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Help! I hate modern suit cuts!

Prodigal_Jess

Familiar Face
Messages
66
Over the last few decades I bought most of my suits in thrift stores. I favored 1940s and 1950s style cuts: longer jackets, no vent or center vent, wide or narrow lapels depending on the suit/era, higher waisted and wider legged trousers with a cuff. Think 1940s film noir to 1950s hepcat.

It's not hyperbole to say I HATE modern cuts: short jackets, fitted/skinny pants with no cuff, bilateral jacket vents, overly fitted jackets, stretchy and synthetic fabrics. Maybe this is just what I'm running across currently at thrift stores and Men's Warehouse, but can anyone recommend a place to get 40s and 50s style cuts affordably?

I was a swing dancer for years and even though I bought almost all my suits from thrift stores (except for some zoot suit reproductions from a now-defunct local shop), I was always considered very well dressed at college and at my pre-healthcare office jobs. I lost all my clothes a few years ago when the building I lived in had a bad mold outbreak. Thankfully I have very little need of a suit these days, but I would like to have one on hand when I need it. Any suggestions?
 

Cuvier

One of the Regulars
Messages
249
Location
Texas
I'm a fan of Chester Cordite. I have a couple of suits, several jackets and trousers, and quite a few shirts from them. A touch expensive but great quality and very unique.
 

GHT

Messages
10,501
Location
New Forest
Savvy Row, https://www.savvyrow.co.uk/collections/suits is a play on the famous Savile Row in the Mayfair district of London.
The price of a new Savile Row suit can vary quite a bit, with a Huntsman bespoke suit starting at £4,600 and a mere £6,600 at Edward ***ton. However, behind the price tag, there is a story of craftsmanship, tradition and economics that most people rarely see. Savile Row is renowned for producing the highest level of tailoring in the world, with every garment taking 60 to 80 hours of work by the Master Tailor.

Savvy Row sell Savile Row suits, albeit second hand, for hundreds rather than thousands of pounds. Check them out, you might just find that one suit you are looking for.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
26,271
Location
London, UK
For earing out without worry, I've been very happy with the bits I have from Revival Vintage - https://revivalvintage.co.uk/?shop_...n+profile+shop:account_uuid&shop_sign_in=true

For basic trousers, www.darcyclothing.com is hard to beat.

These days , it's all about the reproduction for me; genuine vintage in my size is now super-rare and crazy expensive, even moreso if it's actually wearable. My years of spending all night worrying about whether my clothes are going to be damaged by me wearing them for more than a photoshoot re well behind me now.
 

GHT

Messages
10,501
Location
New Forest
For earing out without worry, I've been very happy with the bits I have from Revival Vintage - https://revivalvintage.co.uk/?shop_consented_scopes=email:verified+openid+pay:session_token+profile+shop:account_uuid&shop_sign_in=true

For basic trousers, www.darcyclothing.com is hard to beat.

These days , it's all about the reproduction for me; genuine vintage in my size is now super-rare and crazy expensive, even moreso if it's actually wearable. My years of spending all night worrying about whether my clothes are going to be damaged by me wearing them for more than a photoshoot re well behind me now.
Revival Vintage is good quality, Cuvier mentioned Chester Cordite, I would endorse them too.
Your comment, Edward "genuine vintage in my size is now super-rare and crazy expensive, even moreso if it's actually wearable." did make me smile. By good fortune the lady that I married is rather talented with her sewing machine.
It was the genuine vintage that really struck a chord. Tina has an impressive collection of vintage, period paper patterns, so although the garment she makes is new, it's design is original. How many Loungers have buttoned flies on their trousers?
buttoned fly.JPG Button-Flies.JPG
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
26,271
Location
London, UK
Revival Vintage is good quality, Cuvier mentioned Chester Cordite, I would endorse them too.
Your comment, Edward "genuine vintage in my size is now super-rare and crazy expensive, even moreso if it's actually wearable." did make me smile. By good fortune the lady that I married is rather talented with her sewing machine.
It was the genuine vintage that really struck a chord. Tina has an impressive collection of vintage, period paper patterns, so although the garment she makes is new, it's design is original. How many Loungers have buttoned flies on their trousers?
View attachment 772896 View attachment 772897

That's the way of it. I've collected a few patterns over the years that are original, though will likely need scaled up for me. Makes all the difference, though. Tina could sell a lot of these if she ever fancied a sideline..
 

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