Vintage Millinery Singer Sewing Machines (Sweatbands, Binding, Ribbons, ETC)

[Miamibruno]

Any chance you have a user manual for the 46-100?

Thanks, Human

 

[humanshoes]

I have the Singer 46-100 for unreeded sweats. Still can't work it right, but I have it.

Great machine. Always that damn learning curve though. I have the Singer 176-24 fur machine that has the same basic set-up without the hat hardware. I've found that it works best with very light tension on the thread.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks, Mayser. I haven't seen any of your gorgeous hats in a while, but I - and this is unfortunate considering the circumstances - I now find myself with time to browse TFL.

Adrian, Thanks! I found some nice ones over the past year. I also have a backlog of historical documentation I need to translate and post. With the lock down I should now have the time.

 

[mayserwegener]

If you have questions about specific machines I might be able to find answers.

 

[humanshoes]

Any chance you have a user manual for the 46-100?

Thanks, Human

I don't, but here's a link for a 176 user's manual. The threading and oiling points should be the same. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/364445/Singer-176-11.html?page=5#manual

 

[Miamibruno]

I don't, but here's a link for a 176 user's manual. The threading and oiling points should be the same. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/364445/Singer-176-11.html?page=5#manual

Thank you! I'll take a look.

 

[Miamibruno]

Wow. That web site has manuals for the 46K26 and 46K48 which are very close to the 46-100. Thank you so much. This should come in very handy.

 

[Miamibruno]

If you have questions about specific machines I might be able to find answers.

The 46-100 is the machine I have. Thank you for anything you can do.

Adrian

 

[humanshoes]

Wow. That web site has manuals for the 46K26 and 46K48 which are very close to the 46-100. Thank you so much. This should come in very handy.

Happy to help anyone who's willing to go through the frustration (and joy) of breathing new life into those old machines. Good luck.

 

[Miamibruno]

Thank you!

 

[Ryan Ram]

Hey guys, not sure this is the right thread to reach out to but I had before when I got my 107. I recently acquired a 114-21. The cutting mechanism wasn’t working, but I managed to weld something together that seems To be doing the trick with just the hand reel.

In learning more about the machine, I had two questions wondering anyone might know the answers to:

1) for this machine and it’s stitching mechanism, does it make sense to set it up with motor that runs automatically without pedal engagement? Given your pedal engagement is really pressing to activate the driver wheel to perform the tack stitch?
2) I understand why this machine should be set up with the driving belt vertical, but I also have a 108W20 and in the picture on the manual it’s belt is vertical too. Is there a rule of thumb as to which machines are generally supposed to be set up right Over the motor vs in front of it, angling the belt? Apologies if this is a dumb question, more just out of curiosity.
Appreciate any feedback. Thanks!

 

[Kapalutch770]

Hey! I have got a Pribil sewing machine and I would like to sell it. If somebody is interested in it please send me a message!

 

[Kapalutch770]

Hello. Are the Pribil machines still for sale?

 

[Ryan Ram]

Hey guys, not sure this is the right thread to reach out to but I had before when I got my 107. I recently acquired a 114-21. The cutting mechanism wasn’t working, but I managed to weld something together that seems To be doing the trick with just the hand reel.

In learning more about the machine, I had two questions wondering anyone might know the answers to:

1) for this machine and it’s stitching mechanism, does it make sense to set it up with motor that runs automatically without pedal engagement? Given your pedal engagement is really pressing to activate the driver wheel to perform the tack stitch?
2) I understand why this machine should be set up with the driving belt vertical, but I also have a 108W20 and in the picture on the manual it’s belt is vertical too. Is there a rule of thumb as to which machines are generally supposed to be set up right Over the motor vs in front of it, angling the belt? Apologies if this is a dumb question, more just out of curiosity.
Appreciate any feedback. Thanks!

I figured this out. Just need to figure out the cutting mechanism and will be good to go.

 

[Zephyr Union]

Buried deep in the bowels of the "Photos of Hatter's Tools" thread there is a great picture tutorial on how to properly bell a sweatband posted by a guy that went by the handle "John Galt". Invaluable.

Can’t seem to find that belling page on the thread...

 

[humanshoes]

Can’t seem to find that belling page on the thread...

Photos of hatters tools | Page 28 | The Fedora Lounge

 

[Zephyr Union]

Photos of hatters tools | Page 28 | The Fedora Lounge

Thanks , the pictures won’t seem to load.... just says img...

 

[humanshoes]

Remove the plastic reed from sweatband and trim sweatband to desired length then:
1. Re-insert reed and trim to about 1/2" longer than sweatband
2. Crimp ferrule in the middle
3. Insert reed ends into ferrule
4. Starting from rear of sweatband, stitch through the reed tape to draw the sweatband ends together (this process will bell the sweatband)
5. Make 3 to 4 stitches to make sure the seam is tight and then tie off at rear of sweatband.
6. If you've measured everything correctly, then your sweatband should now fit properly into the hat.
I hope this helps you, and possibly some others, out.

 

[Zephyr Union]

View attachment 325812 View attachment 325813 View attachment 325814 View attachment 325815 View attachment 325816 View attachment 325817 View attachment 325818 View attachment 325819
Remove the plastic reed from sweatband and trim sweatband to desired length then:
1. Re-insert reed and trim to about 1/2" longer than sweatband
2. Crimp ferrule in the middle
3. Insert reed ends into ferrule
4. Starting from rear of sweatband, stitch through the reed tape to draw the sweatband ends together (this process will bell the sweatband)
5. Make 3 to 4 stitches to make sure the seam is tight and then tie off at rear of sweatband.
6. If you've measured everything correctly, then your sweatband should now fit properly into the hat.
I hope this helps you, and possibly some others, out.

Humanshoes you’re the fucking man !!! Been trying to figure this out for the better part of a year, & will make this investment in a 107 clone start to make sense !!

 

[Zephyr Union]

View attachment 325812 View attachment 325813 View attachment 325814 View attachment 325815 View attachment 325816 View attachment 325817 View attachment 325818 View attachment 325819
Remove the plastic reed from sweatband and trim sweatband to desired length then:
1. Re-insert reed and trim to about 1/2" longer than sweatband
2. Crimp ferrule in the middle
3. Insert reed ends into ferrule
4. Starting from rear of sweatband, stitch through the reed tape to draw the sweatband ends together (this process will bell the sweatband)
5. Make 3 to 4 stitches to make sure the seam is tight and then tie off at rear of sweatband.
6. If you've measured everything correctly, then your sweatband should now fit properly into the hat.
I hope this helps you, and possibly some others, out.

What’s going on in the first pic , it wont seem to load....