Field Leathers

[FL2021]

Greg did a really cool collared café racer for a guy called Roman....

Thats the one I did....some slight changes

 

[Marc mndt]

I am used to cafe racers, so I'm thinking 26-27" back at the longest.

Cafe racers from left to right

27" - 26" - 25.5"

 

[jimmer_5]

How tall are you?

Generally speaking, I think you can go a little longer than the consensus here, but it's all relative. If you don't ride (I don't either) you can probably go a little bit more. My Vanson Commando is 27+ and at 6'0, that's pretty much the max I would go. It does feel long wearing but I like the different look (don't want all my jackets to be the same). My LL Lightning I just got is 26.4 and that feels just about perfect. I find 26ish is about right for me, but usually the advice I'd get on here is to be closer to 25. It's more of a preference, but unfortunately there does come a point where it's clearly wrong like the examples above that Marc gave.

I'm 6 feet tall, no belly yet, long arms and an average torso length. I'm thinking no more than a 27" back length. Probably closer to 26", but no shorter. If I was tucking in a t-shirt, the shorter back length would look great, but that's just not how I dress in the winter months. The length is all about a reasonable compromise in appearance, it's actually a detriment when sitting in the car (hence the idea of using a two-way zipper so I can vent the hem when seated).

 

[jimmer_5]

Cafe racers from left to right

27" - 26" - 25.5"

View attachment 379182

Thanks again Marc. This is where my concern lies - too long and the jacket will hang up on my butt/hips. J-100 style Cafe racers tend to have the zipper start 3" or so above the bottom hem, which gives me a little room for the jacket to expand over my hips.

 

[Marc mndt]

J-100 style Cafe racers tend to have the zipper start 3" or so above the bottom hem, which gives me a little room for the jacket to expand over my hips.

Yep, that's essential when you go longer. Apart from the functionality, I also dig the look.

For reference, I'm 5'11. You're slightly taller so I think you could wear anything between 26" and 27.5"

 

[Jin431]

just sent reference close up photos/measurements of my Mulholland to greg. someone is going to get a Mulholland FL so that will be nice to see, Greg is making the underarm gusset and also the suit jacket interior pocket.

 

[Graemsay]

If I could make two more suggestions...

First, ask Sam and Greg what they advise. They're both experienced at designing and making jackets. (Sam created the Ladies Cossack for Aero.) And it generally pays to listen to what someone like that says.

Second, if you want to go longer in the body, some café racers have zips at the hips to give more flare when needed. For example, on the Iron Heart IHJ-54.

 

[Marc mndt]

just sent reference close up photos/measurements of my Mulholland to greg. someone is going to get a Mulholland FL so that will be nice to see, Greg is making the underarm gusset and also the suit jacket interior pocket.

 

[Jin431]

okay Marc I see you, so that's 2 then cause the fit jacket went to Canada

 

[marker2037]

Hey all,

I got on Greg's list early this year and I'm starting the process of planning out my jacket with Sam. When I made the order, I was planning on getting a classic black tea-core cafe racer style (his Route 66) but having had 6-7 months to think on it, I've been hot on the idea of a cross zip. I like the idea of a simplified BROWN Manhattan keeping the D pocket, but removing the epaulets and belt. I'd also change the back to a J-106 type back (shoulder gussets and a kidney panel instead of the 3-piece back). Schott makes a simple brown lambskin cross zip that is my rough inspiration for this.

The issue is this - I've always preferred brown leather/cafe racer-board race styles, and this is the most expensive jacket I've ever tried out (I know this is still a reasonable price). Am I crazy to try a style that I've never owned before on this purchase? A brown cafe-racer would be the safe bet, but I think a simplified brown Manhattan could look amazing.

I need to give them an answer and I've been hung up for a week. Thanks all!

As has been said, you can get a cafe racer style jacket from almost every brand out there and they honestly don't differ too much, besides material used.

I would go for the brown manhattan if I was you.

Also like you, I too was never into crosszips. I was strictly a cafe racer style jacket wearer for both fashion and my motorcycles. However, I transitioned very easily into the crosszips and now I kick myself for missing out on them for so many years.

What was my first attempt at owning a crosszip you ask? .... Custom ordered Aero Ridley from Thurston Bros., so yea I went all out when I tried it and I haven't gone back.

Thanks for all the advice! I'm leaning towards the Manhattan at this stage.

One more note - I typically wear button down shirts in cooler weather, and I wear them untucked. Can this style be lengthened a bit without looking bad? Not a crazy amount, but an inch or two? I find that a really short bodied jacket looks kind of bad with too much shirt tail hanging out. I'm sure it would look better with the tails tucked in, or even just over a t-shirt, but that's not likely to happen.

There is a very simple and relatively cheap solution to this: take your shirts to the tailor and shorten them 2-3 inches. For those shirts I plan to wear untucked, I get them tailored shorter (or MTM shorter) so that I can still wear them under a leather jacket and not have too much shirt hanging out in case I don't feel like wearing them tucked in (depending on the outfit).

So for a crosszip, I have 23.5-24" back lengths between my Schotts, Aero Ridley, and Field Leathers Manhattan and I'm 5'10" tall. I admit, I like crosszips to fit classically short, as they were designed. You being a couple of inches taller, I imagine an approximate 25.5" back length would be sufficient. In my opinion, it is better to change the length of your shirts to match the jacket rather than lenghten the jacket to match your long shirts, which completely changes (kills) the whole look.

Also, FL Manhattan has a good amount of front drop so be aware of that as well. Too much length added to the back and it will look very bad from the front, not to mention you'll have a hard time getting it zipped over your butt and hips (unless you don't have those).

 

[marker2037]

You don't want to be this guy:

 

[BlueSteel]

You don't want to be this guy:

Perfecto Prom Dress?

 

[jimmer_5]

As has been said, you can get a cafe racer style jacket from almost every brand out there and they honestly don't differ too much, besides material used.

I would go for the brown manhattan if I was you.

Also like you, I too was never into crosszips. I was strictly a cafe racer style jacket wearer for both fashion and my motorcycles. However, I transitioned very easily into the crosszips and now I kick myself for missing out on them for so many years.

What was my first attempt at owning a crosszip you ask? .... Custom ordered Aero Ridley from Thurston Bros., so yea I went all out when I tried it and I haven't gone back.



There is a very simple and relatively cheap solution to this: take your shirts to the tailor and shorten them 2-3 inches. For those shirts I plan to wear untucked, I get them tailored shorter (or MTM shorter) so that I can still wear them under a leather jacket and not have too much shirt hanging out in case I don't feel like wearing them tucked in (depending on the outfit).

So for a crosszip, I have 23.5-24" back lengths between my Schotts, Aero Ridley, and Field Leathers Manhattan and I'm 5'10" tall. I admit, I like crosszips to fit classically short, as they were designed. You being a couple of inches taller, I imagine an approximate 25.5" back length would be sufficient. In my opinion, it is better to change the length of your shirts to match the jacket rather than lenghten the jacket to match your long shirts, which completely changes (kills) the whole look.

Also, FL Manhattan has a good amount of front drop so be aware of that as well. Too much length added to the back and it will look very bad from the front, not to mention you'll have a hard time getting it zipped over your butt and hips (unless you don't have those).

Marker, this is super helpful, thank you. I actually do have my good shirts shortened by a good local seamstress, and some brands like Iron Heart are a bit shorter right out of the box. I think the answer is to keep the back length no longer than 26". I also noticed that Thurston Bros uses two-way zippers on their Vanson Cross Zips, and I think it will look fine on my Field Leathers. That feature is a huge help when sitting in the car or on the bike. I'll have to ask Sam about the front drop and account for that.

 

[navetsea]

Yep, that's essential when you go longer. Apart from the functionality, I also dig the look.

For reference, I'm 5'11. You're slightly taller so I think you could wear anything between 26" and 27.5"

View attachment 379192

i like the shoulder drop and the slant pocket, but with a straight hem, it looks kind of long proportionally

 

[andyone]

Recently got this jacket from Field leathers.

It's a mix between/inspired by his Michigan model, a FW Caboose and maybe an Aero HWM. Leather is Shinki Pony from his latest batch. I wasn't sure about the Pony, but it looked more interesting to me than the dark brown horsehide he had at hand. I am happy I went for the Pony - gosh, what a nice leather it is!

Working with Greg was great! I had just a vague idea and changed my mind several times. At the end, he made a second mock up jacket to get sure that the jacket will be to my ideas. I didn't want to have side adjusters/side straps for a clean look. Greg sent me a large piece from the same leather if I would like them in the future.

So, these are pictures from Greg at his workshop.

And this are crap pictures from the elevator going to work the first day.

I will take better pictures in the future. My wife and my small girls are not so keen/gifted to take good pictures...

Btw: if any of you could tell me how you take all this nice pictures of your jackets (sometimes I see a small little device in your hands) I really would appreciate...

 

[Canuck Panda]

A LOT of stitching went into making this jacket. Every seams is triple stitched it seems. Wow. Just Wow.

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

Navetsea, that is a fantastic jacket. Looks like Greg nailed the fit and the leather is awesome. I've got a couple of slots booked with Greg but I'm probably a year away from build. Can't bloody wait!

 

[indigoeagle]

Yep, that's essential when you go longer. Apart from the functionality, I also dig the look.

For reference, I'm 5'11. You're slightly taller so I think you could wear anything between 26" and 27.5"

View attachment 379192

Sorry for the OT.
Nice black ensemble.

What are your boots?

 

[Jin431]

Recently got this jacket from Field leathers.

It's a mix between/inspired by his Michigan model, a FW Caboose and maybe an Aero HWM. Leather is Shinki Pony from his latest batch. I wasn't sure about the Pony, but it looked more interesting to me than the dark brown horsehide he had at hand. I am happy I went for the Pony - gosh, what a nice leather it is!

Working with Greg was great! I had just a vague idea and changed my mind several times. At the end, he made a second mock up jacket to get sure that the jacket will be to my ideas. I didn't want to have side adjusters/side straps for a clean look. Greg sent me a large piece from the same leather if I would like them in the future.

So, these are pictures from Greg at his workshop.

And this are crap pictures from the elevator going to work the first day.

I will take better pictures in the future. My wife and my small girls are not so keen/gifted to take good pictures...

Btw: if any of you could tell me how you take all this nice pictures of your jackets (sometimes I see a small little device in your hands) I really would appreciate...

congrats on this, thanks for sharing! fits great and the bigger wider collar really adds appeal. the stitch details are perfect and the leather is just perfect.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Recently got this jacket from Field leathers.

It's a mix between/inspired by his Michigan model, a FW Caboose and maybe an Aero HWM. Leather is Shinki Pony from his latest batch. I wasn't sure about the Pony, but it looked more interesting to me than the dark brown horsehide he had at hand. I am happy I went for the Pony - gosh, what a nice leather it is!

Working with Greg was great! I had just a vague idea and changed my mind several times. At the end, he made a second mock up jacket to get sure that the jacket will be to my ideas. I didn't want to have side adjusters/side straps for a clean look. Greg sent me a large piece from the same leather if I would like them in the future.

So, these are pictures from Greg at his workshop.

And this are crap pictures from the elevator going to work the first day.

I will take better pictures in the future. My wife and my small girls are not so keen/gifted to take good pictures...

Btw: if any of you could tell me how you take all this nice pictures of your jackets (sometimes I see a small little device in your hands) I really would appreciate...

Gorgeous. I'm taking notes. I got a solid 8 months to go, although Greg seems to be flying now. I'm honing in on Pony vs Aniline. Leaning more towards Aniline, but like I said, I'm watching closely. Great stuff.