Some tips to help those who are clueless about men's fashion

[1961MJS]

Hi

I agree with some of the rules. I like the ideas on shoes, buy conservative first. That's a great rule. I like the guidance on pant length etc. I don't understand the socks rule of a shade lighter than your pants. Black socks, black pants. Khaki socks with Khaki pants. Brown socks with Olive pants since I can't find olive socks that last. I buy boxes of black socks, Khaki socks, and Brown socks, that way they match.

Just my $0.02 from a simply fashioned guy.

 

[dog20]

Need help with suits

I went to the thrift store today and I was only able to find the size on 15% of the suits that I looked at. Where is the label saying what size the suit is? I thought maybe the label with the size was cut out on the majority of the suits, but I didn't see any evidence of that.

 

[Undertow]

I went to the thrift store today and I was only able to find the size on 15% of the suits that I looked at. Where is the label saying what size the suit is? I thought maybe the label with the size was cut out on the majority of the suits, but I didn't see any evidence of that.

Many modern suits are equipped with a tag on the inside jacket pocket. However, older suits and suits from higher end stores often do not have a size tag. You will need to have a tailor take your measurements, and then bring a measuring tape with you to the thrift shop.

Don't be too worried if you look like a quack while you're holding a tape to the jacket and people are staring at you. Better to measure twice and purchase once, I always say!

 

[Magister]

I have to disagree about women not liking bow ties. I work in an environment utterly dominated by women and adolescent girls (relentless fashionistas), and I wear bow ties most days. The comments I hear are overwhelmingly and unironically positive.

 

[Mario]

Why oh why do so many people feel obliged to pile you in with rules, rules and even more rules?

 

[scottyrocks]

Hi

I agree with some of the rules. I like the ideas on shoes, buy conservative first. That's a great rule. I like the guidance on pant length etc. I don't understand the socks rule of a shade lighter than your pants. Black socks, black pants. Khaki socks with Khaki pants. Brown socks with Olive pants since I can't find olive socks that last. I buy boxes of black socks, Khaki socks, and Brown socks, that way they match.

Just my $0.02 from a simply fashioned guy.

I did pay more attention to the shoe section. I can't wear shoes with closed laces. They hurt my feet because the shoe doesn't have room to spread. Also, I love wing tips and would wear them with any suit. I'd love a copy of the Nucky Thompson shoes shown in the opening of Boardwalk Empire. With black tie, though, solid black shoes are the only way to go, and simpler probably is better.

 

[scottyrocks]

Why oh why do so many people feel obliged to pile you in with rules, rules and even more rules?

I prefer to look at them as 'guidelines.' It's less severe.

 

[The Good]

Based on what I read, I agree with most of this. Some things that stuck out for me:

Pleats: I'm not a fan of them, and I currently don't wear pants (chinos or dress) that have them. For me, they would tend to bulge out my hip. I'm speaking of modern pants that I would wear up to my belly, not vintage higher waisted pants. They can look OK on other people though, and look good with high waist trousers.

Pink: I'd personally wear a pink tie, but it's unlikely that I would be wearing a pink shirt.

Ties: Taking some influence from James Bond, I almost always wear ties with a basic four-in-hand knot, but one of my ties looks good with a Pratt knot. I think a Windsor would be too large looking on me. I wear ties that are both solid and patterned, I'm not opposed to either, but I've gradually come to prefer the minimalism in solid colors for now.

Contrast-collar shirts: I own one of these (blue shirt with white contrast cuffs and collar) and wear it occasionally. It can look a bit flashy, but I like it. I find that I can't bring myself to wear it without a tie though.

 

[Noirblack]

Ok, just for fun here is a picture of the author from his own website.

http://www.russellsmith.ca/

Looks like he didn't follow his own rule about creating a dimple in his neck tie. And it still looks ok to me!

 

[samtemporary]

The part on shoes was the most...helpful, I guess.

 

[Travis Lee Johnston]

Who?

 

[MikeBravo]

I may have posted this before, however there is a good way of checking the waist size at least

Do up the trousers and wrap the waist (where the belt loops go) around your neck. If it fits around your neck, it will fit around your waist

You will have to try them on for size, but if the waist size is too small or too loose you needn't bother taking them to the fitting room


** By waist I mean the place where the belt loop goes

 

[JoeSpy]

Hi all! This my second post in the FL. Much of what I read in the original post seems to make sense, but as has been mentioned, much of it is a matter of taste...or perhaps a matter of what works for the individual.

Many years ago, I inherited a couple of very nice suits, shoes, and a boatload of cufflinks...some of them being heirloom, or at least, nearly unique. So, I got me some french cuff shirts to go with them.

I live and work in Southern California (not known for dressy workplaces), but I wore the french cuffs. I also had a number of suspenders, and I wore them as well. Flashy ties, subdued suspenders, and vice versa. To make my point without further delay, because I was so WELL dressed, I was offered a promotion...just because I paid attention to what I looked like.

Now if we could only convince the young "droopy pants" generation of that...

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Well of course most of us don't need the "rules". But dog20 did write them

to help those who are clueless about men's fashion

I think it is good to know some so called rules and then decide if they really make sense. Also it is kinda interesting to see which rules are for modern fashion only and what changed since the "golden era". Be honest: some things are more interesting for us just BECAUSE they are against modern fashion: wide trousers, big lapels, spearpoint collars...the more it moves away from the modern business OTR suit they more sought after they are. To understand this you also need to know something about modern fashion too.

 

[nihil]

I'm certainly glad that I decided not to purchase his book after all. Now I just hope that ‘Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion’ by Bernhard Roetzel is better, and not just filled with the same contemporary advice.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Now I just hope that ‘Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion’ by Bernhard Roetzel is better, and not just filled with the same contemporary advice.

I got this book for cheap on a sale. Of course it is kinda contemporary too. It is not a vintage style guide. It is nice for a start but I wouldn't expect too much.

 

[Tommy]

I may have posted this before, however there is a good way of checking the waist size at least

Do up the trousers and wrap the waist (where the belt loops go) around your neck. If it fits around your neck, it will fit around your waist

You will have to try them on for size, but if the waist size is too small or too loose you needn't bother taking them to the fitting room


** By waist I mean the place where the belt loop goes

The easiest way of determining the true waist size of a trouser is to button/fasten the trouser, flatten the waistband onto itself, measuring the distance end to end, and multiply by two.

 

[Tommy]

I think reverse pleat trousers are harder to find. Golden Era photos show pleats in both directions. I think trouser style is entirely individual preference.

I used to wear a lot of pleated trousers, didn't like how they looked, went to the flat front look, wasn't totally satisfied with that either, and as of late, determined the problem to be primarily one of the waist-rise. Many trousers nowadays are cut low, I happen to be long waisted, and low rise on me doesn't work well no matter the trouser style. So I've gravitated to higher rise pleats. It's been a journey.

 

[Historyteach24]

I disagree with so many of these rules it is hard to list but the one that really got me going is the section about bowties. I have had pretty much every woman I work with tell me how great bowties look and they think it is very classy. And the section about ties in general is laughable. If you are going to be out there enough to wear a pink dress shirt (which I do often) you kill it by wearing a solid silver tie. It takes all the pazazz out of the outfit.

 

[Historyteach24]

Also I disagree with the suspender rule that we keep them covered up. When I wear a suit to work I always wear suspenders and I gurantee you my suit jacket doesn't stay on the entire day. Ok my rage is finally subsiding.... lol