which has a lot of places with vintage and vintage style hats for much cheaper (about 20GBP) but can be a bit hit and miss.

Hope that helps.

Bill

 

[Lefty]

Stetson Saxon: a classic starter hat - it was my first hat too.
The crown isn't too high, the brim isn't too wide and, in gray, it goes with everything. Eventually, you'll want something taller, wider, (much) higher quality, etc., but this has been Stetson's number 1 selling hat for a reason - versatility. Pull the feather, take out that pin, and it looks good with almost anything.

 

[donwo]

Aerol,

Great hat in your avatar. What kind is it?


Donwo

 

[Hat Head]

Try these guys: http://hornetshats.com/index.php

I have no experience with them, but they have a few retail locations where you could try on hats. And best of all, they appear to be in your price range.

A couple of months ago I bought a "Knightsbridge" from Hornet Hats, in the "Maize" color. I liked it so much that I have on order two more hats: the "Ambassador" in navy; and the "Adventurer" in light grey.

With the plunge in the Pound lately, I got the two new hats for about $180 total, and that includes shipping from the UK to the USA.

If you email them prior to your order, you can determine what ribbon color you want on your hat, and whether or not you want the brim bound or or not.

 

[Creeping Past]

I went to Bates's last summer and got to the final stage of opening my wallet to find that the hat I was buying, which was exactly the same style as one on sale for 60GBP was actually 160GBP. I'd asked beforehand how much 'a hat like that' would cost, but I think the man running the place was a bit deaf.

I like looking around in Lock's, but I agree it's a little pricey. Maybe next year...

I really like the Saxon.

Plenty to think about. Thanks for the tips, people.

 

[jazzncocktails]

Agreed: Stetson Saxon

Stetson Saxon: a classic starter hat - it was my first hat too.
The crown isn't too high, the brim isn't too wide and, in gray, it goes with everything. Eventually, you'll want something taller, wider, (much) higher quality, etc., but this has been Stetson's number 1 selling hat for a reason - versatility. Pull the feather, take out that pin, and it looks good with almost anything.

I completely agree with Lefty...this was my first hat, although in walnut (medium brown), not grey. It is quite versatile and fairly well made. From here, I plan to explore further. Have fun!

 

[Aerol]

Thanks for the compliment, Donwo

The hat is a Montecristi homburg from Optimo in Chicago.

www.optimohats.com

 

[JohnnyB53]

I really like the Saxon.

Plenty to think about. Thanks for the tips, people.

Here's more to think about:

If you like the Stetson Saxon, how about the Akubra Hampton?

Available in black, cedar brown (shown), cruiser grey, regency fawn, and thyme green. Currently 47.53 GBP plus shipping from Everything Australian if you can endure a 3-month wait. Or available immediately for a bit more from Hats Direct in black or under the Whippet name in burnt oak.

I just had my hands on several Stetsons in a hat store today. I own 4 Akubras including the Fed IV Deluxe I had on at the time. It may be a matter of taste, but having had both brand hats in my hands and on my head today, I like the Akubras much better. The Stetsons have a refined appearance, but the Akubras feel more resilient and substantial to me.

And if you want something in a wider bound brim (2-1/2"), check out the Akubra Bogart and Stylemaster models.

 

[rrog]

Stetson Saxon: a classic starter hat - it was my first hat too.
The crown isn't too high, the brim isn't too wide and, in gray, it goes with everything. Eventually, you'll want something taller, wider, (much) higher quality, etc., but this has been Stetson's number 1 selling hat for a reason - versatility. Pull the feather, take out that pin, and it looks good with almost anything.

I couldn't say for sure, but based on the picture and specs provided on the page in the link, I think I own one of these. I bought it off of eBay last summer. Mine is a very dark greenish/gray color. I rebashed the crown into a tear drop shape, but other than that, it looks exactly like the one in the picture. I really like the 2" brim but my wife doesn't. Whenever I hold up two hats and ask her which one she likes best with whatever I'm wearing (yes, my wife helps dress me!), she never picks the Saxon. But it's a very comfortable hat and my wife's opinion not withstanding, I like it.

rrog

 

[jazzncocktails]

Great Akubra info.

Here's more to think about:

If you like the Stetson Saxon, how about the Akubra Hampton?

Available in black, cedar brown (shown), cruiser grey, regency fawn, and thyme green. Currently 47.53 GBP plus shipping from Everything Australian if you can endure a 3-month wait. Or available immediately for a bit more from Hats Direct in black or under the Whippet name in burnt oak.

I just had my hands on several Stetsons in a hat store today. I own 4 Akubras including the Fed IV Deluxe I had on at the time. It may be a matter of taste, but having had both brand hats in my hands and on my head today, I like the Akubras much better. The Stetsons have a refined appearance, but the Akubras feel more resilient and substantial to me.

And if you want something in a wider bound brim (2-1/2"), check out the Akubra Bogart and Stylemaster models.

Thanks for the Akubra info, Johnny. I'm still a fedora neophyte, so I'm just discovering Akubra...that will likely be my next hat. But whether I go for the Fed IV that so many here love or one of those models will be a tough decision...

 

[JohnnyB53]

Thanks for the Akubra info, Johnny. I'm still a fedora neophyte, so I'm just discovering Akubra...that will likely be my next hat. But whether I go for the Fed IV that so many here love or one of those models will be a tough decision...

Wow, what a coincidence. Although I live in Seattle, I was in Long Beach when I visited a large hat shop and posted the above. I also tried out some Dobbs and Bailey hats and of them all I easily prefer the Akubras even though their selection of fedoras is more limited.

As to whether to get a Federation or something else, it sort of depends on what hat shape looks best on you. For a first hat, you might want to go with a Bogart or Stylemaster if you want a '40s look, or a Hampton if you want a '50s-early '60s look. The Federation is a bit more challenging, as it has the high crown and straight sides of the pre-war fedora style, and you bash it yourself. Still, of my 4 Akubras, two are Fed IVs and a third is the Akubra David Morgan Adventurer, which is nearly the same but with 1/8" lower crown and 1/4" broader brim. It's amazing how much difference an 1/8" here or a 1/4" there makes in the resulting look on your head.

Perhaps a good compromise would be the Akubra Fedora, which has flattering proportions for nearly anybody, and has a very soft, easily bashable open crown combined with a snap brim.

 

[Creeping Past]

Johnny, thanks for those suggestions. Even more to think about...

Just when I think I'm getting to grips with vintage-style clothing and whatnot another thing crops up and blows my tiny mind!

So, now it's hats...

 

[Lefty]

Here's how it worked for me:

Learning to Walk
My (now) wife bought me the Stetson in the 90s, during the whole swing thing. I wore it for a while, and then it went back in the box. Fast forward over a decade when, for some reason, hats began to interest me again. I lurked here for about a year and learned just enough to make a lot of typical newbie mistakes. I started buying hats on ebay, considering about $40 to be the most that I'd spend. Now I know that, most times (though there are exceptions for a lucky day), a good hat in a large size will go for far more. Then, I bought a new Borsalino - HUGE mistake. I've sold off all of my starter hats, including the Stetson (with my wife's blessing), but wouldn't be able to sell the Borso for anything near what I paid for it. It's now my horrible weather hat.

Hitting My Stride
I started to figure out what I liked and began to pay more attention to the posts by the guys with (1) hats like the ones I wanted to own and (2) knowledge coming out of their ears. I bought hats from ebay far less frequently, and really upped my limit. You can justify a $200 hat once every 5 months if you were buying a $40 hat every month. Plus, a $40 hat will resell for (maybe) $40 (assuming it wasn't a lucky break). Depending upon model, size, and popularity, the $200 has a better chance of gaining value (a 7x cb sold for around $500 this past year).

I've also got a felt from Art that I love, and don't plan to ever sell. Helping design it gives it intrinsic value. I'd suggest not going custom until you really know what you like.

Slowing Down
Some guys here are collectors. I'm not one of them. With the exception of 2 hats that I got for under $25 at antique shops (both of which I'll probably sell), I haven't bought a hat since June, when I got my milan from Optimo. There are no specific hats that I want at the moment, but if I see one that I really, really want, I will chase it.

Lessons Learned
Take your time.
Read a lot.
Snipe auctions. Be willing to spend. Regret is a terrible thing.
The hat you wear the most is never the one that you think is your favorite.

 

[thecoolmiester]

You need a custom...

Get a Peters Bros $200 or AdventureBuilt $400. Both of these companys sell custom fedoras so that every last spec is how you want it.