[Field Leathers] First-time full custom – D-pocket & hide advice needed

[Quan_love_leather]

Hi everyone,

I'm a newcomer to TFL but have been deeply into leather jackets for a while now. I'm planning to place my first custom order from Field Leathers, and it would also be my first hands-on experience with their leathers. I'm hoping to get some advice from those who’ve gone through the process with Greg.

Here’s what I’m aiming for:
- A biker-style D-pocket jacket, roughly inspired by the Flat Head Delraiser, though I plan to request a few custom changes.
- A horsehide that is as water-resistant as possible. I live in Vietnam, where humidity is high and sudden rain is common. I ride a motorcycle daily, so I need something that can withstand moisture and everyday wear.
- A hide around 1.4–1.6mm thick – I want something strong and durable, but not excessively stiff or armor-like.

Beyond the leather itself, I’m also wondering:
- How flexible is the mock-up process at Field Leathers?
- If I’m after a “half-slim, half-straight” fit (something not too tight, not boxy), is that easy to communicate and achieve?
- What should I keep in mind before starting a full bespoke build with Greg?
- Is Shinki still the go-to option here, or are there other Field leathers worth considering?

For some context, I’ve previously tried Aero and Vanson via Thurston Bros' made-to-order service – though only briefly. I'm still quite unsure about achieving a clean, fitted look because I’m a relatively slim Asian build, and I’ve always worried that off-the-rack or even MTO jackets could end up looking a bit baggy on me.

One of the reasons I’m drawn to Field Leathers is because many of their finished jackets appear well-balanced and tailored in photos – which is exactly what I’m hoping to achieve.

Also, any rough idea of pricing for a custom order with light design tweaks would be super helpful.

Thanks so much in advance – I truly appreciate any advice or insight you can share!

 

[TartuWolf]

1 . I Don't think FL does custom orders anymore.
2 . Are you sure you're okay with the lead time? I remember it was quite long by now, over a year?
3 . If you want maximum water resistance then it will likely be a chrome tanned leather with a thick pigment top coat or something very very waxy like CXL. In my opinion you're kind of missing out on FL strength in this case - high end / fancy leathers that are usually veg tan and aniline to show off the beauty as much as possible.
4 . No way I'd recommend shinki for high humidity and rainy climate.
5 . I'd recommend Vanson based on the leather needs you described - no D-pocket options, but you may fall in love with a model E or C2 or CHP - those can be bought from Japan very cheaply at ~200-400eur.
6 . Rugged Rider 3 from Rugged West would also be a good option, especially if you go for their more pigmented and thicker bison.

 

[Zoro]

Here's the main Field Leathers thread - https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/field-leathers.100211/

Honestly, many of your queries would be best if you just contact them. And as TartuWolf told you, he has long lead times, which is one of the reasons I didn't order from him as had I done it at the end of 2024, I would likely still be waiting for my jacket as of today.

I also recall reading that he doesn't do customs anymore, actually in his shop he has the "Out Of Stock" on all the jackets except for the trucker, which is not what you want. Go through the main thread as some people had ordered customs from him and my conclusions from those was that a full custom with him was risky unless you know what you're doing, which is unlikely to be the case if this will be your first jacket.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

Here's the main Field Leathers thread - https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/field-leathers.100211/

Honestly, many of your queries would be best if you just contact them. And as TartuWolf told you, he has long lead times, which is one of the reasons I didn't order from him as had I done it at the end of 2024, I would likely still be waiting for my jacket as of today.

I also recall reading that he doesn't do customs anymore, actually in his shop he has the "Out Of Stock" on all the jackets except for the trucker, which is not what you want. Go through the main thread as some people had ordered customs from him and my conclusions from those was that a full custom with him was risky unless you know what you're doing, which is unlikely to be the case if this will be your first jacket.

1–2.
I’m okay with long wait times — I’ve waited over a year for a custom jacket back in Vietnam, so patience isn’t an issue. The real challenge is whether I can secure a slot in the next order window, whenever Greg opens it again — that’s the key.
3–4–5.
I’m open to exploring CXL and other more water-resistant leathers. I understand that Field’s strength lies in high-end veg-tan aniline hides, but what really draws me in is Greg’s craftsmanship — the way his jackets seem to have a “soul” compared to most other brands I’ve seen.

Patina isn’t my priority. I’m trying to see if there’s a horsehide option from Field that offers better water resistance to better fit my lifestyle.

If I were to follow my practical needs strictly, Vanson would probably make more sense — but as far as I know, they only offer semi-custom. I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who’s successfully pushed for full custom with Vanson, especially if they were able to get a more tailored or slimmed-down fit like Field’s cut. If that’s possible, I’d seriously consider switching paths.
6.
Rugged West is also on my radar now — thanks for bringing it up.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

1 . I Don't think FL does custom orders anymore.
2 . Are you sure you're okay with the lead time? I remember it was quite long by now, over a year?
3 . If you want maximum water resistance then it will likely be a chrome tanned leather with a thick pigment top coat or something very very waxy like CXL. In my opinion you're kind of missing out on FL strength in this case - high end / fancy leathers that are usually veg tan and aniline to show off the beauty as much as possible.
4 . No way I'd recommend shinki for high humidity and rainy climate.
5 . I'd recommend Vanson based on the leather needs you described - no D-pocket options, but you may fall in love with a model E or C2 or CHP - those can be bought from Japan very cheaply at ~200-400eur.
6 . Rugged Rider 3 from Rugged West would also be a good option, especially if you go for their more pigmented and thicker bison.

1–2.
I’m okay with long wait times — I’ve waited over a year for a custom jacket back in Vietnam, so patience isn’t an issue. The real challenge is whether I can secure a slot in the next order window, whenever Greg opens it again — that’s the key.
3–4–5.
I’m open to exploring CXL and other more water-resistant leathers. I understand that Field’s strength lies in high-end veg-tan aniline hides, but what really draws me in is Greg’s craftsmanship — the way his jackets seem to have a “soul” compared to most other brands I’ve seen.

Patina isn’t my priority. I’m trying to see if there’s a horsehide option from Field that offers better water resistance to better fit my lifestyle.

If I were to follow my practical needs strictly, Vanson would probably make more sense — but as far as I know, they only offer semi-custom. I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who’s successfully pushed for full custom with Vanson, especially if they were able to get a more tailored or slimmed-down fit like Field’s cut. If that’s possible, I’d seriously consider switching paths.
6.
Rugged West is also on my radar now — thanks for bringing it up.

 

[jchance]

If you can fit OTR jackets, you should not go custom. That’s just unnecessary spending without necessarily achieving the desired fit you want.

With your needs and at your size, I’d say Lost Worlds fits your needs best. It’s chrome-tanned horsehide, abundant on JP sites, and better for rain. It is indestructible and lasts forever.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

Here's the main Field Leathers thread - https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/field-leathers.100211/

Honestly, many of your queries would be best if you just contact them. And as TartuWolf told you, he has long lead times, which is one of the reasons I didn't order from him as had I done it at the end of 2024, I would likely still be waiting for my jacket as of today.

I also recall reading that he doesn't do customs anymore, actually in his shop he has the "Out Of Stock" on all the jackets except for the trucker, which is not what you want. Go through the main thread as some people had ordered customs from him and my conclusions from those was that a full custom with him was risky unless you know what you're doing, which is unlikely to be the case if this will be your first jacket.

Sorry if I posted in the wrong spot earlier — I’m still getting used to the forum, it’s my first time here.
I’ve already messaged Greg on Facebook but haven’t heard back yet. I’m not in a rush though — I’ve waited over a year for a custom jacket before, so the wait itself doesn’t worry me.
I saw on his Instagram that he plans to limit to 80 orders going forward, so I’m hoping to secure a slot next year.

I do have a clear idea of what I’m looking for — it’s just that this is my first time ordering internationally, so there’s still a bit of a learning curve.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

If you can fit OTR jackets, you should not go custom. That’s just unnecessary spending without necessarily achieving the desired fit you want.

With your needs and at your size (I’m assuming Asian body type), I’d say Lost Worlds fits your needs best. It’s chrome-tanned horsehide, abundant on JP sites, and better for rain. It is indestructible and lasts forever.

I already own several OTR jackets, so I’m now looking for a proper custom piece — something that helps correct certain fit issues specific to my body.





I’m not sure if Lost Worlds offers true full custom and whether they can create a more tapered, refined silhouette similar to what Field Leathers does.





If that’s possible, I’d love to explore it and would be happy to get in touch directly.

 

[Will Zach]

I would call Stu at Lost Worlds and inquire directly. Explain your needs (riding daily, often in wet, humid conditions). His horse hides are perfect for that because of chrome tanning and water-resistant acrylic top coat. Ask him which model would be best for a fitted look on a slim-built guy. Many of his models are based on vintage jackets, so boxy. But maybe he can tweak. For serious riding, I'd take LW over Field, which is really a fashion jacket.

 

[TartuWolf]

See what responses you can get from Greg. But personally I'd much rather ride in a Lost Worlds or a Vanson than a FL jacket. Seems like you have enough experience with leather jackets to go for a custom one. Vanson does do custom (not sure up to what degree) and some of their patterns/models are plenty slim/tapered. Whichever path you chose - please report with the final goods here, we will be curious to see how it turned out!

 

[jchance]

I’m a relatively slim Asian build, and I’ve always worried that off-the-rack or even MTO jackets could end up looking a bit baggy on me.

One of the reasons I’m drawn to Field Leathers is because many of their finished jackets appear well-balanced and tailored in photos – which is exactly what I’m hoping to achieve.

Also, any rough idea of pricing for a custom order with light design tweaks would be super helpful.

What are your chest measurement and the typical p2p and shoulder
measurements on your jackets?

IMO Field Leathers’ strength is with stitching, i.e., laser straight stitching and French seams. Any jacket makers can make their jackets look well proportioned and fitted in their photos. That’s just marketing, which doesn’t necessarily translate to how the jacket in question would look on you.

Lost Worlds D pocket is listed at $2650.
Field Leathers D pocket is listed at $1770.

Leather Motorcycle Jacket Horsehide Buco J23 Flight Jackets

leather motorcycle jacket, Bugeleisen, vintage Buco J23 horsehide, Harley-Davidson, Indian, Triumph, clothing, flight jackets, safari, hunting

lostworldsinc.com

The Manhattan

10 - 12 Month Lead Time The inspiration behind this style came from the J-24, created between 1952-1957 and was the first of its kind which then went on the be the iconic motorcycle jacket replicated by many today.

fieldleathers.com

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I would call Stu at Lost Worlds and inquire directly. Explain your needs (riding daily, often in wet, humid conditions). His horse hides are perfect for that because of chrome tanning and water-resistant acrylic top coat. Ask him which model would be best for a fitted look on a slim-built guy. Many of his models are based on vintage jackets, so boxy. But maybe he can tweak. For serious riding, I'd take LW over Field, which is really a fashion jacket.

Thanks a lot for the suggestion! I’m actually leaning toward reaching out to Stu soon – the durability and weather resistance of LW really appeals to me since I ride daily and live in a pretty humid area.

I’ve seen that most of their patterns are based on vintage styles and run a bit boxy, but I’ll try asking if some small adjustments can be made for a slimmer fit.

I definitely agree that Field leans more into the fashion side of things – what draws me there is the craftsmanship and clean execution, especially in terms of stitching and finishing. But for heavy-duty use, Lost Worlds sounds like the smarter pick.

Appreciate the insight – if you have any specific model recommendations from LW that would suit a slimmer build, I’d love to hear them!

 

[Will Zach]

@JMax
@Carlos840
@red devil

These guys have forgotten more about LW than I will ever know. And they ride.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

See what responses you can get from Greg. But personally I'd much rather ride in a Lost Worlds or a Vanson than a FL jacket. Seems like you have enough experience with leather jackets to go for a custom one. Vanson does do custom (not sure up to what degree) and some of their patterns/models are plenty slim/tapered. Whichever path you chose - please report with the final goods here, we will be curious to see how it turned out!

Yupp, I’ve already reached out – just haven’t heard back yet.
I’m also considering Vanson as the more budget-friendly option, so I’ll try messaging them too.
Really appreciate your recognition – means a lot!

I’ll definitely come back to share the final jacket once everything’s done. This is a passion project for me, for sure.

 

[Will Zach]

I am going to tag Del - he is doing a lot of custom work with Vanson and may have a reco. I do not ride, but am a fan of Vanson C2, minus the back center seam. Del got rid of it in his collab with Vanson, and the jacket looks tremendous.

@Mrfrown

 

[Quan_love_leather]

What are your chest measurement and the typical p2p and shoulder
measurements on your jackets?

IMO Field Leathers’ strength is with stitching, i.e., laser straight stitching and French seams. Any jacket makers can make their jackets look well proportioned and fitted in their photos. That’s just marketing, which doesn’t necessarily translate to how the jacket in question would look on you.

Lost Worlds D pocket is listed at $2650.
Field Leathers D pocket is listed at $1770.

http://[URL]https://lostworldsinc.com/Buco_J23_Horsehide_Leather_Motorcycle_Jacket.htm

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://fieldleathers.com/product/the-manhattan/

[/URL]

Thanks bro, that’s really helpful!
My chest is around 82cm, shoulders 44–45cm, and back length about 58–59cm.
I agree – Field’s stitching is really impressive. I’ve gone through nearly all the customer photos and that’s definitely the standout detail for me.
As for fit, yeah, photos can sometimes be misleading – I’m doing my homework to avoid falling for a look that won’t work for my body type.
And yeah… that D-pocket price from Lost Worlds is a bit hard to swallow

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I am going to tag Del - he is doing a lot of custom work with Vanson and may have a reco. I do not ride, but am a fan of Vanson C2, minus the back center seam. Del got rid of it in his collab with Vanson, and the jacket looks tremendous.

@Mrfrown

Appreciate the tag! I’d love to hear Del’s input on Vanson customs.
I’ve been looking into the C2 – great to hear you’re a fan, even without riding. The version without the center back seam sounds really clean, I’ll definitely check out the collab pics if they’re up somewhere.

Thanks again – this kind of info is gold when trying to narrow things down

 

[jchance]

My chest is around 82cm, shoulders 44–45cm, and back length about 58–59cm.

That’s a size 34, though I’m questioning your shoulder measurements. It’s rare to find shoulder (88-90cm) larger than chest (82cm).

I’m going to be honest. At your size, with those measurements, the American and European leather jacket makers don’t know how to make jackets that would make you look good and flattering because their customer base’s sizing is typically 42-44 (chest). Their patterns would be out of proportion for you. You’re better off sticking to Japanese makers, that’s their typical clientele with sizes 34-38.

A flight ticket from Vietnam to Japan costs $200-300 roundtrip and you can get yourself fitted by the jacket maker, if you decide to go custom. But I think you can fit some OTR jackets coming out of Japan for much cheaper, as that’s their typical sizing. Japan on average sees 4 months of rain per year. They know how to make riding leather jackets for rainy season.

 

[Zoro]

Appreciate the tag! I’d love to hear Del’s input on Vanson customs.
I’ve been looking into the C2 – great to hear you’re a fan, even without riding. The version without the center back seam sounds really clean, I’ll definitely check out the collab pics if they’re up somewhere.

Thanks again – this kind of info is gold when trying to narrow things down

I would add the Vanson Model E / Highwayman. It is more tapered and slim fitting than the C2 and has the side laces to further adjust the taper.

There's still the con that others mentioned about Vanson possibly not fitting their smaller sizes as good as the bigger ones (of which I'm unsure of) and that there's far far less Model E than C2 in the market, but you can always have a look into the JP market as, then again, since they wear smaller sizes than EU/US you might be lucky finding a lone size 34.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

That’s a size 34, though I’m questioning your shoulder measurements. It’s rare to find shoulder (88-90cm) larger than chest (82cm).

I’m going to be honest. At your size, with those measurements, the American and European leather jacket makers don’t know how to make jackets that would make you look good and flattering because their customer base’s sizing is typically 42-44 (chest). Their patterns would be out of proportion for you. You’re better off sticking to Japanese makers, that’s their typical clientele with sizes 34-38.

A flight ticket from Vietnam to Japan costs $200-300 roundtrip and you can get yourself fitted by the jacket maker, if you decide to go custom. But I think you can fit some OTR jackets coming out of Japan for much cheaper, as that’s their typical sizing. Japan on average sees 4 months of rain per year. They know how to make riding leather jackets for rainy season.

Thanks for pointing that out – I think there was a misunderstanding.
Just to clarify: my chest measurement (82cm) is full circumference, measured around the widest part of my chest.
My shoulder measurement (44cm) is across the back, seam to seam – not shoulder circumference. So it’s definitely not wider than my chest
Really appreciate all the insights so far. I’m learning a lot just from these discussions!