Single ******ed peak lapel

[Marc Chevalier]

The problem is if someone bought it, you couldn't be able to alter it to become single ******ed or double ******ed...you'd always have that 1.5 ******ed jacket. The balance would just get thrown off, I think, if you tried to change it.

Actually, the balance would get restored to what it originally was meant to be. This is, in fact, a high-gorge double-******ed jacket. It looks VERY much like a GERMAN suit jacket. German d/b jackets from the 1930s had very high gorges, and highly placed ****** pockets. Wild Root, Baron Kurtz and Herringbone Kid can attest to this.

 

[Bargepole]

. . . Ralph Lauren Blue Label Polo suits. The armholes on those jackets are higher cut like those in the 50's and 60's, then compare the fit of the Polo suit to that of a jacket you can find at JC Penny's and you will see a marked difference.

Ralph Lauren's suits are, I suspect, a direct steal from... no, rip-off of... no, hommage to my tailor, the great Douglas Hayward of London. Ralph goes in, gets a few suits made (Hayward's speciality is making up very lightweight cloth so that it hangs beautifully like an 18oz worsted), takes 'em home, dismantles them and, next season in the Ralph Lauren range... guess what? Been doing it for years.

I asked Hayward why he didn't charge him rights. "Can't copyright a ****** suit," he said, "and anyway I can't be bothered with the hassle." Same reason he didn't answer the Bond wardrobe people. "All the crew would want one, too. Can't be bothered with that. Let Brioni do it."

A good man, Doug. Incidentally, I went in there once (his shop in Mount Street is like a club; on that occasion Roger Moore was there when I arrived, nattering about cashmere, and while I was there Michael Caine and Lord Rothschild came in for a cup of tea and a chat, all of which cut ME down to size okay) and there were a couple of really, really tiny suits hanging in the workroom.

"Oh," I said, "That's quite sweet; someone getting his little son his first bespoke?"

"No," said Hayward, "They're Ralph's."

 

[herringbonekid]

i just bought this late 20s/early 30s SB jacket...

...not a peaked lapel, but still interesting. it's made of ultra lightweight cord-cotton and has no lining whatsoever.

 

[Tomasso]

Here's a 3B SB PL made by Oxxford(MTM) in 1997.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Alan Flusser was making S/B suits with a nearly identical peak lapel, back in the late '80s.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Hey HBK! Who's that made by?

Sweet jacket. The back treatment is almost identical to a Haspel DB i just picked up.

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

BK, it doesn't have a maker's label but i know it's American.

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

I was watching Late Show with David Letterman last night, and Dave had a peak lapel DB, and his guest had a peak lapel SB. I know Dave is anything but a clothes horse and just wears what his wardrobe people hand him, but I guess the peak lapel is coming back!

 

[silhouette53]

I was watching Late Show with David Letterman last night, and Dave had a peak lapel DB, and his guest had a peak lapel SB. I know Dave is anything but a clothes horse and just wears what his wardrobe people hand him, but I guess the peak lapel is coming back!

And so it should !! I've always thought that the peaked lapel looks way better than ordinary (notched?) lapels, especially on a suit. A S/B tweed 'sports' jacket is a pretty ordinary looking garment generally, but if it has a good tailored fit and has peaked lapels then it becomes something else entirely - just my opinion. I'd love to get hold of such a jacket in Donegal tweed, the kind with those little coloured flecks in if you know what I mean (not the best description I'll admit !lol )

 

[Tomasso]

I was watching Late Show with David Letterman last night, and Dave had a peak lapel DB, and his guest had a peak lapel SB. I know Dave is anything but a clothes horse and just wears what his wardrobe people hand him, but I guess the peak lapel is coming back!

Letterman has been wearing bespoke suits for nearly a decade. He was fitted for his first suit, on air, by a top NYC tailor(Nino Corvato?). He wears DB's exclusively and of course a DB must have PL.

 

[Nathan Flowers]

I've seen Letterman wearing a pinstriped SB with peaked lapels every couple of weeks.

 

[Tomasso]

I've seen Letterman wearing a pinstriped SB with peaked lapels every couple of weeks.

I stand corrected.

 

[J. M. Stovall]

At least he stopped wearing sneakers with his suits, remember that!?!

 

[Tomasso]

At least he stopped wearing sneakers with his suits, remember that!?!

Yes, I remember and it was truly tragic. He now wears loafers, just a venial sin.

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

I don't get to watch as often as I used to... has he quit wearing mismatched suit jackets and trousers? He was doing that with depressing frequency a few years ago.

 

[jake_fink]

He can't seem to figure out how to button his jacket either.

 

[Tomasso]

He can't seem to figure out how to button his jacket either.

Absolutely, he buttons the inside button but then fidgets(buttoning/ unbuttoning) with the outside button. Very disconcerting, to me.

 

[MudInYerEye]

Yowsa yowsa yowsa.
Just saw X-Men 3, which was horrible, and noticed Professor Xavier was wearing a three piece single ******ed peak lapeled suit for a good portion of his scenes, which was eventually dismantled thread-by-thread by the Dark Phoenix. Fascinating stuff.

 

[Matt Jones]

i just bought this late 20s/early 30s SB jacket...

...not a peaked lapel, but still interesting. it's made of ultra lightweight cord-cotton and has no lining whatsoever.

GREAT jacket!! Hope it didn't break the bank. Wouldn't mind finding something like that for myself.

Someone needs to show these pics to J Peterman.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Someone needs to show these pics to J Peterman.

Someone has. I've got a white linen, double-******ed, belt-back suit that was made as a sample for J. Peterman in the late '90s, just before the company declared bankruptcy.

.