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    Is this acceptable for a 1st quality Schott?

    I'm not saying it as an insult or to mock; this is part of the nature of leather. It's not for everybody. My own favorite garments aren't leather either.
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    Is this acceptable for a 1st quality Schott?

    By the way, RMC will display the same "problem".
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    Is this acceptable for a 1st quality Schott?

    There is absolutely nothing wrong with their choice of panels here. If this isn't matchy enough for you, you genuinely should not be wearing leather.
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    (Trigger warning) Are we giving too much credit for wabi-sabi/Japanese craftmanship reputation for uneven graining (especially in high visible area)?

    Exactly. This is as artificial as it gets. The equivalent of those extremely over distressed jeans one finds at cheap mass market stores and designer boutiques alike. It indicates nothing from any particular culture except a widespread fashion industry practice.
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    (Trigger warning) Are we giving too much credit for wabi-sabi/Japanese craftmanship reputation for uneven graining (especially in high visible area)?

    What you're talking about isn't an aspect of Japanese culture. It's fashion marketing, in this case in concert with Lightning Magazine and similar publications. It just happens to be in Japan.
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    Are Aero Jackets that good?

    FWIW as these military sheepskins go, Aero does not play second fiddle to anyone.
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    Aero Chips

    I didn’t say “in CXL”; I said skip the CXL and ask about their excellent stock leather options. CXL wouldn’t be a stock jacket anyway; it would be a made to order jacket even if without a pattern fee.
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    Aero Chips

    I think CXL horsehide goes up to like 3.5 oz; heavier is steer but also it's basically belt leather at that point. I'd suggest that instead of asking for CXL, just ask for what good heavy leathers they have. No need to micro manage; they have the tannery connections including leathers specially...
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    Aero Chips

    Check out their Instagram. Johnson primarily does direct work for companies/departments so they don't end up needing much of a website presence. Red devil, a regular here, has ordered many great jackets from them to the UK, including this Peter's aviator and this recent 1970s style jacket. His...
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    Aero Chips

    I think getting your standard size is the best bet for intended fit. However, I have a question for you: Are you based in the UK? Because the Aero current price for a CHP is more than I paid for one with my own custom pattern from Johnson Leathers (which also makes actual police CHPs). Given...
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    Iron Heart Nagoya

    I think perhaps you misunderstood. I'm not talking about Iron Heart here, whether Japan or UK. I'm saying that the "heritage" market has grown enough over the past decade or so that now there are many brands targeting that audience just like any other fashion brand might, with lots of buzzwords...
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    Heavyweight suits.

    Dugdale still makes 18oz suiting fabric as they did in the 1920s under the name Fearnought.
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    Iron Heart Nagoya

    Whatever one's thoughts on Iron Heart (Japan or UK), the above reasoning, though common, is actually quite dangerous. There are loads of unscrupulous companies engaging in the same bad fashion company practices, but for the "heritage" americana/workwear market. Be careful not to make yourself a...
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    How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

    I got to handle it and talk to them about it. They had it made with a nice firm temper instead of the more slouchy sweater like tweeds that are popular now. I’ve also seen some projects where they’ve quilted it presumably with some sort of batting for field garments. Endless possibilities!
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    Identifying leather type on older Schott Perfecto

    I know this post is a couple of years old at this point but is your 618 steer or horse? Looks like steer but I can’t tell at first glance.
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    How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

    If it's the fit (complete with personal pattern) and good sturdy British fabrics you're mostly after, the off-Row tailors will get you there at half the cost of the Row (or less). The 'compromises' are not really in areas that make a massive difference imo. IMO a far better use of money than...
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    How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

    As someone who bought most of his formal shirts during the Boxing Day and July sales, it’s obviously a big jump in price but alas I don’t have the collar size I did at 21… but he charges comparable for bespoke what Turnbull now charges for readymade. (T&A does great work but running big flagship...
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    How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

    Oh I forgot to mention the main reason I posted about that order… the bespoke flannel shirt costs less than Iron Heart and other makers charge for RTW. So I’d suggest our London members, if they’re already comfortable spending that much, consider making a trip to Sackville Street to visit...
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    Sleeveless Perfecto-style jacket/vest

    Just buy one with wrecked sleeves for cheap then cut them off. @Monitor did this.

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