Derick_leather
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Field Leathers is a small leather-jacket maker based in Scotland and run by Greg Field. Greg began making jackets at Aero Leather in 2012 before developing his own patterns and designs. His work is strongly influenced by vintage jackets, but rather than simply reproducing original patterns, he refines classic details to create a more wearable modern fit. Most of the cutting and construction is done by Greg himself in his workshop.
Greg confirmed that this jacket is the very first Dallas prototype, as well as the first Field Leathers jacket made from Badalassi Carlo Nemesi leather.
His intention with the Dallas was to create an easy-to-wear 1940s-style jacket. The basic front design came from a jacket he had made several years earlier, although he felt that its collar and lapels were a little too aggressive. For the Dallas, he softened those lines to make the overall design more balanced and wearable.
One of its most distinctive features is the decorative D-pocket-style stitch line across the front. Greg first saw this detail on a vintage Seattle Woolen jacket owned by Jake, better known as @almostvintagestyle. He felt that the stitching would add some classic character while visually connecting the different elements of the jacket.
The Dallas is therefore not a direct reproduction of one particular vintage model. It combines the front design of one of Greg’s earlier jackets, the general character of a 1940s sports jacket, and the decorative stitching inspired by the vintage Seattle Woolen jacket.
After the prototype was completed, Greg and his pattern makers reviewed it before developing the final pattern. In Greg’s words, “all of the changes were minimal.”
The major finished measurements—including the chest, midsection, hem, shoulders, sleeves and back length—were all marked as good. The revisions mainly involved small refinements to the inside sleeve seam, cuff length, collar length and curve, back gusset, half-belt width and the allowance around the front zipper.
Although this is the first prototype, its overall silhouette and design are therefore very close to the final Dallas pattern.
The leather is Badalassi Carlo Nemesi, sometimes written as “Nemesis” by English-language leather suppliers. It is a full-grain, vegetable-tanned cowhide with a dense surface, irregular grain and a great deal of natural character.
The leather is easily the most striking aspect of the jacket in person. Its grain and colour change considerably depending on the lighting, and the large folds that develop around the sleeves and body give it a very distinctive appearance. It already has plenty of texture, but I expect the areas around the cuffs, pockets and lapels to develop even more shine and depth with wear.
The fit is close and slim, but the jacket remains very comfortable. The back gussets and well-developed pattern provide good mobility, even with the front zipped. It has the sharp appearance of a tight-fitting jacket without feeling overly restrictive, which suits Greg’s original idea of an easy-to-wear 1940s-style jacket.
Being the first Dallas prototype and the first Field Leathers jacket made from Nemesi makes it particularly interesting to me. More importantly, Greg was generous enough to explain the inspiration behind the design and the process of refining the pattern, which makes the jacket feel even more special.
Finished Measurements
Measured flat and recorded by Greg
- Chest: 22.75 in / 57.8 cm
- Midsection: 21.25 in / 54.0 cm
- Hem: 21 in / 53.3 cm
- Shoulders: 18.8 in / 47.8 cm
- Sleeves: 25.5 in / 64.8 cm
- Back length: 23.75 in / 60.3 cm
- Back width: 18 in / 45.7 cm
More photos and updates on Instagram:
@derrick_leather
https://www.instagram.com/derrick_leather/
