What Hat Are You Wearing Today 1?

[hatophile]

Monday's hat, Black OR from San Antonio

Tuesday VS

Wow, these photos are huge.

 

[tommyK]

Huge and full of greatness, Perry!

 

[mayserwegener]

I think that in Europe handbashing isn't common.
First of all the felt/stiffener that is produced/used here isn't ideal for that. The only quality i actually think I get a decent result in is the Canadian beaver capelines I have.

Most hats you buy here are blocked a certain shape and it's meant to keep it that way.
I do agree that your hat is a lot more versatile if you can handbash, yet I also like a very clean line on a hat.
It might also be different with women's hats. But I haven't seen a lot of handbashable hats in Europe.

As you move into the late 1950s and early 1960s that became the norm (machine formed) pretty much everywhere (including America) regarding factory made soft felt city dress style hats. The lone exception were the Italian makers (Borsalino, Panizza, Barbisio, Cervo) who were the last (Borsalino being the last, mid 1980s) of the great soft felt city dress style hat makers. P. & C. Habig (Austria) and Mayser (Germany) made high quality soft felt city dress style hats into the 1980s but they were machine formed.

 

[EstherWeis]

As you move into the late 1950s and early 1960s that became the norm (machine formed) pretty much everywhere (including America) regarding factory made soft felt city dress style hats. The lone exception were the Italian makers (Borsalino, Panizza, Barbisio, Cervo) who were the last (Borsalino being the last, mid 1980s) of the great soft felt city dress style hat makers. P. & C. Habig (Austria) and Mayser (Germany) made high quality soft felt city dress style hats into the 1980s but they were machine formed.

I have one quality I can easily do it in, they call it the " hunter felt" very sturdy and thick felt.
And the beaver, but that's clearly not EU made.

It depends on the person wearing the hat too,many of my customers ask for an extra stiffened crown so the dents will stay put.
Personal preference and what you're used too I suppose.

As for machine formed hats, most are indeed blocked by machines ( 2 magnets really) so felt that's too thin will just rip.
The modern produced velours is as tough a nails to block though, my hands start to hurt after blocking the brim on a flange.
Since I do everything by hand I often use the very thin felt, since it's softer, lighter and more pleasant to wear...

 

[Miamibruno]

Short Balding – Great colors on your hats. This VS as well. Nice.

Joao – You never cease to amaze me with those brims. You could land a jet on those things.

Esther – Gorgeous hat. Try holding the middle back of the crown and then shaping the front. Works for me.

40Cal – Still a gorgeous hat. Love those older Marathons.

Mayser – You “find” a lot of gorgeous hats including that black Peschel.

Ingeneer – That hat suits you perfectly!

TommyK – Nice classic. You just can’t beat them.

HistoryTeach – Awesome hat. LOVE that brim binding.

Fruno – A pair of beauties. The hats, I mean. Bob will be so excited. I just can’t bring myself to turn that brim up.

Hato – Great pair of hats. Love to see the black hats out. Great ribbon-felt combo on the VS.

For me on Tuesday, my Blue Marathon and today, my Bond Royal Quality.

 

[Miamibruno]

I'll get the hang of this new fangled website at some point.

 

[Frunobulax]

Fruno – A pair of beauties. The hats, I mean. Bob will be so excited. I just can’t bring myself to turn that brim up.

Thank you, sir! You don't look so shabby yourself. Bob's having an influence on me - that one doesn't look to bad on me brim up.

 

[1mach1]

Fruno, that one looks great on you.

Perry, two nice selections.

Miami, looking good, sir!!

 

[mayserwegener]

I have one quality I can easily do it in, they call it the " hunter felt" very sturdy and thick felt.
And the beaver, but that's clearly not EU made.

It depends on the person wearing the hat too,many of my customers ask for an extra stiffened crown so the dents will stay put.
Personal preference and what you're used too I suppose.

As for machine formed hats, most are indeed blocked by machines ( 2 magnets really) so felt that's too thin will just rip.
Since I do everything by hand I often use the very thin felt, since it's softer, lighter and more pleasant to wear...

Borsalino was the last of the factory made hats (super high quality until the family sold the business in the mid 1980s and closed the old factory) with super high quality + pliable felt (most made of rabbit or hare for long finishes). This (soft thin pliable felt) was Borsalino's claim to fame going way back (early 1900s). The other Italian makers also did a great job into the late 1970s. Panizza closed their factory in that time period. They also made great felt / hats up to the end.

It's possible to machine form lighter weight felt. Machine metal forms actually go way back. Beaver felt does not produce a more pliable felt. It produces a very dense felt (due to its great felting characteristics) which is great for smooth finishes. It had it's place but it was not end all be all that is pushed here. Austrian Velours were at the highest price point and they were made of Hare (Saxon Hare being the finest). Felt production methods changed post WWII so it's not fair to compare felt (especially fur types with less felting ability) from say the 1920s to what is produced today (this also applies to high end factory made hats). Also fur blends were very common in pre WWII Europe. I have even come across Beaver - Wool blends.

By the way my views on felt (heavily debated topic on the FL) are certainly not the norm (same with my hat collection).

FEPSA out of Portugal is producing Beaver felt. I have no experience with it (my interest is European vintage, mostly 1930s and older) but from what I hear (from people I trust) it's of high quality.

 

[40Cal]

Fruno- Great Disney! I just got my first about a week ago. They are top notch.
Miami- Love the look . That Bond is incredible!

Today i am wearing my Stetson Turf club.... Zephyr weight..... ( semi- symmetrical dents)

 

[EstherWeis]

Borsalino was the last of the factory made hats (super high quality until the family sold the business in the mid 1980s and closed the old factory) with super high quality + pliable felt (most made of rabbit or hare for long finishes). This (soft thin pliable felt) was Borsalino's claim to fame going way back (early 1900s). The other Italian makers also did a great job into the late 1970s. Panizza closed their factory in that time period. They also made great felt / hats up to the end.

It's possible to machine form lighter weight felt. Machine metal forms actually go way back. Beaver felt does not produce a more pliable felt. It produces a very dense felt (due to its great felting characteristics) which is great for smooth finishes. It had it's place but it was not end all be all that is pushed here. Austrian Velours were at the highest price point and they were made of Hare (Saxon Hare being the finest). Felt production methods changed post WWII so it's not fair to compare felt (especially fur types with less felting ability) from say the 1920s to what is produced today (this also applies to high end factory made hats). Also fur blends were very common in pre WWII Europe. I have even come across Beaver - Wool blends.

By the way my views on felt (heavily debated topic on the FL) are certainly not the norm (same with my hat collection).

FEPSA out of Portugal is producing Beaver felt. I have no experience with it (my interest is European vintage, mostly 1930s and older) but from what I hear (from people I trust) it's of high quality.

The vintage velours i've used are like you said impossible to compare to new ones. The way they block etc.
Then again, I've got some top notch quality material that I can buy today.
They may have to fix my thumbs in 10 yrs, but that comes with the territory.
The one thing I will say is that the vintage ones loose less "fluff" than modern day ones during the blocking process.

As for the FEPSA beaver, never used those either. I might in the future, but for now I'm quite pleased with the ones I have.
The cashmere is also a nice quality, yet those are so tough to block.


Okay, back on topic. Sorry guys!

 

[Bob Roberts]

NOS Stetson " Windham " in Mink.

 

[Bob Roberts]

I think that in Europe handbashing isn't common.
First of all the felt/stiffener that is produced/used here isn't ideal for that. The only quality i actually think I get a decent result in is the Canadian beaver capelines I have.

Most hats you buy here are blocked a certain shape and it's meant to keep it that way.
I do agree that your hat is a lot more versatile if you can handbash, yet I also like a very clean line on a hat.
It might also be different with women's hats. But I haven't seen a lot of handbashable hats in Europe.

I too prefer a clean line. I don't like crinkle/wrinkled clothes either.

 

[Bob Roberts]

Well, everything seems to be up and running. I'm sure there are bugs to work out, but at least we're all back in the same place.

What if the FL went away? Would the lack of a synergistic community have a measurable effect on hat sales? eBay activity? Hmmmm....

Still wading through the remnants of Patricia. Today, my first vintage purchase, a Disney 20 originally sold at Washer Brothers in the Worth of Forts, Texas. BTW, speaking of FTW, David, that Adam is spectacular!

I like the wide ribbon. Looking good with the brim down too.

 

[Bob Roberts]

Monday's hat, Black OR from San Antonio

Tuesday VS

Wow, these photos are huge.

So are those crowns.

 

[Bob Roberts]

View attachment 37195 View attachment 37196 View attachment 37197 View attachment 37198
Short Balding – Great colors on your hats. This VS as well. Nice.

Joao – You never cease to amaze me with those brims. You could land a jet on those things.

Esther – Gorgeous hat. Try holding the middle back of the crown and then shaping the front. Works for me.

40Cal – Still a gorgeous hat. Love those older Marathons.

Mayser – You “find” a lot of gorgeous hats including that black Peschel.

Ingeneer – That hat suits you perfectly!

TommyK – Nice classic. You just can’t beat them.

HistoryTeach – Awesome hat. LOVE that brim binding.

Fruno – A pair of beauties. The hats, I mean. Bob will be so excited. I just can’t bring myself to turn that brim up.

Hato – Great pair of hats. Love to see the black hats out. Great ribbon-felt combo on the VS.

For me on Tuesday, my Blue Marathon and today, my Bond Royal Quality.

Yes, Frunos up brim excited me... 2 beauties Miama.

 

[1mach1]

.40, that is a sweet Turf Club!

Esther, looking dapper as usual.

Bob, I like the mink color, and the brim binding!

 

[Bob Roberts]

I'll get the hang of this new fangled website at some point.

I still can't get Tapatalk. Seems u got pics happnin fine in the regular format though.

 

[40Cal]

Thank you Harv.
looking good Bob! +1 on the brim binding

 

[Bob Roberts]

Thank you, sir! You don't look so shabby yourself. Bob's having an influence on me - that one doesn't look to bad on me brim up.

Hahahaha but are you drinking more and smoking cigars...? I do njoy switching brims up and down.