Some tips to help those who are clueless about men's fashion

[dog20]

I'm not a fashion expert. However, I just got done reading a book about men's fashion and I would like to share all the notes I took from it. I apologize for not uploading pictures but if you're unsure of what something is, just use the images search on Google. I hope these tips help someone out.

SHOES​

-Shoes are the foundation for the outfit
-Buy THICK leather sole and leather welt (signs of good quality)
-BLACK lace up OXFORDS or black or burgundy brogues w/ suit and tie
-The MORE decoration the LESS formal it is
-Soles of shoe can be replaced to save $$
-CLOSED lacing MORE formal than OPEN lacing
-Burgundy or oxblood/cordovan (darker burgundy) is a versatile color w/ suits. It can go w/ light grey, dark grey, or beige (tan).
-Brown SUEDE shoes w/ sports jackets (Don’t get black).
-The shoes should be same/similar shade of color as belt

"How many shoes do I need?"
-Start w/ basic black closed-lacing oxfords (Formal)
-Heavy burgundy brogues for less dressy events (sports jacket and trousers)

SPIT AND POLISH METHOD: Use KIWI wax polish, a soft shoe cloth wrapped around your finger, and smear a generous amount of polish. Spit a little bit on the shoe and rub TINY circles. Go over and over the circles until a shine starts to come up (If it doesn’t, add more spit). With enough patience, you won’t need to brush off excess polish.

SUITS​

-A lightweight navy suit can be worn year round.
-When shopping, wear shoes you will be wearing w/ suit and a white dress shirt
-Tie width should be similar to Lapel width and to some extent the shirt’s collar
-Peak lapels are more formal
-Single breasted three button suit is very dressy and conservative.
-NEVER close the bottom button on the suit. (The trend is to close the top two buttons of a 3 button.)
-Double breasted suits are dressier than single breasted.
-Get a “six on four” (Has six buttons but only 4 are functional (below lapel))
-A SPREAD collar looks good w/ double breasted suits
-ALL functional buttons including the inside “shank” button (which must be closed before the outside ones) need to be closed.
-The rear flap should completely cover your butt and the coat should end where your thumb meets your index finger.
-For sleeve length, a half inch of shirt cuff should be showing at all times.
-PERFECT shoulder fit rules: 1) No bump or wrinkle in fabric across the back beneath the collar. 2) The back collar of suit needs to be flat against the back collar of the dress shirt all the time.
-If there are wrinkles across the front of the jacket when you close it, it’s too small.
-AVOID shoulder pads
-Suits w/ flaps over the pocket are for casual wear.
-Avoid suit with a large pocket on one side (for cellphone)
-First suit: Single- breasted two or three buttons in charcoal (dark grey). Don’t get black because its harder to match shirts and tie due to the contrast. Material should be very fine wool (super 100s or above)
-Second suit: single-breasted plain navy, goes great w/ most colors especially pinks, purples, and reds.
3) pinstripe
4) lighter grey (summer weight)
5) black (fashion-forward or casual for evenings)

TROUSERS​

-AVOID pleats in trousers
-If you must, go for a single “reverse” pleat where the pleat is folded inwards
-Make sure thighs don’t appear too wide w/ trousers (Caused by pleats)
-The back of the pant at the heel should be 2 ½ centimeters off the floor

SUSPENDERS​

-DON’T’ wear suspenders w/ belt
-Buy plain cotton webbing w/ leather tabs for buttons (avoid flashy colors)
-Should be worn under waistcoat (IE Don’t make them visible)

WAISTCOATS/Vest​

-NEVER do up the bottom button of a single-breasted waistcoat
-The waistcoat should fit snugly across the stomach and chest w/ no wrinkles or sagging
-The top of the waistcoat will be visible between the jacket’s lapels when the jacket is closed. The back of the waistcoat will be longer than the front. The two points (tips) at the bottom should just cover the waistband of the trousers.
-OPTIONAL: attach pocket watch chain/ leather tab to second lowest waist coat button (The bottom button needs to be open)
-Wear a SINGLE-breasted waistcoat w/ regular business suits. DOUBLE-breasted waistcoat can go w/ a morning suit.
-TIP: Use dry cleaning only on the severest stains. When using an iron, make sure it’s not too hot. For delicate fabrics, put a damp cloth between the iron and garment.

SOCKS​

-AVOID loud patterns, logos, and bright red
-General rule: socks should be a shade lighter than trousers.
-When crossing legs, should only see a small glimpse of sock and NOT any flesh.
-It’s ok to break the traditional rule and experiment w/ colors, example: dark purple w/ navy suit

SHIRTS​

-AVOID colored dress shirts that have contrasting white collars and cuffs.
-Cotton shirts are a ½ an inch bigger than they say they are to make up for shrinking. Example: a 16 ½ is actually a 17.
-Buy a ½ inch larger than your neck and wash shirt so it’ll fit. Or leave space for one finger between the tape measure and your skin.
-The collar should protrude just over a centimeter above the back of your jacket. The shirt cuff should stick out the same amount past the jacket cuffs.
-FRENCH cuff dress shirt is for cuff links
-Look for “two-ply” and high thread count ex: 140/2, the best shirts go up to 220. Don’t settle for anything under 80.
-Look for removable collar stays (piece of plastic found in the collar) or buy one at a “old-fashioned”/”expensive” clothing stores.

Signs of quality:
1) Split yoke- vertical seam on the top panel of the back of the shirt
2) Patterns are matched- The lines at the yolk line up as well as at other parts of shirt
3) Gusset- Small triangle thicker than the rest of the cotton shirt. It’s found by the bottom of the side seams where the tail of the shirt meets the front and it’s used to help reinforce the material.
4) Several pleats- where sleeve meets cuff
5) Mother of pearl buttons
6) A HORIZONTAL buttonhole on sleeve packet

-The wider the distance between the tips of the collar, the fancier the shirt
-The wider the spread (collar distance), the wider the knot you will want to tie (Go for a “half Windsor” knot in most cases)
-White is the most formal color. It looks nice with a grey, black, or silver tie paired up w/ a dark charcoal suit.
-Blue is easy to match with almost every color.
-Don’t be afraid of pink, it’s flexible and matches navy, light grey, and charcoal suits, and accentuates silver, blue, yellow, green, and certain shades of purple ties. You can also match another shade of pink (tie or the pocket square).
-Navy, charcoal, and black shirts DON’T go well with lighter colored ties.

PATTERNS​

-If going w/ stripe suit, shirt, and tie, the colors should all be different and the patterns need to be notably different widths to ensure contrast.

TEXTURE​

-Waffles in a white shirt can bring it to life.
- Side pleats on the back of shirt are more formal. Center pleats on back of shirt are less formal.

 

[dog20]

TIES​

-Look for a loose stitch closing the seam on the back of the wide end for a sign of QUALITY
-Look for a loop attached to tie
-A solid color tie projects confidence.

Possible color combinations:
Pink shirt/solid silver tie/navy suit/darker pink pocket square
Light blue shirt/striped dark rose tie/charcoal suit/steel gray pocket square
Dark (French) blue shirt/solid purple tie/charcoal suit/patterned purple square
White shirt/solid orange tie/navy suit/white linen square
Grey striped suit/solid orange tie/charcoal pinstripe suit/light blue pocket square
White & blue check shirt/brown check tie/mid=grey suit/dark blue patterned square

KNOTS (Main ones)​

1)Four in hand (one I know)- makes smallest knot
2) Half Windsor- bigger than four in hand
3) Full Windsor- biggest knot (may not look good on shorter men)

-The shirt’s collar points should cover the top corners of the knot.
-Once the tie is knotted, at least one dimple/depression/half fold should emerge under the knot. This can be acquired through massaging the tie.

BOW TIES​

1) “BAT WING”- bow tie w/ pointed end
2) “Thistle”- bow tie that is butter fly shaped (thin middle and wider ends). The wide parts should not measure more than 6 centimeters across.
-The bow tie should not extend beyond the outer edges of your collar.
-Typically, bow ties are not considered sexy by the ladies.
-Bow ties are usually worn for formal events.

THE POCKET SQUARE​

-When matching tie and pocket square, aim for complimentary but not identical colors. Also, try to contrast the patterns and textures (paisley square w/ striped tie, smooth square w/ textured tie)

ACCESSORIES​

Cufflinks- avoid enormous square onyx blocks. Gemstones should be reserved for evening and social functions.
-Wear cufflinks that match the outfit.
-Try to match cufflinks to belt buckle, shirt stud, watch

Watches- the most elegant ones are the simplest and plainest (Leather straps as opposed to metal. Avoid digital watches)

BLACK TIE DRESS​

-Satin or grosgrain lapel
-Single or double breasted jacket
-Peak, notch, or shawl lapel
-No belt loops on trousers
-Uncuffed pants
-Single black ribbon down outside seam (called braid)
-Shoes should be plain black, lace-up (laces parallel NOT criss crossed), shiny. No metal buckles. Patent leather.

OPTIONAL: cummerbund or waistcoat NOT both

-White pique or “Marcella” shirt (has waffle-textured pattern) is typically worn with white tie.
-Cover the buttons, some shirts have a strip of fabric. If shirt does not have this, buy studs (must be subtle, plain black, golf, mother of pearl).
-Need cufflinks
-Avoid winged collar
-Keep tie, lapels, and trouser legs narrow.

Difference between tuxedo/dinner jacket and suit?
Tuxedo jackets have a satin lapel; tuxedo pants have a satin stripe down the outside legs. Tuxedo shirts often have a pleated front, as well as being compatible with studs and cuff links. Patent leather shoes are worn with tuxedos. Suits have a self lapel (same fabric as the body of the coat), no satin stripe down the pants, with a plain-front dress shirt and ordinary leather shoes are worn.
Traditionally, a tuxedo has a curved "shawl" lapel or a pointed "peak" lapel. Today, the majority of tuxedos have "notch" lapels like those of a common suit. Tuxedos also traditionally have only one button, compared to two or three on suits; this distinction is also less common today.

 

[Tomasso]

I just got done reading a book about men's fashion .

What book?

 

[thunderw21]

Too many 'rules', I disagree with many of them. Much of that list is fashion, not style.

My closet lives by one rule: wear what looks and feels good.

Studying the classics and developing an eye for style also helps.

 

[scotrace]

Yes. You're preaching the the best experts on the web, dog20.

(what's with the avatar?)

 

[avedwards]

Too many 'rules', I disagree with many of them. Much of that list is fashion, not style.

My closet lives by one rule: wear what looks and feels good.

Studying the classics and developing an eye for style also helps.

:arated:
Especially the "no trouser pleat" rule, bow ties are not considered sexy by the ladies, avoiding wing collars for black tie...

Whilst this list has some useful points for people not used to wearing suits, the Fedora Lounge has taught me that rules are for fools and most advice can be ignored as long as what you're wearing looks good. Sadly, most modern fashion tends not to look good.

 

[DJH]

My closet lives by one rule: wear what looks and feels good.

Indeed!

 

[Yeps]

TROUSERS​

-AVOID pleats in trousers
-If you must, go for a single “reverse” pleat where the pleat is folded inwards
-Make sure thighs don’t appear too wide w/ trousers (Caused by pleats)

Pleated pants look much better on everyone who is not rail thin (which I am, but that is beside the point). They are, however, meant to be worn at the waist, and not the hips, which are wider than the waist. Hence the ballooning when they are worn incorrectly. Often, I find the advice that GQ, Esquire and the like give to be fun, and generally alright for the aesthetic they aspire to, but this just annoys me.

SOCKS​

-AVOID loud patterns, logos, and bright red

What? No. Bright socks are a great way to brighten up a neutral outfit in a subtle way. Agreed about logos though.

SHIRTS​

-AVOID colored dress shirts that have contrasting white collars and cuffs.

Why? Contrasting cuffs and collars are a really sharp look.

 

[brspiritus]

I have 2 dress shirts that have contrast collar and cuffs, both are french cuff. Back in the day when cuffs/collars were detachable they would be white while the shirt was a different color so I disagree on this one, methinks the author might have had the 80's in mind when he wrote this since contrast collars were all the rage for awhile. Spread collars are a modern affectation and have been taken so far as to look comical. Why wear a tie when you have to tie a knot the size of a New York pizza slice to fill the gap? As for suit buttoning the "Trend" is to wear a 3 piece and button all the jacket buttons looking comical in the meantime. I'd stick with the sartorial way which is top button on a 2 button, middle button on a 3 button jacket and leave the jacket open when wearing a 3pc... I mean how else are you going to show off your debonair watch chain?

Finally, tie knots. I understand with spread collars the revival of the Half Windsor which is great with modern ties but vintage ties just weren't meant to be tied in anything but a four in hand. IMHO, solid color ties suck and with the tie you have a chance to dress up an otherwise drab ensemble so go with a pattern at least.

 

[Tomasso]

IMHO, solid color ties suck

Yes, they have even driven some to drink......

 

[Bruce Wayne]

I once read a book full of fashion "rules." I decided then that there is no such thing as fashion or style rules. There are only guidelines that you may or may not bend, break or follow as one sees fit.

 

[dog20]

What book?

"Men's Style: The Thinking Man's Guide to Dress" by Russell Smith.

 

[Espee]

So that one time I found I hadn't buttoned the lowest button of my waistcoat, I needn't have been embarrassed?

 

[Espee]

I'm reading this while wearing a shirt with contrast-color collar--
but a solid tie
mildly-patterned socks
no pleats

-- I guess I don't need to go back home and change...

 

[brspiritus]

I don't have any solid color ties in my wardrobe... maybe it's time to expand the collection.

 

[Shangas]

I really don't know if I agree with that much of the OP's postings. Mostly because there's a HUGE difference between 'Fashion' and 'style'.

Fashion changes every three months. How on earth do rules apply to something that transient, I'll never understand.

 

[filfoster]

This is fun, and Scotrace's comment would be my opinion too, with the exception of myself. Disagree on pleats and the black suit is only for fun or funerals. See Ask Andy's Trad forum for a nice beat down on black suits.

 

[Rudie]

Lol, suit fabric should be super 100s or above. That's the stuff I avoid like the plague.

 

[Undertow]

Thank you for the work you put into the post, dog20.

Unfortunately, I can't say I agree with everything either. I echo what many of the others have already said. These rules seem fairly modern and, if anything, a little confused.

AVOID pleats in trousers Bad.
Buy plain cotton webbing w/ leather tabs for buttons (avoid flashy colors) Um, no. Silk is good, if not better, and "flashy colors" like gold look great.
AVOID loud patterns, logos, and bright red Huh?
Buy a ½ inch larger than your neck and wash shirt so it’ll fit. If you're a 16.5, buy a 16.5. Carefully wash shirts and line dry them.
Mother of pearl buttons This is nice, but entirely unnecessary.
The wider the distance between the tips of the collar, the fancier the shirt Huh?
Typically, bow ties are not considered sexy by the ladies. Huh?
Avoid winged collar/Keep tie, lapels, and trouser legs narrow. Yikes, no.

 

[scottyrocks]

This book was published in 2005, so the author could have very well been person who was around on FL near the beginnning. Lord knows we have enough differences of opinion, which, of course, is a good thing. Some of his advice is fairly basic and safe, and some of it is indeed 'fashion,' which is considerably more open to interpretation. As I agree with some parts of it and disagree with other parts, I will just take from it what I want, and leave the rest.