Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[kamikat]

Very nice. Way better than my size ups. :eusa_clap
Is this for a coat? If thats the case I think its a bit too fitted. If that were for a blouse beneath the suit jacket, Id say cool, but for the jacket alone (not to mention lining and the like) Id say decrease your darts some and soften the side seams. For a coat, I think the bust/underarm area will work itself out fine once the sleeves are on. Are you going to do a mock up of at least one sleeve as well?

Id also add about 1/2" to 1" to the front of the pattern. It looks like it may be higher in the front than the back.

LD

That is the sleeve, just different fabric, since I was making my toile from scraps. I'm doing the short sleeved version. You're right about the front length. The front dart is cut out and the area closer to CF was MUCH shorter that the area closer to the side seam (make sense?). This is an unlined top and the pattern calls it a blouse, rather than a jacket. In fact, one view is finished with bias edging, rather than facings or linings.

 

[Mrs. Merl]

I loved the idea of Sewing With A Plan - I went and pulled my meager collection of patterns and have decided on a plan. I even have a great deal of the fabric already! Now if I can just scrape together the funds for notions and such - then hopefully it will turn out the way I imagine! No promises on getting anything done in a hurry - I am so broke it is impossible to start right now - but soon hopefully!

 

[kamikat]

`Ladies, I've just posted a blog post with more planning on my SWAP. Can you please visit it, and tell me what you think. I'm looking for opinions, please!
http://newvintage.wordpress.com/2009/02/06/swap-2009-update/

 

[Mrs. Merl]

I am going to try that same pant pattern (I hope it falls the way I want it to.) I am doing most of my base pieces in gray suit wool (I had it one hand!) I don't like knits very much - I haven't worked with them a lot either though. I think that the color pallet would be very nice. I personally would only use the print you have posted if I were going sixties (that is what immediately pops to mind at least!) Are you going to make a jacket at all? I just cut my first skirt today!

 

[kamikat]

What do you think of these two prints? The flowered one also comes on a chocolate brown background that is nice.

This one has a similar color scheme as my first sample but more of a classic look

 

[Lady Day]

I love this one, has a very 30s feel to me

LD

 

[Mrs. Merl]

I like the two florals. I really like the poppies!

 

[JupitersDarling]

Kamikat, I love the first two! I'm interested to see how you do your SWAP! I've thought about doing a SWAP and even gotten plans and fabrics together before but got distracted and lost steam along the way. (Maybe when I ace my interview next week (hopefully) then I'll have better incentive to sew up nice coordinating separates!)

 

[Medvssa]

I love the poppies' fabric!!

 

[Gigi]

I'm looking for a basic shirtwaist day dress pattern. I know there are tons out there, but when I search for them I just get soooo many results, and I have to look through so many that just aren't what I'm looking for. I figure there have to be many people here who have made them, so I'm hoping someone can recommend a pattern or two. I just want to make something in this super simple style (pleating optional, I can always add it or take it away if I wish):

 

[Sunny]

Pattern recommendations are honestly a waste of time unless you're looking for a modern commercial one. There are so many sources out there that it'd be time-consuming just to find recommendations, and then you'd spend several times as much effort trying to find and buy the same pattern. Searching through them yourself is truly easier. And the bigger benefit is that you're training your eye to recognize not only styles but years. I kept an eye on the vintage patterns on ebay for months, just kind of looking for the styles I liked. Gradually I started fitting things together in a timeline ("This pattern has 30s-style sleeves but a shorter skirt, so it's probably late 30s.") just in my head. Then suddenly I discovered that my guesses weren't just ballpark figures anymore - they were right. I'd trained my eye to recognize dress styles as well as hair, hat, and shoe styles from the envelopes, and now at a glance I can scroll down a page for the sort of things I like.

I can tell you right now that that particular shirtdress is a late 50s into 60s style. The top of a shirtdress stayed pretty consistent (It's a shirt, after all!), just changing subtly in shoulder line and cut and sleeve length and fullness. But the skirts date them pretty well. Here's a thumbnail sketch that's not all-inclusive, but it'll help. Early 40s shirtdresses had just-below-knee skirts that were gored into neat A-line shapes or sometimes with a few pleats sewn down at the waist and released at the hip. Later 40s had skirts that were definitely longer (mid-calf or shin), usually fuller, still mostly gored, occasionally with gathers below the waist, but usually smooth-waisted. Early 50s had medium-full skirts, still usually gored, and still fairly long. Into the late 50s skirts shortened back to the knee and skirts began to get "puffy," either gathered or pleated all around. The shortest skirts were in the mid 60s, right at the knee or just above.

I'm looking for a basic shirtwaist day dress pattern. I know there are tons out there, but when I search for them I just get soooo many results, and I have to look through so many that just aren't what I'm looking for. I figure there have to be many people here who have made them, so I'm hoping someone can recommend a pattern or two. I just want to make something in this super simple style (pleating optional, I can always add it or take it away if I wish):

 

[Joie DeVive]

I'm looking for a basic shirtwaist day dress pattern. I know there are tons out there, but when I search for them I just get soooo many results, and I have to look through so many that just aren't what I'm looking for. I figure there have to be many people here who have made them, so I'm hoping someone can recommend a pattern or two. I just want to make something in this super simple style (pleating optional, I can always add it or take it away if I wish):

Just so you know, while shirtwaists are very basic style wise, they are not the most simple thing to make sewing wise. I don't know your sewing ability. If this is your first project, I would urge you to reconsider.

Sunny is right, it is tricky to find specific vintage pattern. The "Most Wanted Pattern" thread is proof of this. I find that the easiest way to find a specific style is to use ebay and search by my preferred bust size. It usually cuts the field significantly and then I can browse the patterns for the style I want. I can give you a few pattern numbers of vintage ones I know of. If you want to look for those, I would just search via the number.

Here are a few shirtwaist patterns: (sorry no pics)
DuBarry 5766 (1940s)
Hollywood 736 (1940s)
McCall's 3546 (mid-late 1950s)

 

[Cricket]

Could you ladies help me out please?
I am just starting to develop an interest in making my own clothes, sewing, the whole nine yards. Keep in mind that I am a beginner. I can't even sew a button back on. That is how new I am to this.
I am saving my money now to buy a sewing machine. The older one that has been passed down in my family has a problem of messing the thread up, and I have been told it is too much a headache to deal with, especially for someone new.
But my question is...what patterns should a beginner start with until they get the hang of things? I have seen several patterns on the Lounge that I would kill for, but I know that I need to start off small.
Any suggestions?
Thanks again ladies.

 

[JupitersDarling]

Could you ladies help me out please?
I am just starting to develop an interest in making my own clothes, sewing, the whole nine yards. Keep in mind that I am a beginner. I can't even sew a button back on. That is how new I am to this.
I am saving my money now to buy a sewing machine. The older one that has been passed down in my family has a problem of messing the thread up, and I have been told it is too much a headache to deal with, especially for someone new.
But my question is...what patterns should a beginner start with until they get the hang of things? I have seen several patterns on the Lounge that I would kill for, but I know that I need to start off small.
Any suggestions?
Thanks again ladies.

I would suggest starting off with something with straight lines. A simple patch pillow or tote bag is great for beginners to get used to machine functions. You can find lots more free patterns for simple projects online if none of my examples appeal. Sewmamasew has lots of cute sewing tutorials- such as this hobo lunchbag, which could also be a good project for you.

Once you figure out your machine, perhaps try an apron for hemming, gathering, and finishing- or a simple skirt pattern if you feel ambitious about sewing in closures (snaps, buttons, zippers).

 

[Mrs. Merl]

Aww, such memories! The first project I did when I was a kid was a tote bag! I still have the pattern my mom made me (I just got it out the other day!!) And in home-ec we made pillow cases - but I didn't like the plain ol' rectangle so I brought in my own pattern! Good Luck when you start Cricket!

 

[Cricket]

Thanks for the suggestions. I knew that I would have to start out simple. But I am so anxious to start my first dress, skirt or blouse. But I realize I have to start small, and I am so excited. The hard work will pay off when I can officially paste a photo on the Lounge of my first project.
Jupitersdarling, those sites are very detailed and informative. (i love details).
As soon as I get enough money to get my machine and start working, I will post some pics.
Mrs. Merl, a pillowcase will probably be one of my many "first projects."

 

[kamikat]

I've been blogging my SWAP plans and have updated it. I ordered my print fabric this morning!
http://newvintage.wordpress.com/2009/02/11/swap-2009-progress-report/

 

[kamikat]

Thanks for the suggestions. I knew that I would have to start out simple. But I am so anxious to start my first dress, skirt or blouse. But I realize I have to start small, and I am so excited. The hard work will pay off when I can officially paste a photo on the Lounge of my first project.
Jupitersdarling, those sites are very detailed and informative. (i love details).
As soon as I get enough money to get my machine and start working, I will post some pics.
Mrs. Merl, a pillowcase will probably be one of my many "first projects."

Is that your baby in your avatar? Baby clothes are a great way to learn how to sew. Some people have problems with the smaller pieces, but I have found that children's clothes are good to experiment with because they require smaller amounts of fabric. This means less money wasted in the event that something goes wrong. Also, kids usually don't care if the prints don't line up or the zipper isn't exactly perfect or the buttonholes are wonky.

 

[keira]

After some help resizing

Hi folks

I've recently purchased some patterns from Eva Dress. I've never made my own clothes before and am struggling before I even begin! I really want to make these trousers (http://www.evadress.com/9016.html) but they are several sizes too big (waist 32", hip 41" and I'm nearer 27" waist, 34" hip). Can anybody give me any advice on how to go about making them smaller?

Thanks in advance
K

 

[kamikat]

Hi folks

I've recently purchased some patterns from Eva Dress. I've never made my own clothes before and am struggling before I even begin! I really want to make these trousers (http://www.evadress.com/9016.html) but they are several sizes too big (waist 32", hip 41" and I'm nearer 27" waist, 34" hip). Can anybody give me any advice on how to go about making them smaller?

Thanks in advance
K

Have you sewn garments at all before? If not, those trousers may not be the ideal garment for your first garment. Have you taken any classes? Are you friends with people who can help you? Before starting on your trousers, I highly recommend "Pants for Real People" by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto. This book will teach you everything you need to know about fitting trousers.