This older Allen Leathers jacket (defunct brand from Japan) is about a size too small. I still wear it, wearing it today, but zipping it up is pretty form fitting. Thankfully the leather is soft:
Today’s bad fit pic:
@tmitchell59 do you know what the cuff measures on your vintage Hercules?
As much I as I like how modern, slim fit sleeves look they do kind of bother me to wear at times. I’ve found the sleeves/cuffs on my Admiral Byrd a lot nicer.
It’s closest to the Sears Hercules ‘38, it’s very small but that that one has a chest pocket with ball and chain zipper, blue melton lining, and corduroy collar facing.
Yes that’s the ‘42, I have access to all the Sears catalogs on Ancestry and searched through them for Hercules half belts, the result was I found them in the ‘35-‘42 Fall/Winter catalogs and then I added dates to the images for reference.
Here’s ‘39-‘41:
Price is missing on my ‘39 screenshot...
Bingo, there it is! Thanks for that Terry, the only MW catalog I have is the 1935 one.
If Rough Wear is like the sewing factories I work with, they basically make clothing for any brand that can pay and isn’t too much of a pain in the neck, so they could have conceivably made jackets for...
Based on the patent being held by Rough Wear, and those jackets with similar adjustable collars and patent garment tags, it seems to point to Rough Wear.
The second jacket is interesting; it has similar two-way pockets and the same side adjusters as my Admiral Byrd wool half belt that I figured...
Thanks for that incredible slideshow Terry; the clearer shots of the patent tags in better condition also helped me find those patents by Rough Wear:
https://patents.google.com/patent/US1993705A/en?oq=1,993,705
The second seems to only be tangentially related to the Hercules design; overly...
That looks like the original adjustable collar and it’s in good shape. They can be worn down too, hence the name, so they’re not always getting sweat or, in my case, hair product on them.
My Sugar Cane jacket has the adjustable wool collar as well, it’s meant to protect the leather and keep your neck warm:
I thought I saw Goodwear do it once as well for their Hercules with a corduroy collar?
You’re right though in that the BK has the most Hercules details, including the...
The main reason why it’s so iconic is probably two-fold:
1. The back design. It’s probably the best half-belt back design out there, at least in my opinion, and it’s prominently illustrated in the catalog listings. Sears even lists it as a “fancy back”, so if they were to choose one half-belt...
Here’s a nice original Sears Hercules for sale at Mushroom Vintage; too rich for me but it’s nice to look at:
https://vintage-mushroom.net/?pid=173170797
I tried searching for both of these patent numbers but didn’t come up with anything; even went through all patents with Sears as an...
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