Field Leathers

[air]

That's what I thought too, the attached photo below is the one I requested. I dunno why Greg made it as tall as the one in the mock up jacket but I'm guessing he matched it to the height of the bottom band of the front of the jacket.

View attachment 285065

The back panel on the mock up seems more narrow than the model photo. Are you going for a slimmer fit?

^^ agreed, to my untrained eyes the mock up jackets back looks more like an hour glass shape compared to a more V shaped reference jacket

The side straps are higher like the middle line in an H, when they are tightened you get a hourglass, if they where lower like a U, you get a V.

 

[Jin431]

The back panel on the mock up seems more narrow than the model photo. Are you going for a slimmer fit?

I noticed that too, forgive the terms I use but looks like the side panel of the mock up jacket is attached higher on the arm hole seam compared to the reference jacket. Yes, I'm going for a trim fit just a tshirt/light sweater underneath

 

[diabel]

That's what I thought too, the attached photo below is the one I requested. I dunno why Greg made it as tall as the one in the mock up jacket but I'm guessing he matched it to the height of the bottom band of the front of the jacket.

View attachment 285065

It looks to me as well that he tried to match the height. I think that design will look better if you keep the straps but lower the bottom band both up front and in the back. That said I do applaud Greg for willing to take design risks.

 

[Jin431]

It looks to me as well that he tried to match the height. I think that design will look better if you keep the straps but lower the bottom band both up front and in the back. That said I do applaud Greg for willing to take design risks.

Was thinking along those lines, Maybe to reduce the front bottom band by 1.5" and the back bottom band by 2", the sleeve design by 1", lower the straps placement by 2", change the angle of the side band for a more V shaped taper on the back panel.

 

[air]

I noticed that too, forgive the terms I use but looks like the side panel of the mock up jacket is attached higher on the arm hole seam compared to the reference jacket. Yes, I'm going for a trim fit just a tshirt/light sweater underneath

I think that's it, since the back panel is more narrow, the side panels need to go farther back, eating into what should be the back panel, so they attack higher on the back side of the sleeve. Basically two stripes of back panel have been substituted by side panel.

 

[Marc mndt]

Very cool. How accurate have the fit jackets been? I have yet to do fabric to leather in terms of fit jackets and have only had leather fit jackets previously. With fabric being so different, I'm curious how well the measurements translate. I'm not trying to be skeptical because I'm going to get something from Greg myself, I'm just curious about it.

Mine wasn't 100% accurate in terms of measurements. I spec'd 22' ptp and 19.5 bottom hem. The fit jacket was 22.5' and 20.5'. But apart from that, the jacket was very helpful in getting the pattern right (shoulder /neckline was altered for the final jacket). We also adjusted the sleeve length, the position of the chest pocket and the height of the bottom hem panels.

I'm not sure pinning down the jacket to address certain pattern issues is for everyone though. I used to work in the tailoring business, measuring up made to measure suits. So I do have some experience.

 

[Marc mndt]

This is a great reason to have the fit process! It gives you time to ask questions and discuss these choices before the leather is cut. I would have a conversation as one isn’t like the other to my eye.

Exactly this.

 

[willyto]

Even if it was only for the sleeve lenght it would be already worth it. You can wear the jacket, see how it does and check that the pattern is comfortable.

Same is done with shoes, some bespoke makers(specially if done online) send a trial pair so the customer can try it on and check fit issues.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Thanks for that @Marc mndt that's very helpful. I do not have that experience that you have, so I may not do as well as you did!

 

[Marc mndt]

Thanks for that @Marc mndt that's very helpful. I do not have that experience that you have, so I may not do as well as you did!

Even without any experience, the fit jacket will be helpful. You'll be able to see how your design choices translate from paper to jacket (in case you're going for a custom design). And like @willyto said, you'll know whether it's comfortable or not. If it's not, Greg will know how to adjust the pattern. No expert knowledge from the customer's side needed.

Also, I think the fit jacket really adds to the fun of the overall project. Working with Greg is nothing but fun. I honestly think the amount of time and effort Greg puts into the whole process is unique.

 

[red devil]

Thanks for that @Marc mndt that's very helpful. I do not have that experience that you have, so I may not do as well as you did!

As @Marc mndt said, you are working with professionals, they will know how to adjust the patterns. I did it with Johnson leather and got a perfectly fitting jacket.

And, as mentionned, I have a pattern with Greg as well

 

[58panheadfan]

I'm curious how long Field Leathers is able to maintain this service as a one-man operation. Orders have increased noticeably, in other words, the time window making a jacket (incl. a mock-up jacket) is getting smaller ... hopefully we don't see the same tragedy here as with goodwear leather

 

[Berto]

I'm curious how long Field Leathers is able to maintain this service as a one-man operation. Orders have increased noticeably, in other words, the time window making a jacket (incl. a mock-up jacket) is getting smaller ... hopefully we don't see the same tragedy here as with goodwear leather

The point is how long does take to made a custom leather jacket.

 

[Jin431]

Wait time has definitely increased but he is still very responsive

 

[58panheadfan]

The point is how long does take to made a custom leather jacket.

That's true... but if he has to make more custom leather jackets, the waiting time for standard ones also increase...

Wait time has definitely increased but he is still very responsive

Still... (I am just kidding, hopefully)

 

[air]

I'm curious how long Field Leathers is able to maintain this service as a one-man operation. Orders have increased noticeably, in other words, the time window making a jacket (incl. a mock-up jacket) is getting smaller ... hopefully we don't see the same tragedy here as with goodwear leather

What happened to them?

 

[58panheadfan]

What happened to them?

You have to wait several years to get an ordered jacket...

Edit: Or in the case @El Marro only 11 months

 

[handymike]

What happened to them?

While I believe John makes some of the best jackets, Goodwear has a very long wait time.

 

[Jin431]

I know what you mean. I heard stories about how long a wait it is to get a good wear and the inconsistency of communication with the maker at times. FL is still a one man team and with how involving his business model is there is bound to be delays. My 1st jacket from him took about 4 mos from order date to delivery so it's not too long

 

[handymike]

I think Greg mentioned that he was going to bring in help at some point. This is key to growing a solid business. The problem of course is getting trustworthy employees at a price that won’t break you at the outset. Timing is crucial for the first couple of helpers.