What Is the Allure of Japanese Leather Jackets?

[Brandrea33]

That’s really great detail ^^^^. Thank you!

 

[Jasonissm]

I have the old RMC J-100 in size 42. I would want a 44 in that pattern now I have an extra inch around the belly.
The old pattern is the BJ9110, new pattern is BJ19110, it also has white inside pocket vs black.
There is still a NOS 44 BJ9110 left in the RMC Ibaraki store at the old price.

BUCO J-100 JACKET / HORSEHIDE

ヴェジタブル100%タンニングでありながら、粘りを持った革に到達した。シングルライダースジャケットのスタンダードモデル。■マテリアル/ホースハイド:植物タンニンなめし、ピグメント仕上げ ライニング:レ…

the-realmccoys.ocnk.net

Someone bought the 42 and 46 since I was last there
Judging by your TFH and Vanson E fit I think you need at least the 44 in the old pattern, and it will be T shirt fit. Here is how my BJ9110 42 measures, rediculous high arm holes, I need about 11" there to be comfortable, size 42 is only 10", my comfort zone is between 11" to 12". I have the same Vanson E 44 as you and it's 13" there, which is an inch too much for me.

View attachment 528113
Shoulders fit like a shirt, but there is enough curve length, very good pattern:
View attachment 528114

Drop 7 to waist on the old pattern, very aggressive. I wear 35.5"/36" jeans waist and I have to suck in now. Motivated to lose the one pack...
View attachment 528115
View attachment 528116

Flares out 2" around bottom opening to accomodate the belt:
View attachment 528117

The new pattern BJ19110 in size 42 has 1" wider shoulder and an extra inch ease in the waist and hem from what I see in the photos, very much like my Rainbow Country racer but no action back. I like the old pattern, it's different than everything else I have. I will either bite the bullet for the 44 or lose the belly...

Fantastic write up, thanks for a lot of those details and explaining the difference. The leather on that back panel is incredible, lot of depth, grain and nice sheen to the leather. I have PMed you to ask a bit more, cheers!

 

[89Speedy]

Am creating this thread to educate myself and others about current Japanese manufacturers as well to elicit opinions as to whether they are a good investment. I have found rather limited information about some Japanese firms.

I realize there may be threads about individual makers, but thought it might be helpful to have a "one-stop shopping" thread for anyone considering a Japanese-made jacket. Apologies in advance if a similar thread already exists.

Please bear with me as I provide some background for the discussion. Just as "American made" is no guarantee of quality, I am not convinced that a leather jacket made in Japan is an assurance of quality. I sometimes wonder if Japanese makers are playing upon stereotypes of Japan to justify higher-priced jackets. Immediately below are some statements found on some popular Japanese jacket maker websites...

"Constructed by Japan’s diligent and hardworking people, products that are ‘Made in Japan’ are praised for their high quality and beautiful design."

"They source custom leathers and fabrics from around the world, with a manufacturing home-base in Japan that sets the standard of quality."

In addition to hard-working people, Japan is also known for low wages and high rates of alcoholism. I wonder if some have this vision of a "hard-working, diligent Japanese craftsman" sewing their jacket when, in reality, it is a low-paid, alcoholic.

If we are going to question quality in China and Taiwan, as we have for many years, I think it only fair to question quality in Japan. Having done business in Asia, I have seen manufacturing operations behind the scenes and just like everywhere, they play games to drive down costs. Tracing the manufacturing history of a product in Asia can be challenging.

I like it when I can look at a company's website and see the person(s) behind the company and a pride in its heritage. I find that lacking when I look at some of the Japanese maker websites.

It concerns me that a company's best jacket maker(s) may be gone tomorrow without our knowledge and we don't see quality drop off until the damage is done. For me, this is a big question. Even if a company is making great jackets today, how do we know that one year from today things have not changed in order to drive down costs?

I do business with a certain leather manufacturer in America. I can talk to the owner and find out the name of the person sewing my product and his/her resume. It raises skepticism when I see a $2000+ jacket and I have no idea who is making it.

So, if some of you have some stories, good or bad, to tell about your personal dealings with Japanese makers, please share! And thank you for doing so.

I think your premise is valid but shows ignorance regarding the Japanese culture.

 

[89Speedy]

I've always found this fascinating as well. The Japanese fantasy of post war America, greaser culture...Harley Davidson. It's all so romanticized. It's like a memory of something that never really happened. That romanticism has produced some incredible clothes and truly beautiful motorcycles! Zero engineering is one of my favorite bike builders out of Japan:

Austere simplicity at it's finest.

Damn that's a gorgeous bike!