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  1. A

    Cheaper alternatives to YSL designer style leather jackets?

    Full canvas! Grip the chest and you’ll feel the canvas. Caruso also does some Purple Label (with extra handwork). Caruso makes the Italian RRL, correct, and used to make Rugby’s tailoring when that line was around. Both are half canvassed. In the other direction they also do some of the...
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    Cheaper alternatives to YSL designer style leather jackets?

    Man I miss RLBL. It'll be much better made than the YSL stuff too. Their Anthony model of jackets and suits is perhaps the best fit I've had in a RTW tailored garment, and even at full price I could understand someone getting it. (I mention that because RTW from RLPL, Brioni, etc costs more...
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    Cheaper alternatives to YSL designer style leather jackets?

    The "YSL moto" that all the nouveau riche wear across the world is nothing more than a boxy copy of a Lewis Lightning sometimes with an added ticket pocket, done in a quite nice but smooth calfskin or lambskin. It's the materials and branding that make it stand out, not the design. I dare say...
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    Question about new Schott 618 vs Vintage 618

    I doubt it's defective. Leather is an organic material and like all good makers, they will use pieces of consistent thickness throughout the making of the garment. I'm guessing your old one was at the upper end of the range and this one was at the lower end of the range, so the difference feels...
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    Bought this SCHOTT (identify?)

    They played around with each other's pin/accessory ideas, like Dee Dee adopting the chain on the epaulette.
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    Bought this SCHOTT (identify?)

    I'd think a 90s 118 or 618 that someone added studs to influenced by photos of some old Sears jackets.
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    5 Star Californian/Campus Halfbelt red russet goat!

    Yes the mil stuff is good. They patterned directly off of originals for those. Not so popular on the FL design wise but they’re great jackets.
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    5 Star Californian/Campus Halfbelt red russet goat!

    The only wearable patterns are the ones directly copied from something existing. If you got an exact (and I mean exact) copy of the pattern they made off of Mysteryo's Buco motorcycle jacket, that should work.
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    5 Star Californian/Campus Halfbelt red russet goat!

    That is the key word. Plenty of jackets look good, but due to bad patterns aren't very wearable. Some look underwhelming but actually have perfect fit from good patterning. The contrast is across four years, so you can see why actually having to wear/live with the jackets would cause a...
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    First Aero - 1930s Half Belt STF (Aero Japan)

    Old post, but yes. Aero calls No.8 "Cordovan".
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    5 Star Californian/Campus Halfbelt red russet goat!

    I think in general the forum is more willing to be critical now (in an intelligent way); plenty of pricy jackets don't get a pass, for example. As for the overexcitement around Five Star, it's worth noting that this was during peak COVID so people were a bit bored!
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    Why is horsehide better than steerhide?

    He definitely did and owns many great steerhide jackets at this point. However for all his 7 oz hide fetish, he seems to wear mid weight hides now…
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    Brilliant Video Series on Patterning (Kent & Haste)

    We have so many discussions here about patterns, how they suit a wearer, even how easy or hard they are to make. I usually don't like clothing content on YouTube since it pales in comparison to the knowledge on forums, but I found a great video series with the tailor shop Kent, Haste, & Lachter...
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    (Trigger warning) Are we giving too much credit for wabi-sabi/Japanese craftmanship reputation for uneven graining (especially in high visible area)?

    I'm very familiar with those makers and I agree that ultimately they're more compelling. What do you mean by "disprove"? There isn't some Japanese cultural imperative for this mismatch. It's just a fashion trend in (one subculture of) Japan and in other countries as well. The reason those...
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    Lets see those Motorcycle Jackets!

    Good to know! I was under the mistaken impression that the Oakbrook was a drop in construction. (I've been after a Hercules for a long time, and nice examples are largely held for ransom!)
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    Lets see those Motorcycle Jackets!

    IIRC they were sent an Oakbrook to study as well as to follow reference photos of the film character who was in a vintage Hercules, which is why it lands in between those.
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    What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

    Perfection. Is this the one you were wearing when we met?
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    WTB MA-1 Bomber 38-40

    You'll pay a massive markup going through Self Edge. In fact I witnessed them cutting the price part off of the Buzz Rickson's and Sugar Cane tags, presumably to hide their markup from buyers who don't know better. If you want to buy from a US-based dealer, go with History Preservation. They...
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    (Trigger warning) Are we giving too much credit for wabi-sabi/Japanese craftmanship reputation for uneven graining (especially in high visible area)?

    I tried to get it across by explaining it as a fashion choice, rather than an element of Japanese culture, but maybe I didn't get the point across. I think the difference there is Aero explicitly lists it as a realistic but cheaper option (with the price reduced) and when the panel matching is...
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    How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

    I feel like one of the most important signs of maturity in this stuff that we all end up realizing at some point having worn a ton is that we don't have a "magic" measurement for chest/hem/length, because different jacket types will demand a different setup. Of course it follows some expensive...

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