Vintage Horsehide Buco J-24

[ton312]

I have to disagree with you. Some j24's are exceptionally nice jackets, both in terms of leather and construction quality. My hh j24 is one of the nicest vintage jackets in my collection.

The later steerhide ones aren't all that nice though. The topcoat wears off very fast and the stitching is pretty sloppy.

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Later steerhide j24l

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Nice for sure but the Buco’s I’ve handled (to be fair only 2) are a very far cry from the dozen or so Cals I’ve owned. Cal made some duds too though. But nevertheless, IMO, Buco at its finest is still a solid tier below Cal at its finest.

Unfortunately I owned all my Cals (for the most part) prior to participating actively here, so I don’t really have the photo records of either to really back it up. The HH used in late 50’s early 60’s Cals, the really heavy stuff, it has no vintage or modern comparable that I’ve found. In my mind 90% of Buco is driven by Japanese hype. You would’ve paid more for a vintage Bates in 2002 than you would’ve paid for your Buco.

 

[ton312]

In relation to the quality of the steerhide Buco jackets I’ve had/seen, I can agree on the quality comparison to the horsehide counterparts.

The steerhide jackets are budget builds and reflect what must've been a strain on the brand to obtain quality HH. Odd that other makers, like Cal and Langlitz, were still using HH well past the time when Buco went to cow.

 

[Marc mndt]

uco at its finest is still a solid tier below Cal at its finest.

This j31 is definitely buco at its finest. Leather and finish but also design. Much more intricate than any Cal.

 

[Marc mndt]

The steerhide jackets are budget builds and reflect what must've been a strain on the brand to obtain quality HH. Odd that other makers, like Cal and Langlitz, were still using HH well past the time when Buco went to cow.

My theory is that the steerhide used by buco looked nice when new. Similar to their hh. It just didn't age all that well.

 

[ton312]

My theory is that the steerhide used by buco looked nice when new. Similar to their hh. It just didn't age all that well.

I think you'll notice a significant difference beyond the weight and thickness between the the two. 60's era cowhide for whatever reason just wasn't very good leather, with very few exceptions. Bates jackets from the 60's are great, but they are also painted and generally cut from thicker hide.

 

[handymike]

The black steerhide used by Kehoe is really nice. Thinner-yes, but I like that.

 

[Marc mndt]

with very few exceptions

60s Schott steerhide, beautiful really.

 

[photo2u]

60s Schott steerhide, beautiful really.

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Nice leather. The design is ok. Passiac is so much better IMHO. Those leather production years yield beautiful hides for makers. Reed,Cal,Passiac, and Schot manufactured epic garments using those very similar leathers.

 

[ton312]

Might be 70's? This type of painted cow is what made Bate so great in my mind.

 

[ton312]

And here's a fine example of what I consider to be lower quality cow from the 60's

 

[photo2u]

Might be 70's? This type of painted cow is what made Bate so great in my mind.
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Based on the jacket I currently own. I think is more like the early '60s. That includes my HD first production white label, Reed, first production label (have 4 different labels in the very same jacket but the hide is different) Passaic, and Cal's. All CR designs. My 70's Bates CR reminds me slightly of Vanson's leather. I am actually putting back a jacket my daughter just used last night. Will share some images.

 

[photo2u]

HD early 60

I used to rock this jacket in 1979 when I purchased it at a hot rod swap meet in Pomona. I then quickly got some Cals,Californias and Buco in the same year. No Bates, they were very expensive for my limited budget. They all hold a sentimental value and many family members rock them as they should.

 

[reaganmullins]

60s Schott steerhide, beautiful really.

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Here is my Schott steerhide. The patina is great in-person and the leather is still surprisingly soft. The steerhide wore really well.

 

[photo2u]

Still in the hunt for that nice size 44 one-pocket sportster. Here is a 1970s bates. The hide is very nice. Thicker than HD and very close to the 60's hides I previously referred to.

 

[AHP91]

I don’t understand the animosity. I paid the lady her asking price (which was in the hundreds) and we were both happy.

Thank you for the comment though!

And I don't understand your original question. Now you know - the seller wasn't paid fairly. Are you going to send her a money order or check to cover the difference?

 

[reaganmullins]

And I don't understand your original question. Now you know - the seller wasn't paid fairly. Are you going to send her a money order or check to cover the difference?

I think “fairly” means different things to different people. No need to be bitter.

I actually did send her more money today, thank you for checking in. I just didn’t see it necessary to update everyone. I’ll be sure to add that to the original post so that there is no future confusion

 

[Aloysius]

I want to be sure I paid her fairly.

I paid the lady her asking price (which was in the hundreds) and we were both happy.

I do have to say these seem to contradict each other. The first reads like you wanting to compensate her in case you underpaid (you did); the second has you saying actually you didn't?

I actually did send her more money today, thank you for checking in. I just didn’t see it necessary to update everyone. I’ll be sure to add that to the original post so that there is no future confusion

Okay, this clarifies it. It was confusing without.

The reason so many of us were curious/skeptical is that with this particular brand of jacket, people do this a lot. One guy acted mortally offended that I suggested he was a flipper. He has listed the jacket at 10x what he paid.

 

[reaganmullins]

I do have to say these seem to contradict each other. The first reads like you wanting to compensate her in case you underpaid (you did); the second has you saying actually you didn't?



Okay, this clarifies it. It was confusing without.

The reason so many of us were curious/skeptical is that with this particular brand of jacket, people do this a lot. One guy acted mortally offended that I suggested he was a flipper. He has listed the jacket at 10x what he paid.

I am, in many instances, a “flipper”. I sold vintage clothing and antiques as my main source of income for years. However, leather goods are not my “forte”. With that being said, I am passionate about the jackets and their history and I’m here to learn more.

 

[AHP91]

I think “fairly” means different things to different people. No need to be bitter.

I actually did send her more money today, thank you for checking in. I just didn’t see it necessary to update everyone. I’ll be sure to add that to the original post so that there is no future confusion

A quick search on eBay reveals pages upon pages of horsehide Buco J-24s at any time. You happened to rush over to this one though? You wanted to make sure that the seller was compensated correctly on this low-priced jacket? And you've been looking for one and you had no idea of the current market value of it? Good luck on the flip

 

[reaganmullins]

A quick search on eBay reveals pages upon pages of horsehide Buco J-24s at any time. You happened to rush over to this one though? You wanted to make sure that the seller was compensated correctly on this low-priced jacket? And you've been looking for one and you had no idea of the current market value of it? Good luck on the flip

Thank you for the well wishes! I’ll keep you updated as to if/when I decide to sell it