Show off the sports coats.

[Giftmacher]

Probably from 50's

 

[splintercellsz]

1890s Suit Coat.

This one fits me perfectly, but I would never wear it... just not my style, but due to it's age, and overall condition for it's age, I couldn't pass it up.

The front is closed by a piece of twine(?) being put over both buttons (it is connected to one).

Sleeve Buttons

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Looks like maybe a livery or uniform piece? Maybe a waiter's jacket?

1883-'87 seems very tight dating. I thought they used that label for a very long time post-'83.

 

[Dinerman]

The Journeyman Tailor's Union of America didn't issue a union label until 1891. They had three different variants from the 1890s-1920s. That is the earliest one, placing it somewhere in the 1890s.

As it came from a costume house, I wonder if the odd cut is a later modification. My guess would be a cutaway coat that had the back cut down at a later point.

 

[splintercellsz]

I see, I mis-gained my info off an eBay ad with a vest having the same label.

"THERE IS NO MENTION OF THE AFL ON THE LABEL, WHICH THEY JOINED IN 1887". I suppose stupid is as stupid does, eh? Thanks for the correction, fellas.

I may be selling this one soon, as it is neat, but takes up space. I would keep it if it had more of a sport coat look to it, but the different cut is not my cup-o-tea.

 

[Dinerman]

Here's a bit more on their history, formation, and demise.
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?72056-The-Fedora-Lounge-Guide-to-Union-Labels

The Journeymen Tailor's Union of America
1865-1876, 1883-1920s

The Journeymen Tailor's Union of America originally organized in 1865, but dissolved in 1876 after massive embezzlement of funds by one of its officers. It re-organized in 1883, and had jurisdiction over unionized custom tailors. Its refusal to accept "less skilled" otr and mtm tailors led to the formation of the UGWA. They first issued a union label in 1891. I can not find reference to the union past c.1929. Modern history books point to 1914 as the demise of the union, but period documents and garments show it was around until at least the 1920s.

Custom Tailor's Union Label.

Custom Tailor's Union Label variant.

1920s variant

 

[splintercellsz]

That thread completely slipped my mind, even after I looked at it a few times. Thanks again!

 

[GoldenEraFan]

Seller had this listed as a 1970's blazer, but I knew it was a lot older! The union tag is really washed out so I can't tell if it's a 1936 or 1939 label. I Surmise from the cut that's most likely pre-war. Any experts want to chime in?

 

[DamianM]

well without seeing the 36 or 39 on it you just have to assume its 36'-44'
Its a great separate DB.

 

[Fastuni]

It's definitely the 1939-1949 label. Note the "80" in the bottom right corner.
Also the lower button stance would be rather indicative of a mid- to late-40's date.

 

[Qirrel]

As it came from a costume house, I wonder if the odd cut is a later modification. My guess would be a cutaway coat that had the back cut down at a later point.

It is a dinner jacket. The cut (low buttoning point and very round fronts) is typical of early dinner jackets. You can see the ribbed silk facings in one of the photos.

 

[GoldenEraFan]

It's definitely the 1939-1949 label. Note the "80" in the bottom right corner.
Also the lower button stance would be rather indicative of a mid- to late-40's date.

I don't discredit this info at all, but I have a '39 union tag DB jacket that has a "2" like the '36 tags, and I have a 1926 dated DB with the same exact button stance.

 

[Guttersnipe]

I don't discredit this info at all, but I have a '39 union tag DB jacket that has a "2" like the '36 tags, and I have a 1926 dated DB with the same exact button stance.

Fastuni was referring to the "80" in the bottom right, below the second "a" in "America". Generally this is the easiest way to differentiate between between 1936 and 1939 union tags.

 

[GoldenEraFan]

Fastuni was referring to the "80" in the bottom right, below the second "a" in "America". Generally this is the easiest way to differentiate between between 1936 and 1939 union tags.

Yes, but I was explaining I have 1939 Union Tag jacket with a "2" where the 80 would be.

 

[Fastuni]

Yes, but I was explaining I have 1939 Union Tag jacket with a "2" where the 80 would be.

Interesting! But I'd rule out a "80" on a pre-1939 suit/label.

Generally one occasionally can find older type labels used a few years later (I have recently seen a 1952 - likely the sale year - dated suit with pre-1949 label).These labels just give an earliest possible date.

I have a 1926 dated DB with the same exact button stance.

Sure, low button placement existed before.
But combined with the 1939-49 label, overall cut and broad shoulders we have to look at where in the 1939-49 timeframe we can place this specimen. Given these factors and the overall availability, the odds are on second half of 40's.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

yes, I also have a '39 label with a "2". On the left, it says "Union Made Vest"

 

[Fastuni]

Possibly a kind of "transitional" label, before the "80" was introduced?

 

[GoldenEraFan]

Two from the '50s.

 

[GoldenEraFan]

'60s does '20s jacket. I'm baffled by the label as it features a WPL number which I've read was used between 1941-1959 before they switched to RN numbers but beside knowing the popularity of this cut and belt back style, this is indeed a post 1967 jacket as per the 1968 Wool label. Were WPL labels just mish-moshed through the years?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

just an older label used in a newer jacket. Standard poor stock control.