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Show us your suits

havershaw

Practically Family
Messages
716
Location
mesa, az
OK, who won it?
Baron, your single-breasted suits are killing me. Beautiful stuff.
MK can recall when I told him that I just wasn't a dressing-up sort of guy, or something to tthat effect. He was asking why I didn't have a ny vintage suits (at that time I wore only vintage casual) and I said I just wasn't that formal. Now I wear suits all the time. But hey, I'm older.
Yeah, I try to not even go near the suit closet in the summer. Too painful, since I can't wear any of them. If I start poking around in there, I'll just say "weather be damned" and wear one anyway, then swelter all day.
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
And here is the problem I have with the Duke of Windsor's suits. He was a small, compact man, with relatively narrow shoulders and a somewhat flat chest. To my eye, his suits fit him so closely, they almost seem painted on. They make him look miniature. (See photo below.)

What the Duke of Windsor's suits needed, in my opinion, was broader shoulders with a bit more padding to them. His jackets should have been just a little bit longer, too.


Prince1.jpg



.
 

Shaul-Ike Cohen

One Too Many
Messages
1,176
Location
.
Sorry, I'm late to class. It's a time zone thing. Alright, what did I want to say?

Ah, yes: All nice suits, but the SB suits, in particular the brown herringbone, are great. Somehow I don't even mind the spare tyre pocket on the jacket's right side - it just belongs there.

An actual picture of the FL's baron wouldn't hurt, of course, but I find the present avatar fitting, maybe even more so if you don't associate the person of The Third Man too much with it. Think away the cynicism, and you're left with rationalism and a lack of illusions. Apart from that, it's a bloody good picture of a great actor.

What makes a Palm Beach or Ice Cream suit, apart from the colour?

Lastly, this picture of the Prince of Wales emphasises his similarity to V?°clav Havel.

Marc, I think in order to preclude this impression of looking - I quote - small, compact, narrow and flat, he did things like closing only the lowermost button of a six-button DB jacket. One of the things I can't relate to.
 
Thanks chaps, for the kind words. I like my suits. I've been quite picky in my acquisitions.

Ray, sorry, i had to get it. An NRA, crepe-effect 3 piece SB for $130 was too much to resist. I can't wait to see the crepe effect cloth. Hopefully i can take a pic which will show it well.

SJ, sorry to bring back the memories. I had to show that 'un. People have been asking to see the waistcoat for a while.

What makes a palm beach suit is this:

PalmBeach1.jpg


Palm Beach as a brand went on into the 70s, and is still going i think, and that's what ye'll see in thrift stores. BEWARE!!!!! Those are nasty, nasty suits. Palm Beach cloth was the most successful early summer cloth. A cunning mix of rayon, mohair and several other "secret ingredients". There are various different weaves. Goodall sold the brand name in the early 50s, and stopped making the fabric. After that point Palm Beach suits are garbag(at least that's how i remember the story - if someone can correct me where i'm wrong, do so. I'd like to know).

On the Prince: What Marc hates about his suits, i LOVE. I love the idea that he was small, knew it, and didn't try to make himself out to be what he wasn't. There's a lot of propaganda in the tailoring industry about "correcting" "flaws" in someone's physique. The fact is the man WAS tiny (i think about the same size as me). He didn't try to mask this. He had an athletic shape. He didn't need to create one.

bk

btw, i'd say the suit PoW is wearing above has shoulder padding. Any more would make him look unbalanced. One of my problems with american suits - even from this era - is that the shoulders are way too big.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
i'm in agreement regarding the duke. i think his suits fits him perfectly. i'm against broad shoulders on slim fellas.

Baron did you win that suit on ebay ? i don't remember seeing it.
was it listed in vintage ?
 

Wild Root

Gone Home
Messages
5,532
Location
Monrovia California.
It’s sad when some one has to use a gun to get his point a crossed... Point that thing some place else!

To each his own, I never understood why the Prince is such a big deal… there were way better looking men and better dressed men in the golden era in my opinion… oh, thin men need shoulder padding!!! Look at any photo of James Stewart, had some shoulder padding in his suits, the guy was a handsome gent and well dressed.

You all can be P.O.W. fans… I’ll be an American and dress like Stewart thank you. ;)

=WR=
 
Where the Prince was truly important was in his move away from the stuffed shirt formality of court attire to the more casual styles of the suit. This is incredibly important to the development of male attire in the C20th and should not be underrated.

I believe he only had 2 tailors, and that because of a dispute about suspenders vs. belt (he preferred a belt, his london tailor refused to make trousers to accomodate a belt).

bk
 

Wild Root

Gone Home
Messages
5,532
Location
Monrovia California.
I think we're comparing Apples and Oranges here. The Prince had a style foisted upon him in some regards seeing he preferred belts but, since the tailors preferred braces... so, he wore braces which is kind of nutty to make a suit to "Boycott" belts in a sense.

It is also important to remember that tailoring in the UK was different then American tailoring. Although, most tailors were immigrants and had a strong European design which we can see mostly in the 1920's and early 30's.

My self, I enjoy the classic "American" or "Hollywood" style and find it more flattering to a man's shape then the English design. Nothing against the English mind you, just a preference in taste. Now, other then the "American" or "Hollywood" styles... I'd have to admit to being a lover of German tailoring!!! I have one German Tailored suit... oh my, it is the berries!!! They had beautiful tailoring in the 30's and 40's. Nice wide legged trousers, beautiful details on the pants... nice hourglass cut coats with very well proportioned shoulder padding... now, that's a suit!

=WR=
 

Wild Root

Gone Home
Messages
5,532
Location
Monrovia California.
Baron Kurtz said:
Naaah, he wore belts. He had two tailors. One in London (Sholte?) made the jacket/waistcoat, the other made the trousers. From the same bolt of fabric. I believe the guy who made the trousers was a New York tailor.

unimportant.

bk

Interesting BK but, as you say, unimportant.

However, it is interesting to know!

=WR=
 

BellyTank

I'll Lock Up
Prince of Trousers

That's true and interesting- the cloth was shipped to NY for the trousers- crazy huh(?)

I like American, British and European style- but at present, my preference is for the German/Northern European vintage menswear.
It's easy to see where the American styles came from.

The Prince was a stylish man- and it's quite apparent that he had more than an interest in the design of many of his outfits-
sporting, adventuring and formal attire- chose and wore what he liked and damn tradition.

That's what makes a style icon.

Bless him.

B
T
 

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