The Thread to Display Your 1930s Suits

[herringbonekid]

I would imagine a long roll line would look WORSE on a "bold look" suit that already has an extremely low button stance.

here's one: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...-Look-Double-Breasted-Pinstripe-Suit-sz-40-42

to me, there's little difference in overall effect if the long line is achieved by 'rolling' the lapel to the bottom button, or by having a 4 x 1 fastening.

 

[Fastuni]

to me, there's little difference in overall effect if the long line is achieved by 'rolling' the lapel to the bottom button, or by having a 4 x 1 fastening.

Yes, for those jackets closing on the pocket line.

Somewhat different are the (to my knowledge almost exclusively European) 4x1 jackets closing above the pocket line. The lapel length here is similar to low set 6x2 Bold Look jackets from the same time.
I prefer this version for it's understatement and elegance, as compared to the Bold Look.

 

[herringbonekid]

thinking about it, perhaps the bottom fastening looks unbalanced to me on these 30s examples because they still have a lot more waist suppression than the later bold look 'boxier' styles.
when a jacket has a very defined waist it seems natural for the main button to operate at that height, in order to give the 'nipped waist' look. fastening below the waist is a bit like two looks in one; one nipped, one looser.

(anyway, these are all subjective opinions. i hope you're not offended by any of them Guttersnipe. )

 

[Two Types]

Exactly ... and it all depends on the wearers bodyshape etc.

 

[Sir RBH]

thats a lovely looking suit!!

 

[Tomasso]

If memory serves it was the DoW who began using the bottom button closure to create a longer lapel line in order to visually disguise his midgetlike stature.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I thought it was his brother, later George VI, who popularised that configuration.

 

[herringbonekid]

i thought it was supposed to be the Duke of Kent... :eusa_doh:

 

[Baron Kurtz]

ha!

None of 'em were tall, and it's a look that looks particularly bad on short slim men (in my opinion and experience), so you have to wonder why they would favour the style.

 

[herringbonekid]

some men's forums/blogs refer to this style as the 'Kent'.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Maybe they tried to strech boundaries of the dresscode of their time and upbringing. The original mismatched socks dudes.

One could argue that the long roll is less "buttoned up" and more causual than a high buttoning jacket?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Maybe no-one had the guts to tell the King how stumpy he looked in this suit …

 

[Guttersnipe]

(anyway, these are all subjective opinions. i hope you're not offended by any of them Guttersnipe. )

Not at all. I'm still trying to figure out what equestrian furnishings have to do with suits though (see BK's post above).

Regarding the black suit. Interestingly, I belive it was actually intended to be buttoned as a long line, at least some of the time, as it has two buttonholes for inside shank buttons.

some men's forums/blogs refer to this style as the 'Kent'.

I belive "Kent" specifically refers to a four on two configuration, which both the Duke of Kent and Prince of Wales famously buttoned at the bottom a lot.

Esquire and Apparel Arts were just gaga over that style in the early to mid-30s. What is really interesting is that, contrary to what a lot of us are saying here, at the time, the long line was suggested for both heavier and shorter frames. I guess they thought it was slimming and "verticalizing," although personally I'm not so sure about that.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The bridle in this Oxxford jacket can be seen in white, running along the line of the lapel fold from gorge to front edge. When a lapel is forced to fold where it was not intended, the bridle can often be seen as a secondary (IMO unsightly) fold in the lapel, as in the black suit above.

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.co.uk/2009/05/look-under-hood-oxxford-clothes.html

 

[herringbonekid]

^ also known as 'roll line tape' or 'roll tape'.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The important point (as you know) is that it tends to be quite a stiff part of the lapel - the better to maintain the intended roll/shape - and is difficult to press away.

 

[Mr. Purple]

This is a tweed suit (don't know the date) made by House of Lewis, of Bristol, sometime during the 1930s. I am modeling it in a Stockholm vintage menswear shop (A. Marchesan) - the suit itself I got from Bookster, though.

 

[Fastuni]

Very nice! Love the fabric.

 

[Metatron]

Very nice and timeless too.

 

[Two Types]

Nice suit and the shop looks rather good.