Swedish Tanker or Dispatch coat, canvas sewing pattern?

[VansonRider]

Hey everyone!
I’ve been looking for a canvas Swedish Tanker, the double breasted coat with the big map pocket on the chest? For about six months now. Two were recently posted on EBay and the first one sold for $320.00! I was in the running but that’s just too rich for my blood!

Anyway, I’m going to keep an eye out, but meantime wondered about a sewing pattern? I thought getting a pattern and making one from a heavy canvas shelter half would do the trick.

Any idea where to find a pattern? Or heck, the actual coat for a reasonable cost?

Thanks!

 

[Seb Lucas]

A picture would help. Are you talking about the short motorbike jacket with the synthetic fur lining in a green colour and with a mandarin style collar? Surely a European military surplus store would get you one. Maybe wait until summer when they are less likely to be coveted.

http://www.mcguirearmynavy.com/Vint...cycle-Jacket-Large-w-Synthetic-Fur-Liner.html

Is that it?

To have one made will cost you around $500-$1000 unless you (or an obliging relative) can do it at home. Hard to make it look right. As you suggest, you would need to build a pattern off an original that fits you otherwise you would need to scale the pattern up or down which is challenging to do well.

 

[VansonRider]

That’s the jacket, here’s the EBay auction
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Awesome-C50-...464633?hash=item3f92e5aab9:g:VE4AAOSwxOFaal1p

I’ve seen a bunch of surplus stores that had them but are now out of stock. And I’ve done some costumes before, I’m not an amazing tailor but I could mock one up from a pattern. Just make a few from a cheap fabric till you get the sizing right before marking the final version.

I’ve seen variations of this jacket in waxed oil cloth, brown canvas, tan...
Looks great every time.

 

[Edward]

They also made them in leather. If ever I saw one I could try on, I'd be tempted too. They're an interesting design, almost retro-futurist. Like a lot of pre-1980 surplus, they used to be a lot more common than they suddenly seem to be. Course, one might say that of real army surplus shops too - most of the ones I used to trawl are now either gone, online only, or have very little surplus and sell mostly commercial-copies which may or may not be milspec, and camping gear.

 

[christian-h]

Broadway and Sons.

It’s a vintage store based in Gothenburg, Sweden. Here’s a interview with the owner, David Asseraf.

https://therake.com/stories/style/the-most-rakish-menswear-stores-on-the-planet-broadway-sons/


70’s Swedish motorcycle jacket (unfortunately sold)

https://www.broadwayandsons.com/military

40’s Swedish motorcycle jacket

https://www.broadwayandsons.com/product-page/40-s-swedish-army-motorcycle-jacket

Send an e-Mail and ask if thet stock the jacket (or direct message, Instagram).

/ Christian

 

[VansonRider]

I found and bought one on eBay, then I found this!
https://www.alckrshop.top/jacken-m%...-motorcycle-biker-army-heritage-52-p-1958.htm

 

[VansonRider]

....and the ebay seller “stefs-corner” has several more also. They were listed for 136 eu. 100 eu. and 89 eu. Depending on size and condition. I bought mine from them, in a size 48 (but waaay oversized) for 137 eu. shipped to Chicago. That’s about $185.00 and it’s a lot for the jacket, but for me it’s worth it.
It’s almost small enough to fit right, I wear a 41/42” suit jacket, and this measures out to 45/46”.

Mostly I’m excited to get my hands on the real thing to see if I can duplicate the pattern!

 

[robrinay]

Nice!

 

[VansonRider]

It came! It’s in used condition for sure, but nicer than the pictured sample. I removed the liner, and gave it a light spot clean and iron it.
This thing is GREAT. I wore it on my bicycle commute in 35f rain. The canvas obviously absorbs water but then it just floats around the fuzzy liner keeping the rider warm and dry.
The construction is complex but I think it’s copy-able.
I’m going to find the heaviest weight tan twill canvas I can get my hands on, and give it a shot.

And sizing. Go two sizes down. I wear a 42” chest, so a euro 52. My jacket is a euro-48/US-38 and it fits great. It’s snug with the liner and roomy without.