The most ridiculous Himel yet? Freenote Collab Beck.

[Aloysius]

I assume that the jackets are only made to order anyway. And then I can order an extension. At least I think I read this in a thread about Himel.

Usually so but this is Himel’s “RTW” sizing. I’m fascinated to meet the people who it fits* lol

*guessing many people will buy it, and it will fit none of them.

 

[handymike]

Maybe the Sleeve and Body Length columns are switched around. It would make more sense.

 

[Jasonissm]

I wonder what the hem is, from the photos it looks very boxy but I guess that's kind of how they are meant to be?

Combined with the long length, short arms, makes it look even more exaggerated and boxy.

 

[jeo]

From Himel IG. Only one stitch off on the top and two on the bottom lol. So it's ever so slightly off centered. It's settled then, he didn't try and replicate anything, he's only just as inconsistent as the originals.

 

[Canuck Panda]

If I guess correctly XL = Japanese 42 or 44 depending on brand, and the hem is somewhere from 21" to 22" side to side or 42" to 44" around.

The proportion of the jacket photo looks within acceptable range to me. I'd say its about an inch longer than the Japanese xzip jackets I have in the same size range. And the newer Japanese jackets are also longer than what I've got. There is big arc in the shoulder so there could be enough nape sleeve length.

Hair on hide would be a no for me. They fall off too easily.

And for the money there are lots of other options out there. A non refundable round-trip ticket to Japan isn't very expensive right now, they need the tourist money.

Toys Mccoy made one of these jackets before, only if I can find one in my size on the used market:

One fun fact about these earlier leathertog type jacket is that the belt goes the other way than the post war biker jackets.

 

[Aloysius]

If I guess correctly XL = Japanese 42 or 44 depending on brand, and the hem is somewhere from 21" to 22" side to side or 42" to 44" around.

The proportion of the jacket photo looks within acceptable range to me. I'd say its about an inch longer than the Japanese xzip jackets I have in the same size range. And the newer Japanese jackets are also longer than what I've got. There is big arc in the shoulder so there could be enough nape sleeve length.

Hair on hide would be a no for me. They fall off too easily.

And for the money there are lots of other options out there. A non refundable round-trip ticket to Japan isn't very expensive right now, they need the tourist money.

Toys Mccoy made one of these jackets before, only if I can find one in my size on the used market:

View attachment 499673

One fun fact about these earlier leathertog type jacket is that the belt goes the other way than the post war biker jackets.

It wouldn’t make any sense to have JDM sizing on a Canadian-made product being sold exclusively by a store in LA. In what world is the average ‘medium’ sized Los Angeleno someone with a 36 inch chest, 6 ft tall, with the arms of someone 5’9?

As for Beck 333 jackets in general, Schott (which made the original) had one as part of its standard collection for years. It was actually hugely discounted and discontinued last year; you could have picked one up for under $700!

 

[Jasonissm]

If I guess correctly XL = Japanese 42 or 44 depending on brand, and the hem is somewhere from 21" to 22" side to side or 42" to 44" around.

The proportion of the jacket photo looks within acceptable range to me. I'd say its about an inch longer than the Japanese xzip jackets I have in the same size range. And the newer Japanese jackets are also longer than what I've got. There is big arc in the shoulder so there could be enough nape sleeve length.

Hair on hide would be a no for me. They fall off too easily.

And for the money there are lots of other options out there. A non refundable round-trip ticket to Japan isn't very expensive right now, they need the tourist money.

Toys Mccoy made one of these jackets before, only if I can find one in my size on the used market:

View attachment 499673

One fun fact about these earlier leathertog type jacket is that the belt goes the other way than the post war biker jackets.

Toys McCoys model has much more reasonable measurements, the photo of the Himel makes the sleeves look very small, especially in contrast to the wide body. Chest measurement seems reasonable to me on Himel, but the torso length being so much longer than sleeve length is puzzling.





Here is the Toys McCoys

Much nicer proportion and pattern, sleeves look reasonably sized and extends past the torso.

Maybe the Sleeve and Body Length columns are switched around. It would make more sense.

That would be more reasonable but I don't think it's the case, the picture definitely looks like the sleeves are quite short compared to the torso.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Toys McCoys model has much more reasonable measurements, the photo of the Himel makes the sleeves look very small, especially in contrast to the wide body. Chest measurement seems reasonable to me on Himel, but the torso length being so much longer than sleeve length is puzzling.

View attachment 499699



Here is the Toys McCoys
View attachment 499700

Much nicer proportion and pattern, sleeves look reasonably sized and extends past the torso.


That would be more reasonable but I don't think it's the case, the picture definitely looks like the sleeves are quite short compared to the torso.

Yup I am looking for that Toys one for sure. There is a 40 on the used market now I am still waiting for a 42 to show up.

From my Japanese jackets I can see there are basically two types of shapes, one is like the Toys one or the La Brea where its a bit shorter in the torso and there is a slight drop to the hem. The other type is like the Himel where it's an inch longer in the torso and no taper. This shape isn't bad. I will take some photos for comparison. The shorter one always looks a bit cropped on me. I am ok with it but I do see where the longer one can also be in demand.

Not promoting for this Himel jacket. I still say for the money there are so many better options. Just stating the facts that I have both the shorter slightly taper ones and the longer straight ones, and they both work. I will take some fit pics all in one setting and post them to compare when I get there. The longer straight ones usually runs tighter at the pit but they do work.

Short taper ones:

Longer (Just one inch in reality, not earth shattering long, just looks and seem longer on paper)

The longer one never looks good lying flat for the photo but it looks ok and regular length on the body.

 

[Marc mndt]

The longer one never looks good lying flat for the photo but it looks ok and regular length on the body.

The problem with the Fountainhead is not the length perse. The problem is the shape, it's A shaped instead of V shaped. The shoulders are comically small, look at those epaulets! While the bottom hem is ridiculously wide.

For reference, this is what a leathertogs epaulet looks like.

 

[Edward]

Out of curiosity, how does a jacket jacket alter a sleeve to be longer?

Is it a whole new sleeve (from shoulder to end of cuff)?

I think the only option would be to alter the spec in manufacture - aren't Himel jackets made to order? It does look proportionately short compared to jackets I've owned from other makers, but sleeve length is the one thing that I've found varies so much (probably in the way it's measured, too) I'd probably have to try it on first or be measured up by them no matter what the figures were.

I think they were just cheaply made jackets in their day that had massive inconsistencies. If you look up most originals have some sort of flaw on that pocket that stands out. It's rare to see one that is perfectly centered. Also all the Toys Mccoys repros have that "flaw". I guarantee that the examples in Himel's collection had these flaws and tried to replicate it.

This is always the thing. So many of the vintage jackets we prize highly in vintage fan circles were just run of the mill, production line items back in the day. Both civilian and military - I've seen real, wartime A2s with one pocket an inch higher than the other.... Then it all comes down to individual choice whether you want that authenticity of the less than perfect, or you figure that if you are paying 2023 big money for something individually made, you want the perfect ideal rather than the reality of back when. TBH, I don't think there's a correct answer here. Different labels do their thing, and the customer can then choose what they prefer....

I quite like the look of the collar on this one, though I'm too wary of how hair on hide might wear as compared to mouton that I doubt it's an option I'd go for. Still, as new it looks nice on the collar. I'm not so sold on it on the D pocket; I think actually the D pocket in standard leather and the larger chest panels in hair on hide would look better. Did once see a picture of an Aero D pocket in Japan that was custom made for a Japanese customer, with front panels in B&W hair on hide panels. Looked fantastic.

 

[zebedee]

"...most ridiculous ... yet?' suggests that there are other ridiculous designs - I think the Canuck, for example, is great and there are several other designs that are similarly good (the Kensington, etc.).

 

[Marc mndt]

The Himel 'Landing strip'

The Himel 'miss Piggy'

 

[barnabus]

The Himel 'Landing strip'

View attachment 499976

That's reminds me of the Belstaff Racing Blouson. Which was my original gateway jacket.

 

[ton312]

The Himel 'Landing strip'

View attachment 499976

The Himel 'miss Piggy'

View attachment 499977 View attachment 499978

The miss piggy. LOOOOL. Can’t unsee that.

 

[JMax]

The Himel 'Landing strip'

View attachment 499976

The Himel 'miss Piggy'

View attachment 499977 View attachment 499978

The nuclear option on TFL. You seriously just destroyed any chance of that LT becoming a bestseller. Lol. Damn, the hide looks exactly the same, nip count and all.

 

[Aloysius]

"...most ridiculous ... yet?' suggests that there are other ridiculous designs - I think the Canuck, for example, is great and there are several other designs that are similarly good (the Kensington, etc.).

I was actually referring to the fit…

Marc’s post shows that clearly this isn’t the most ridiculous one aesthetically.

I think hair-on-hide jackets can look great by the way. I’d love to get an Aero grizzly in hair-on-hide if they offered it again.

 

[ton312]

I was actually referring to the fit…

Marc’s post shows that clearly this isn’t the most ridiculous one aesthetically.

I think hair-on-hide jackets can look great by the way. I’d love to get an Aero grizzly in hair-on-hide if they offered it again.

I don’t like the hair on hide choices in this Himel but you’re absolutely correct about the sizing. It looks like an oval and the measurements seem to confirm that. I’m not surprised. The jackets I tried on at Mildblend here in Chicago were very odd fits. Tubular, bloated gut and tiny linguine sleeve. I felt like a skewered watermelon. I should’ve taken pics but I felt that would’ve been wrong.
I know Himel can make beautiful jackets, which is why pieces like these are perplexing.

 

[zebedee]

I was actually referring to the fit…

Marc’s post shows that clearly this isn’t the most ridiculous one aesthetically.

I think hair-on-hide jackets can look great by the way. I’d love to get an Aero grizzly in hair-on-hide if they offered it again.

I spoke too soon. I hadn't seen the collaborations. Those are some rugged dugs. Unfortunate.

 

[Aloysius]

I don’t like the hair on hide choices in this Himel but you’re absolutely correct about the sizing. It looks like an oval and the measurements seem to confirm that. I’m not surprised. The jackets I tried on at Mildblend here in Chicago were very odd fits. Tubular, bloated gut and tiny linguine sleeve. I felt like a skewered watermelon. I should’ve taken pics but I felt that would’ve been wrong.
I know Himel can make beautiful jackets, which is why pieces like these are perplexing.

I think the oval shape (of a certain kind) is what certain jackets actually are (I don't know a better way to describe the actual Leathertogs buttoned cross-zip fit) but the Beck 333 is the proto-Perfecto, so this shape is just plain weird.

The locations for the hair-on-hide leather are a bit weird as well. I would expect it to shed from the collar with repeated contact, like the hair on hide patch that's on a pair of RRL jeans (repros of 1930s Lee) that I've worn pretty hard over the years. Maybe big panels were hard to source?

 

[jonbuilder]

In this case, it will be financial interests. Because if no one fits these sleeves, everyone will have to pay a surcharge for the alterations. At least that's my guess. I can't explain it any other way.

He went to school with Stu