Vanson Maverick

[ton312]

17” shoulder:

19” shoulder:

Shoulder width is one of the primary measurements I use in determining fit. If the shoulders are wide enough there is wiggle room on the chest. If the shoulders are too narrow the jacket simply does not fit.

If I had forced my arms down to my side in the first photo I would have likely turned the jacket into a vest. It’s not rocket science. It’s not even lawn mower science.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Size 40 along the shoulder curve is 50cm, size 42 along the curve is 52cm. Straight across is usally about an inch to inch and half less depending on how tall the shoulder slope is.

For type III jacket the design has wider than normal shoulder width. So this will sort of throw things off a bit.

If you are in the USA you can just call them and order both and send back the one that doesn't work. They're still free shipping within the US but you'll have to pay return postage which is not a lot and totally worth it. If you are outside of USA then you gotta take a gamble. Vanson has upgraded their motochap leathers for the current offering, making their trucker jacket probably the best bang for the buck at the moment imo.

PS the Japanese retailer measure along the curve, here in the forum usually measure straight across (like a straight yoke) Vanson's nape measurement is basically half of the Japanese along the curve plus the sleeve length, like how dress shirts used to be sold, for example, 16"-35" (16" neck 35" nape sleeve length)

 

[Brandrea33]

Interesting conversation folks.

My two cents … the chest measurement is the most important (to me). The shoulders seem to vary more on the jackets I own, but the chest is relatively consistent.

 

[thebruin]

When I emailed Vanson less than 2 years ago, they were able to give me the ptp and shoulder measurements for a maverick 40 and 42.
Ptp 43" and 45"
Shoulder 19.75" and 20"

I have a maverick in a 44 and the ptp is 22.5 maybe 23 if you really stretch it and 19.5 for the shoulders.
I find it a bit snug in the chest for a 44.

Thanks for the input! I am a bit confused why your size 44 Maverick is smaller than the meausrement on the size 42?

 

[JB1]

Thanks for the input! I am a bit confused why your size 44 Maverick is smaller than the meausrement on the size 42?

Mine is measured layed flat arm pit to arm pit

 

[Monitor]

Alright, let's try this the other way.

In what way does the so called "shoulder measurement" affect the leather garment displayed below?

 

[Monitor]

Regardless, I won't change your mind and you are buying good jackets with shoulders done right, anyway, so you won't ever have to worry about it - but! - I still firmly stand by my conviction that the less you (think you) know about a certain jacket, the better.

Chest width is the most important number and one that determines all else and you still needn't know it. But every other number can differentiate by two inches, and the jacket will still fit you.

It's all so very complicated. Once I had gotten into tailoring, I realized how freaking stupid I was thinking I have a clue about anything.

Just buy your size.

 

[El Marro]

shoulder width doesn't matter
shoulder width is critical

Both are right, it depends on the pattern and overall shaping of the jacket.

My thoughts exactly and you express them so simply and perfectly! On a jacket where the shoulders extend into the upper sleeve opening, you can obviously go with a tighter measurement seam to seam.
I understand what @Monitor is saying and I agree that shoulder measurement is not necessarily as useful a metric as something like back length (it’s either long enough or it’s not). I do think it is an important consideration, though, and I have absolutely had jackets that didn’t fit because they were too tight across the shoulders.

 

[Aloysius]

Seam vs raglan are basically a completely different type of garment though. With raglan you have much more room although even then not infinite.

Like I have a Sugar Cane shirt with a kimono type sleeve so I can wear it in two different sizes; the medium fits like a normal shirt with the shoulder yoke matching my shoulders, the large has it become part of the sleeve basically, which is the most flattering look. Although even then I could not wear the small because the shoulders would be too small.

Physics still applies; if the bones of your shoulders don't fit into something, it won't fit. Shoulders can match you or be extended (this is a common technique in tailoring especially to help create a flattering V-shape).