Field Leathers

[Marc mndt]

I'm really glad Greg has moved away from the super tight top-stitches; while they obviously require a lot of skill to do, the end result just plain doesn't look as good as a nice substantial seam, which also works to basically add additional lines and detail to the jacket while being much stronger.

I'm not sure he has, these are pics of recent Manhattan and Route66 jackets.

I did spec 'regular' topstitch spacing for the New Amsterdam as I think those super tight top stitches look somewhat feminine.

 

[Marc mndt]

Basically half the locations in downstate New York have Dutch place names (sometimes Anglicized).

The Dutch map was used as a reference with Amsterdam being the center.

Breuckelen was renamed to Brooklyn by the English.
Haarlem - Harlem
Vlissingen - Flushing

 

[Nacho]

The Dutch map was used as a reference with Amsterdam being the center.

Breuckelen was renamed to Brooklyn by the English.
Haarlem - Harlem
Vlissingen - Flushing

Wall Street was named after the wall that protects New Amsterdam from the attack of the coalition between the Red Coats and Native Americans.

Had the Dutch have a bigger army, they could have fended off the British. And Pieter Stuyvesant, the last governor of New Netherland, didn’t have to hand over New Amsterdam to the Duke of York in 1664.

 

[Bfd70]

Does a Field leathers order require full payment at the time of order, or just a deposit?

 

[Cheech]

I paid just a 300-pound deposit back in February.

 

[Aloysius]

Does a Field leathers order require full payment at the time of order, or just a deposit?

Your choice. Given the really weak pound right now, it might not be a bad idea for someone earning in dollars to pay in full now. (I had the opposite experience; paid the deposit during a strong pound, but by the time I paid the remainder it had dropped to its current lows.)

 

[Daniel Veit]

I am long overdue for my second FL, but haven't had time to think about it.
Originally planning for a halfbelt, I recently found my love for aviator designs, which are halfbelts with a fancy front (at least to me)
I made some rough sketches to get a better idea of what I want ecaxctly.
Here they are:

As you can see the front6is basicly the aero/lvc "bird of prey". What I would like to improve here is the zipper placement. I would like it to go up as high and straight as possible and then to curve dramatically. But I don't know if this is technically possible.
All the other alternatives that came to my mind are in the sketches.
Please feel free to ignore this completely if you find this stupid or a waste of your time, but still I am hoping for input and ideas.

 

[Marc mndt]

What I would like to improve here is the zipper placement. I would like it to go up as high and straight as possible and then to curve dramatically. But I don't know if this is technically possible.

Greg can do a curved zipper, here's what it looks like on my FL aviator.

Please feel free to ignore this completely if you find this stupid or a waste of your time, but still I am hoping for input and ideas.

I don't love how shoulder gussets look on Greg's jacket. I can't pinpoint exactly what' s wrong with them but they just look unnatural imo. Maybe a center box pleat world be a safer choice for added mobility.

Greg's Chicago vs Thedi vs Vintage

This FL with back gussets looks good though but I think this is his old pattern which comes with other issues.

 

[JMax]

I am long overdue for my second FL, but haven't had time to think about it.
Originally planning for a halfbelt, I recently found my love for aviator designs, which are halfbelts with a fancy front (at least to me)
I made some rough sketches to get a better idea of what I want ecaxctly.
Here they are:

View attachment 576501
View attachment 576502
As you can see the front6is basicly the aero/lvc "bird of prey". What I would like to improve here is the zipper placement. I would like it to go up as high and straight as possible and then to curve dramatically. But I don't know if this is technically possible.
All the other alternatives that came to my mind are in the sketches.
Please feel free to ignore this completely if you find this stupid or a waste of your time, but still I am hoping for input and ideas.

Looks great. Simple and elegant. I like the idea of little darts that flair up from the top of the HB. I just think they look nice.

 

[Daniel Veit]

I don't love how shoulder gussets look on Greg's jacket. I can't pinpoint exactly what' s wrong with them but they just look unnatural imo. Maybe a center box pleat world be a safer choice for added mobility.

Thanks for the input. It's true the gussets on my FL are as prominent as in the examples you pointed to.

The range of motion though is great.
I like the back pleat design too, it's classic and hopefully somewhat effective (? What are your experiences? )
What I don't like is the gaping look that seems to be unavoidable with this design.
Or is it rather a consequence of a (too) tight fit?
I appreciate your valuable input

 

[Daniel Veit]

Oh, I forgot one thing:
Regarding the sleeves I wonder whether I should consider french seams (and where exactly)? They look very refined and less bulky and since it's a three piece design it might be worth it.
Any caveats concerning durability etc?

 

[Marc mndt]

it's classic and hopefully somewhat effective (? What are your experiences? )

It's definitely effective. Not as effective as full shoulder gussets but it does improve mobility.

What I don't like is the gaping look that seems to be unavoidable with this design.

Having somewhat of a gape is unavoidable as over time horizontal creases will form in the box pleat pushing the pleat open. It's more pronounced with stiffer leather than with more pliable leather.

 

[Marc mndt]

Oh, I forgot one thing:
Regarding the sleeves I wonder whether I should consider french seams (and where exactly)? They look very refined and less bulky and since it's a three piece design it might be worth it.
Any caveats concerning durability etc?

They indeed look fancy but I can't say they make a jacket feel more comfortable. I don't really notice any difference tbh.

No need to worry about durability.

 

[Aloysius]

Maybe a center box pleat world be a safer choice for added mobility.

It hasn't been very useful in my case yet. I'm hoping it's just a case of the navy Shinki needing break in, because it's quite stiff; the scenario I'm more afraid of is that it's due to the quite narrow upper sleeve and that's causing the arm to 'catch'.

From today's update I was very excited to see @Damon141 has a CHP on the way, though I wonder if his body will reject a non-cafe racer.

 

[Damon141]

Fields Leather Review

I’ve been wanting to do this for a while but haven’t got around to it, but I’m leaving for a trip to visit my mother which has since retired become a world traveler, the US dollar stretches further in the countries she goes, this time its Meridia Mexico and no wearing jackets there.
Since I have not been out of the country since I was a kid, I even scored this passport holder made in the USA by an active Coast Guard member who made it for 1/3 of the cost as his Indonesian counterparts, awesome work.

(Yes the review is for another cafe racer). Perfect pair, one brown and one black, but I will say if he makes that Beck 666 a permanent thing. I think I would be looking at 3 Racers lol

To the review, I waited for the end of my winter season because I thought it best that I actually wore the jacket for a while so that any problems or inconsistencies would show themselves BUT THEY HAVE NOT.

THE WAIT

Firstly yes, the wait was long, mine longer than yours might have been because this was a Completely new design for him and honestly I think it worked better because he’s clearly better at assembling these unique designs than a year or two ago.

Was it worth the wait? Absolutely, the fit is just perfect to me anyways, there are always different tastes so the fit may not be for everyone but I would not change a thing, well maybe I would have extended the zipper an inch or so but it really doesn’t matter and the design allows you to sit while zipped up.

Measurements and fit.

In the initial email correspondence we went over measurements and weight and desired fit. I had a well fit jacket which made it easier.
I told Sam and Greg that I wasn’t worried about it being a tight fitting jacket because I fluctuate between weights and then I’ve always planned to keep my custom jackets, who knows what the future holds but I do not plan to sell any, so long as it fits and it’s not holding me back from owning something else I want.
Also there’s a difference between having a one off custom from a tiny one or two employee brand than buying a made to measure from one of the larger but still small brands. Nostalgic i guess, knowing I spoke to the owner and maker about my jacket.

We based the measurements on my Kensington's fit, which was never the problem with that one, the only things we changed were the sleeves were too long (but the tight cuff design let me hide it)
We widened the shoulders an inch and took away 1/2” from each side of the middle abdomen which gives the jacket a V Taper zipped or unzipped.

These are not the best pictures, some even took at random times without a proper outfit but they might reflect the best fit because it’s more broken in


FINISHING
Stitching and finishing has always been Greg Field Leather’s strong suit, and this one does not disappoint, I’m not a maker/machinist but I really think he took his time with this one. It’s close to the edge on some areas but for the most part the stitch line is not on the edge of the seams like they used to be and honestly I think a little room from the edge looks natural.
SPI Is probably around 10 but have never counted, when I was new I used to worry about this but now I realize that stitches can look good longer or shorter. But I’m thinking this might be a Field Leather trademark so maybe it’s nice to have one like that.
I always thought that in 10-20 years you would never know the difference. But again I’m glad to see what is possible.


The Design

When I first ordered my jacket, I was actually going to order a Route 66 with horizontal chest pockets, One that looks like an old picture of an earlier J100 I found online.

But then during the wait I ordered the Kensington and asked Fields if I could change my design, I gave them pictures and information I had put together and they said they would take on the challenge. Later on while asking for information on another member’s jackets, he out of nowhere said that he talked to Greg and would send in the jackets for reference. What a good guy and I still am in awe that he offered to do. We are taking sending jackets from California to Scotland.

Clearly board members will know the jacket is based on another jacket which already exists, there could be some mixed feelings about that but in the end they seem to irregularly produce the leather jackets and I had no chance of fitting into their models anyways, besides that, there’s probably a dozen other brands cloning the Mulholland so I can’t feel too bad for this one off.

The details

The detailing on this jacket are what drew me to it, to some all cafe racers look the same but even without the color difference, the details on this jacket still amaze me, the back design with those French seams, also French seams along the sleeves, and the shoulders. Along with the double line stitching along the chest pockets and wrist cuffs. We actually decided to change the cuffs, since I already have an open zip cuff design, I told them to just use their normal procedure for cafe racers.

I also used a NOS Vintage Crown Main zipper in a #10 which suits the leather which is pretty thick compared to my other steerhide jacket. This one will take some time to break in whereas the steerhide had a broken in feeling from day one. I’m glad to have both to compare.

They thought Dark Brown thread would look good and I agreed. Then I sent in the Moleskin in a medium weight, durable but not heavy weight for my mild climate.

The interior angled pocket was a surprisingly good choice, it is so easy to use for a wallet or phone. The paneling was a nice touch with this material and in the sleeves I took their recommendation and used A contrasting material in both color and texture. It makes sliding your arms in a breeze. They recommended. Sleeve lining company which used to be one of their lining choices.

The LEATHER Shinki full aniline is great.

I’m open to all leathers, but for this one I think they chose right as it was suggested to me. It’s probably a good 3 ounce vs 2.5 ounces of my other which is chrome tanned and the full aniline Shinki being vegetable tanned, it’s definitely going to develop character whereas the chrome tanned leather I have has not changed much, but if have to look at pictures to confirm.
Arm rolls started with the 2nd week with daily use and I think they look great. I’ll keep them in check because I don’t want them riding up my arm to much so I’d say if needed you can smooth them out on a flat surface with just some pressure and your hands.

I changed the pulls to these ones for variety and to make it a bit unique and then you can see that big Crown, it would have been perfect with one of his big paperclip repro Talons but I really liked that crown zipper style.

Thanks for taking the time to look and I thank everyone who helped me along the way with sizing, detail, movement and every aspect of help

 

[Aloysius]

I really like this, which is saying a lot because I tend to find cafe racers the most boring design. (Even my own well-fitting one bores me.)

What's the other, chrome-tanned jacket you're referring to?

 

[JMax]

Fields Leather Review

I’ve been wanting to do this for a while but haven’t got around to it, but I’m leaving for a trip to visit my mother which has since retired become a world traveler, the US dollar stretches further in the countries she goes, this time its Meridia Mexico and no wearing jackets there.
Since I have not been out of the country since I was a kid, I even scored this passport holder made in the USA by an active Coast Guard member who made it for 1/3 of the cost as his Indonesian counterparts, awesome work.
View attachment 589648
View attachment 589648 View attachment 589649 View attachment 589662 View attachment 589649


(Yes the review is for another cafe racer). Perfect pair, one brown and one black, but I will say if he makes that Beck 666 a permanent thing. I think I would be looking at 3 Racers lol

To the review, I waited for the end of my winter season because I thought it best that I actually wore the jacket for a while so that any problems or inconsistencies would show themselves BUT THEY HAVE NOT.

THE WAIT

Firstly yes, the wait was long, mine longer than yours might have been because this was a Completely new design for him and honestly I think it worked better because he’s clearly better at assembling these unique designs than a year or two ago.

Was it worth the wait? Absolutely, the fit is just perfect to me anyways, there are always different tastes so the fit may not be for everyone but I would not change a thing, well maybe I would have extended the zipper an inch or so but it really doesn’t matter and the design allows you to sit while zipped up.

Measurements and fit.

In the initial email correspondence we went over measurements and weight and desired fit. I had a well fit jacket which made it easier.
I told Sam and Greg that I wasn’t worried about it being a tight fitting jacket because I fluctuate between weights and then I’ve always planned to keep my custom jackets, who knows what the future holds but I do not plan to sell any, so long as it fits and it’s not holding me back from owning something else I want.
Also there’s a difference between having a one off custom from a tiny one or two employee brand than buying a made to measure from one of the larger but still small brands. Nostalgic i guess, knowing I spoke to the owner and maker about my jacket.

We based the measurements on my Kensington's fit, which was never the problem with that one, the only things we changed were the sleeves were too long (but the tight cuff design let me hide it)
We widened the shoulders an inch and took away 1/2” from each side of the middle abdomen which gives the jacket a V Taper zipped or unzipped.

These are not the best pictures, some even took at random times without a proper outfit but they might reflect the best fit because it’s more broken in


FINISHING
Stitching and finishing has always been Greg Field Leather’s strong suit, and this one does not disappoint, I’m not a maker/machinist but I really think he took his time with this one. It’s close to the edge on some areas but for the most part the stitch line is not on the edge of the seams like they used to be and honestly I think a little room from the edge looks natural.
SPI Is probably around 10 but have never counted, when I was new I used to worry about this but now I realize that stitches can look good longer or shorter. But I’m thinking this might be a Field Leather trademark so maybe it’s nice to have one like that.
I always thought that in 10-20 years you would never know the difference. But again I’m glad to see what is possible.


The Design

When I first ordered my jacket, I was actually going to order a Route 66 with horizontal chest pockets, One that looks like an old picture of an earlier J100 I found online.

But then during the wait I ordered the Kensington and asked Fields if I could change my design, I gave them pictures and information I had put together and they said they would take on the challenge. Later on while asking for information on another member’s jackets, he out of nowhere said that he talked to Greg and would send in the jackets for reference. What a good guy and I still am in awe that he offered to do. We are taking sending jackets from California to Scotland.

Clearly board members will know the jacket is based on another jacket which already exists, there could be some mixed feelings about that but in the end they seem to irregularly produce the leather jackets and I had no chance of fitting into their models anyways, besides that, there’s probably a dozen other brands cloning the Mulholland so I can’t feel too bad for this one off.

The details

The detailing on this jacket are what drew me to it, to some all cafe racers look the same but even without the color difference, the details on this jacket still amaze me, the back design with those French seams, also French seams along the sleeves, and the shoulders. Along with the double line stitching along the chest pockets and wrist cuffs. We actually decided to change the cuffs, since I already have an open zip cuff design, I told them to just use their normal procedure for cafe racers.

I also used a NOS Vintage Crown Main zipper in a #10 which suits the leather which is pretty thick compared to my other steerhide jacket. This one will take some time to break in whereas the steerhide had a broken in feeling from day one. I’m glad to have both to compare.

They thought Dark Brown thread would look good and I agreed. Then I sent in the Moleskin in a medium weight, durable but not heavy weight for my mild climate.

The interior angled pocket was a surprisingly good choice, it is so easy to use for a wallet or phone. The paneling was a nice touch with this material and in the sleeves I took their recommendation and used A contrasting material in both color and texture. It makes sliding your arms in a breeze. They recommended. Sleeve lining company which used to be one of their lining choices.

The LEATHER Shinki full aniline is great.

I’m open to all leathers, but for this one I think they chose right as it was suggested to me. It’s probably a good 3 ounce vs 2.5 ounces of my other which is chrome tanned and the full aniline Shinki being vegetable tanned, it’s definitely going to develop character whereas the chrome tanned leather I have has not changed much, but if have to look at pictures to confirm.
Arm rolls started with the 2nd week with daily use and I think they look great. I’ll keep them in check because I don’t want them riding up my arm to much so I’d say if needed you can smooth them out on a flat surface with just some pressure and your hands.

View attachment 589656 View attachment 589662 View attachment 589650 View attachment 589665 View attachment 589683
I changed the pulls to these ones for variety and to make it a bit unique and then you can see that big Crown, it would have been perfect with one of his big paperclip repro Talons but I really liked that crown zipper style.

Thanks for taking the time to look and I thank everyone who helped me along the way with sizing, detail, movement and every aspect of help

View attachment 589685 View attachment 589684

Very cool jacket and great write-up.

Enjoy Mexico! I’d be careful on those roads between Merida and Cancun & Playa del Carmen, especially the interior roads and at night.

 

[Marc mndt]

Fields Leather Review

I’ve been wanting to do this for a while but haven’t got around to it, but I’m leaving for a trip to visit my mother which has since retired become a world traveler, the US dollar stretches further in the countries she goes, this time its Meridia Mexico and no wearing jackets there.
Since I have not been out of the country since I was a kid, I even scored this passport holder made in the USA by an active Coast Guard member who made it for 1/3 of the cost as his Indonesian counterparts, awesome work.
View attachment 589648
View attachment 589648 View attachment 589649 View attachment 589662 View attachment 589649


(Yes the review is for another cafe racer). Perfect pair, one brown and one black, but I will say if he makes that Beck 666 a permanent thing. I think I would be looking at 3 Racers lol

To the review, I waited for the end of my winter season because I thought it best that I actually wore the jacket for a while so that any problems or inconsistencies would show themselves BUT THEY HAVE NOT.

THE WAIT

Firstly yes, the wait was long, mine longer than yours might have been because this was a Completely new design for him and honestly I think it worked better because he’s clearly better at assembling these unique designs than a year or two ago.

Was it worth the wait? Absolutely, the fit is just perfect to me anyways, there are always different tastes so the fit may not be for everyone but I would not change a thing, well maybe I would have extended the zipper an inch or so but it really doesn’t matter and the design allows you to sit while zipped up.

Measurements and fit.

In the initial email correspondence we went over measurements and weight and desired fit. I had a well fit jacket which made it easier.
I told Sam and Greg that I wasn’t worried about it being a tight fitting jacket because I fluctuate between weights and then I’ve always planned to keep my custom jackets, who knows what the future holds but I do not plan to sell any, so long as it fits and it’s not holding me back from owning something else I want.
Also there’s a difference between having a one off custom from a tiny one or two employee brand than buying a made to measure from one of the larger but still small brands. Nostalgic i guess, knowing I spoke to the owner and maker about my jacket.

We based the measurements on my Kensington's fit, which was never the problem with that one, the only things we changed were the sleeves were too long (but the tight cuff design let me hide it)
We widened the shoulders an inch and took away 1/2” from each side of the middle abdomen which gives the jacket a V Taper zipped or unzipped.

These are not the best pictures, some even took at random times without a proper outfit but they might reflect the best fit because it’s more broken in


FINISHING
Stitching and finishing has always been Greg Field Leather’s strong suit, and this one does not disappoint, I’m not a maker/machinist but I really think he took his time with this one. It’s close to the edge on some areas but for the most part the stitch line is not on the edge of the seams like they used to be and honestly I think a little room from the edge looks natural.
SPI Is probably around 10 but have never counted, when I was new I used to worry about this but now I realize that stitches can look good longer or shorter. But I’m thinking this might be a Field Leather trademark so maybe it’s nice to have one like that.
I always thought that in 10-20 years you would never know the difference. But again I’m glad to see what is possible.


The Design

When I first ordered my jacket, I was actually going to order a Route 66 with horizontal chest pockets, One that looks like an old picture of an earlier J100 I found online.

But then during the wait I ordered the Kensington and asked Fields if I could change my design, I gave them pictures and information I had put together and they said they would take on the challenge. Later on while asking for information on another member’s jackets, he out of nowhere said that he talked to Greg and would send in the jackets for reference. What a good guy and I still am in awe that he offered to do. We are taking sending jackets from California to Scotland.

Clearly board members will know the jacket is based on another jacket which already exists, there could be some mixed feelings about that but in the end they seem to irregularly produce the leather jackets and I had no chance of fitting into their models anyways, besides that, there’s probably a dozen other brands cloning the Mulholland so I can’t feel too bad for this one off.

The details

The detailing on this jacket are what drew me to it, to some all cafe racers look the same but even without the color difference, the details on this jacket still amaze me, the back design with those French seams, also French seams along the sleeves, and the shoulders. Along with the double line stitching along the chest pockets and wrist cuffs. We actually decided to change the cuffs, since I already have an open zip cuff design, I told them to just use their normal procedure for cafe racers.

I also used a NOS Vintage Crown Main zipper in a #10 which suits the leather which is pretty thick compared to my other steerhide jacket. This one will take some time to break in whereas the steerhide had a broken in feeling from day one. I’m glad to have both to compare.

They thought Dark Brown thread would look good and I agreed. Then I sent in the Moleskin in a medium weight, durable but not heavy weight for my mild climate.

The interior angled pocket was a surprisingly good choice, it is so easy to use for a wallet or phone. The paneling was a nice touch with this material and in the sleeves I took their recommendation and used A contrasting material in both color and texture. It makes sliding your arms in a breeze. They recommended. Sleeve lining company which used to be one of their lining choices.

The LEATHER Shinki full aniline is great.

I’m open to all leathers, but for this one I think they chose right as it was suggested to me. It’s probably a good 3 ounce vs 2.5 ounces of my other which is chrome tanned and the full aniline Shinki being vegetable tanned, it’s definitely going to develop character whereas the chrome tanned leather I have has not changed much, but if have to look at pictures to confirm.
Arm rolls started with the 2nd week with daily use and I think they look great. I’ll keep them in check because I don’t want them riding up my arm to much so I’d say if needed you can smooth them out on a flat surface with just some pressure and your hands.

View attachment 589656 View attachment 589662 View attachment 589650 View attachment 589665 View attachment 589683
I changed the pulls to these ones for variety and to make it a bit unique and then you can see that big Crown, it would have been perfect with one of his big paperclip repro Talons but I really liked that crown zipper style.

Thanks for taking the time to look and I thank everyone who helped me along the way with sizing, detail, movement and every aspect of help

View attachment 589685 View attachment 589684

Awesome jacket, much nicer than the original FW Speedmaster with its weird wide shoulder - narrow chest pattern.

Tbh I was somewhat surprised that Greg was able to deliver a CR that fits better than you Himel Kensington, which despite its horrible construction quality does have a perfect fit (except for the sleeves which are too long).

 

[Blackadder]

Awesome jacket, much nicer than the original FW Speedmaster with its weird wide shoulder - narrow chest pattern.

Tbh I was somewhat surprised that Greg was able to deliver a CR that fits better than you Himel Kensington, which despite its horrible construction quality does have a perfect fit (except for the sleeves which are too long).

View attachment 590026

The original 60s Beck 666 has the wide shoulder narrow chest pattern. I gave up trying to find a "right" size 666. I still have the size 38 that I bought some years ago.

 

[Marc mndt]

The original 60s Beck 666 has the wide shoulder narrow chest pattern. I gave up trying to find one that will fit.

So you're saying this weird FW fit is intentional because the 60s Beck 666 had such a pattern?